Art Nouveau Pocket Watch
Early 20th Century English Art Nouveau Inkwells
Silver, Sterling Silver
Vintage 1910s German Art Nouveau Collectible Jewelry
Ormolu, Metal
20th Century Swiss Art Nouveau Pocket Watches
Yellow Gold
Antique Early 1900s American Art Nouveau Pocket Watches
Antique 19th Century Art Nouveau Pocket Watches
Diamond, Gold
Early 20th Century Swiss Art Nouveau Pocket Watches
Diamond, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Early 20th Century Swiss Art Nouveau Pocket Watches
Antique Early 1900s American Art Nouveau Pocket Watches
Yellow Gold
Antique 1890s North American Art Nouveau Pocket Watches
Vintage 1910s Swiss Art Nouveau Pocket Watches
Diamond, 18k Gold
Antique 19th Century French Art Nouveau Pocket Watches
Diamond, 18k Gold, Enamel
Antique Late 19th Century American Pocket Watches
Gold, 18k Gold, Rose Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold
Antique Early 1900s Swiss Art Nouveau Pocket Watches
Antique Early 1900s American Art Nouveau Pocket Watches
14k Gold
Vintage 1910s American Art Nouveau Pocket Watches
Silver
Early 20th Century Australian Art Nouveau Pocket Watches
14k Gold, Gold
Early 20th Century Swiss Art Nouveau Pocket Watches
Silver, Enamel
Antique 1890s Swiss Art Nouveau Pocket Watches
Antique 1890s Swiss Art Nouveau Pocket Watches
Antique Early 1900s American Art Nouveau Pocket Watches
Early 20th Century Swiss Art Nouveau Pocket Watches
Antique Early 1900s Swiss Art Nouveau Pocket Watches
Diamond, 14k Gold, Gold
Vintage 1910s Swiss Art Nouveau Pocket Watches
18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Vintage 1920s French Art Nouveau Pocket Watches
Early 20th Century American Art Nouveau Pocket Watches
Gold, 18k Gold, Gold-filled, Yellow Gold, Enamel
Antique Early 1900s American Art Nouveau Wrist Watches
18k Gold
Vintage 1910s Swiss Art Nouveau Wrist Watches
18k Gold
Vintage 1920s American Art Deco Wrist Watches
Vintage 1920s American Art Deco Wrist Watches
Early 20th Century French Art Nouveau Carriage Clocks and Travel Clocks
Brass
Antique Early 1900s German Art Nouveau Collectible Jewelry
Ormolu, Metal
Vintage 1920s American Art Deco Wrist Watches
Antique Late 19th Century French Victorian Pendant Necklaces
Carnelian, Gold Plate, Base Metal
Vintage 1910s French Art Nouveau Table Clocks and Desk Clocks
Bronze
Early 20th Century Italian Art Nouveau Animal Sculptures
Wrought Iron
Antique 1880s Victorian Collectible Jewelry
Gold
Antique 1890s American Art Nouveau Brooches
Pearl, White Diamond, Diamond, Enamel, Yellow Gold, 14k Gold, Gold
Antique Early 1900s North American Art Nouveau Brooches
Peridot, Natural Pearl, Pearl, Enamel, Yellow Gold, 14k Gold, Gold
Vintage 1920s American Art Deco Desk Accessories
Diamond, White Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Platinum, Enamel
Early 20th Century Swiss Art Nouveau Pendant Necklaces
Pearl, Silver, Enamel
Vintage 1920s Austrian Art Nouveau Animal Sculptures
Iron, Wrought Iron
Early 20th Century French Vitrines
Brass
Antique 19th Century French Art Nouveau Pocket Watches
Diamond, 18k Gold
Antique 1890s Unknown Art Nouveau Pocket Watches
Diamond, 18k Gold
Antique Early 1900s Art Nouveau Pocket Watches
Diamond, 18k Gold
Early 20th Century Unknown Art Nouveau Pocket Watches
18k Gold
Antique 19th Century Art Nouveau Pocket Watches
Sterling Silver
Antique 1890s American Art Nouveau Pocket Watches
18k Gold
Antique Early 1900s American Art Nouveau Pocket Watches
Diamond, Ruby, Gold, Enamel
Antique Late 19th Century German Art Nouveau Pocket Watches
Rose Gold, 18k Gold
Swiss Pocket Watches
Antique Mid-19th Century Swiss Art Nouveau Desk Accessories
Ruby, Brass, Yellow Gold
Antique 19th Century British Victorian Pocket Watches
Gold, Rose Gold, Yellow Gold, 18k Gold
Antique 19th Century British Victorian Pocket Watches
Onyx, Gold, 15k Gold, Rose Gold, Yellow Gold
Antique Early 1900s Art Nouveau Pocket Watches
Gold
20th Century Pocket Watches
18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Vintage 1910s Swiss Art Nouveau Pocket Watches
Silver
Antique Early 1900s Swiss Art Nouveau Pocket Watches
Diamond, White Diamond, Gold, Yellow Gold, 14k Gold
Antique 1880s Victorian Pocket Watches
Diamond, 14k Gold
Antique 19th Century French Art Nouveau Pocket Watches
White Diamond, 18k Gold
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A Close Look at art-nouveau Jewelry
Art Nouveau — generally considered to have begun in the late 1800s and ended with the start of World War I — was a movement in the decorative arts that drew inspiration from natural forms, such as trees, flowers and, of course, the human figure. The three main themes present in Art Nouveau jewelry and watches were flora, fauna and women.
Art Nouveau, which reached its pinnacle in the year 1900, spawned from artists who rejected the historicism of their predecessors to create an entirely new visual vocabulary. As compared to Art Deco jewelry’s geometric patterns and sharp lines, the extravagant style of antique Art Nouveau jewelry is characterized by curvilinear forms and whiplash lines, vibrant materials and dramatic imagery.
The first art and design movement of the 20th century, Art Nouveau was also a reaction against the Industrial Revolution, and took its inspiration from the theories of the Symbolists, the art of the Pre-Raphaelites, the ideas of John Ruskin and his follower William Morris and, most importantly Japanese crafts. (The country was a fertile ground for inspiration after it was opened to the West in 1854.) The Art Nouveau style touched all manners of the arts, including the most exultant jewelry.
Nature was a favorite muse for artists going back to the 18th and 19th centuries, but in the hands of 20th-century artists, it was depicted in new ways. For example, a withering flower was considered just as beautiful as one in full bloom. Winged creatures, such as insects and birds, were also a popular subject. Dragonflies and butterflies were particular favorites because they morphed so dramatically in different life stages.
This was also a reference to women, whose role in society was evolving. It was not uncommon to see a piece of jewelry that would at once reference a woman as a winged creature (think René Lalique’s famous Dragonfly brooch, circa 1897–98, at the Gulbenkian Collection in Lisbon). However, just as women’s roles were ambiguous, so was their image, as the femmes nouvelle were simultaneously eroticized and romanticized.
In addition to Lalique, vital figures in Art Nouveau jewelry included Louis Comfort Tiffany in the United States, Vladimir Soloviev, who designed jewelry for Peter Carl Fabergé in Russia, Fuset Grau of Spain, Karl Rothmuller of Germany and Philippe Wolfers of Belgium.
Art Nouveau jewelers used every “canvas” imaginable, looking beyond brooches and necklaces to belt buckles, fans, tiaras, dog collars (a type of choker necklace), pocket watches, corsages and hair combs. Multicolored gems and enamel could complete this vision better than diamonds. Jewelers also favored pearls, particularly baroque pearls, for their large size and irregular shape. However, opal was the most popular stone — its iridescence harmonized perfectly with the enamel, and it could be carved into any shape. Art Nouveau jewelry was primarily set in yellow gold.
Find a range of antique Art Nouveau jewelry today on 1stDibs.