Ruby Bee Ear

Art Nouveau — generally considered to have begun in the late 1800s and ended with the start of World War I — was a movement in the decorative arts that drew inspiration from natural forms, such as trees, flowers and, of course, the human figure. The three main themes present in Art Nouveau jewelry and watches were flora, fauna and women.

Art Nouveau, which reached its pinnacle in the year 1900, spawned from artists who rejected the historicism of their predecessors to create an entirely new visual vocabulary. As compared to Art Deco jewelry’s geometric patterns and sharp lines, the extravagant style of antique Art Nouveau jewelry is characterized by curvilinear forms and whiplash lines, vibrant materials and dramatic imagery.

The first art and design movement of the 20th century, Art Nouveau was also a reaction against the Industrial Revolution, and took its inspiration from the theories of the Symbolists, the art of the Pre-Raphaelites, the ideas of John Ruskin and his follower William Morris and, most importantly Japanese crafts. (The country was a fertile ground for inspiration after it was opened to the West in 1854.) The Art Nouveau style touched all manners of the arts, including the most exultant jewelry.

Nature was a favorite muse for artists going back to the 18th and 19th centuries, but in the hands of 20th-century artists, it was depicted in new ways. For example, a withering flower was considered just as beautiful as one in full bloom. Winged creatures, such as insects and birds, were also a popular subject. Dragonflies and butterflies were particular favorites because they morphed so dramatically in different life stages.

This was also a reference to women, whose role in society was evolving. It was not uncommon to see a piece of jewelry that would at once reference a woman as a winged creature (think René Lalique’s famous Dragonfly brooch, circa 1897–98, at the Gulbenkian Collection in Lisbon). However, just as women’s roles were ambiguous, so was their image, as the femmes nouvelle were simultaneously eroticized and romanticized.

In addition to Lalique, vital figures in Art Nouveau jewelry included Louis Comfort Tiffany in the United States, Vladimir Soloviev, who designed jewelry for Peter Carl Fabergé in Russia, Fuset Grau of Spain, Karl Rothmuller of Germany and Philippe Wolfers of Belgium.

Art Nouveau jewelers used every “canvas” imaginable, looking beyond brooches and necklaces to belt buckles, fans, tiaras, dog collars (a type of choker necklace), pocket watches, corsages and hair combs. Multicolored gems and enamel could complete this vision better than diamonds. Jewelers also favored pearls, particularly baroque pearls, for their large size and irregular shape. However, opal was the most popular stone — its iridescence harmonized perfectly with the enamel, and it could be carved into any shape. Art Nouveau jewelry was primarily set in yellow gold.

Find a range of antique Art Nouveau jewelry today on 1stDibs.

Crafted to match every color palette, mood or whim, a luxurious pair of vintage clip-on earrings, like any pair of earrings, goes a long way toward completing a look and contributing to the rich form of self-expression that is accessorizing with your favorite jewelry.

Everyone loves a glamorous pair of earrings, but not everyone wants their ears pierced. That’s where a dazzling pair of clip-ons comes in.

Wearing earrings goes back thousands of years, but ear piercing didn’t really become popular in the United States until the 1950s and ’60s. Over the years, jewelry designers have endeavored to create all kinds of clip-on earrings to provide jewelry lovers with a way to express themselves by wearing their favorite adornments without having to undergo the piercing process.

Whether it’s the extravagant diamond clip-on drop earrings or chandelier earrings that flappers donned during Art Deco’s heyday — short hair was in style during the era, so women favored big, bold earrings — or if subdued pearl earrings, platinum earrings (a particularly versatile choice) or a contemporary variety is your thing, clip-on earrings have been made in all kinds of styles over the years.

Clip-on earrings continue to be a comfortable alternative to the traditional iteration, and these accessories are as stylish and adaptable to both casual and formal wear as they’ve ever been.

Explore a vast range of vintage clip-on earrings on 1stDibs now, and find the perfect pair for any ensemble. Our collection includes striking clip-on earrings by David Webb, Tiffany & Co., Van Cleef & Arpels and others.