Skip to main content
Want more images or videos?
Request additional images or videos from the seller
1 of 12

Antique Amuletic DozenRockCrystals CagedRing MedievalStyle GiltBronze Pendant

About the Item

This antique amuletic bronze framed pendant cages a dozen 7mm-diameter single-cut rock crystals that each feature a table-cut decagon crown, deep pavilion, 21 facets and uncut girdle, while the culets range from off-center to blunted. They are tightly set within four linked rings to overlap at the same angle in a sparkling single row. Seeming to retain a little of its original yellow-gold gilding on just the interior, the frame that surrounds each of the four sections of three crystals enables them to reflect pale-yellow-and-lime light when the pendant is viewed from certain angles. Suggesting French heritage, the Medieval Frankish culture in northern France made jewelry in similar segmented or openwork shapes of wheels or whorls, which were worn as gem-decorated disk-shaped brooches or gold-caged rock-crystal sphere pendants. But gem faceting as we know it was not widely practiced until the 16th Century with advanced European lapidary tools, mostly in France and the Netherlands. As the single cuts on these crystals predate Baroque and brilliant rose-cuts, it could date to the 16th Century while rock crystal remained more popular in European pendants than diamonds. Among its collected decorative objects dating to the 1500s, TheMet museum notes in its online descriptions that during this century "rock crystal was priced at its weight in gold". Conservatively, the pendant could be from as late as the mid-18th Century during the Louis XV period when gilt bronze chandeliers with rock-crystal pendants were stylish. Like kinetic chandelier crystals, the pendant bail with jump-ring enables turning movement while dangling for maximum shimmer. Originally, it may have been worn as a single earring via a ribbon tied around the ear or hair, or sewn onto stiff fabric such as a hat. While it is unclear if there are specs on or in the crystals, as they can be individually rotated, they may be enhanced by a professional cleaning. An antiquity like this pendant may have motivated haute-couture fashion-designer Gabriel "Coco" Chanel's favorite fine-jewelry artist Fulco di Verdura to create his iconic mid-century gold-cage ring filled with smaller loose cut-gems. Earlier, the duo had traveled together exploring museum-collected European cultural artifacts, whose designs and materials inspired some of their best known works. The 21st Century "Caged Collection" of loose cut-gems--developed by the ongoing business of Verdura in homage to its founder--is the only jewelry that we could find that approximates the curvilinear-cage design of this antique crystal-filled pendant, while it has not reproduced one like ours.
More From This SellerView All
  • Trifari 1940s Philippe 4PieceParure CrystalFloraMotif GoldNecklaceEarringsBrooch
    By Alfred Philippe for Trifari
    Located in Chicago, IL
    In the late 1940s, Trifari's French-born artistic director Alfred Philippe, who had earlier created fine jewelry for Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, designed this flora-motif crystal...
    Category

    Mid-20th Century American Art Deco Pendant Necklaces

    Materials

    Crystal, Diamond, Gold, Gold Plate, Yellow Gold

  • 16thCentury Renaissance SilverRepousse Romantic Engagement Pendant Or HatBadge
    Located in Chicago, IL
    This early-16th-Century Renaissance period silver-repousse round medallion pendant features a romantic encounter in a rural landscape between a man and smiling woman wearing European-nobility fashion, including a men's feathered hat, tights and sword. A silversmith was commissioned by this unknown man to make the pendant as a hat badge to promote his affectionate nature, which is conveyed by the welcomed gestures between the adult couple, who stand cheek-to-cheek and hand-in-hand. As there is a church in the distant landscape, this may have been his wedding-engagement announcement. It is worth noting that romantic love via marriage was a rarity before the 18th Century. The tragic romantic Italian legend of Romeo and Juliet was first translated into English for publication in 1562--several decades before Shakespeare turned it into a famous play about a deadly consequence of separating lovers. The pendant medallion is framed with a filigree-like inward-curving bezel and a flat metal backplate, while its bail enables it to be pinned as a brooch or strung on a necklace. A perfect engagement or wedding gift for a man or woman who loves antique...
    Category

    Antique 16th Century French Renaissance Pendant Necklaces

    Materials

    Silver, Gilt Metal

  • Couture 1937-40 ElsaSchiaparelli MarcelVertes HarlequinDuck GlazedCeramic Brooch
    By Elsa Schiaparelli
    Located in Chicago, IL
    Between the first ad campaign that legendary fashion designer Elsa Schiaparelli (1890-1973) commissioned from internationally-admired Paris-based Hungarian-born multimedia artist Marcel Vertes (1895-1961) for her blockbuster perfume "Shocking" in 1937, and in 1940 when they left France after launching her perfume "Sleeping" shortly before the Nazi occupation during WWII, the illustrator-cum-ceramist distinctly handmade in Paris, while traditional materials for couture costume-jewelry were scarce, this whimsical red-glazed ceramic brooch depicting a duck holding a "wet" umbrella dripped with turquoise and a bit of black glaze. Significantly, the brooch-pin trombone clasp, the long-pronged gilt frame, and the text stamped on its back plate "Made In France" match a similarly sized glazed-ceramic brooch of a decoratively-chained bear that was published in the book Bijoux (page 146). The author Deanna Farenti Cera dated that likewise unbranded unsigned brooch to 1938 when it was commissioned for one of Schiaparelli's fashion shows themed "Circus". The invitation to that show, which was illustrated with circus characters and performing animals by Vertes' Parisian peer Christian Berard, included a domestic white duck--notably not holding nor wearing a fashion accessory. Unusually, the fashion designer had commissioned couture umbrellas from other artisans in the 1930s--a couple of which were acquired by TheMet. Another relevant Met acquisition of a Schiaparelli couture...
    Category

    Vintage 1930s French Artisan Brooches

    Materials

    Gold, Yellow Gold, Gilt Metal

  • Couture 1930s CocoChanel LinaBaretti SatinBlackCamellias PaveCrystals Gold Set
    By Chanel
    Located in Chicago, IL
    This rare signed couture set of pave-crystal and gold-plated brooch and earrings from the Art Deco period is marked in the manner of one-off costume jewelry commissioned...
    Category

    Vintage 1930s French Art Deco Brooches

    Materials

    Crystal, Gold, Gold Plate, Silver

  • Couture CocoChanel Byzantine ThePurpleHeart PearlAmethystQuartz GoldMedallion
    By Chanel
    Located in Chicago, IL
    During the ArtDeco period when Gabriel "Coco" Chanel was at her peak as a Parisian couture fashion-designer in the early 1930s, this antique one-of-a-kind handcrafted gem-fringed and gilt-chain medallion brooch with trombone clasp was commissioned to accessorize one of her clothing designs. Marked only "FRANCE" like some early 1930s Chanel couture jewelry (without a brand stamp until the 1950s), its artistic origin is most likely from ornate organic-form sketches by her favorite parurer Fulco di Verdura. The Sicilian duke began creating fabric patterns for Chanel in 1927, which shortly expanded to fine jewelry beginning with custom pieces for herself. These include the iconic Byzantine-influenced gem-adorned cuffs referencing the Maltese military-cross, which the French designer can often be seen wearing in circa-1930s photos. This bright yellow-gold brooch suits goldsmith Verdura's early anti-Art-Deco aesthetic that was considered a radical departure from 1920s silver-tone jewelry, which otherwise featured linear geometric designs or figurative representation. The softly-shaped deconstructed gem-bouquet mixes amethyst and rose-quartz beads with natural Keshi pearls and intricate tiny gilt leaves, which are wired to a Baroque-motif open-work frame that dangles another gem surrounded by a thick gilt-rope halo. Notably, Verdura is credited with re-introducing since Victorian times the rope motif to jewelry. Since 1930, Verdura's unique style was influenced by travels with Chanel to explore Byzantine art, Baroque architecture, and exotic flora-and-fauna among his native Italian aristocratic estate. The legendary fashion-editor Diane Vreeland and American entertainment-stars were among the first Chanel clients to acquire couture real-gem-adorned jewelry made by Verdura, while one of the two brooches treasured by Vreeland was titled "Theodora". See our photo of the Byzantine mosaic of Empress Theodora, whose image wearing many teardrop pearls above her chest and surrounded by a golden halo seems to be the inspiration for this brooch. As one of the most important modern-design collaborations, Chanel's close relationship with Verdura lasted largely-undocumented years in Paris, until he launched his first outside jewelry venture with a Hollywood designer-boutique after emigrating to the United States in 1934. By 1939 as a financially-backed in-demand goldsmith, he founded the namesake jewelry-company Verdura in NYC. After he retired in 1973, the brand continued to operate without him with different owners. Given the duo's designs that played with historic and military references, Chanel's couture commission for this purple medallion may have been sparked in the early 1930s when the internationally-new...
    Category

    Vintage 1930s French Brooches

    Materials

    Amethyst, Pearl, Quartz, Gold, Gilt Metal, Yellow Gold

  • Antique Art&Crafts FiligreeGoldFill ScrollingTwisted DanglingHearts Shell Brooch
    Located in Chicago, IL
    Epitomizing the organic subjects and hand-craftsmanship spanning the Arts-&-Crafts to Art-Nouveau movements that were led in The United States by Louis Comfort Tiffany, this gifted o...
    Category

    Antique Late 19th Century American Arts and Crafts Brooches

    Materials

    Chalcedony, Coral, Turquoise, Gold-filled

You May Also Like
  • Certified Red Coral, Icy Apple Green Jade & Diamond Koi Fish Pendant and Brooch
    Located in Hong Kong, HK
    Please check out the HD video! This item can be used as a pendant or a brooch! This is a very well carved natural red coral Koi fish matched with glowing icy apple green jade and diamonds. There are 2 certificates, one for the natural red coral and one for the natural jadeite. The lines and details of this piece are outstanding. This natural jadeite Jade used...
    Category

    2010s Hong Kong Pendant Necklaces

    Materials

    Coral, Diamond, White Diamond, Jade, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold

  • Certified Red Coral Icy Apple Green Jade and Diamond Koi Fish Pendant and Brooch
    Located in Hong Kong, HK
    Please check out the HD video! This item can be used as a pendant or a brooch! This is a very well carved natural red coral Koi fish matched with glowing icy apple green jade and diamonds. There are 2 certificates, one for the natural red coral and one for the natural jadeite. The lines and details of this piece are outstanding. This natural jadeite Jade used...
    Category

    2010s Hong Kong Pendant Necklaces

    Materials

    Coral, Diamond, White Diamond, Jade, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold

  • Natural Australian 47.28ct Boulder Opal and Diamond Pendant Brooch, 18K Gold
    By Renata Bernard
    Located in Sydney, AU
    Seductive and enchanting, "Forest Nymph" can be worn as a dazzling pendant or a dramatic brooch. Flowing gold and diamond serpentines clasp a sizeable 47....
    Category

    2010s Australian Contemporary Brooches

    Materials

    Diamond, Opal, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

  • Platinum and Diamond Pendant / Brooch
    Located in Palm Springs, CA
    Vintage Italian platinum pendant convertible into a millilgrain fretwork brooch, set with 4.5 karats of diamonds / Made in Italy 1930s Length 6.5cm
    Category

    Early 20th Century Italian Pendant Necklaces

    Materials

    Diamond, Platinum

  • Van Cleef & Arpels Cosmos Diamond Brooch or Pendant
    By Van Cleef & Arpels
    Located in New York, NY
    An exclusive brooch from the famous 'Cosmos' collection, created by Van Cleef & Arpels. Composed of four heart-shaped petals, Cosmos™ is inspired by one of VCA signature flowers and ...
    Category

    21st Century and Contemporary French Pendant Necklaces

    Materials

    Diamond, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

  • Antique 18K Dragonfly Brooch, Circa 1880-1910
    Located in Old Tappan, NJ
    Antique, circa 1880-1910, 18K yellow gold and silver handmade dragonfly brooch/pendant slide with sapphire, opal, ruby and diamond. The plique-a-jour wings are pale blue/green ename...
    Category

    Antique 1890s Unknown Art Nouveau Brooches

    Materials

    Diamond, Opal, Ruby, Sapphire, 18k Gold, Silver

Recently Viewed

View All