{"id":118643,"date":"2017-05-23T18:11:09","date_gmt":"2017-05-23T22:11:09","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/?p=118643"},"modified":"2024-10-16T07:32:51","modified_gmt":"2024-10-16T11:32:51","slug":"alexander-mcqueen-patterns","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/alexander-mcqueen-patterns\/","title":{"rendered":"Decoding Alexander McQueen\u2019s Favorite Patterns"},"content":{"rendered":"
\"Models

Models walk the runway in herringbone ensembles at Alexander McQueen<\/a>‘s Autumn\/Winter 2009 fashion show during Paris Fashion Week. Photo by Michel Dufour\/WireImage<\/p><\/div>\n

<\/p>\n

British fashion designer Lee Alexander McQueen, the original creative engine behind the Alexander McQueen label<\/a>, was beloved for his expert tailoring and theatrical runway shows. After his suicide in 2010, fans left tributes to the man and his talents outside Alexander McQueen boutiques worldwide. Record-breaking crowds visited the posthumous retrospective of the designer\u2019s work at the Metropolitan Museum of Art<\/a> in New York City and the Victoria & Albert<\/a> in London.<\/p>\n

That exhibition, titled “Savage Beauty,”<\/a> presented McQueen\u2019s fashion creations as art. And curator Andrew Bolton placed McQueen within the Romantic tradition. \u201cLike Byron, Beethoven and Delacroix,\u201d Bolton wrote in the exhibition catalogue, \u201cMcQueen is an exemplar of the Romantic individual, the hero-artist who staunchly followed the dictates of his inspiration.\u201d <\/span><\/p>\n

McQueen\u2019s inspirations came from many quarters \u2014 film, music, current events, history, his heritage and fashions of the past. His runway presentations were not just displays of clothing but were personal expressions of the zeitgeist, often touching on our cultural anxieties and concerns. McQueen\u2019s own thoughts and feelings about love, death, gender, genocide, colonialism, global warming and the extinction of species all appear in his pieces.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cWhat you see in the work is the person himself. And my heart is in my work,\u201d McQueen told Harper\u2019s Bazaar<\/em> in 2007<\/a>. It is perhaps this heart, and the heart\u2019s exposure, that drew the crowds and made McQueen creations both popular and emotionally resonant<\/a>. Because the work was personal and thus layered with feeling, the motifs \u2014 decorative embellishments and fabric choices \u2014 have meaning. In other words, in McQueen\u2019s oeuvre, plaid is more than simply a pattern.<\/span><\/p>\n

\n

Tartan<\/strong><\/h2>\n
\"Men's

Men’s tartan plaid kimono, Autumn\/Winter 2006. Offered by Resurrection<\/a><\/p><\/div>\n

The use of tartan<\/a> references the fraught history of Scotland<\/a> and the designer\u2019s Scottish heritage. The provocative Autumn\/Winter 1995\u201396 collection, called \u201cHighland Rape<\/a>,\u201d saw McQueen\u2019s first employment of this plaid. The presentation of the collection elicited high emotions. Was McQueen expressing misogyny? Or was he commenting on Scotland\u2019s history? \u201cWidows of Culloden,\u201d the Autumn\/Winter 2006\u20137 collection, which cites the last battle of the 1745 Jacobite Rising, featured this tartan to great effect. McQueen created a range of ensembles, from outfits resembling traditional highland dress to Victorian-style ball gowns.<\/span><\/p>\n

\n

Houndstooth<\/strong><\/h2>\n
\"Houndstooth

Houndstooth check cocoon coat, Autumn\/Winter 2009. Offered by Resurrection<\/a><\/p><\/div>\n

Although houndstooth plaid<\/a> probably originated in Scotland in the 19th century, the pattern is strongly identified with designer Christian Dior<\/a> and his New Look, which debuted in 1947<\/a>. Dior even used the jagged checks on the packaging of his perfume Miss Dior. For a 2009 runway presentation with a recycling theme, McQueen created exaggerated versions of iconic 20th-century fashions, including Dior\u2019s New Look outfits. Note that McQueen has enlarged the typical size of the pattern, creating a bold, graphic statement.<\/p>\n

\"Alexander

The Horn of Plenty egg chairs, Autumn\/Winter 2009. Offered by Aub\u00e9ry<\/a><\/p><\/div>\n

That same year, McQueen produced a limited-edition houndstooth version of the egg chair <\/a>that he\u2019d originally created for his New York and London boutiques. The checkered chairs bear another McQueen signature: skull-shaped zipper pulls<\/a>.<\/p>\n

\n

Skulls<\/strong><\/h2>\n
\"Cream<\/a>

Cream and red maple leaf Toronto Olympics limited edition scarf, 21st century. Offered by LGS<\/a><\/p><\/div>\n

McQueen used skulls (and bones)<\/a> throughout his work, starting with his 1992 graduate collection, which focused on Jack the Ripper and his victims. The skull, of course, is a memento mori<\/a>, a reminder of death<\/a>. McQueen frequently juxtaposed the glamour of the catwalk with intimations of our coming doom. McQueen\u2019s skull scarf<\/a> appeared in his Spring 2003 collection. Inspired by the 1986 Roland Joff\u00e9 film The Mission<\/i>, the collection featured pirate looks and a shipwreck theme. The scarf soon became a must-have for celebrities and tastemakers, and it was reproduced by counterfeiters worldwide. The skull-clasp evening bag<\/a> has also become an iconic McQueen accessory<\/a>.<\/p>\n

\"Hardcase<\/a>

Hardcase embroidered skull evening clutch, 21st century. Offered by One of a Kind<\/a><\/p><\/div>\n

<\/h2>\n

Browse More Alexander McQueen<\/a><\/h2>\n
\n

Katherine Gleason<\/a> is the author of <\/em>Alexander McQueen: Evolution (Race Point Publishing).<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":219943,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"apple_news_api_created_at":"2024-10-14T23:04:19Z","apple_news_api_id":"7e59b5eb-b622-4776-8dcd-b93505194a9e","apple_news_api_modified_at":"2024-10-15T11:56:10Z","apple_news_api_revision":"AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAg==","apple_news_api_share_url":"https:\/\/apple.news\/Aflm167YiR3aNzbk1BRlKng","apple_news_cover_media_provider":"image","apple_news_coverimage":0,"apple_news_coverimage_caption":"","apple_news_cover_video_id":0,"apple_news_cover_video_url":"","apple_news_cover_embedwebvideo_url":"","apple_news_is_hidden":"","apple_news_is_paid":"","apple_news_is_preview":"","apple_news_is_sponsored":"","apple_news_maturity_rating":"","apple_news_metadata":"\"\"","apple_news_pullquote":"","apple_news_pullquote_position":"","apple_news_slug":"","apple_news_sections":[],"apple_news_suppress_video_url":false,"apple_news_use_image_component":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[15522063],"tags":[8343213,15523913,9528533,15523863,300943,15523903,15135413,15523873,15523833,13555973,15523843,120,15523853,15523823,15523893,298,15523883],"dibs-categories":[],"dibs-designs":[],"dibs-styles":[],"dibs-creators":[],"dibs-sellers":[],"class_list":["post-118643","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-fashion","tag-20th-century","tag-20th-century-fashion","tag-alexander-mcqueen","tag-andrew-bolton","tag-christian-dior","tag-christian-dior-new-look","tag-egg-chair","tag-highland-rape-collection","tag-houndstooth","tag-katherine-gleason","tag-plaid","tag-runway","tag-skulls","tag-tartan","tag-the-horn-of-plenty-collection","tag-vintage-fashion","tag-widows-of-culloden-collection"],"acf":{"subtitle":"Why 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