{"id":303533,"date":"2018-07-06T16:00:44","date_gmt":"2018-07-06T20:00:44","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/?p=303533"},"modified":"2024-10-22T17:23:25","modified_gmt":"2024-10-22T21:23:25","slug":"enamel-jewelry","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/enamel-jewelry\/","title":{"rendered":"Everything You&#8217;d Want to Know about Enamel Jewelry"},"content":{"rendered":"<div id=\"attachment_308691\" style=\"width: 960px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/furniture\/more-furniture-collectibles\/collectibles-curiosities\/collectible-jewelry\/line-vautrin-ramses-necklace-france-c-1945\/id-f_764566\/\"><img decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-308691\" class=\"wp-image-308691\" src=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/9564_1353437846_2.jpg\" alt=\"Line Vautrin gilt-bronze and enamel Rams\u00e8s necklace, ca. 1945\" width=\"950\" height=\"800\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/9564_1353437846_2.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/9564_1353437846_2-416x350.jpg 416w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/9564_1353437846_2-950x800.jpg 950w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/9564_1353437846_2-120x101.jpg 120w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/9564_1353437846_2-768x647.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 950px) 100vw, 950px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-308691\" class=\"wp-caption-text\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/furniture\/more-furniture-collectibles\/collectibles-curiosities\/collectible-jewelry\/line-vautrin-ramses-necklace-france-c-1945\/id-f_764566\/\">Line Vautrin gilt-bronze and enamel Rams\u00e8s necklace, ca. 1945<\/a><\/p><\/div>\n<p>Enameling is one of the oldest forms of surface decoration, used to add color to <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/jewelry\/\">jewelry<\/a> without having to rely on gemstones. Evidence of enameling goes back to ancient Greece. Throughout history, far-flung cultures favored different techniques for <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/jewelry\/metal\/enamel\/\">enamel jewelry<\/a>. For example, cloisonn\u00e9 enamel was popular during the Byzantine Empire, while artisans living in France and Germany in the Middle Ages preferred champlev\u00e9. And <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/jewelry\/style\/art-nouveau\/\">Art Nouveau jewelry<\/a> designers favored plique \u00e0 jour.<\/p>\n<p>At its core, enamel is the fusion of powdered glass to metal, and artists like enameling because it allows them to add a painterly or illustrative quality to their work.<\/p>\n<p>Here, we look at some of the most common techniques for enameling jewelry.<\/p>\n<hr \/>\n<h2>Cloisonn\u00e9<\/h2>\n<div id=\"attachment_306001\" style=\"width: 690px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/buy\/cloisonne-jewelry\/\"><img decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-306001\" class=\"wp-image-306001\" src=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/3758133_master.jpg\" alt=\"Antique English Yellow Gold Cloisonn\u00e9 Enamel Diamond and Pearl Fish Cufflinks\" width=\"680\" height=\"481\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/3758133_master.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/3758133_master-495x350.jpg 495w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/3758133_master-120x85.jpg 120w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 680px) 100vw, 680px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-306001\" class=\"wp-caption-text\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/jewelry\/cufflinks\/cufflinks\/antique-english-yellow-gold-cloisonne-enamel-diamond-pearl-fish-cufflinks\/id-j_3758133\/\">Cloisonn\u00e9 enamel, diamond, gold and pearl fish cufflinks, ca. 1875<\/a><\/p><\/div>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/buy\/cloisonne-jewelry\/\">Cloisonn\u00e9<\/a> (\u201ccell\u201d in French) is a technique in which thin wires of fine silver or gold are used to outline a design, which is then filled with enamel. The piece is subsequently placed in a kiln where the enamel is melted. Cloisonn\u00e9 is distinct because the individual wires remain visible, forming an outline of the motif.<\/p>\n<hr \/>\n<h2>Champlev\u00e9<\/h2>\n<div id=\"attachment_306031\" style=\"width: 690px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/buy\/cloisonne-jewelry\/\"><img decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-306031\" class=\"wp-image-306031\" src=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/ORG_e6172198aa_1280x1280_org_l.jpg\" alt=\"French Enamel Diamond Gold Lapel Brooch\" width=\"680\" height=\"519\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/ORG_e6172198aa_1280x1280_org_l.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/ORG_e6172198aa_1280x1280_org_l-459x350.jpg 459w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/ORG_e6172198aa_1280x1280_org_l-120x92.jpg 120w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 680px) 100vw, 680px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-306031\" class=\"wp-caption-text\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/jewelry\/brooches\/brooches\/french-enamel-diamond-gold-lapel-brooch\/id-j_883162\/\">Enamel, diamond and gold brooch, 1960<\/a><\/p><\/div>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/buy\/champleve-jewelry\/\">Champlev\u00e9<\/a> (\u201clevel field\u201d in French) enamel is almost the opposite of cloisonn\u00e9. In this technique, depressions in the metal are made by etching, engraving or chiseling, and then layers of enamel are built up until they rise slightly above the surface of the metal. The enamel is then fired and polished.<\/p>\n<hr \/>\n<h2>Guilloch\u00e9<\/h2>\n<div id=\"attachment_306051\" style=\"width: 690px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/buy\/guilloche-jewelry\/\"><img decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-306051\" class=\"wp-image-306051\" src=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/ORG_8292M_l.jpg\" alt=\"Faberge Enamel Ruby Diamond Gold Brooch\" width=\"680\" height=\"568\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/ORG_8292M_l.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/ORG_8292M_l-419x350.jpg 419w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/ORG_8292M_l-120x100.jpg 120w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 680px) 100vw, 680px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-306051\" class=\"wp-caption-text\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/jewelry\/brooches\/brooches\/faberge-enamel-ruby-diamond-gold-brooch\/id-j_241944\/\">Faberg\u00e9 enamel, ruby, diamond and gold brooch, 1898\u20131908<\/a><\/p><\/div>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/buy\/guilloche-jewelry\/\">Guilloch\u00e9<\/a> is a technique in which translucent enamel is applied to a piece of metal that has had designs cut into it using a lathe. After the firing, the patterns on the metal become visible. Guilloch\u00e9 was <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/introspective-magazine\/faberge-victoria-and-albert-museum\/\">made famous<\/a> by <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/creators\/peter-carl-faberge\/\">Peter Carl Faberg\u00e9<\/a>, whose <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/creators\/faberge\/\">jewelry house<\/a> used the technique on many of its <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/creators\/faberge\/jewelry\/objets-dart-vertu\/\">objets d\u2019art<\/a> as well as <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/creators\/faberge\/jewelry\/\">jewelry<\/a>.<\/p>\n<hr \/>\n<h2>Plique \u00e0 Jour<\/h2>\n<div id=\"attachment_306071\" style=\"width: 690px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/buy\/plique-a-jour-jewelry\/\"><img decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-306071\" class=\"wp-image-306071\" src=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/2432963_l.jpg\" alt=\"Georges Fouquet French Art Nouveau opal, pearl, gold and enamel Pendant\" width=\"680\" height=\"680\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/2432963_l.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/2432963_l-350x350.jpg 350w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/2432963_l-120x120.jpg 120w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/2432963_l-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/2432963_l-216x216.jpg 216w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 680px) 100vw, 680px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-306071\" class=\"wp-caption-text\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/jewelry\/necklaces\/pendant-necklaces\/georges-fouquet-french-art-nouveau-opal-pearl-gold-enamel-pendant\/id-j_2432963\/\">Georges Fouquet opal, pearl, gold and enamel pendant, ca. 1900<\/a><\/p><\/div>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/buy\/plique-a-jour-jewelry\/\">Plique \u00e0 jour<\/a> (&#8220;letting in daylight&#8221; in French) enamel was popular during the <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/art-nouveau-jewelry\/\">Art Nouveau period<\/a>. In this technique, the enamel is not applied to metal, but instead enamel powder is applied to cells on a thin sheet of copper foil or mica and then etched away. Essentially the backing is removed, sometimes with acid, to create a stained-glass-like effect. Enamel jewelry made with plique \u00e0 jour often has a luminous quality because light is able to penetrate the piece from the front and back.<\/p>\n<hr \/>\n<h2>Ronde Bosse<\/h2>\n<div id=\"attachment_306081\" style=\"width: 690px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/jewelry\/brooches\/brooches\/carlo-giuliano-renaissance-revival-enamel-diamond-ruby-pearl-gold-brooch\/id-j_197086\/\"><img decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-306081\" class=\"wp-image-306081\" src=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/ORG_20320_l.jpg\" alt=\"Carlo Giuliano Renaissance-Revival Enamel Diamond Ruby Pearl Gold Brooch\" width=\"680\" height=\"680\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/ORG_20320_l.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/ORG_20320_l-350x350.jpg 350w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/ORG_20320_l-120x120.jpg 120w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/ORG_20320_l-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/ORG_20320_l-216x216.jpg 216w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 680px) 100vw, 680px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-306081\" class=\"wp-caption-text\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/jewelry\/brooches\/brooches\/carlo-giuliano-renaissance-revival-enamel-diamond-ruby-pearl-gold-brooch\/id-j_197086\/\">Carlo Giuliano enamel, diamond, ruby and pearl brooch, 1890s<\/a><\/p><\/div>\n<p>Ronde bosse (\u201cround work\u201d in French) is the technique in which enamel is applied to three-dimensional forms. This practice was first used in the 15th century, during the <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/jewelry\/style\/renaissance\/\">Renaissance<\/a>, with the invention of adhesives that would hold the enamel in place and disappear after firing.<\/p>\n<hr \/>\n<h2>Enamel Finishes<\/h2>\n<div id=\"attachment_310861\" style=\"width: 690px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/jewelry\/bracelets\/cuff-bracelets\/1970s-david-webb-black-enamel-diamond-gold-cuff-bracelet\/id-j_1063272\/\"><img decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-310861\" class=\"wp-image-310861\" src=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/1063272_org_l.jpg\" alt=\"David Webb cuff, 1970s\" width=\"680\" height=\"680\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/1063272_org_l.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/1063272_org_l-350x350.jpg 350w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/1063272_org_l-120x120.jpg 120w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/1063272_org_l-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/1063272_org_l-216x216.jpg 216w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 680px) 100vw, 680px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-310861\" class=\"wp-caption-text\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/jewelry\/bracelets\/cuff-bracelets\/1970s-david-webb-black-enamel-diamond-gold-cuff-bracelet\/id-j_1063272\/\">David Webb enamel, diamond and gold cuff, 1970s<\/a><\/p><\/div>\n<p>There are also several ways to apply the enamel: It can be sifted, painted, stenciled, sponged, dropped or inlaid wet or dry on the metal. Artisans can also enhance their designs via sgraffito, or etching into the metal, and inlaying found objects.<\/p>\n<p>Enamel is a temperamental technique in which each piece is fired in a kiln at temperatures ranging from 1,200 to 1,700 degrees Fahrenheit. If part of the enamel cracks, the damage can be irreparable and the piece considered a total loss. With that in mind, beautifully made pieces of enamel jewelry feel that much more precious.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\">\t<div class=\"interstitial-banner interstitial-banner-collection interstitial-container\">\n\t\t<div class=\"interstitial-content\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"interstitial-background-image\">\n\t\t\t\t<img decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"300\" src=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/21f_2000x1600_master-768x300.jpg\" class=\"attachment-interstitial size-interstitial\" alt=\"\" \/>\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t<div class=\"container interstitial-text\">\n\t\t\t\t<a class=\"interstitial-link-around-text\" href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/jewelry\/metal\/enamel\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"interstitial-heading\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\tBrowse More Enamel Jewelry\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"interstitial-subheading\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t\t<a class=\"gold-button\" href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/jewelry\/metal\/enamel\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<span>Shop All<\/span>\n\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Enameling is one of the oldest forms of surface decoration, used to add color to jewelry without having to rely on gemstones. Evidence of enameling goes back to ancient Greece. Throughout history, far-flung cultures favored different techniques for enamel jewelry. For example, cloisonn\u00e9 enamel was popular during the Byzantine Empire, while artisans living in France [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":306031,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"apple_news_api_created_at":"2024-10-22T21:18:49Z","apple_news_api_id":"21df0c91-fc8a-45e4-ac52-45ed0d3b77b2","apple_news_api_modified_at":"2024-10-22T21:26:36Z","apple_news_api_revision":"AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAQ==","apple_news_api_share_url":"https:\/\/apple.news\/AId8MkfyKReSsUkXtDTt3sg","apple_news_cover_media_provider":"image","apple_news_coverimage":0,"apple_news_coverimage_caption":"","apple_news_cover_video_id":0,"apple_news_cover_video_url":"","apple_news_cover_embedwebvideo_url":"","apple_news_is_hidden":"","apple_news_is_paid":"","apple_news_is_preview":"","apple_news_is_sponsored":"","apple_news_maturity_rating":"","apple_news_metadata":"\"\"","apple_news_pullquote":"","apple_news_pullquote_position":"","apple_news_slug":"","apple_news_sections":[],"apple_news_suppress_video_url":false,"apple_news_use_image_component":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[15523143],"tags":[12186303,15533753,15547793,15547783,15533793,15547773,15547763,15547803,15547813,15534063],"dibs-categories":[15565903],"dibs-designs":[],"dibs-styles":[15566452,15566953],"dibs-creators":[15566956,15566434,15566954,15566955],"dibs-sellers":[],"class_list":["post-303533","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-jewelry-2","tag-art-nouveau","tag-art-nouveau-jewelry","tag-champleve","tag-cloisonne","tag-enamel","tag-enamel-jewelry","tag-enameling","tag-guilloche","tag-peter-carl-faberge","tag-plique-a-jour","dibs-categories-dibs-j","dibs-styles-dibs-art-nouveau","dibs-styles-dibs-byzantine","dibs-creators-dibs-carlo-giuliano","dibs-creators-dibs-david-webb","dibs-creators-dibs-faberge","dibs-creators-dibs-georges-fouquet"],"acf":{"post_format":"article","subtitle":"From vibrant to subtle, elegant to cheeky, enamel jewelry encompasses a wide range of colors and styles, and there are almost as many techniques for creating these distinctive pieces.","interstitial_banners":[{"acf_fc_layout":"collection","interstitial_banner_shortcode":"","interstitial_banner_background_image":309641,"interstitial_banner_heading":"Browse More Enamel Jewelry","interstitial_banner_subheading":"","interstitial_banner_button_text":"Shop All","interstitial_banner_button_url":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/jewelry\/metal\/enamel\/"}],"slideshows":false,"show_date":true,"show_related_items_footer_popup":false,"contributors":{"hide_byline":false,"columnist":[{"ID":361925,"post_author":"1","post_date":"2021-12-14 22:36:32","post_date_gmt":"2021-12-15 03:36:32","post_content":"","post_title":"Bella Neyman","post_excerpt":"","post_status":"publish","comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","post_password":"","post_name":"bella-neyman","to_ping":"","pinged":"","post_modified":"2021-12-14 22:36:32","post_modified_gmt":"2021-12-15 03:36:32","post_content_filtered":"","post_parent":0,"guid":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/contributors\/bella-neyman\/","menu_order":0,"post_type":"contributors","post_mime_type":"","comment_count":"0","filter":"raw"}],"photographer":"","custom_byline":false}},"dibs_designs_tags":null,"dibs_sellers_tags":null,"dibs_creators_tags":["dibs-carlo-giuliano","dibs-david-webb","dibs-faberge","dibs-georges-fouquet"],"dibs_styles_tags":["dibs-art-nouveau","dibs-byzantine"],"dibs_categories_tags":["dibs-j"],"featured_image_url":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/ORG_e6172198aa_1280x1280_org_l-640x450.jpg","post_title":"Everything You&#8217;d Want to Know about Enamel Jewelry","fimg_url":{"thumbnail":{"source_url":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/ORG_e6172198aa_1280x1280_org_l-120x92.jpg","width":120,"height":92},"medium":{"source_url":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/ORG_e6172198aa_1280x1280_org_l-459x350.jpg","width":459,"height":350},"full":{"source_url":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/ORG_e6172198aa_1280x1280_org_l.jpg","width":768,"height":586}},"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/ORG_e6172198aa_1280x1280_org_l.jpg","apple_news_notices":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.6 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Enamel Jewelry: A Guide to Common Techniques | The Study<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Enamel jewelry encompasses a wide range of colors and styles, and there are almost as many techniques for 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