{"id":23843,"date":"2015-07-08T12:45:35","date_gmt":"2015-07-08T16:45:35","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/?p=23843"},"modified":"2021-12-15T01:02:35","modified_gmt":"2021-12-15T06:02:35","slug":"8-haute-couture-ateliers","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/8-haute-couture-ateliers\/","title":{"rendered":"Behind the Seams: 8 Elite Haute Couture Ateliers"},"content":{"rendered":"
\"Mark-Shaw-Backstage-Balmain-Blue-Train\"<\/a>

Mark Shaw’s photograph Backstage Balmain Blue Train<\/i><\/a> depicts the glamorous behind-the-scenes chaos of the 1954 Pierre Balmain haute couture show. Offered by Liz O’Brien<\/p><\/div>\n

Technically speaking, the French term haute couture<\/em> refers to the made-to-order creations of an elite group of designers, which currently include Chanel<\/a>, Christian Dior<\/a>, Givenchy<\/a>, Jean Paul Gaultier<\/a>, Versace<\/a> and Valentino<\/a>. Membership in this group is tightly regulated by the intimidating-sounding chambre syndicale de la haute couture<\/em> \u2014 founded in 1868! \u2014 which mandates that all designated couturiers must maintain a full-time workshop, or atelier, of skilled artisans in the city of Paris. In these ateliers, seamstresses, designers and drapers meet with clients over multiple fittings to create one-of-a-kind pieces of extraordinary beauty and complexity.<\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

But the painstaking, staggering detail of couture garments outstrips the ability of even the most skilled brand atelier. Which is why the marquee names and labels who take to the runway rely on a host of even more specialized talents to fabricate, construct and execute highly specific elements of each piece. When you’re constructing, say, the hem of an ostrich-feather-trimmed ball gown, you don’t pick up your plumery from a local crafts store. Instead, you outsource the task to a 19th-century atelier that has made it its business \u2014 for nearly 150 years \u2014 to do just that. Though these fascinating micro-businesses do not have the same name recognition as their global, glamorous couture partners, they represent a crucial part of the haute couture design process. Read on to meet eight such ateliers, and learn how they help to preserve the rich history and heritage of their crafts.<\/p>\n

\n

<\/h3>\n

Desrues<\/b><\/h3>\n

Founded by the eponymous Georges Desrues in 1929 and purchased in 1984 by its primary client, Maison Chanel, Desrues is Paris\u2019s leading producer of costume jewelry and buttons. During his lifetime, the late Desrues was known for his work with the likes of Jeanne Lanvin, Christian Dior, and Yves Saint-Laurent.<\/p>\n

\n

Maison Michel <\/b><\/h3>\n

Recognized since 1936 for its bold experimentation with new shapes and materials for hats \u2014 producing modern takes on classic forms and utilizing an abundance of feathers, lace, beads and chains \u2014 Maison Michel is celebrated today for its signature collection of ready-to-wear hats and hat accessories.<\/p>\n

\n

<\/h3>\n

Lemari\u00e9<\/b><\/h3>\n

Formed in 1880 as purveyors of \u201cplumes-for-garments\u201d to department stores, feather-master Lemari\u00e9 was integrated into the high fashion circuit in 1946, when Andr\u00e9 Lemari\u00e9 joined the family business. Since then, the atelier has collaborated with some of the most prestigious names in haute couture, such as Balenciaga<\/a>, Nina Ricci<\/a>, Givenchy, Christian Dior and Chanel \u2014 who purchased it in 1996 \u2014 and is the sole remaining feather workshop in France.<\/p>\n

\n

Lesage <\/b><\/h3>\n

Paris’ most venerated embroidery studio, the 130-year-old Maison Lesage is the preeminent house of meticulous handiwork. Purchased by Chanel in 2002, the atelier employs highly skilled artisans in white lab coats \u2014 described by the French as \u201cpetites mains,\u201d or \u201clittle hands\u201d \u2014 who attach sequins, beads, rhinestones, shells, ribbons and feathers to delicate swaths of fabric for Dior, Louis Vuitton<\/a> and Yves Saint-Laurent<\/a>.<\/p>\n

\n

Massaro <\/b><\/h3>\n

Helmed since 2008 by master shoemaker Philippe Atienza, Massaro was founded in 1894 and has since been passed through the careful hands of three generations. Endorsed by the Duchess of Windsor, Marlene Dietrich, and Barbara Hutton \u2014 and selected as the official shoemaker for King Hassan II of Morocco \u2014 Massaro has shaped such iconic pieces as the Gr\u00e8s pump (1955) and the Chanel sandal (1958).<\/p>\n

\n

Guillet <\/b><\/h3>\n

Master corsage-maker since 1896, Guillet has reimagined daisies, forget-me-nots, jasmine, roses and lily of the valley as hairpieces, tiaras and crowns for the world\u2019s biggest couture ateliers. Woven into silk, organza, muslin, lacquered lace and gold chain, the label\u2019s floral accessories joined the Chanel constellation of historic houses in 2006.<\/p>\n

\n

Causse<\/b><\/h3>\n

Master glove studio Causse was founded in the windy French town of Millau in 1892. Causse has since come to define the aesthetic for this invaluable winter accessory, framing it as a haute couture decoration for the hand, always crafted from fine leathers and rare animal skins and embellished with precious stones, lace and fine trims.<\/p>\n

\n

Lognon <\/b><\/h3>\n

One of the last \u201cpleat makers\u201d in Paris, the legendary Lognon house was formed by G\u00e9rard Lognon\u2019s great grandmother during the reign of Napol\u00e9on III. Today, the atelier employs a mere five craftsmen, who delicately fold the cloths used by renowned haute couture houses \u2014 including Herm\u00e8s<\/a>, for its iconic, pleated-silk squares \u2014 lawyers, for their official gowns, or costume directors working in the realms of cinema and opera.<\/p>\n

\n

<\/h2>\n

To see the work of these ateliers in action, shop haute couture on 1stdibs<\/a><\/h2>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Technically speaking, the French term haute couture refers to the made-to-order creations of an elite group of designers, which currently include Chanel, Christian Dior, Givenchy, Jean Paul Gaultier, Versace and Valentino. Membership in this group is tightly regulated by the intimidating-sounding chambre syndicale de la haute couture \u2014 founded in 1868! \u2014 which mandates that 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