{"id":314951,"date":"2018-08-15T17:30:19","date_gmt":"2018-08-15T21:30:19","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/?p=314951"},"modified":"2021-12-15T07:12:22","modified_gmt":"2021-12-15T12:12:22","slug":"antwerp-six","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/antwerp-six\/","title":{"rendered":"How the Antwerp Six Made Belgium an International Fashion Hotspot"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
\"Antwerp
The Antwerp Six in 1986 (left to right): Marina Yee, Dries Van Noten, Ann Demeulemeester, Walter Van Beirendonck, Dirk Bikkembergs and Dirk Van Saene. Photo by Karel Fonteyne, images courtesy of BOZAR<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Paris, London, New York and Milan will no doubt come to mind when you think of world fashion capitals. Antwerp probably won\u2019t. Located in Belgium\u2019s northeastern province of Flanders, the city of roughly half a million is not particularly cosmopolitan. However, Antwerp is home to the world\u2019s oldest stock-exchange building and has long been a major import-export center, dominating the world\u2019s diamond trade since the 15th century.
<\/p>\n\n\n\n

But it\u2019s not the diamond market that keeps hopeful young couturiers flocking to the city. A now-iconic group of designers dubbed the Antwerp Six emerged there in the early 1980s, when the words \u201cfashion\u201d and \u201cBelgium\u201d were far from congruous. They are Dries Van Noten<\/a>, Walter Van Beirendonck<\/a>, Ann Demeulemeester<\/a>, Marina Yee, Dirk Bikkembergs<\/a> and Dirk Van Saene<\/a>.
<\/p>\n\n\n\n

After graduating from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts between 1980 and \u201981, under the tutelage of Linda Loppa, the designers ignited something of a movement in 1986, when they loaded the back of a rental van with their designs and drove to London. The creators, each with a distinct approach to fashion, caught the attention of the British press with their collections of unusual garments, considered radical and avant garde for the time. Their designs were a hit, and since the press had difficulty pronouncing their names, the group became known as the Antwerp Six.
<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Together, their work helped broaden the industry\u2019s focus \u2014 which centered on Parisian and luxury houses like Chanel<\/a>, Louis Vuitton<\/a> and Herm\u00e8s<\/a> \u2014 and established Antwerp as a hub for fashion design.
<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

Dries Van Noten<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"Dries<\/a>
Dries Van Noten Spring\/Summer 2005 show in Paris. Photo by Etienne Tordoir<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

After the Antwerp Six\u2019s debut in London, Barneys was quick to bring Dries Van Noten\u2019s designs<\/a> stateside, initially stocking his men\u2019s suits in small sizes and selling them as womenswear.
<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Today, he presents his collections twice a year in Paris, but he does not deal in couture \u2014 all of his pieces are made ready-to-wear. After leading the long-independent brand as founder-designer since its institution in the ’80s, Van Noten announced in June the sale of a majority share in the company to Barcelona-based luxury group Puig, which also owns Carolina Herrera<\/a> and Nina Ricci<\/a> brands. Maintaining a minority share, Van Noten will stay on as chief creative officer and a chairman of the board.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Given the success of his eponymous label, Van Noten is perhaps the most famous of the six. With a Van Noten collection, you can expect classic tailoring and dynamic prints.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

Ann Demeulemeester<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"Ann<\/a>
Ann Demeulemeester Spring\/Summer 1982. Photo by Patrick Robyn<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Citing singer Patti Smith<\/a> as an inspiration, Ann Demeulemeester<\/a> draws upon themes from goth and punk to create structural garments tinged with a rock-and-roll, bohemian spirit. Her stark silhouettes, frequently styled in a monochromatic color palette, are instantly recognizable, and she often incorporates asymmetrical cuts and supple fabrics to play with form and movement.
<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Demeulemeester arrived at fashion design after studying fine art, and it was in a Parisian art gallery that she hosted her first runway show in 1992. Though she stepped down from her eponymous brand in 2013, designer S\u00e9bastien Meunier continues to celebrate the brand\u2019s iconic forms.
<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

Dirk Van Saene<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"A<\/a>
A model wears Dirk Van Saene clothing in 1990. Photo by Ronald Stoops<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Compared to his more experimental contemporaries Van Noten and Van Beirendonck, Dirk Van Saene\u2019s designs<\/a> are elegantly subdued. He began selling his pieces in his Antwerp boutique, Beauties and Heroes, after graduating from the Royal Academy in 1981. Two years later, he won Belgium\u2019s prestigious Golden Spool contest.
<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Today, Van Saene continues to produce garments at a small scale, distributed internationally through select stores, and he maintains the boutique DVS in collaboration with Walter Van Beirendonck. In addition to designing clothing, he paints and molds ceramics, and he teaches fashion design at his alma mater, the Royal Academy of Fine Arts.
<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

Walter Van Beirendonck<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"Walter<\/a>
A Walter Van Beirendonck getup from Autumn\/Winter 1995\u201396. Photo by Ronald Stoops<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Walter Van Beirendonck<\/a>\u2019s creations are often sexually charged with references to fetish culture. (Vogue<\/em> described his Fall 2018 menswear collection as \u201csexy pagan hazmat attire.\u201d) The Brecht-born designer started his eponymous label in 1983, creating garments characterized by bold graphics, disparate color combinations and strong, boxy shapes.
<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Now heading the Royal Academy\u2019s fashion department, Van Beirendonck has nurtured many of today\u2019s top designers, including fellow Belgians Raf Simons<\/a>, now chief creative officer of Calvin Klein<\/a>, and Kris van Assche<\/a>, former head of Dior Homme<\/a>. He designed costumes for U2\u2019s 1997 PopMart tour, and he founded the fashion publication A Magazine Curated By<\/em>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

Dirk Bikkembergs<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/a>
Dirk Bikkembergs khaki utility jacket, 2000s<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Born in Cologne, Germany, Dirk Bikkembergs<\/a> mined his upbringing for inspiration. His father was a member of the Belgian Army, and much of Bikkembergs\u2019s early work referenced military dress<\/a>, using clean-cut lines for a masculine look.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Prior to the Antwerp Six\u2019s London debut, Bikkembergs had already won the Cannette d\u2019Or Award for best young fashion designer, which enabled him to launch his men\u2019s shoe collection. Early on, he strictly designed menswear, and in fact, his first womenswear collection was identical to his men\u2019s line \u2014 just sized down a tad.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

His later work was influenced by soccer, focused primarily on footwear and knits, and he was the first designer allowed to host a fashion show in a soccer stadium. In 2013, Bikkembergs\u2019 label was purchased by Italian company Zeis Excelsa, and today it is headed by creative director Lee Wood, a British-born designer who arrived at the brand after 16 years at Versace<\/a>.
<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

Marina Yee<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Marina Yee worked closely with Dirk Bikkembergs on various collections as he expanded his own line. Though she left the fashion business in 1990, she made a brief return between 1998 and the early 2000s, creating new garments from kitschy flea-market finds as an answer to fashion\u2019s consumerist nature. She currently has a workshop in Brussels and teaches at the Royal Academy of Arts in Ghent and The Hague.
<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Paris, London, New York and Milan will no doubt come to mind when you think of world fashion capitals. Antwerp probably won\u2019t. Located in Belgium\u2019s northeastern province of Flanders, the city of roughly half a million is not particularly cosmopolitan. However, Antwerp is home to the world\u2019s oldest stock-exchange building and has long been a 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