{"id":234333,"date":"2017-08-09T15:28:30","date_gmt":"2017-08-09T19:28:30","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/?p=234333"},"modified":"2021-12-15T07:56:19","modified_gmt":"2021-12-15T12:56:19","slug":"ellen-von-unwerth","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/ellen-von-unwerth\/","title":{"rendered":"Ellen von Unwerth’s Sexy Photos Redefine the Female Gaze"},"content":{"rendered":"
\"\"<\/a>

Mission Accomplished<\/em>, a 2014 portrait of Naomi Campbell, by Ellen von Unwerth<\/a><\/p><\/div>\n

<\/p>\n

She is much praised and sought-after, with her work regularly published in such magazines as <\/span>Vogue, Vanity Fair, Harper\u2019s Bazaar i-D, and Paper,<\/span><\/i> but why isn\u2019t the trailblazing fashion photographer Ellen von Unwerth<\/a> more famous?<\/span><\/p>\n

Being a woman might have something to do with it. After all, fashion photography is not only dominated by men, but it is also assessed by the standards of the male gaze.<\/span><\/p>\n

As a woman, and a former top model to boot, von Unwerth relates differently to the young women captured by her lens \u2014 and they to her. Instead of taking iconic images of impassive beauties, she snaps photos of frolicsome fillies, brimming with personality. If she has a message, it\u2019s that Cyndi Lauper was right: Girls really do just wanna have fun. But it\u2019s only now, in the age of Lena Dunham, that that viewpoint is gaining some artistic \u2014 and feminist \u2014 credence. <\/span><\/p>\n

\"Bavarian

Bavarian Girls<\/em><\/a> is in von Unwerth’s book Heimat<\/em>, published by Taschen. A print of the photo comes with the title’s Art Edition<\/a>.<\/p><\/div>\n

If anyone believes in enjoying life, it\u2019s von Unwerth. Had she not been blessed with high spirits, the odds are she\u2019d never have become the accomplished lenswoman she is, because hers was a hard-knock childhood. Born in Frankfurt in 1954, she lost both of her parents by the age of two and grew up in orphanages and foster homes. \u201cIt\u2019s what made my life,\u201d she told t<\/a><\/span>he<\/span> Guardian<\/span><\/i><\/a> in a recent interview<\/a>. Interestingly, she wasn\u2019t referring to its tragic dimensions, but the freedom it gave her.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cI remember my childhood as being fairly happy,\u201d she wrote in the introduction to her 2011 photo book <\/a><\/span>Fraulein<\/a> (<\/span><\/i>Taschen). <\/span>In her early teens, she and some friends established a hippie commune on an old farm in the Bavarian Alps. Artists and performers regularly passed through the nearby market town, and in that archly traditional locale, where the locals still wore ledenhosen and dirndls, von Unwerth became fascinated with nonconformists and renegades.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"David

David Bowie and Kate Moss II<\/a><\/em><\/p><\/div>\n

Can it be a surprise, then, that she eventually joined the circus? It was a circus in Munich, where she was taking college classes. She recalled it as being \u201cvery poetic and charming,\u201d in an interview on the photography site <\/span>Faded and Blurred<\/span><\/i><\/a>, \u201cwith beautiful lights and music.\u201d Fresh-faced, blond and leggy, the young von Unwerth wore a top hat and fishnet stockings and served as an assistant to the magician and the knife thrower. But at age 20, her big-tent adventure came to an end when a fashion photographer discovered her on the street. Before long, she was living in Paris, modeling for the likes of Guy Bourdin<\/a> and Oliviero Toscani. <\/span><\/p>\n

Von Unwerth felt at home with the carnival aspect of photoshoots \u2014 traveling, playing dress up and meeting the many creative eccentrics that make up the fashion tribe. As the years went on, though, she grew increasingly impatient with being told how to pose and then remaining motionless while the photographer got \u201chis\u201d shot. Too often, she felt emotionally exposed.<\/span><\/p>\n

Yet the more frustrated she grew with modeling, the more interested she became in taking picture. A photographer boyfriend gave her a camera, and she began experimenting. Her fashion photos of gamboling models soon appeared<\/span> in <\/span>Jill<\/span><\/i>, a highly influential French magazine. <\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"

This photo of Claudia Schiffer appeared in von Unwerth’s 1989\u201391 campaign for Guess<\/a>. Famously, the bustier Schiffer wore was not made by the jeans company.<\/p><\/div>\n

About five years after she’d picked up a camera, in 1989, von Unwerth scored a black-and-white ad campaign for Guess with a then-unknown Claudia Schiffer. With her tousled blonde tresses and charming gap between her front teeth, Schiffer looked as alluring and uninhibited as Brigitte Bardot.<\/span><\/p>\n

The wildly successful campaign launched both women into the stratosphere of their respective professions. Yet as famous as those pictures became, they never gave von Unwerth the kind of popular recognition that contemporaries like Herb Ritts<\/a> and Annie Leibovitz<\/a> achieved in the 1990s.   <\/span><\/p>\n

\"Rihanna,

Rihanna, Berlin<\/em>, 2009<\/a><\/p><\/div>\n

While images of alluring young women, often scantily clad, make up much of von Unwerth\u2019s fashion and advertising work, they have slanted more toward the ludic than lewd. Yet she\u2019s also been an intrepid adventurer in the land of erotica, shooting racy scenes for the lingerie company Agent Provocateur, as well as <\/span>Playboy<\/span><\/i> and <\/span>GQ <\/span><\/i>in a spread with Rihanna.<\/span><\/p>\n

However, it\u2019s been for the publisher Taschen that she has produced her most risqu\u00e9 work: several quite naughty picture books depicting tales of sadomasochism and fetishism. Von Unwerth is completely unabashed when speaking about these photographic romps.<\/span><\/p>\n

For her, a healthy appreciation of nudity and sexuality is very German. \u201cOh, ja<\/em>,\u201d she said to the <\/span>Guardian<\/span><\/i>, \u201cif you go to a park in Berlin in the summer, everybody is naked and playing Frisbee. You would get arrested if you did that in L.A.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Necklace

Necklace<\/em><\/a> is included in von Unwerth’s book Heimat<\/em><\/a>.<\/p><\/div>\n

So it\u2019s fitting that her latest investigation of the Germanic libido for Taschen is entitled <\/a><\/span>Heimat<\/span><\/i><\/a>. A German word that refers to a nostalgic longing for one\u2019s formative homeland, <\/span>Heimat <\/span><\/i>was shot in the Bavarian Alps.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cWe wanted to make a parody of the whole Bavarian thing,\u201d she says. <\/span>And so she has, as the book abounds in images of lissome lasses with bulging bodices and bare bottoms engaged in all manner of alpine activities. Delightfully decadent, the book and images are bound to become collector\u2019s items \u2014 proof of the provocative originality of the female gaze.<\/span><\/p>\n

\n

Shop Ellen Von Unwerth Photography<\/a><\/h2>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":237993,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"apple_news_api_created_at":"","apple_news_api_id":"","apple_news_api_modified_at":"","apple_news_api_revision":"","apple_news_api_share_url":"","apple_news_cover_media_provider":"image","apple_news_coverimage":0,"apple_news_coverimage_caption":"","apple_news_cover_video_id":0,"apple_news_cover_video_url":"","apple_news_cover_embedwebvideo_url":"","apple_news_is_hidden":"","apple_news_is_paid":"","apple_news_is_preview":"","apple_news_is_sponsored":"","apple_news_maturity_rating":"","apple_news_metadata":"\"\"","apple_news_pullquote":"","apple_news_pullquote_position":"","apple_news_slug":"","apple_news_sections":[],"apple_news_suppress_video_url":false,"apple_news_use_image_component":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[260,15522063],"tags":[15529783,302503,15529593,15529753,15529583,15529603,15529573,15529723,15038703,15038713,15529693,15529793,15529673,15528913,15523433,15000373,12417893,12827503,15529883,15529873,15529563,15529713,15529703,80,15529773,15529823,15529633,15529743,15529843,15529643,15529683,12219653,15529663,8776593,15524823,15529853,15529833,15529653,10353253,15529763,15529613,15529863,15529623,15529733,15527483,302523,1512,12417903],"dibs-categories":[15565858,15565868],"dibs-designs":[],"dibs-styles":[],"dibs-creators":[15567023],"dibs-sellers":[],"class_list":["post-234333","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-fine-art","category-fashion","tag-agent-provocateur","tag-annie-leibovitz","tag-bavaria","tag-bavarian","tag-bavarian-alps","tag-bondage","tag-camera","tag-claudia-schiffer","tag-color-photography","tag-contemporary-photography","tag-dirndl","tag-dominatrix","tag-editorial","tag-ellen-von-unwerth","tag-fashion-2","tag-fashion-photography","tag-female","tag-feminist","tag-fetish","tag-fetishism","tag-frankfurt","tag-frau","tag-fraulein","tag-german","tag-gq","tag-guy-bourdin","tag-harpers-bazaar","tag-heimat","tag-herb-ritts","tag-i-d","tag-ledenhosen","tag-lingerie","tag-magazine","tag-marisa-bartolucci","tag-model","tag-naomi-campbell","tag-oliviero-toscani","tag-paper","tag-photographer","tag-playboy","tag-s-m","tag-sadomasochism","tag-sexy","tag-supermodel","tag-the-superyacht-book","tag-vanity-fair","tag-vogue","tag-woman","dibs-categories-dibs-a","dibs-categories-dibs-a_pho","dibs-creators-dibs-ellen-von-unwerth"],"acf":{"subtitle":"Celebrities and supermodels have been posing for this German lenswoman since the 1980s. 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