{"id":430385,"date":"2025-08-21T06:54:49","date_gmt":"2025-08-21T10:54:49","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/?p=430385"},"modified":"2025-08-21T06:54:55","modified_gmt":"2025-08-21T10:54:55","slug":"prada-coat","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/fr\/prada-coat\/","title":{"rendered":"Comment faire passer la Tendance du soutien-gorge transparent \u00e0 l’automne ? Avec ce manteau perl\u00e9 de Prada"},"content":{"rendered":"
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\"D\u00e9fil\u00e9<\/a>
Un mannequin porte un manteau en laine avec des perles en forme de soutien-gorge<\/a> lors du d\u00e9fil\u00e9 printemps-\u00e9t\u00e9 2014 de Prada<\/a> pendant la Semaine de la Mode de Milan. Photo par D\u00e9fil\u00e9\/Getty Images <\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

En 2014, Miuccia Prada<\/a> s’est int\u00e9ress\u00e9e \u00e0 l’un des plus grands soutiens de la Mode : le soutien-gorge.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Les sous-v\u00eatements en tant que v\u00eatements d’ext\u00e9rieur n’\u00e9taient pas un concept nouveau \u00e0 l’\u00e9poque. Jean Paul Gaultier<\/a> s’est fait le champion des sous-v\u00eatements en tant que pr\u00eat-\u00e0-porter avec ses designs embl\u00e9matiques en forme de c\u00f4ne dans les ann\u00e9es 1980. Vivienne Westwood<\/a> a mis les corsets au premier plan de la haute couture punk dans les ann\u00e9es 1990. Et le concept est toujours d’actualit\u00e9 : Pas plus tard que ce printemps, les d\u00e9buts de Soie chez Givenchy<\/a> comprenaient des robes \u00e0 soutien-gorge en r\u00e9sille de soie. Cependant, la collection printemps 2014<\/a> de Prada<\/a>a accompli quelque chose de diff\u00e9rent en faisant des sous-v\u00eatements un \u00e9l\u00e9ment indissociable des v\u00eatements d’ext\u00e9rieur. Exemple concret : ce manteau de tailleur(sans danger pour le travail) avec des perles en forme de soutien-gorge<\/a>. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

S’inspirant d’un manteau militaire, ce v\u00eatement, propos\u00e9 sur 1stDibs par Resurrection Vintage<\/a>, est confectionn\u00e9 en laine vert arm\u00e9e et pr\u00e9sente deux poches surdimensionn\u00e9es sur le devant, des brides aux poignets et trois gros boutons recouverts de laine. Il est difficile de ne pas remarquer la tournure prise par Prada sur le manteau classique. La poitrine est orn\u00e9e d’une \u00e9blouissante tapisserie de perles, de cristaux et de paillettes en plastique en forme de bonnets de soutien-gorge. Poursuivant l’illusion, de larges bretelles de broderie \u00e0 la texture complexe courbent les \u00e9paules et le milieu du dos. La palette de couleurs sobres camoufle presque l’audace du Design, qui est l’un des plus subtils et des plus faciles \u00e0 porter de la collection. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\"Manteau<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Manteau<\/a><\/figure>\n
Des perles sur le devant et le dos du manteau<\/a> cr\u00e9ent l’illusion d’un soutien-gorge noir sur la laine vert arm\u00e9e.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Le d\u00e9fil\u00e9 d’o\u00f9 provient le manteau \u00e9tait nettement orient\u00e9 vers la poitrine. Tous les v\u00eatements, des manteaux aux robes de cocktail, \u00e9taient embellis de bonnets et de harnais perl\u00e9s, color\u00e9s et sculpt\u00e9s. La plupart de ces pi\u00e8ces de poitrine \u00e9taient accompagn\u00e9es de portraits de femmes, certains stylis\u00e9s \u00e0 la mani\u00e8re des s\u00e9rigraphies graphiques du Pop art<\/a>, d’autres rendus avec un r\u00e9alisme presque nouveau \u00e0 la Katzian. Chez certains Designateurs, ces motifs pourraient \u00eatre consid\u00e9r\u00e9s comme des hommages f\u00e9ministes superficiels, mais pas chez Miuccia Prada. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Compte tenu de sa prolifique carri\u00e8re dans le secteur de la mode, nombreux sont ceux qui ne savent pas que Miuccia Prada est titulaire d’un doctorat en sciences politiques de l’universit\u00e9 de Milan. Elle a \u00e9galement \u00e9t\u00e9 membre du Parti communiste italien et de l’Union des femmes italiennes, et elle est une fervente d\u00e9fenseuse de la position des femmes dans le monde de la mode et au-del\u00e0. En 1978, elle a repris l’entreprise familiale des mains de sa m\u00e8re, Maria Bianchi, et elle jouit d’une anciennet\u00e9 consid\u00e9rable parmi les quelques cr\u00e9atrices actuellement \u00e0 la t\u00eate de marques de luxe europ\u00e9ennes. Prada a l’intelligence, la position et l’audace n\u00e9cessaires pour faire des d\u00e9clarations tranch\u00e9es dans son travail. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

La fusion d’un soutien-gorge et d’un pardessus est un clin d’\u0153il insolent \u00e0 un \u00e9l\u00e9ment essentiel, g\u00e9n\u00e9ralement invisible et m\u00e9connu, de l’habillement f\u00e9minin, mais \u00e0 y regarder de plus pr\u00e8s, c’est bien plus que cela. Plut\u00f4t que de chercher \u00e0 l\u00e9gitimer la lingerie en tant que v\u00eatement autonome ou de cr\u00e9er des suggestions all\u00e9chantes par le biais de superpositions pures, le Design subversif r\u00e9unit les formes des v\u00eatements de dessous et de dessus sur le m\u00eame plan, leur donnant une visibilit\u00e9 \u00e9gale. Prada glorifie et orne le soutien-gorge comme une couronne, source de pouvoir pour celle qui le porte.<\/p>\n\n\n\t

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Achetez Prada sur 1stDibs<\/h3>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\t\t
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\n\t\t\t\t\t\tPRADA 2004 Runway Manteau d’officier long en laine bleu marine \u00e0 \u0153illets en cuir IT36 XXS\t\t\t\t\t<\/p>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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\n\t\t\t\t\t\tManteau de soir\u00e9e Prada avec ornements \u00e0 franges en plastique et manches en plumes, FW 2007\t\t\t\t\t<\/p>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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\n\t\t\t\t\t\tPrada 2016 Manteau FR42 Ecru Gabardine Belted Mackintosh Trench Coat UK14 US12\t\t\t\t\t<\/p>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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\n\t\t\t\t\t\tNina Ricci – Manteau cocon en maille de laine grise, c.1970\t\t\t\t\t<\/p>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n\t","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

En 2014, Miuccia Prada s’est int\u00e9ress\u00e9e \u00e0 l’un des plus grands soutiens de la Mode : le soutien-gorge. Les sous-v\u00eatements en tant que v\u00eatements d’ext\u00e9rieur n’\u00e9taient pas un concept nouveau \u00e0 l’\u00e9poque. Jean Paul Gaultier s’est fait le champion des sous-v\u00eatements en tant que pr\u00eat-\u00e0-porter avec ses designs embl\u00e9matiques en forme de c\u00f4ne dans les […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":293,"featured_media":430147,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"apple_news_api_created_at":"","apple_news_api_id":"","apple_news_api_modified_at":"","apple_news_api_revision":"","apple_news_api_share_url":"","apple_news_cover_media_provider":"image","apple_news_coverimage":0,"apple_news_coverimage_caption":"","apple_news_cover_video_id":0,"apple_news_cover_video_url":"","apple_news_cover_embedwebvideo_url":"","apple_news_is_hidden":"","apple_news_is_paid":"","apple_news_is_preview":"","apple_news_is_sponsored":"","apple_news_maturity_rating":"","apple_news_metadata":"\"\"","apple_news_pullquote":"","apple_news_pullquote_position":"","apple_news_slug":"","apple_news_sections":[],"apple_news_suppress_video_url":false,"apple_news_use_image_component":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[15568847,15568808],"tags":[15572110,15572106,15572109,15572107,15572108,15572111],"dibs-categories":[15565982],"dibs-designs":[],"dibs-styles":[],"dibs-creators":[15566523],"dibs-sellers":[15572057],"class_list":["post-430385","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-lobsession-de-la-semaine","category-mode-fr","tag-2014-fr","tag-milan-fr","tag-miuccia-prada-fr","tag-mode","tag-prada-fr","tag-resurrection-vintage-fr","dibs-categories-dibs-v","dibs-creators-dibs-prada","dibs-sellers-dibs-resurrection-vintage"],"acf":{"banner_ad_end_date":"","banner_ad_image":false,"banner_ad_start_date":"","banner_ad_url":"","show_related_items_footer_popup":false,"post_format":"article","show_date":true,"slideshows":false,"show_prefix":true,"subtitle":"Ce Design de la collection printemps 2014 met une touche impertinente sur les v\u00eatements d'ext\u00e9rieur. ","prefix_text":"Contenu sponsoris\u00e9","contributors":{"hide_byline":false,"columnist":[{"ID":411349,"post_author":"293","post_date":"2023-08-17 20:19:36","post_date_gmt":"2023-08-18 00:19:36","post_content":"\n

John Villa is the fashion specialist on 1stDibs\u2019 Art and Design Research team, managing the curation and vetting of the marketplace\u2019s fashion category. He holds a master\u2019s degree in art history and visual culture from the University of Nottingham, but he now focuses on archival fashion history and the contemporary luxury market. Villa maintains an active presence on social media, where his fashion commentary and critiques have gained him more than 125,000 followers across TikTok and Youtube. In addition to his contributions to The Study<\/em>, he also appears regularly on 1stDibs\u2019s social media pages, presenting engaging video content on fashion history and trends. He is based in New York City.<\/p>\n","post_title":"John Villa","post_excerpt":"","post_status":"publish","comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","post_password":"","post_name":"john-villa","to_ping":"","pinged":"","post_modified":"2025-10-14 09:48:51","post_modified_gmt":"2025-10-14 13:48:51","post_content_filtered":"","post_parent":0,"guid":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/?post_type=contributors&p=411349","menu_order":0,"post_type":"contributors","post_mime_type":"","comment_count":"0","filter":"raw"}],"photographer":"","custom_byline":false},"interstitial_banners":false,"banner_ad_dealer_id":"","banner_ad_shortcode":""},"dibs_designs_tags":null,"dibs_sellers_tags":["dibs-resurrection-vintage"],"dibs_creators_tags":["dibs-prada"],"dibs_styles_tags":null,"dibs_categories_tags":["dibs-v"],"featured_image_url":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/PradaCoat2014-copy-640x450.jpeg","post_title":"Comment faire passer la Tendance du soutien-gorge transparent \u00e0 l’automne ? 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