Vintage 1996 MARTIN MARGIELA black runway coat with 'elongated' pockets
About the Item
- Designer:
- Brand:
- Dimensions:Length: 30 in (76.2 cm)Marked Size: IT 44 (EU)Bust: 39 in (99.06 cm)
- Place of Origin:
- Period:
- Material Notes:Fabric content: 100% leather; lining 100% cotton; sleeve: 100% leather; sleeve lining 52% cupro and 48% viscose.
- Condition:Wear consistent with age and use. Light signs of fading. Coat was never jet black.
- Seller Location:San Fransisco, CA
- Reference Number:1stDibs: LU8120829922
Maison Martin Margiela
Belgian designer Martin Margiela (b. 1957) — whose life, career, and designs for handbags, clothing and shoes have become cult-collector obsessions — pushed those who attended his shows outside their comfort zones. In the years following the 1988 debut of Maison Martin Margiela, he toyed with creative and aesthetic paradoxes that persist in fashion today.
Consider the Spring/Summer 2001 shirt patchworked from vintage clothing labels, or his famous corset dresses made from tailoring dummies, from his Fall/Winter 1997 line. Or his oversize collection for Fall/Winter 2000. In 1992, Margiela told Dépêche Mode magazine, “My clothes appeal to women of a certain mindset rather than of a specific age or physique.”
Born in Genk, Belgium, in 1957, Margiela knew he wanted to be a fashion designer after catching glimpses of Parisian fashion on TV as a child. Although his parents discouraged this career choice as an oddly funny aspiration, Margiela enrolled in the fashion program of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp. There, he befriended and graduated a year ahead of the Antwerp Six — the acclaimed group of Belgian fashion designers comprising Dries Van Noten, Walter Van Beirendonck, Ann Demeulemeester, Marina Yee, Dirk Bikkembergs and Dirk Van Saene.
Like many of his contemporaries in the 1980s, Margiela understood Paris fashion but felt a deep resonance with the deconstructed beauty espoused by Japanese designers Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo, of Comme des Garçons. Margiela’s fascination with Japan influenced many of his earliest collections and designs, from a dress pieced together from broken plates to his iconic Tabi boots, inspired by the split-toe Japanese worker’s shoe, which dates back to the 15th century.
Margiela decided to launch his own line while working for renowned Paris designer Jean Paul Gaultier. With Belgian designer Jenny Meirens, Margiela established Maison Martin Margiela in the French capital in 1988.
Margiela’s debut show was nothing short of spectacular. Set in a packed Café de la Gare in the still-seedy Marais district, it was also scandalous to the Parisian fashion set of the time. The designer tore up the conventions of contemporary couture presentations, most notably having his models, plucked from the streets and wearing ink-blotted Tabis, wend their way through the crowd.
The show redefined the concept of the runway in a way that would later inspire such designers as Alexander McQueen and Demna Gvasalia.
While the notoriously private designer retired from fashion in 2009, for many Maison Martin Margiela collectors, his pieces capture the irreverence of the postwar, post-punk late 1980s and ’90s. Katy Rodriguez, cofounder of the cult vintage fashion shop Resurrection, is among those who felt a connection to Margiela’s clothing in the subliminal challenges it posed to the time’s beauty norms.
“Growing up in San Francisco and coming out of the end of punk rock, not wanting to be objectified, not wanting to be seen as a sexual object, not wanting your value to be just because you’re pretty — all those clothes played into all of that,” she says. “It really was a reflection of the kind of world the young people I knew at the time wanted to live in.”
John Galliano was named creative director at the house in 2014 and it rebranded as Maison Margiela in 2015.
Find vintage Maison Martin Margiela boots, evening dresses, jackets and more on 1stDibs.
- ShippingRetrieving quote...Ships From: Oakland, CA
- Return PolicyThis item cannot be returned.
- 1983 YVES SAINT LAURENT dark grey leather runway jacketBy Yves Saint LaurentLocated in San Fransisco, CAVery rare, dark grey leather jacket with oversized collar and belted waist designed by Yves Saint Laurent dating to fall of 1983 exactly as seen on the runway. French size 36. Fits...Category
1970s French Jackets
- 2015 CELINE By Phoebe Philo Khaki Wool Coat With Open ClosureBy Celine, Phoebe PhiloLocated in San Fransisco, CAStunning, khaki wool coat with open closure designed by Phoebe Philo for Celine dating to pre-fall of 2015, look 5. Labeled a French 36 however due to oversized cut, it will accommod...Category
2010s French Coats and Outerwear
- 2002 TOM FORD For YVES SAINT LAURENT tan embroidered runway jacketBy Tom Ford, Yves Saint LaurentLocated in San Fransisco, CAVery rare, tan canvas peplum jacket with embroidery designed by Tom Ford for Yves Saint Laurent exactly as seen on the runway for Spring 2002. Labeled a French size 38 although this ...Category
Early 2000s French Jackets
- 1973 YVES SAINT LAURENT brown cotton jacket with quilted hood and waist tieBy Yves Saint Laurent, Yves Saint Laurent Rive GaucheLocated in San Fransisco, CADocumented brown, cotton jacket with quilted hood designed by Yves Saint Laurent dating to 1973. No size is indicated however this jacket best fits a size 2-6 depending on desired f...Category
1970s French Jackets
- 1990's HELMUT LANG tan denim jacketBy Helmut LangLocated in San Fransisco, CAClassic tan denim jacket designed by Helmut Lang dating to the 1990's. Italian size 40. Approximate measurements: shoulder 15.5", bust 36", hem width 36", arm length 24" and overall...Category
1990s Italian Jackets
- 1990's HELMUT LANG distressed denim jacket with extra long turn up cuffsBy Helmut LangLocated in San Fransisco, CAPerfectly distressed, denim jacket with extra long turn up cuffs designed by Helmut Lang dating to the 1990's. Italian size 38. Approximate measurements: shoulder 15", bust 36", hem ...Category
1990s Italian Jackets
- KJUS Size M Burgundy Navy Color Block Polyester Wool Zermatt JacketBy KJUSLocated in San Francisco, CAKJUS 'Zermatt' jacket comes in a burgundy & navy color block polyester / wool featuring a hooded style, waterproof, zipper pockets, sleeve logo detail, and a full zip up closure. New...Category
21st Century and Contemporary Jackets
- Vintage 1997 Chanel Off White Gathered Bomber JacketBy Chanel, Karl Lagerfeld for ChanelLocated in Sheung Wan, HK- Chanel white gathered bomber jacket from 1997 spring collection. - Ribbed details. - Gold hardware “Chanel” front zip fastening. - White and Gold “CC” button. - Two front f...Category
1990s French Sport Jackets
- 1980s Moschino Couture Pied de Poule red and black jacketBy MoschinoLocated in Capri, IT1980s Moschino Couture Pied de Poule red and black jacketCategory
1980s Italian Jackets
- 1970s Adolfo Black/White Arabesque Pattern Knit Tunic Jacket w Frog ClosuresBy AdolfoLocated in Gresham, OR1970s Adolfo Black/White Arabesque Pattern Knit Tunic Jacket w Frog Closures: Banded Collar. Unlined. Side vents. Black knit piping at edges and cuffs. US size Small.Category
1970s American Jackets
- Bonnie Cashin The Knittery Noh Cardigan Jacket Hand Knit Kimono Sleeve Rare 70sBy Bonnie CashinLocated in Port Saint Lucie, FLPreowned, vintage Bonnie Cashin 'The Knittery' Noh cardigan jacket, made in 1972. Crafted from a substantial chunky knit in shades of oatmeal, cream and brown, it features Kimono-st...Category
1970s European Jackets
- Giorgio Armani Brown Leather and Fur Zipper Jacket XXLBy Giorgio ArmaniLocated in Dubai, Al Qouz 2Infuse an extra dose of style into your outfit with this highly fashionable jacket. Tailored from quality materials, it embodies a contemporary vibe and is filled with functional cha...Category
2010s Italian Jackets