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1930s Haskell Hess Fringe BlueGlass & BrassBar Pendants ChainLinkNecklace

About the Item

Featuring a relatively heavy fringe of dangling Russian-gilt brass bars and contrasting French-blue textural hand-pressed glass beads topped with filigree caps to resemble flower buds, this c.1930 brass round-link chain necklace was made in an Art Deco two-tone style by Miriam Haskell's first designer Frank Hess, who favored floral motifs. Assembled in The States, it dates to The Great Depression as early as 1929 when Haskell temporarily substituted her characteristic imported Parisian lampwork-glass and handcrafted faux-pearl beads since opening her first French-named ready-to-wear costume-jewelry boutique in 1926 for less expensive materials likely sourced from Czechoslovakia instead of France. The unsigned necklace fastens with a spring-ring clasp that Haskell sometimes used during this period, in addition to simple thumbless ones that are also found in pieces by some Czech makers. While no Haskell costume jewelry was marked prior to 1947, during his decades as head designer for Miriam Haskell, Hess continued to make variations of his earlier pieces, such as this bar-fringe style that we have found in later signed necklaces and bracelets that comparatively had baroque faux-pearls attached as end beads.
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