Skip to main content
Want more images or videos?
Request additional images or videos from the seller
1 of 11

Antique NativeAmerican LeatherBraidedSeamsStrapsNeckline Sleeveless Hide Dress

About the Item

This antique Native American brown chamois suede leather sleeveless chemise dress, which was handmade during the "reservation era" between 1870-1930, is made from two soft supple animal hides producing a slightly irregular hem length. In lieu of ornamentation with other organic materials, thin leather-strand whipcords are intricately braided to construct the threadless side seams, neckline, and shoulder straps, whose ends are knotted so they will not unravel. The minuscule holes for weaving the strands were likely made with a porcupine quill, as the beaver-like animal is indigenous to North American wooded areas. The neckline is a deep V-shape in the back where the shoulder straps are narrower. The tightly tied straps appear like they could be adjusted to suit large breasts or a longer torso. The size is comparable to a US 4, while it could also fit a larger size if body-shape has slim waist/hips. There are some natural imperfections in the soft hand-tanned leather, while it is in good condition to comfortably wear versus merely display. Given the small amount of decoration on this dress, it was a non-ceremonial piece made for and worn by a teenage Native American. Both women and men wore animal skin clothing in cooler weather, so this dress may also have been worn under a long-sleeve tunic/shawl/cape and over leggings. In the Western U.S., the Navajo and Hopi are known for their intricate leather braiding to artistically assemble objects, which can still be found in their contemporary jewelry such as for bolo ties or belts. The most similar antiques that we found at the National Museum of the American Indian were made circa 1909-1927 by the Kiowa, Washoe, Apache, Sioux, Plain Cree, Comanche, Ute, Warm Springs, Blackfoot, Nez Perce, Slavey, and Assiniboine. We obtained this dress from a non-Native- American owner, who bought it in the late-20th Century from a former Santa Fe-based antique dealer who specialized in American tribal objects. The East Coast collector had met the dealer after they were vetted for independent exhibition at the leading annual armory-located antique shows in New York City. We have found similar dresses with far less intricate braided decoration, as well as in poor condition, that are sold by Americana specialists for upwards of $12,000. Like the 20th-Century couture and fine fashion that we offer, this handmade dress in a timeless style is likely to increase in value if kept in good condition.
  • Dimensions:
    Marked Size: 4 (US)
  • Style:
    Native American, western fringe (In the Style Of)
  • Place of Origin:
  • Period:
  • Condition:
    Wear consistent with age and use.
  • Seller Location:
    Chicago, IL
  • Reference Number:
    1stDibs: LU3244220144102
More From This SellerView All
  • 1950s LingerieLike Ruched CrepeSilk & SemiTransparentOrganzaNetSkirt MiniDress
    Located in Chicago, IL
    This unusual mid-century lingerie-style black semi-transparent mini dress that conjures a historic pinup-girl like Bettie Page is suitable as a cocktail dress as part of an evening ensemble. It was probably meant by its New York designer to be paired with slim cropped pants, which became popular in The States after worn by Hollywood-movie actresses Audrey Hepburn and Marilyn Monroe. The A-line dress was most likely made by the former ready-to-wear fashion company following the revolutionary debut by French Christian Dior of his couture cinched-waist-voluminous-skirt "New Look" collection, whereafter German Sonja de Lennart introduced "Capris" in 1949, and American Hugh Hefner launched Playboy magazine in 1953. The complex hourglass-shaped garment features a double v-neck four-seamed ruched lined bodice in a crepe silky woven fabric. Its defined gathered bust extends from the chest seams at two angles to form short dolman sleeves only in the front, while there are arm seams in back. The gathered see-through black faux-lace organza flared skirt reveals a black velvet-textured scalloped floral pattern with a net underlayer. With beige lining, the self-trim band at the waist enables the folded scalloped-lace pattern to continue to stand out on the opaque black torso. The edges of the peplum and sleeves are further cut in a scallop shape to resemble more delicate eyelash-lace trim. The brand label of the obsolete line is the only interior tag that remains. Camouflaging the midsection, the flattering dress will best suit a U.S.-size 6. It can also be worn by larger sizes with a relatively slim waist and small or large bust as there is no restriction at the hips or wide armholes. At the waistline, a hook and looped cord fasten over the bypass zipper to better conceal it. Notably, the steel-tab-and-teeth zipper is an original U.S-made Murlen model, which was used in new clothes from the 1940s to 1960s and helps to date the mid-century dress.
    Category

    1950s American Mini Dress

  • CommeDesGarcons 2003 RunwayLook1 Ruched Parachute Convertible White Dress Gown
    By Comme des Garçons, Junya Watanabe Comme des Garçons
    Located in Chicago, IL
    Junya Wantanabe made this inimitable white ruched floaty sleeveless semi-transparent dress with distinct parachute elements as "Look 1 and 2" (see photos) for the Parisian fashion show debut of his Spring/Summer 2003 collection, which was produced by his design mentor Rei Kawakubo's Japanese brand Comme des Garcons. The stunning combination of contrasts range from romantic-and-combat themes, gathered-and-flowing construction, raw-and-finished seams, soft-and-hard materials, and cutout-and-semi-transparent fabric. Secured on the exterior of the dress with bold silver-metal hardware, the 100%-cotton grosgrain-ribbon parachute-like straps are partly enclosed within multiple diagonal and vertical ruched channels to enable adjustment of the light synthetic-fabric draping and swags, such as for lengthening the dress. Strap ends freely hang from functional hardware on the front of the dress and below the sides as if they could be yanked to release the fabric into a drifty parachute sail. The reverse side of the dress is notable for the ruffled diamond-shaped cutout at the lower back and its framing set of adjustable looped parachute straps with a concealed white plastic buckle, which enables the hitched-up bottom to extend into a train like a dreamy wedding dress. This premiere-catwalk dress is further distinguished from others in Wantanabe's "Parachute Jumper" collection by the complexity of its top. Two ruched straps form an X-shape via metal-hardware at the upper back, extending to the front over the shoulders to form a ruched V-neck with linked straps that highlights your face. The soft folds of the neckline contribute to the raised ruffle collar, as well as flow to the shoulder seams. The hand-cut hem was designed unfinished and meant to fray, although it has not given its minimal wear and very good condition consistent with only age and storage. See our photos of the care/material tags. All tags remain, including from the Italian concept-store 10 Corso Como, where it was purchased in Milan. The "Made in Japan" size is a large-running "S" due to the pullover-style of the dress, which is equivalent to an Italian-size 44 or U.S.-size 6. In addition to wearing as a convertible dress...
    Category

    Early 2000s Japanese Evening Dresses

  • CommeDesGarcons 1999 RunwayLook12 BiasCut TranslucentSatin SalmonPink Maxi Dress
    By Rei Kawakubo Comme Des Garcons, Comme des Garçons
    Located in Chicago, IL
    In an atypical Japanese-dye color for Rei Kawakubo, in 1999 she designed this translucent salmon-pink bias-cut satin sleeveless maxi dress evening gown for her brand Comme des Garcons, which debuted on a model walking the Paris runway that Fall as "Look 12" among the Vogue photo-coverage of her Spring/Summer 2000 collection. The unusual V-neck shape creates a central drape in the front of the unlined dress that prevents the synthetic semi-transparent fabric from clinging to the torso, while still enabling the lower part to swoosh while walking. With the exception of the brand tag, all others were removed by the sole owner to eliminate bulk and visibility through the dress. If the buyer would prefer, the fabric can be made shinier and completely smooth with professional pressing. Please notice that In a couple of our photos the white drapery next to or below the dress was converted by 1stDibs auto-editing to appear like trailing elements, where there are none. Also, as we used a backless mannequin for our photos, the rear side of the dress at the top is draping inward--not outward. We have other textural colorful items with over-dyed unique appliques from this same Spring/Summer 2000 collection if the buyer may want to layer pieces for a look similar to the fashion show. This is such a beautiful minimal dress...
    Category

    Early 2000s Japanese Evening Gowns

  • CommeDesGarcons 1996 Convertible Padded RedRoseJacquard & NavyCotton Skirt Cape
    By Comme des Garçons, Junya Watanabe Comme des Garçons
    Located in Chicago, IL
    In 1996, Japanese Junya Wantanabe made this sculptural red whorled-rose jacquard padded evening coat/jacket cape to convert to an equally stunning asymmetrical A-line or symmetrical ...
    Category

    1990s Japanese Cocoon Coats

  • TomFord 2001 1stYearYSL Silk PlungingV Ruched Draped Black MaxiDress EveningGown
    By Tom Ford, Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche
    Located in Chicago, IL
    For his first collection for Yves Saint Laurent Paris/Rive Gauche while also creative director at Gucci, American Tom Ford designed this Spring/Summer 2001 black formal evening gown ...
    Category

    Early 2000s French Maxi Dress

  • 1980s BergdorfGoodman Costa Corseted Strapless Quintessential Little Black Dress
    By Victor Costa, Bergdorf Goodman
    Located in Chicago, IL
    This timeless quintessential corseted, shirred, ruched and topstitched "little black dress" produced by Victor Costa in the 1980s was made for the high standards of New York's trendsetting Bergdorf Goodman when it was the first U.S. luxury department store to order exclusive special-occasion dresses from this Texas designer and subsequently to give him a namesake in-store boutique. He soon became associated with the feminine glamorous gowns worn by "PYT" (Costa-speak for pretty young things) on the Dallas-based television-series "Dynasty", which idealized a status-conscious Texas woman mostly via fashion. With a strapless curvaceous sweetheart neckline (spared from '80s shoulder pads!), narrow sinuous folds of crepe silk-blend jersey cross diagonally below the decollete, while contrasting vertical ruching defines the seven bones of the invisible corset structure that is fully lined on the interior. Under the bust in front below the empire-like peaked high waist, the fitted tucked underlay of the cocktail dress wraps around the back to end as an overlay in front, where the opening on the left side extends to the bodice like a discreet slit. The freely hanging bias-cut overlay in front is gathered underneath each breast for a forgiving central drape that adds additional curves to make the wearer's torso underneath appear in sleek condition despite a potentially less than ideal figure. The dress closes with a concealed zipper in the center of the back, with exterior hook-and-eye fastening to narrow the waist. There is a second concealed hook-and-eye fastener at the top of the zipper. Although the only remaining tag is the Costa/Bergdorf label, it is a contemporary U.S.-size 8, which will also suit a large-busted size 6 or a svelte size 10. Now 88 years old, Victor Costa (b.1935) became widely known by the 1980s in The States for perfecting affordable luxurious gowns that could be mistaken for one-of-a-kind flamboyant designs by foreign couturiers Christian Lacroix, Arnold Scaasi, Oscar de la Renta or Valentino Garavani. Early on, the avid female sketcher...
    Category

    1980s American Cocktail Dresses

You May Also Like
  • Gianni Versace navy blue open-knit bodycon dress and cardigan set, fw 1993
    By Gianni Versace
    Located in London, GB
    ▪ Gianni Versace navy blue open-knit dress and cardigan 2 piece set ▪ Sleeveless bodycon maxi dress with lining ▪ Long-sleeve full-length cardigan ▪ Gold Medusa buttons ▪ Can be wo...
    Category

    1990s Italian Evening Dresses and Gowns

  • Vivienne Westwood bronze stretch-velvet and gold foil printed dress, fw 1990
    By Vivienne Westwood
    Located in London, GB
    ▪ Vivienne Westwood bronze stretch-velvet evening dress ▪ Gold foil neoclassical print inspired by Andre-Charles Boulle ▪ Concealed zipper at center-back ▪ Size Medium ▪ Fall-Winter...
    Category

    1990s British Evening Dresses and Gowns

  • Lilac & Multicolor Patbo One-Shoulder Floral Print Dress Size US 0
    Located in New York, NY
    Lilac and multicolor floral print one-shoulder tiered ruffle dress by Patbo. Belt at waist. Zip closure at side. 26" bust, 24" waist, 51" length.
    Category

    21st Century and Contemporary South American Evening Dresses and Gowns

  • Matthew Williamson Navy Blue Smocked Waist Detail Embellished Neck Sleeveless Dr
    By Matthew Williamson
    Located in Dubai, Al Qouz 2
    When you feel like looking fantastic, pick this dress from Matthew Williamson. This sleeveless outfit exudes modernity and elegance with its beautifully embellished neck and interest...
    Category

    2010s Italian Evening Dresses

  • Emilio Pucci Blue Silk Dress
    By Emilio Pucci
    Located in Paris, FR
    Emilio Pucci blue silk jersey printed dress featuring an iconic geometric print, a front gathered detail. Composition: 100% silk Estimated size IT42/38fr/US6 /UK10 Made in Italy. In...
    Category

    1990s French Cocktail Dresses

  • 1980s A J Bari Vintage Silver Evening Dress w Puffed Gathered Sleeves & Pockets
    By A.J. Bari
    Located in Portland, OR
    We love this vintage A. J. Bari vintage dress from the 1980's. The dress is in a silver abstract pattern fabric and it has a gently pleated skirt, gather...
    Category

    1980s American Evening Dresses

Recently Viewed

View All