“Fashion Designer.”
For most people those words conjure up a leathery man with a hot pink shirt unbuttoned down to there, paparazzi, homes in exotic locals and buckets of Champagne. Well, when speaking about Thom Browne, only one of those things pertains to him, “I drink lots of Champagne,” he says with a shy grin.

Besides the champers, Thom’s life is relatively precise. He is militant with his schedule: Morning jog in Central Park, breakfast at Café Cluny, walk to work, dinner in one of his favorite spots and possibly a night cap with a friend. “The day does not work out as well if I am not on that schedule,” he explains.

Funny thing is his schedule, lifestyle and designs have struck a chord with the modern man. The man who has too many Blackberries beeping, alarms buzzing, and twitters twittering has found solace in Thom’s structured, muted palate of suits and looks up to Thom as a man’s man. Yes, the analogy has been said; he is the ultimate Mad Man.

Mr. Browne has hit another chord with American men, simply because he is American. No more deciphering what designers in Italy, France, and Japan are urging men to wear. This gentleman is American through and through. No translations necessary!

Growing up in Allentown, Pennsylvania, Thom experienced the all American childhood. One of seven children who were all athletic, Thom spent much of his free time in the swimming pool or on the tennis courts. When he wasn’t in an athletic uniform he was in his other: Brooks Brothers. He graduated from Notre Dame and that is when life really started. “Notre Dame was just so conservative,” he sighs.

Quite possibly the most un-Browne move he has made in his life was to transplant to L.A. to try his hand in the world of acting. While immersed in the land of jeans and flip-flops, Thom took an interest in vintage clothing and began revamping old suits and tuxedos and wearing them around the city. Clearly he had found his niche and needed to head back east to realize his dreams. Thom sold his car and headed back to New York where he immersed himself into the world of fashion with gigs at Armani, Lauren, and finally Club Monaco. In 2001, he decided to brave it on his own and began making suits for friends. His aesthetic of cropped pants and blazers with un-ironed shirts with skinny ties began to be seen on hedge funders on the Upper East and hipsters (with a trust fund) in the Lower East. Buzz grew so much that by 2004 Thom opened a spot in the Meat Packing District and began staging fashion shows, which continue to be a highlight of fashion week (Models on ice-skates anyone?).

So what inspired this budding designer to create a new silhouette for men? The ubiquitous Sears catalogue. “I don’t think we ever shopped from it in my home but it was always around. It is a utilitarian American idea to open up a catalogue and buy clothing.” He continues that, “also it was great clothing yet very basic.” When Thom first started thinking about a career in fashion he visited the archives of the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute. A pile of vintage Sears catalogues were the first thing that caught his eye. It was a sign. Besides Sears, he is still inspired by Life Magazine(ITALICS) and their old issues with features on family weekends in New York City. Simple, American, and iconic.

Today, Thom is widely considered the man who got men back in suits. Whether or not the average Joe is wearing his suits specifically, they are re-considering a blazer as a staple and a suit for a night out. When a gentleman comes to Thom Browne for a custom made suit, Thom has an unusual approach. Instead of asking the client what they are looking for, “I want them to know what I do and I appreciate that the customer comes to me for that. It is definitely not a collaboration.” Men beware; don’t come to Thom for wide lapels, hot pink lining and bedazzled buttons.

In 2006, Thom was the recipient of the CFDA’s Menswear Designer of the Year. His “Made in America” mantra has been well received with buyers and editors in the U.S and Japan but Thom is eager to expand the knowledge of the European’s and Middle Easterner’s on his now iconic cut.

Luckily with his collections for Brooks Brothers, the world may not have to wait too long to see a more globally diverse company. Brooks Brothers, as Thom tells us, happened “through my association with the Vogue Fashion Fund, Anna Wintour asked who I would be interested in designing for and I quickly said Brooks Brothers!” Thanks to Ms. Wintour, Mr. Browne was speaking with the company in just a couple of months and Black Fleece was born. Since the debut for fall 2007, the Italian produced line has become a strong seller for Brooks and the company even opened a store in the West Village dedicated exclusively to the line. Thom is exuberant that something that started off as a small collaboration has blossomed into its own entity and hopes that even if he moves on one day, someone else can come in nurture it and continue what he has done.

After the success of Brooks Brothers, others have tapped Thom as a tastemaker to bring a wider audience to their collections. Harry Winston gave Thom carte blanche to design a men’s jewelry line, which resulted in streamlined diamond rings as well as studs, and cufflinks resembling standard issue buttons but covered in diamonds. Again, Thom makes magic with simple menswear. Ski Bunnies take note; his premier collection for Italy’s Moncler will debut in July. More than just outerwear, the line includes sport coats, sweaters, shoes, and of course the down filled outerwear.

Speaking of Bunnies, for fall/winter ’09 Thom has twisted the traditional Fair Isle print into his own wonderland of skiers, snowflakes, and cuddly white rabbits. Most of the textiles are specially made by Savile Row’s Holland & Sherry and one outerwear piece of note is the cashmere Chesterfield that has been coated with plastic by an outdoor furniture supply store to give it the ultimate weather protection.

What’s next for Thom? Well, womenswear is certainly an option but it will happen when it happens. As Brown is sure to say, “I want the company to grow organically and such things take time.” Meanwhile he will continue his military precise daily routine as well as spending time off collecting more vintage champagne coupes – his one and only collectible. Ordering a custom suit anyone? Be sure to bring a bottle of his favorite, Krug, and you will have one happy designer on your hands.

What direction is your style compass pointed?

FASHION

Real and simple!

FABRICS

More structured heavier fabrics such as Cashmere felts, Cavalry twills.

ENTERTAINING

Low key: Me and some friends and plenty of Krug. I love the romance of people who can entertain on the grander scale. I just don’t have the energy. It is such an art and it’s so amazing to see done properly.

COLOR

Gray! All shades.
Herron, derby, raven, asphalt….

TRAVEL

All the traveling I do now is for work. But I do enjoy it! As boring as it sounds, it is fun travel. We stay in nice places and eat well so it’s not so bad.
I would really like to see Havana before it changes. But I’ve never been to Middle East so I would love to see what it is like.

GARDENING or FLORAL

No! I don’t really do either. If they are around it’s fine, but I’m not going out to buy them.

ART or DESIGN

I do like mid-century furniture but not specifically Continental. I like Gio Ponti and the simplicity of Paul McCobb.

As for design, nothing specific comes to mind; simply whatever catches my eye.