{"id":221763,"date":"2017-06-21T19:50:56","date_gmt":"2017-06-21T23:50:56","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/?p=221763"},"modified":"2024-11-14T07:34:12","modified_gmt":"2024-11-14T12:34:12","slug":"art-deco-jewelry","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/art-deco-jewelry\/","title":{"rendered":"From King Tut to Flappers, What&#8217;s behind the Look of Art Deco Jewelry"},"content":{"rendered":"<div id=\"attachment_224733\" style=\"width: 590px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/art\/paintings\/style\/art-deco\/\"><img decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-224733\" class=\"wp-image-224733 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/Absinthe_pulp_l.jpg\" alt=\"An Art Deco-era painting called 'Absinthe' by Lejaren Hiller (1928)\" width=\"580\" height=\"545\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/Absinthe_pulp_l.jpg 580w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/Absinthe_pulp_l-372x350.jpg 372w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/Absinthe_pulp_l-120x113.jpg 120w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 580px) 100vw, 580px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-224733\" class=\"wp-caption-text\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/art\/paintings\/portrait-paintings\/lejaren-hiller-absinthe\/id-a_1144063\/\"><em>Absinthe<\/em>, 1928, by Lejaren Hiller<\/a><\/p><\/div>\n<p><!--more--><\/p>\n<p>The Roaring Twenties were loud. The decade was defined by advances in technology, economic prosperity, artistic rebellion and of course, the flapper. Sporting a bob haircut, a cylindrical black dress and plenty of <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/jewelry\/style\/art-deco\/\">Art Deco jewelry<\/a>, she held a fan in one hand and a cigarette holder in another, dancing the night away at a jazz club. The party, of course, came to a screeching halt when the stock market crashed in 1929. Yet the <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/jewelry\/style\/art-deco\/\">Art Deco<\/a> period, encompassing the 1920s and \u201930s, ushered in a <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/art-deco-vs-art-nouveau\/\">very distinct look<\/a> in <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/jewelry\/\">jewelry<\/a> design.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_226253\" style=\"width: 510px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/jewelry\/bracelets\/style\/art-deco\/\"><img decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-226253\" class=\"wp-image-226253 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/03671_l.jpg\" alt=\"Platinum Art Deco cuff bracelet set with sapphires and diamonds, ca. 1930\" width=\"500\" height=\"500\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/03671_l.jpg 500w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/03671_l-350x350.jpg 350w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/03671_l-120x120.jpg 120w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/03671_l-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/03671_l-216x216.jpg 216w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 500px) 100vw, 500px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-226253\" class=\"wp-caption-text\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/jewelry\/bracelets\/cuff-bracelets\/art-deco-sapphire-diamond-platinum-cuff-bracelet\/id-j_304052\/\">Art Deco sapphire, diamond and platinum cuff bracelet, ca. 1930<\/a><\/p><\/div>\n<p>There were many influences on Art Deco jewelry that actually began to take shape about a decade earlier. In 1909, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.vam.ac.uk\/articles\/diaghilev-and-the-ballets-russes\">Serge Diaghilev brought the Ballet Russes<\/a> to Paris, and women went wild for the company&#8217;s exotic and vibrant costumes It&#8217;s no wonder, then, that <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/jewelry\/stone\/jade\/\">jade<\/a>, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/jewelry\/stone\/lapis-lazuli\/\">lapis<\/a>, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/jewelry\/stone\/coral\/\">coral<\/a>, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/jewelry\/stone\/turquoise\/\">turquoise<\/a> and other bright gemstones became all the rage. There already existed a fascination with the East, particularly China and Japan, and motifs consisting of fans and masks started to show up in jewelry.<\/p>\n<p>However, the event that had the greatest influence on Deco was the excavation of <a href=\"https:\/\/www.smithsonianmag.com\/history\/how-howard-carter-discovered-king-tuts-golden-tomb-180981052\/\">the tomb of King Tut in 1922<\/a>. When the world saw what was hidden in Tut\u2019s burial chamber, it sent just about everyone into a frenzy. Pierre Cartier wrote in 1923 that \u201cthe discovery of the tomb will bring some sweeping changes in fashion jewelry.\u201d And he couldn\u2019t have been more right. \u201cEgyptomania\u201d left an indelible mark on all of the major jewelry houses, from <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/creators\/cartier\/\">Cartier<\/a> to <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/creators\/van-cleef-and-arpels\/\">Van Cleef &amp; Arpels<\/a>, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/creators\/boucheron\/\">Boucheron<\/a> and <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/creators\/georges-fouquet\/jewelry\/\">Georges Fouquet<\/a>.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_226193\" style=\"width: 510px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/jewelry\/brooches\/style\/art-deco\/\"><img decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-226193\" class=\"wp-image-226193 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/cartier_clip_04112016_3_org_l.jpg\" alt=\"Cartier diamond and platinum Art Deco dress clip, 1920s\" width=\"500\" height=\"500\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/cartier_clip_04112016_3_org_l.jpg 500w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/cartier_clip_04112016_3_org_l-350x350.jpg 350w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/cartier_clip_04112016_3_org_l-120x120.jpg 120w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/cartier_clip_04112016_3_org_l-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/cartier_clip_04112016_3_org_l-216x216.jpg 216w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 500px) 100vw, 500px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-226193\" class=\"wp-caption-text\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/jewelry\/brooches\/brooches\/1920s-cartier-diamond-platinum-art-deco-dress-clip-worn-joan-collins\/id-j_1477373\/\">Cartier diamond and platinum Art Deco dress clip, 1920s<\/a><\/p><\/div>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Art Deco jewelry is by and large \u201cwhite jewelry.\u201d White metals, primarily <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/jewelry\/metal\/platinum\/\">platinum<\/a>, were favored over <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/jewelry\/metal\/yellow-gold\/\">yellow gold<\/a>. Platinum was first used in jewelry at the end of the 19th century, and with the advancement in technology that allowed platinum to be easily worked, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/edwardian-jewelry\/\">it remained popular<\/a> through the <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/jewelry\/style\/edwardian\/\">Edwardian period<\/a>. However, it became fashionable again with the discovery of the world&#8217;s largest platinum deposit in the Merensky Reef in northeast South Africa in 1924. <\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Platinum, which could be manipulated to create fine and durable settings that, unlike <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/jewelry\/metal\/sterling-silver\/\">silver<\/a>, did not tarnish. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Around this time, the technology for diamond cutting also improved, so jewelers were able to achieve various <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/gemstone-cuts\/\">geometric cuts<\/a>. This was an opportune moment to create beautiful jewelry that was inspired by <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/art\/style\/cubist\/\">Cubism<\/a>, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/art\/style\/futurist\/\">Futurism<\/a> and the Machine Aesthetic. Art Deco is <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/introspective-magazine\/american-art-deco-at-wichita-museum\/\">known for its clean lines<\/a>, and simple shapes were juxtaposed to create beautiful compositions. Pav\u00e9 settings also became popular during this time. (The term refers to <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/jewelry\/stone\/diamond\/\">diamonds<\/a> that are set so closely together that they create an illusion of a \u201cpaved\u201d surface where the setting becomes invisible.)<\/span><\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_226163\" style=\"width: 510px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/jewelry\/bracelets\/retro-bracelets\/art-deco-coral-onyx-diamond-gold-bracelet\/id-j_1666273\/\"><img decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-226163\" class=\"wp-image-226163 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/30_1324339690_2_l.jpg\" alt=\"Art Deco coral, onyx, diamond and gold bracelet, 1930s\" width=\"500\" height=\"500\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/30_1324339690_2_l.jpg 500w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/30_1324339690_2_l-350x350.jpg 350w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/30_1324339690_2_l-120x120.jpg 120w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/30_1324339690_2_l-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/30_1324339690_2_l-216x216.jpg 216w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 500px) 100vw, 500px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-226163\" class=\"wp-caption-text\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/jewelry\/bracelets\/retro-bracelets\/art-deco-coral-onyx-diamond-gold-bracelet\/id-j_1666273\/\">Art Deco coral, onyx, diamond and gold bracelet, 1930s<\/a><\/p><\/div>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">While a lot of jewelry from this period was black and white \u2014 the black coming from the use of <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/jewelry\/stone\/onyx\/\">onyx<\/a> or black enamel and the white from rock crystal and diamonds \u2014 there is plenty of color in Art Deco jewelry. A perfect accent to diamonds in platinum settings were <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/jewelry\/stone\/sapphire\/\">blue sapphires<\/a>, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/jewelry\/stone\/emerald\/\">emeralds<\/a> and <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/jewelry\/stone\/ruby\/\">rubies<\/a>, and these stones were also used in combination with each other.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Many designers employed coral, jade and <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/jewelry\/stone\/lapis-lazuli\/\">lapis lazuli<\/a>, too. In fact, some of the most important avant-garde jewelers of the period, like <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/creators\/jean-despres\/\">Jean Despr\u00e9s<\/a> and Jean Fouquet (son of Georges Fouquet), would combine white gold with ebony and <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/jewelry\/stone\/malachite\/\">malachite<\/a> for a jolt of color.<\/span><\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_226223\" style=\"width: 510px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/jewelry\/rings\/style\/art-deco\/\"><img decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-226223\" class=\"wp-image-226223 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/R17258a_org_org_l.jpg\" alt=\"Jean Despre\u0301s Art Deco turquoise, silver and gold ring, 1930s\" width=\"500\" height=\"500\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/R17258a_org_org_l.jpg 500w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/R17258a_org_org_l-350x350.jpg 350w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/R17258a_org_org_l-120x120.jpg 120w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/R17258a_org_org_l-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/R17258a_org_org_l-216x216.jpg 216w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 500px) 100vw, 500px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-226223\" class=\"wp-caption-text\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/jewelry\/rings\/cocktail-rings\/jean-despres-art-deco-turquoise-silver-gold-ring\/id-j_1026412\/\">Jean Despre\u0301s Art Deco turquoise, silver and gold ring, 1930s<\/a><\/p><\/div>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Designers also incorporated machine parts, such as ball bearings, into their designs. For them, jewelry was more than adornment; it was part of the art world. <\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">In his 1931 book, <\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Jewelry and Gold<\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">, Fouquet fils wrote that &#8220;jewelry and gold pieces must be works of art while also responding to the same needs as industrial objects.&#8221; (<a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/creators\/philip-johnson\/furniture\/\">Philip Johnson<\/a>\u2019s 1934 exhibition, called &#8220;Machine Art,&#8221; at the <a href=\"https:\/\/www.moma.org\/\">Museum of Modern Art<\/a>, featured ball bearings).<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Fouquet was well known in the world of jewelry, and many of his designs were inspired by <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/furniture\/folk-art\/tribal-art\/origin\/african\/\">African art<\/a>, another major influence on the Art Deco period. <\/span><\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_226203\" style=\"width: 510px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-226203\" class=\"wp-image-226203 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/964473_l.jpg\" alt=\"Van Cleef &amp; Arpels diamond and platinum clip brooch, 1920s\" width=\"500\" height=\"500\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/964473_l.jpg 500w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/964473_l-350x350.jpg 350w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/964473_l-120x120.jpg 120w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/964473_l-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/964473_l-216x216.jpg 216w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 500px) 100vw, 500px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-226203\" class=\"wp-caption-text\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/jewelry\/brooches\/brooches\/van-cleef-arpels-paris-double-diamond-platinum-clips\/id-j_964473\/\">Van Cleef &amp; Arpels diamond and platinum clip brooch, 1920s<\/a><\/p><\/div>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">A lot of the jewelry produced during this time nodded to current <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/fashion\/\">fashion<\/a> trends, and women often accessorized their accessories. The <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/fashion\/accessories\/cloche-hats\/\">cloche hat<\/a> was often accented with geometric <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/jewelry\/brooches\/stone\/diamond\/\">diamond brooches<\/a> or <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/buy\/double-clip-brooch\/\">double-clip brooches<\/a>. Backless <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/fashion\/clothing\/evening-dresses\/\">evening dresses<\/a> looked fabulous with <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/buy\/sautoir-necklace\/\">sautoir necklaces<\/a>, and long <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/jewelry\/necklaces\/stone\/pearl\/\">pearl necklaces<\/a> that ended with tassels, popular during the Edwardian period, were favored by women everywhere, including <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/creators\/chanel\/\">Coco Chanel<\/a>.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Mademoiselle Chanel can also be thanked for popularizing long <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/jewelry\/earrings\/\">earrings<\/a>. The French fashion designer <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/introspective-magazine\/chanel\/\">favored the masculine look<\/a>, referred to as<\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> la gar\u00e7onne<\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">, and made boyish haircuts a fad. What better way to show off long earrings than with short hair?<\/span><\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_226243\" style=\"width: 510px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/jewelry\/earrings\/style\/art-deco\/\"><img decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-226243\" class=\"wp-image-226243 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/Tiffany_Edwardian_Long_Diamond_Screw_Back_Earrings_l.jpg\" alt=\"Tiffany &amp; Co. Art Deco diamond teardrop earrings, ca. 1920\" width=\"500\" height=\"500\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/Tiffany_Edwardian_Long_Diamond_Screw_Back_Earrings_l.jpg 500w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/Tiffany_Edwardian_Long_Diamond_Screw_Back_Earrings_l-350x350.jpg 350w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/Tiffany_Edwardian_Long_Diamond_Screw_Back_Earrings_l-120x120.jpg 120w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/Tiffany_Edwardian_Long_Diamond_Screw_Back_Earrings_l-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/Tiffany_Edwardian_Long_Diamond_Screw_Back_Earrings_l-216x216.jpg 216w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 500px) 100vw, 500px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-226243\" class=\"wp-caption-text\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/jewelry\/earrings\/dangle-earrings\/tiffany-co-art-deco-diamond-teardrop-earrings-325ctw\/id-j_2102273\/\">Tiffany &amp; Co. Art Deco diamond teardrop earrings, ca. 1920<\/a><\/p><\/div>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Dresses with short sleeves required <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/jewelry\/bracelets\/bangles\/\">bangles<\/a> and flexible <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/jewelry\/bracelets\/stone\/diamond\/\">diamond-lined bracelets<\/a>, and while some women opted for single-strand diamonds on platinum, the most emblematic bracelets of the period are the heavy, wide types with a multitude of diamond cuts that created intricate patterns.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">In addition to bracelets, women wore <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/jewelry\/watches\/\">watches<\/a> of all kinds, from wristwatches to long-chained <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/buy\/pendant-watches\/\">pendant watches<\/a> to lapel watches. The <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/furniture\/decorative-objects\/clocks\/\">clock<\/a> became a popular <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/jewelry\/objets-dart-vertu\/\">objet d\u2019art<\/a>, with some of the most astounding creations being <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/creators\/cartier\/furniture\/decorative-objects\/clocks\/\">made by Cartier<\/a>.<\/span><\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_226283\" style=\"width: 510px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/jewelry\/rings\/cocktail-rings\/art-deco-diamond-sapphire-platinum-plaque-ring\/id-j_2510703\/\"><img decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-226283\" class=\"wp-image-226283 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/2510703_l.jpg\" alt=\"Art Deco diamond, sapphire and platinum plaque ring, ca. 1925\" width=\"500\" height=\"500\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/2510703_l.jpg 500w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/2510703_l-350x350.jpg 350w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/2510703_l-120x120.jpg 120w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/2510703_l-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/2510703_l-216x216.jpg 216w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 500px) 100vw, 500px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-226283\" class=\"wp-caption-text\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/jewelry\/rings\/cocktail-rings\/art-deco-diamond-sapphire-platinum-plaque-ring\/id-j_2510703\/\">Art Deco diamond, sapphire and platinum plaque ring, ca. 1925<\/a><\/p><\/div>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Finally, with the wrists, necks and ears covered, the only spot that needed to be dressed up <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/how-do-you-wear-a-cocktail-ring\/\">were the fingers<\/a>. Prohibition didn\u2019t really stop anyone from drinking in the 1920s, and whether they were entertaining at home or drinking in a speakeasy, women went gaga for <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/jewelry\/rings\/cocktail-rings\/\">cocktail rings<\/a>. In addition, cigarette holders, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/buy\/cigarette-cases\/\">cigarette cases<\/a> (even cigarette lighters with watches) and <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/fashion\/handbags-purses-bags\/evening-bags-minaudieres\/\">minaudi\u00e8res<\/a> \u2014 those small jewel-like evening bags \u2014 all served as canvases for jewelers.<\/span><\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_226263\" style=\"width: 510px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/creators\/mauboussin\/jewelry\/\"><img decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-226263\" class=\"wp-image-226263 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/2403643_l.jpg\" alt=\"Mauboussin Art Deco diamond and platinum brooch, 1929\" width=\"500\" height=\"500\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/2403643_l.jpg 500w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/2403643_l-350x350.jpg 350w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/2403643_l-120x120.jpg 120w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/2403643_l-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/2403643_l-216x216.jpg 216w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 500px) 100vw, 500px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-226263\" class=\"wp-caption-text\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/jewelry\/brooches\/brooches\/1920s-mauboussin-art-deco-diamond-platinum-brooch\/id-j_2403643\/\">Mauboussin Art Deco diamond and platinum brooch, 1929<\/a><\/p><\/div>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">As for the names to know, there were two categories of jewelers during the Deco period: the <em>b<\/em><\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><em>i<\/em>joutiers-artistes<\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> and the <em>b<\/em><\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">ijoutiers-joailliers. <\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">The former category included jewelers like <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/creators\/jean-despres\/jewelry\/\">Despr\u00e9s<\/a>, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/creators\/gerard-sandoz\/\">G\u00e9rard Sandoz<\/a>, Raymond Templier, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/creators\/rene-boivin\/\">Ren\u00e9 Boivin<\/a>, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/creators\/suzanne-belperron\/\">Suzanne Belperron<\/a> and Paul Brandt. The <\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Bijoutiers-joailliers <\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">encompassed large jewelry houses such as <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/creators\/boucheron\/jewelry\/\">Boucheron<\/a>, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/creators\/mauboussin\/jewelry\/\">Mauboussin<\/a>, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/creators\/tiffany-and-co\/jewelry\/\">Tiffany &amp; Co.<\/a>, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/creators\/cartier\/jewelry\/\">Cartier<\/a>, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/creators\/van-cleef-and-arpels\/jewelry\/\">Van Cleef &amp; Arpels<\/a> and <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/creators\/black-starr-and-frost\/jewelry\/\">Black, Starr &amp; Frost<\/a>. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">The Art Deco style in jewelry lasted through the 1930s, and it was only in the 1940s that there was a major shift in design. However, the Art Deco style witnessed a revival in the late 1960s, and even today jewelry designers continue to be inspired by the period. Fascination with the <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/introspective-magazine\/the-jazz-age-at-cooper-hewitt\/\">Jazz Age<\/a> is endless.<\/span><\/p>\n<hr \/>\n<h2 style=\"text-align: center;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/jewelry\/style\/art-deco\/\">Browse All Art Deco Jewelry<\/a><\/h2>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":224733,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"apple_news_api_created_at":"2024-11-14T11:56:12Z","apple_news_api_id":"445dbfde-c052-4021-a499-388753a1c440","apple_news_api_modified_at":"2024-11-14T12:35:03Z","apple_news_api_revision":"AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAABA==","apple_news_api_share_url":"https:\/\/apple.news\/ARF2_3sBSQCGkmTiHU6HEQA","apple_news_cover_media_provider":"image","apple_news_coverimage":0,"apple_news_coverimage_caption":"","apple_news_cover_video_id":0,"apple_news_cover_video_url":"","apple_news_cover_embedwebvideo_url":"","apple_news_is_hidden":"","apple_news_is_paid":"","apple_news_is_preview":"","apple_news_is_sponsored":"","apple_news_maturity_rating":"","apple_news_metadata":"\"\"","apple_news_pullquote":"","apple_news_pullquote_position":"middle","apple_news_slug":"","apple_news_sections":["https:\/\/news-api.apple.com\/sections\/8b012b20-6eb7-478f-914d-852b22a7d76e"],"apple_news_suppress_video_url":false,"apple_news_use_image_component":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[15523143],"tags":[12049673,15525913,15525923,12799173,822,1322,15525813,3433553,13555953,15525873,15526263,15525783,15525823,15525803,15525933,15525853,15526283,15526273,15525893,15525903,15525773,15525863,15525833,15525983,15525843,15525973,15525793,15525943,15525953,15525763,15525883,7396083,15525993,15525963,447763,13785143],"dibs-categories":[],"dibs-designs":[],"dibs-styles":[],"dibs-creators":[],"dibs-sellers":[],"class_list":["post-221763","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-jewelry-2","tag-art-deco","tag-bijoutiers-artistes","tag-bijoutiers-joailliers","tag-black","tag-cartier","tag-coral","tag-cubism","tag-diamonds","tag-edwardian","tag-emeralds","tag-flapper","tag-flappers","tag-futurism","tag-georges-fouquet","tag-gerard-sandoz","tag-jade","tag-jazz","tag-jazz-age","tag-jean-despres","tag-jean-fouquet","tag-jewery","tag-lapis-lazuli","tag-machine-aesthetic","tag-mauboussin","tag-onyx","tag-paul-brandt","tag-platinum","tag-raymond-templier","tag-rene-boivin","tag-roaring-twenties","tag-rubies","tag-sapphires","tag-starr-frost","tag-suzanne-belperron","tag-tiffany-co","tag-van-cleef-arpels"],"acf":{"subtitle":"","post_format":"article","show_date":true,"interstitial_banners":false,"show_related_items_footer_popup":false,"slideshows":false,"contributors":{"hide_byline":false,"columnist":[{"ID":361858,"post_author":"1","post_date":"2021-12-14 22:36:15","post_date_gmt":"2021-12-15 03:36:15","post_content":"","post_title":"1stDibs Editors","post_excerpt":"","post_status":"publish","comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","post_password":"","post_name":"1stdibs-editors","to_ping":"","pinged":"","post_modified":"2021-12-14 22:36:15","post_modified_gmt":"2021-12-15 03:36:15","post_content_filtered":"","post_parent":0,"guid":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/contributors\/1stdibs-editors\/","menu_order":0,"post_type":"contributors","post_mime_type":"","comment_count":"0","filter":"raw"}],"photographer":"","custom_byline":false}},"dibs_designs_tags":null,"dibs_sellers_tags":null,"dibs_creators_tags":null,"dibs_styles_tags":null,"dibs_categories_tags":null,"featured_image_url":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/Absinthe_pulp_l-580x450.jpg","post_title":"From King Tut to Flappers, What&#8217;s behind the Look of Art Deco Jewelry","fimg_url":{"thumbnail":{"source_url":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/Absinthe_pulp_l-120x113.jpg","width":120,"height":113},"medium":{"source_url":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/Absinthe_pulp_l-372x350.jpg","width":372,"height":350},"full":{"source_url":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/Absinthe_pulp_l.jpg","width":580,"height":545}},"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/Absinthe_pulp_l.jpg","apple_news_notices":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.2 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Art Deco Jewelry: The Story behind the Style | The Study<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"From King Tut to flappers, the geometric look of Art Deco jewelry has many roots.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, 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