{"id":239493,"date":"2017-08-30T09:16:30","date_gmt":"2017-08-30T13:16:30","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/?p=239493"},"modified":"2021-12-15T07:54:03","modified_gmt":"2021-12-15T12:54:03","slug":"drawing-on-style","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/drawing-on-style\/","title":{"rendered":"Why Fashion Illustration Is Ripe for a Revival"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
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Kenneth Paul Block, Study for Fashion Savages John Fairchild<\/em>, 1965<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

\u201cThe eye has to travel.\u201d Legendary editor Diana Vreeland<\/a>\u2019s decree lives on in the assured lines of fashion illustrators Kenneth Paul Block<\/a>, Bil Donovan and Jason Brooks, whose work is the subject of an exhibition on view September 5th through 10th at Cheryl Hazan Gallery in Lower Manhattan. Timed to coincide with New York Fashion Week, the show marks the stateside debut of London gallery Gray M.C.A.\u2019s ongoing \u201cDrawing on Style\u201d series.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cIllustration was enormously important in the 20th century as a way of communicating fashion,\u201d says Connie Gray, who organized the exhibition. \u201cAnd then it went to sleep. It became no longer fashionable in itself, and photography completely and utterly took over.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Bolstered by digital tools and social-media platforms, a contemporary comeback is afoot. \u201cNow, your eye is really drawn to fashion illustration<\/a> because it\u2019s different. It\u2019s interpretative,\u201d she adds. \u201cAnd as a result, people are looking backwards and beginning to recognize what I call the \u2018masters\u2019 of the form.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Chief among them is Block (1924\u20132009), whose elegant sketches enlivened the pages of Women\u2019s Wear Daily<\/em> and W<\/em> magazine for almost 40 years. \u201cMore than any single designer, he gave New York fashion its sophistication,\u201d Isaac Mizrahi<\/a> has said of the artist. Block\u2019s pioneering work is joined in the show by that of two contemporary illustrators: New York\u2013based Donovan and London-based Brooks. \u201cThey are absolutely at the top of their field,\u201d says Gray. \u201cYet each has a unique language.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Right before \u201cDrawing on Style\u201d set sail for New York (aboard the cruise ship RMS Queen Mary 2, in partnership with Clarendon Fine Art), Gray offered a preview of the approximately 60 works in the exhibition.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Kenneth Paul Block, Evening wear for W Magazine<\/em><\/strong>
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In his role as chief features artist for WWD<\/em>, Block regularly covered the Paris runway shows \u2014 occasionally without leaving his Manhattan office. \u201cSo sophisticated was his talent that when unable to attend, he would produce dynamic and accurate drawings from the descriptions telephoned through to him,\u201d Gray says.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Kenneth Paul Block, Summer sportswear for W<\/em> magazine, 1981<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cGesture to me is everything in fashion,\u201d Block has said. \u201cIt is in the way we stand, sit, walk and lie. It is in the bone.\u201d To Gray, Block was the ultimate 20th-century fashion influencer. \u201cYou can see the change in the looks as they come through the decades, through Block\u2019s felt-tip pen,\u201d she says. \u201cIn the ’70s and ’80s, he predominantly used felt-tips, which is not considered to be a \u2018fine art\u2019 instrument, but it suited him perfectly because he worked incredibly fast. He could execute a sketch in a matter of minutes, with so much energy.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Bil Donovan, Society of Illustrators sketch, 2014<\/strong>
<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Donovan credits a childhood viewing of Sabrina<\/em>, starring Audrey Hepburn<\/a>, with an early career epiphany. \u201cIn one scene Hepburn floats across a ballroom in a Givenchy<\/a> gown \u2014 it was a vision I wanted to last forever,\u201d he has said. \u201cSo I began to draw figures in fashion, to emulate or recapture that ethereal moment.\u201d During the exhibition, Donovan will be on hand for a \u201clive illustration demonstration.\u201d A similar event he hosted at New York\u2019s Society of Illustrators (on whose board he serves) yielded this Hepburn-esque sketch.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Bil Donovan, Ralph Rucci couture spring 2015<\/strong><\/a>
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\u201cHis work captures the essence of proportion and gesture, and it\u2019s entirely spontaneous,\u201d Gray says of Donovan, who has often sketched the creations of designer Ralph Rucci<\/a> (a fellow Philadelphia native and graduate of the Fashion Institute of Technology). \u201cBut he transforms his images. Even though he\u2019s rooted in tradition, he uses his brush in an entirely contemporary style that transports the viewer into the world of elegance and style and harmony.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Jason Brooks, Fendi<\/strong>
<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cHis key style is silhouette,\u201d Gray says of Brooks, a graduate of Central Saint Martins and the Royal College of Art in the United Kingdom. \u201cHe works with really bold lines that jump out of the page. His strength lies in the communication of a look that sends an instant message.\u201d Italian fashion house Fendi<\/a> is among Brooks\u2019s personal favorites: \u201cTheir collections are consistently perfect material for my style,\u201d he has said.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Jason Brooks, Saint Laurent perspective, 2017<\/strong>
<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Brooks often scans his drawings and paintings and digitally manipulates them in Photoshop. His subjects are composites of people he knows or sees. \u201cDuring the ’90s, I began to draw a certain facial type with almond-shaped, catlike eyes, full lips and a strong bone structure that didn\u2019t necessarily belong to a particular nationality but somehow combined European, African and Asian features,\u201d Brooks explains. \u201cCombinations of nationalities are often among the most interesting and beautiful people, and I think that global-looking style is what makes \u2018the Jason Brooks woman\u2019 distinctive.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\n\t\t\t\t\t\tFind More Fashion Illustrations on 1stdibs\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t
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\u201cThe eye has to travel.\u201d Legendary editor Diana Vreeland\u2019s decree lives on in the assured lines of fashion illustrators Kenneth Paul Block, Bil Donovan and Jason Brooks, whose work is the subject of an exhibition on view September 5th through 10th at Cheryl Hazan Gallery in Lower Manhattan. Timed to coincide with New York Fashion […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":243093,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"apple_news_api_created_at":"","apple_news_api_id":"","apple_news_api_modified_at":"","apple_news_api_revision":"","apple_news_api_share_url":"","apple_news_cover_media_provider":"image","apple_news_coverimage":0,"apple_news_coverimage_caption":"","apple_news_cover_video_id":0,"apple_news_cover_video_url":"","apple_news_cover_embedwebvideo_url":"","apple_news_is_hidden":"","apple_news_is_paid":"","apple_news_is_preview":"","apple_news_is_sponsored":"","apple_news_maturity_rating":"","apple_news_metadata":"\"\"","apple_news_pullquote":"","apple_news_pullquote_position":"","apple_news_slug":"","apple_news_sections":[],"apple_news_suppress_video_url":false,"apple_news_use_image_component":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[260,15522063],"tags":[15531433,15531453,15531513,15531483,5012153,15531473,15531413,3393,15531463,300993,15531443,15531423,13274543,15531523,10324683,15531503,15531493],"dibs-categories":[],"dibs-designs":[],"dibs-styles":[],"dibs-creators":[],"dibs-sellers":[],"class_list":["post-239493","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-fine-art","category-fashion","tag-bil-donovan","tag-cheryl-hazan-gallery","tag-clarendon-fine-art","tag-connie-gray","tag-diana-vreeland","tag-drawing-on-style","tag-fashion-illustration","tag-givenchy","tag-gray-m-c-a","tag-isaac-mizrahi","tag-jason-brooks","tag-kenneth-paul-block","tag-new-york-fashion-week","tag-rms-queen-mary-2","tag-stephanie-murg","tag-w-magazine","tag-womens-wear-daily"],"acf":{"subtitle":"A 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