{"id":226623,"date":"2024-01-12T12:05:00","date_gmt":"2024-01-12T17:05:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/?p=226623"},"modified":"2024-10-29T10:31:57","modified_gmt":"2024-10-29T14:31:57","slug":"cameo-jewelry","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/cameo-jewelry\/","title":{"rendered":"Cameo Jewelry: History, Significance and Worth"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
\"An<\/a>
Various cameos<\/a> on a mirrored table. Photo by jetcityimage\/Getty Images<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Until celebrities like Rihanna<\/a> and Sarah Jessica Parker<\/a> started flaunting them, cameo jewelry<\/a> was considered pass\u00e9. Cameos were often associated with the brooches<\/a> of yesteryear worn by maiden aunts, heirlooms from sentimental Victorians<\/a> who had profiles of loved ones carved into agate<\/a>, coral<\/a>, lava stone<\/a> and shell<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Regardless of how cameos came to experience a resurgence, their historical significance and sheer beauty have made them prized possessions among jewelry collectors<\/a>. Here, we explore the history of cameos, the ways to identify authentic ones and what makes these carved gems<\/a> both trendy and timeless.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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What Is a Cameo?<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Cameos are gemstones, shells or other natural or manmade materials carved in relief to depict landscapes, mythological figures or, most notably, women\u2019s portraits in profile. They are typically mounted in gold or silver and set in brooches<\/a>, necklaces<\/a>, bracelets<\/a>, pendants<\/a> and rings<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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A Brief History of Cameo Jewelry<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"Cameos<\/a>
Upon her widowhood, Queen Victoria<\/a> commissioned a series of onyx cameos, carved with a double portrait of her and her late husband and surrounded by gemstones, to give as badges to members of the Royal Order of Victoria and Albert. Photo courtesy of the Royal Collection Trust\/\u00a9 Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II 2017<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Cameo jewelry has a storied history that spans centuries, with each era leaving a unique imprint on the art form.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ancient Roots<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Cameos are part of a stone-carving tradition that goes back to prehistoric<\/a> petroglyphs, which are thought to have had spiritual significance. During the Roman Empire<\/a>, artisans carved mythological symbols and, later, political portraits into gemstones and glass \u2014 the latter marketed to lower social classes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The Renaissance<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

The Renaissance<\/a> and Elizabethan<\/a> periods saw an efflorescence of sophisticated cameos. Noblewomen adorned themselves with the carved gems to announce their social status and wealth. Pope Paul II wore so many cameo rings that some historians believe his perpetually cold hands contributed to his death.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The 19th Century<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Cameo jewelry became all the rage in the 1800s. Napoleon Bonaparte<\/a> and Queen Victoria<\/a> were both avid cameo collectors. In fact, the latter is credited with popularizing cameos made from shells<\/a>, which are softer than gemstones and much faster for artisans to carve, making them more affordable. During the 19th century, cameos made of hardened lava were sold as souvenirs to tourists visiting the recently uncovered ruins of Pompeii<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Cameo<\/a>
During Napoleon<\/a>\u2019s reign, cameo portraits<\/a> were often adorned with their own jewelry. Here, Napoleon is depicted wearing a diamond-studded laurel crown and armor. Image via Sotheby\u2019s<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Napoleon\u2019s Influence<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Napoleon<\/a>, an unexpected fashion icon, recognized the brilliance of Greco-Roman cameo craftsmanship and saw how cameos might serve as emblems of France\u2019s new republic, linking it to Roman grandeur. For his coronation as emperor, he ordered gold crowns set with cameos for himself and Josephine<\/a> and commissioned furniture embellished with the gems.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

To exploit what became a continental craze, Napoleon established a cameo school in Paris. French craftsmen rivaled their Italian counterparts, producing spectacular cameos and cameo jewelry throughout the remainder of the 19th century<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

20th Century<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

The 20th century witnessed a surge in affordable cameos, riding the wave of interest in costume jewelry. The carved gem\u2019s rich history and fine craftsmanship contributed to the popularity of both vintage and antique cameo jewelry<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Accessibly priced replicas of antique cameo jewelry made from seashells, glass and plastic broadened the genre\u2019s appeal.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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What Determines the Value of a Cameo Jewel?<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"An<\/a>
Cameos may be made from a variety of materials, including precious gems. This mid-19th-century cameo of a gorgon<\/a> was carved from an emerald. Its asymmetrical form indicates that the cutter followed the original shape of the stone.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

While fine one-of-a-kind cameo jewelry can cost upwards of $10,000, mass-produced pieces can be quite inexpensive.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The value of cameo jewels varies widely, depending on a combination of factors, including the type and quality of the material, the setting, the intricacy of the carving and the historical and artistic significance.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Material<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Cameos made from gemstones<\/a> like opals<\/a> or emeralds<\/a> are likely to fetch higher prices than those made from seashells or volcanic rock. Harder materials, like agate<\/a>, may cost more because of the difficulty of carving finer details into them.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Shell cameos<\/a>, which became popular during the Victorian era, are cherished for their beauty. Because shells are easier to source \u2014 and carve \u2014 shell cameos are often less expensive than those made from gemstones.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Take a close look before you buy one, however, since they are prone to hairline cracks caused by dehydration.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Setting<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

A gold or platinum frame or setting significantly increases the cost of a cameo, especially if it is original to the piece. A remounted cameo may still be a fine jewel, but it will be less valuable than one in its original setting.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Intricacy of Carving<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

A high level of detail, including delicate features, layers and fine nuances, as well as images that include multiple motifs, can make a cameo particularly valuable.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Historical and Artistic Significance<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Antique cameos<\/a> connected with historical figures, movements or events \u2014 along with ones depicting unusual subjects or made by famous artists \u2014 may be particularly prized.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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How Can I Identify Genuine Antique or Artisan-Made Cameo Jewelry?<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"A<\/a>
A contemporary artisan<\/a> carves and polishes a cameo.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Because cameos made from cheap materials are sometimes offered as authentic antique or artisanal examples, it\u2019s important to perform a careful assessment of any piece you\u2019re considering.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Determine the Cameo Material<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

One of the quickest ways to tell if your cameo is the real thing is to examine what it\u2019s made of. Authentic cameos are crafted from natural materials, such as ivory<\/a>, shell, coral, lava stone<\/a> and gemstones like onyx<\/a>, sardonyx<\/a> and agate.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Fake cameos are generally mass-produced using man-made substances like plastic, resin or glass. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Evaluate the Transparency<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Hold the cameo up to a light. If you can see through it and have a good view of the outline of the design, it\u2019s likely made from shell or a gemstone. Plastic versions aren\u2019t as transparent.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Look for Cracks or Crazing<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

While you\u2019re holding your cameo to the light to test for transparency, check for cracks and chips. These are more important for assessing condition (and therefore value) than authenticity. Soft plastic is more easily chipped than stone, but as noted above, shell is liable to crack if it becomes dry.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Crazing \u2014 the formation of hairline fractures \u2014 is common in antique cameos but doesn’t generally impact the beauty or value of a piece.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Other markings, such as small indentations and nicks from carving tools, likely mean your piece is an authentic antique made from natural materials.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Zoom in on the Carving<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
\"A<\/a>
Authentic antique and vintage cameos have fine details, like the delicate fabric folds and carved braids on this Victorian cameo brooch<\/a> of the late 19th century.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

You can tell much about the genuineness of a cameo by looking closely at the carvings. Check things like:<\/p>\n\n\n\n