{"id":232523,"date":"2017-08-04T17:50:02","date_gmt":"2017-08-04T21:50:02","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/?p=232523"},"modified":"2022-12-08T15:38:08","modified_gmt":"2022-12-08T20:38:08","slug":"richard-avedons-america","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/richard-avedons-america\/","title":{"rendered":"Discovering Richard Avedon’s America"},"content":{"rendered":"
\"Richard

Richard Avedon, photographer, New York City, May 31, 2002<\/em>, a self-portrait by the artist. All photos are by Richard Avedon \u00a9 The Richard Avedon Foundation<\/p><\/div>\n

A while back, Richard Avedon<\/a> had a confession to make. \u201cI hate cameras,\u201d said the man who revolutionized fashion and portrait photography<\/a>. \u201cIf I could only work with my eyes alone!\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

Yet Avedon\u2019s photos seem to do just that \u2014 they remove the distance the camera lens creates to make you feel that you are right there beside his subjects. <\/span><\/p>\n

From August 12 through October 9, the Guild Hall Museum in East Hampton, New York<\/a>, is presenting \u201cAvedon\u2019s America,\u201d a selection of black-and-white portraits that offer insight into the people (famous and ordinary) who shaped the United States of the mid-to-late 20th century.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Malcolm

Malcolm X, civil rights leader, New York, March 27, 1963<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n

Deciding what to include was an exercise in editing. \u201cYou could easily fill up a whole gallery\u201d with just images from the 1940s, said James Martin, executive director of the Richard Avedon Foundation, which co-organized the show. The images they chose are breathtaking conversation-starters.<\/span><\/p>\n

Born in New York City in 1923, Avedon had a stern father, an artistic mother and a beautiful, but troubled, sister. At 18, he wanted to be a poet. And the slight, 5\u20197\u201d dreamer didn\u2019t lack confidence \u2014 or a sense of drama. \u201cI know my drifting will not prove a loss \/ For mine is a rolling stone that has gathered moss,\u201d he wrote in 1941.<\/span><\/p>\n

A year later, Avedon joined the Merchant Marines, where he spent his World War II years shooting ID photos of new recruits. \u201cI must have taken pictures of 100,000 faces before it occurred to me I was becoming a photographer,” he later recalled.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"China

China Machado, evening pajamas by Galitzine, London, January 1965<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n

After demobilization in 1944, Avedon shot fashion pictures<\/a> for the tony Manhattan department store Bonwit Teller<\/a> and studied with <\/span>Harper\u2019s Bazaar<\/span><\/i> art director, Alexey Brodovitch. By 1945, his work was appearing in <\/span>Junior Bazaar. <\/span><\/i>\u201cHis first photographs for us were technically very bad,\u201d Brodovitch later recalled. \u201cBut they were not snapshots. . . . Those first pictures of his had freshness and individuality, and they showed enthusiasm and a willingness to take chances.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

Who else was willing to take chances? Brodovitch and Carmel Snow<\/span>, <\/span><\/i>editor in chief of <\/span>Harper\u2019s Bazaar<\/span><\/i>, who soon sent the young talent to fashion\u2019s sacred capital, Paris.<\/span><\/p>\n

The postwar years were hard in Paris. When Avedon first arrived there, in 1946, it was with an explicit directive from Snow. \u201cDick was tasked with this idea that he was there to rebuild Paris,\u201d explains Martin. In restoring the energy and excitement around Paris, Avedon imbued it with some of his own.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Donyale

Donyale Luna, dress by Paco Rabanne, New York, December 6, 1966<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n

Avedon\u2019s models jumped, twirled, leapt over puddles and they smiled. Like Avedon himself, they rarely stood still. While he wasn\u2019t the first to use action in fashion photography (in the 1930s, Martin Munkacsi<\/a> and Toni Frissell<\/a> began creating fashion images of women engaged in sporty scenarios), Avedon was the first to pair such vitality with women wearing couture. <\/span><\/p>\n

Character and spirit became la mode. Dovima\u2019s graceful silhouette juxtaposed against the wrinkled heft of two shackled elephants. Dorian Leigh<\/a> laughing and embracing a bicycle racer. Suzy Parker<\/a> roller skating across the Place de la Concorde. Sunny Harnett and her cool gaze just daring the roulette table \u2014 and every man in the room \u2014 not to do her bidding. There was always a narrative in an Avedon mise en scene \u2014 whether the background was elaborately staged or stark, the model\u2019s job had forever changed from posing, to acting.<\/p>\n

Avedon had everything to do with this. Said one model, \u201cDick could make a stone respond.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

\"The

The Generals of the Daughters of the American Revolution, DAR Convention, Mayflower Hotel, Washington, D.C., October 15, 1963<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n

Of course, Avedon did not limit himself to fashion photography. The little boy who once collected autographs grew up to create the most iconic portraits of the 20th century, many of these are included in the exhibition.<\/p>\n

A 1958 New Yorker<\/em> profile noted that even though Avedon\u2019s portraits immortalized cultural elites such as Truman Capote, Elsa Maxwell and Charles Laughton, the qualities that most interested the photographer were \u201cadvanced age, physical debility, ugliness, or the pathos underlying the surface insouciance.\u201d Yet \u201cnone of Avedon\u2019s subjects seem to resent this kind of treatment . . . being selected to sit for one of his Harper\u2019s Bazaar<\/em> portraits ranks as an accolade.\u201d<\/p>\n

\"Blue

Blue Cloud (Larry) Wright, slaughterhouse worker, Omaha, Nebraska, August 10, 1979<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n

Over the next 40-plus years of his career, his iconic portraiture never lost its force; although at times, his unvarnished truth felt cruel. His photographs of Americans, says Martin, are not \u201ca glamorized fiction of what it means to be American.\u201d<\/p>\n

Instead, the exhibition features citizens of \u201can odd and quirky and strange and complicated place.\u201d Undoubtedly, it’s a description that holds true today.<\/p>\n

But Avedon was a creator, not an observer, and he made no apologies for this. The sitter and the photographer \u201chave separate ambitions for the image,\u201d he wrote in 1985. \u201cHis need to plead his case probably goes as deep as my need to plead mine, but the control is with me.\u201d<\/p>\n

Avedon died of a cerebral hemorrhage in 2004 while on assignment for the New Yorker<\/em>.<\/p>\n

\t

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A while back, Richard Avedon had a confession to make. \u201cI hate cameras,\u201d said the man who revolutionized fashion and portrait photography. \u201cIf I could only work with my eyes alone!\u201d<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":236853,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"apple_news_api_created_at":"2022-12-08T20:35:43Z","apple_news_api_id":"f58dd5e2-3622-49d2-90c1-22e569352d68","apple_news_api_modified_at":"2022-12-08T20:37:01Z","apple_news_api_revision":"AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA==","apple_news_api_share_url":"https:\/\/apple.news\/A9Y3V4jYiSdKQwSLlaTUtaA","apple_news_cover_media_provider":"image","apple_news_coverimage":0,"apple_news_coverimage_caption":"","apple_news_cover_video_id":0,"apple_news_cover_video_url":"","apple_news_cover_embedwebvideo_url":"","apple_news_is_hidden":"","apple_news_is_paid":"","apple_news_is_preview":"","apple_news_is_sponsored":"","apple_news_maturity_rating":"","apple_news_metadata":"\"\"","apple_news_pullquote":"","apple_news_pullquote_position":"","apple_news_slug":"","apple_news_sections":[],"apple_news_suppress_video_url":false,"apple_news_use_image_component":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[260],"tags":[15529353,10535373,10535363,10353223,15529393,15529433,15529423,15529403,12797403,712,15523433,262,15529343,2012,15529363,8343493,15529413,10469323,692,10353253,15038693,15529333,15529373,13067953,15529383],"dibs-categories":[15565858,15565868],"dibs-designs":[],"dibs-styles":[],"dibs-creators":[15567025],"dibs-sellers":[],"class_list":["post-232523","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-fine-art","tag-alexey-brodovitch","tag-america","tag-american","tag-black-and-white-photography","tag-china-machado","tag-dar","tag-daughters-of-the-american-revolution","tag-donyale-luna","tag-east-hampton","tag-exhibition","tag-fashion-2","tag-fine-art-2","tag-guild-hall-museum","tag-hamptons","tag-james-martin","tag-lisa-santandrea","tag-malcolm-x","tag-museum","tag-new-york","tag-photographer","tag-portrait","tag-richard-avedon","tag-richard-avedon-foundation","tag-self-portrait","tag-show","dibs-categories-dibs-a","dibs-categories-dibs-a_pho","dibs-creators-dibs-richard-avedon"],"acf":{"subtitle":"The 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