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1930s JeanneLavinParis ArtDeco TulleSilk CoutureAdaptation Black Evening Jacket

Name: 1930s JeanneLavinParis ArtDeco TulleSilk CoutureAdaptation Black Evening Jacket
Brand: Jeanne Lanvin
Price: 7560 USD
Availability: InStock

About the Item

In the 1930s when French couturier Jeanne Lanvin (1867-1946) was creating decorative bias-cut silk tulle overlays for her feminine full-skirted sleeveless "robes de style", she designed this black semi-transparent silk-tulle formal jacket featuring diagonally-striped topstitched silk-crepe appliques throughout the bias-cut panels. This sheer geometric-patterned cape-like jacket has a skirt that drapes from an open waistline and a top-fastening bodice with gathered rounded 3/4-length sleeves that each have two arm seams and shirred embroidered cuffs. It could have been the first "swing coat" design that was given that name around 1935, when Lanvin was the "uncontested leader in the haute-couture field" according to the French Palais Galliera that has collected and exhibited similar garments at its fashion museum in Paris. In New York, TheMet collected a House of Lanvin black evening coat with a similar shape that also features dramatic linear appliques, but in a white starburst, which it dates to Spring/Summer 1927. The unprecedented modern look of this Art-Deco women's jacket, which was inspired by 18th-Century French and Spanish topcoats for aristocratic court dresses, may have been good cause for Maison Lanvin to custom-make some close reproductions of a one-of-a-kind couture original for additional clients in Paris, which is implied by the remaining French brand-label noting "Adaptation Jean Lanvin 22 Faub. St. Honore Paris"--the location where Lanvin first gained her initial fame for her cloche hats as a milliner. Until the end of the 1930s, the inventive designer created an array of embellishments and accessories to continue to produce novel variations of her signature robe-de-style, whose form changed little since she introduced it in the early 1910s. We noticed that another 1stDibs dealer has listed an "Art Deco tulle gown" with a Jeanne Lanvin 1931-dated couture label, whose maxi-dress overlay is similarly constructed with ribbon-like silk strips to create a unique bold pattern. So there was ample time for Lanvin to rework this early-1930s style before she died, whereafter her daughter continued to operate what has since become the longest-running couture business. As this is a museum-worthy piece approaching a century in age, we will leave the decision to the buyer if they wish to restore the well-constructed jacket with its surprisingly sturdy materials, which--like the aforementioned $37,500-listing for the tulle gown and the archived fragile fashion featured in TheMet current exhibition "Sleeping Beauties: Reawakening Fashion"--is damaged with some holes, plus rips near the neck where we have added one black safety-pin at the left shoulder seam for its display on a mannequin for our photography. As the fabrics remain black and there are textural elements throughout the patterned jacket, we believe that an expert could repair it to suit a U.S.-size 2 or 4. Hidden on the front below the right corner of the neckline, there are four small black hooks for fastening the jacket to the other side above the bust. In our photos, we only fastened the top hook.

Designer:

Jeanne Lanvin

Brand:

Jeanne Lanvin

Dimensions:

Length: 31 in (78.74 cm)

Style:

Art Deco, sleeping beauty (Of the Period)

Place of Origin:

France

Period:

1930-1939

Condition:

Wear consistent with age and use.

Seller Location:

Chicago, IL

Reference Number:

1stDibs: LU3244222107572

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Shop All Jeanne Lanvin

Jeanne Lanvin

The career of Jeanne Lanvin (1867–1946) and her eponymous brand began with a millinery apprenticeship in the late 19th century. Today, Lanvin Paris is a globally revered company and is among the oldest French fashion houses still in existence. It is renowned for its exquisite and sought-after vintage evening dresses, shoes, skirts and other garments and accessories and for having dressed such high-profile celebrities as Meryl Streep, Natalie Portman, Kim Kardashian and Sienna Miller.

In 1889, when her apprenticeship came to an end, the young French designer Jeanne Lanvin opened a custom hat shop on the rue Boissy d’Anglas in Paris. Four years later, she moved her business into a much more prominent space on the rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, one of the world’s most famous luxury fashion districts.

The new Maison Lanvin was big enough to display the pieces she would design for her daughter, Marguerite, who was born in 1897. The relationship between Lanvin and her daughter would be at the core of the brand, with a 1907 photograph of Jeanne and Marguerite in matching outfits inspiring the fashion house’s enduring logo.

In 1908, Lanvin launched a line of children’s clothing, one of the first such moves in high-end fashion. When mothers came in to buy the clothes, they often asked for similar designs for themselves.

Lanvin decided to introduce a women’s wear line with pieces that had a youthful femininity. This would grow to encompass everyday clothing, dresses, coats, lingerie and furs, as well as menswear, perfume and household items. Once she became a member of the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture (Parisian Fashion Council) in 1909, her title officially switched from milliner to designer.

Along with her stylish designs, Lanvin identified the importance of brand identity through fabric colors, opening a dye factory in Nanterre, France. There the distinctive “Lanvin blue” was produced, so even if her designs were copied, the colors could never be exactly reproduced.

After Jeanne Lanvin's death, her daughter, Marguerite Marie-Blanche de Polignac, took over and a series of talented artistic directors would propel the brand through the trends of the 20th century, including Jules François Crahay, Dominique Morlotti, Alber Elbaz and, most recently, Bruno Sialelli.

In 2018, Lanvin was acquired by the Fosun Fashion Group, which is now focused on celebrating Lanvin’s heritage while pushing it into a new chapter.

Find vintage Jeanne Lanvin evening dresses, jackets and other clothing on 1stDibs.