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MiriamHaskell 1926-1939 Hess CrystalGlassGalalithBeads GoldGilt WireCoilBracelet
About the Item
This Miriam Haskell (1899-1981) brass-wire wrap coil bracelet that features handcrafted peacock-colored beads and decorative gold-gilt brass was created by her first designer Frank Hess. No Haskell jewelry since its founding in New York City in 1926 was marked with a permanent signature until 1947, so pieces are identified by their findings and style.
The unsigned flexible bracelet is structured from wire, which Hess recurrently shaped in a variety of non-fastening by-pass styles. Notably, each terminal is embellished with a dangling crystal: one is an aqua bead like some on the bracelet, while the other foiled clear one is a distinctive bezel-set rose-montee whose wiring is concealed in the gilt brass cup.
The bracelet may date to the late 1920s when wearing adjustable ones on the upper arm became popular for sleeveless dresses. Consistent with dating the bracelet on the early side, it includes the finest Parisian costume-jewelry beads handmade from glass, galalith, and gilt metal by lampwork-master Louis Rousselet, who was also a couture parurier for Coco Chanel since the 1920s.
Along the five-row gold-accented coiled wire, multiple reflective shapes of lampworked mottled glass, faceted crystal, and painted galalith repeat in cool-tone sections--from greenish aqua to royal blue to reddish purple again and again ending in aqua. The beads are tightly spaced with a variety of characteristic fluted metal findings including shiny rondelles and more elaborate matte caps. Larger periwinkle-blue lampworked glass beads divide each color section.
The bracelet diameter can be adjusted to fit any wrist or wrap up the lower or upper arm. The 32-inch-long coil compacts to a width of 2 inches when resting on a tabletop like in our photos.
To enable the bracelet to slip over a hand, the coil must be temporarily unraveled to some degree, while it will spring back into shape on the wrist. It can remain on a small female wrist without concern for slipping off.
- Creator:
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- Dimensions:Diameter: 3 in (76.2 mm)
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- Date of Manufacture:1926-1946
- Condition:Wear consistent with age and use.
- Seller Location:Chicago, IL
- Reference Number:1stDibs: LU3244220369672
About the Seller
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Established in 2012
1stDibs seller since 2022
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- ShippingRetrieving quote...Ships From: North Adams, MA
- Return PolicyA return for this item may be initiated within 1 day of delivery.
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