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Edwardian More Objets d'Art and Vertu

EDWARDIAN STYLE

Antique Edwardian jewelry is named for King Edward VII of Great Britain, who ruled from 1901 until 1910. Classic Edwardian necklaces, engagement rings, earrings and other jewelry are often overshadowed by the more popular style of the era, Art Nouveau, which is a shame. At its best, Edwardian jewelry was all about the exquisite diamond, platinum and pearl creations made by such famous names as Cartier and Boucheron.

Edward introduced incredibly formal Buckingham Palace court presentations, balls and soirées, resulting in a huge demand for diamond jewels starting with his coronation in 1902. Dozens of tiaras and formal jewels in an updated 18th-century style were purchased from French jewelers Boucheron and Chaumet and from Russia’s Fabergé. The court jewelers Asprey, Garrard, Carrington and the newly opened London branch of Cartier were all overwhelmed with orders for sumptuous diamond jewelry to be worn at the king’s elaborate coronation.

During the Edwardian era, pearls were more valuable than diamonds. The pear-shaped pearl La Peregrina, for example, belonged to some of the most fabulous and strongest women in history and bounced among royal courts in Spain, France and Russia for several centuries. So while today the scale and clarity of a diamond ring matters, back then the size and quantity of your pearls was more important a declaration of wealth. And just as Victorian notions of propriety and femininity began to change after Queen Victoria died in 1901, jewelry design also evolved but there was some overlap with late Victorian styles.

Women of the Edwardian period sported bejeweled headpieces like tiaras and bandeaus with feathered aigrettes. Another popular piece of jewelry that is said to have been directly inspired by Queen Alexandra were colliers de chien, or dog collars — today's choker necklaces — which consisted of either a ribbon decorated with a brooch, a gemstone or several strands of pearls strung closely together.

Two major jewelry houses, Cartier and Boucheron, were founded in the mid-1850s, and by the beginning of the 20th century, the wealthy considered them household names. The Cartier brand became even more desirable once the house became the official jewelry supplier to King Edward VII. Cartier took this title seriously and designed some of the most innovative jewelry of its day, since it was willing to experiment with new materials like platinum and because it was mindful of fashion trends. Filigree settings also became popular. This saw-piercing technique was decorative and at the same time created a sense of lightness.

Perhaps even more important than Cartier’s use of platinum was the founding of De Beers Consolidated Mines Limited in 1888. The discovery of new diamond mines made the stone more affordable and prompted the introduction of new gemstone cuts. It is not uncommon to see Edwardian jewels with baguette or briolette diamonds.

Find antique Edwardian rings, bracelets, watches and other jewelry on 1stDibs.

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Style: Edwardian
Important French Silver & Guilloche Enamel Inkwell by Edouard Henry Dreyfous
Located in Brisbane City, QLD
This inkwell is one of the finest examples we have had in our collection to date. Crafted by the firm 'Dreyfous' the inkwell is made from .800 purity silver, etched crystal and cranberry guilloche enamel. The square form crystal base which sits upon four scroll feet is etched with floral motifs and bordered by gilded .800 purity silver that features panels of rich cranberry guilloche enamel. The central bulbous inkwell features further guilloche enamel that is overlaid with silver garlands and a hinged lid with floral knop. To the inside of the inkwell sits what appears to be its original glass ink liner which is in lovely condition. To the inside rim of the well is engraved 'Dreyfous Paris Londres New York' which helps date the piece to between 1890 and 1920. Queen Alexandra and Queen Mary of England were both frequent customers of Edouard Henry Dreyfous...
Category

Early 20th Century French Edwardian More Objets d'Art and Vertu

Materials

Silver, Enamel

Antique Edwardian William B Kerr Sterling Silver Purse or Lady's Evening Bag
Located in Philadelphia, PA
A fine antique Edwardian purse or evening bag. In sterling silver. By William B. Kerr & Co. The purse has a small chain and opens with a button. The interior has two pockets on ei...
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Early 20th Century American Edwardian More Objets d'Art and Vertu

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Sterling Silver

Tiffany & Co 1905 Edwardian Essex Glass Scent Bottle 18kt Gold and Rock Quartz
Located in Miami, FL
Fox Essex glass scent bottle designed by Tiffany & Co. An exceptional very rare piece, created during the Edwardian period at the Tiffany Studios, back in he 1905. This fabulous scent bottle has been carved from translucent rock quartz and mount with an oversized Essex glass reverse carved piece depicting the enameled three dimensional head of a fox. Both parts are mounted with hinged round frames crafted in solid yellow gold of 18 karats with high polished finish. Fitted with a push opening button, an invisible hinges and an interior gold screw lid. The head of the fox is magnificent, very well carved with realistic details and exceptionally painted. Weight: 137.50 Grams, (88.14 Dwt). Measurements: 34 mm by 40 mm by 80 mm (1.34 x 1.57 x 3.15 Inches). Hallmarks: Stamped with the maker's mark, the mark for the assay of the gold and signed, "TIFFANY & CO.". The gold parts has been independently tested using state of the art technology (Niton XL2 Analyzer) and verified as over 18k gold .770/.999 assay. Essex Glass Essex crystal pieces are formed from a rock crystal cabochon (polished domes of rock crystal with a flat base), an image or motif is then reverse carved into the flat base, and then painted, to give them impression of a three dimensional object or image encapsulated in the cabochon when viewed from above. Production of a reverse crystal intaglio begins with the mining and cutting of fine rock crystal from Brazil or Madagascar. A well-formed cabochon is the key to a beautifully made reverse intaglio and the tedious process of hand polishing it to perfection had to be completed before the design work could begin. A watercolor rendering of the image was painted on the underside of the cabochon and an oil and diamond dust mixture was used along with up to 250 scribing tools to carve the design into the interior of the crystal “…the deeper the carving the more pronounced trompe l’oeil effect.” Once the carving was established the painting process began with extremely fine brushes and paint working in reverse to create incredibly detailed images. This process of carving into the back of the cabochon is sometimes referred to as reverse intaglio, not be to mistaken with intaglio, which is designed to be viewed from the same side on which it is carved, unlike Essex crystal. Particularly when the image is of something which is itself small in reality, such as an insect, they can be very convincing when created by skilled craftsman. Thomas Cook was believed to be responsible for introducing them to Britain from the continent in the 1860s, and there were initially sold by Hancock’s in London. During the same period the artist William Essex, was a great favourite of Queen Victoria, and known for his enamel painting and miniatures. It would seem that the public put two and two together and came up with five, in that they believed these exquisite miniature painted jewels could only have been created by such a celebrated talent as Essex, and the name stuck despite him having nothing to do with their creation. Interestingly, William Bishop...
Category

Early 1900s American Antique Edwardian More Objets d'Art and Vertu

Materials

Quartz, Rock Crystal, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel

French, Cigar Shaped Onyx Desk Seal with Diamond Collar & Morocco Leather Case
Located in Brisbane City, QLD
This exquisite desk object was crafted in France during the early 20th Century and would have been an impressive object to own. The desk seal is crafted from a cigar shaped piece of black onyx which features a diamond set collar to one end and a monogram intaglio 'seal' to the other, all circa 1915. The monogram is 'AMF' which has been beautifully engraved into the underside of the seal. The piece retains its original Morocco leather fitted box signed 'Appay', a French manufacturer, and embossed 'AMF' to the top of the lid. The firm Appay were retailing at 24 Rue De La Paix in Paris which is close-by the Place Vendome and also the Opera, however little information is known about the business. The hinge on the Morocco leather box...
Category

Early 20th Century French Edwardian More Objets d'Art and Vertu

Materials

Diamond, Onyx

Pair of Antique Whiting Sterling Silver Whist Game Counters or Markers
Located in Philadelphia, PA
A fine pair of Whist game counters or markers. Made by Whiting and retailed by Bailey, Banks, and Biddle. In sterling silver. Each with sealed wheel co...
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20th Century American Edwardian More Objets d'Art and Vertu

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Sterling Silver

Antique 19th Century Dominique Alonzo 1910-30 French Gilt Bronze Statue Stamped
Located in GB
Royal House Antiques Royal House Antiques is delighted to offer for sale this absolutely stunning, original, signed and stamped Dominique Alonzo 19th gold gilt bronze statue of a la...
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Early 20th Century French Southern Territories Edwardian More Objets d'Art and Vertu

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Bronze

Antique Dagger/Knife Stick Pin with Ruby and Rose Cut Diamonds in 18 Carat Gold
Located in London, GB
Detailed out of the ordinary antique yellow gold pin, with an edgy dagger sweet motif of a sharp yellow gold dagger sleek and smooth. The handles are crafted with such consideration,...
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Early 1900s British Antique Edwardian More Objets d'Art and Vertu

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Edwardian Faberge Chalcedony Enamel Gold Bell Push
Located in London, GB
An important Faberge chalcedony, gold and enamel bell push, enamelled translucent blush and pearl grey with sunburst guilloche background, with circular cabo...
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Early 20th Century Edwardian More Objets d'Art and Vertu

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Chalcedony, Yellow Gold

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