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1990s StephenJones HandmadeInEngland AbstractWoolFelt SatinLined Ecru Cloche Hat
About the Item
Recognized as "one of the world's most radical and important milliners" according to the British V&A Museum, English Stephen Jones (b. 1957) made London the mecca for fashionable hats while handcrafting them since the 1980s for his special clients and his eponymous Covent Garden boutique, which just a year after he graduated from the prestigious design-school St.Martins was backed by the owner of the trend-setting nightclub Blitz. While also credited for mentoring younger U.K.-based milliner Philip Traecy, his collaborations with fashion designers for their couture or ready-to-wear collection shows included the late Vivienne Westwood and Thierry Mugler, along with many other leaders such as Jean-Paul Gaultier, John Galliano and Rei Kawakubo. His dramatic hats may be more widely remembered for gracing the covers of numerous European fashion magazines worn by models or entertainers.
While his hats are often custom-made to be worn at special events, this distinct geometric abstract design in textural ecru thick felted wool is a satin-lined cloche style that is durable enough to be worn much more often in cool weather. Most likely made in the 1990s when progressive designers like Kawakubo/Comme des Garcons and Martin Margiela emphasized fashion construction with non-figural shapes, the medium-sized women's hat features layers of felt rectangular cut-work that are invisibly sewn via concealed tulle into an asymmetrical horizontal-stripe pattern. Unlike an early 20th-Century molded dome-topped cloche, this flexible design by Jones has a seamed flat irregular oval top and can be folded for travel or storage.
On the interior, the grosgrain band includes his early black-and-white label "Stephen Jones Handmade In England", along with a printed silver overlapping triple star at the top that repeats his full name. The only sign that it has been worn at least once is on the interior ribbon. In terms of construction, lining and color, it is in excellent like-new condition. From the exterior, the hat circumference is 23 inches near the bottom.
As the V&A noted that Jones was inspired to become a milliner after viewing one of its exhibitions of early 1900s hats while a student, it is no surprise that one of his agendas was to modernize the cloche. For comparison to a classic cloche commissioned by another famous modern couture designer, the late Elsa Schiaparelli, please see our other listing for a grey fur hat.
- Designer:
- Brand:
- Dimensions:Height: 5.5 in (13.97 cm)Diameter: 7 in (17.78 cm)Marked Size: Medium (UK)
- Style:cloche (In the Style Of)
- Place of Origin:
- Period:
- Condition:Wear consistent with age and use.
- Seller Location:Chicago, IL
- Reference Number:1stDibs: LU3244221459862
About the Seller
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1stDibs seller since 2022
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- ShippingRetrieving quote...Ships From: North Adams, MA
- Return PolicyA return for this item may be initiated within 1 day of delivery.
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