{"id":32993,"date":"2023-08-28T13:39:00","date_gmt":"2023-08-28T17:39:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/?p=32993"},"modified":"2023-10-12T06:35:45","modified_gmt":"2023-10-12T10:35:45","slug":"how-to-spot-a-fake-rolex","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/how-to-spot-a-fake-rolex\/","title":{"rendered":"How to Spot a Fake Rolex: 13+ Expert Tips"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
\"Rolex<\/a>
An authentic Rolex Rainbow Cosmograph Daytona (ref. 116598RBOW)<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The vast majority of fake Rolex<\/a> watches in the world are cheap, easy-to-spot knockoffs. \u201cYou know that if it cost $50, it\u2019s not a real Rolex. It\u2019s a very obvious fake,\u201d says Matthew Bain, a Miami-based watch expert who operates Matthew Bain, Inc<\/a>.<\/span><\/p>\n\n\n\n

But some counterfeits are not so obvious. Just last year<\/span> a group of imitation ceramic Rolex Submariners<\/a> snuck into the market. \u201cIf you didn\u2019t look at one next to the real one, and you just looked at it alone, you probably would not be able to tell it was fake,” Bain says. “A lot of people got burned.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n\n\n\n

As counterfeiting<\/span> technology and methods advance, understanding the intricacies of genuine Rolex watches becomes increasingly important for prospective buyers<\/a>. <\/span>Fake watches are a billion-dollar industry, with an estimated 30 million to 40 million introduced to the market each year, according to the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry<\/a><\/span>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Sometimes counterfeiters mix and match parts from genuine Rolex watches and fake ones, making distinguishing the two even more difficult. \u201cThey might get a real Rolex movement, and then they make a fake case around it. It\u2019s very hard to detect the originality of it,\u201d Bain explains.<\/span><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Only an expert \u2014 and luckily, 1stDibs has many \u2014 can really be trusted to determine whether or not a watch<\/a> is genuine. <\/span>Nevertheless, we\u2019ve compiled a list of 13 things you should look for in a real Rolex.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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1.<\/span><\/strong> Engraved Model and Serial Numbers<\/span><\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n
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\"Model<\/a><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

Genuine Rolex watches have their serial and model numbers deeply engraved into the metal between the lugs attaching the band to the body \u2014 whereas fakes often just have them etched on with acid. <\/span>The watch’s serial number, which can be used to determine its production date, is located on the six o\u2019clock side.<\/span><\/p>\n\n\n\n

On the 12 o\u2019clock side is the model number (also called the style or reference number), typically appearing below the text “ORIG ROLEX DESIGN.” To view the model and serial numbers, you have to take off the band<\/span>, using a pushpin or small paper clip to remove the pin that holds it in place.<\/span><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Counterfeiters often don\u2019t bother to vary the numbers, instead printing the same digits on each replica. <\/span>A simple Google search for the serial and model numbers of the watch you’re considering should reveal whether it is actually a mass-produced fake. \u201cMany times they will etch the wrong model number on a watch. For example, a Submariner<\/a> model number for a Yacht-Master<\/a>,\u201d says Abe Diveroli, of Primetime305<\/a>.<\/span><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Rolex has lately improved its numbering methodology. \u201cThe newer Rolexes have scrambled serials,\u201d says Diveroli<\/span>. \u201cYou could no longer date them without going to a Rolex dealer. Also, the serial numbers are now etched in the silver bezel under the crystal at the six o\u2019clock.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n\n\n\n

They also have \u201cRolex\u201d engraved on them, although the placement of the engraving differs depending on the piece.<\/span> Rolexes manufactured before 2007 included a hologram of the crown logo on the caseback. Because counterfeiters became so adept at copying it, Rolex discontinued the hologram. However, you can now be sure that any seller claiming that a watch with a hologram was made after 2007 is almost definitely peddling a replica.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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2. Self-Winding or Mechanical Movement<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"Rolex<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Rolex movements are self-winding and mechanical, as opposed to quartz or battery-powered. This is a bit tricky to check, since Rolex is adamant that only brand-certified watchmakers can access the movement.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

One caveat: Oysterquartz Rolexes<\/a> from the 1960s and 1970s were produced with quartz movements.<\/span><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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3. <\/span><\/strong>Clear and Even Text<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"The<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The dial of a Rolex is a prime spot for finding inconsistencies that might indicate a fake. This is where most of the writing is located, and the appearance of the text can be a dead giveaway of a counterfeit.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

All lettering on the face of a Rolex watch should have an exquisitely crisp appearance. It should be centered and perfectly aligned without inconsistent spacing, blurs, splotches or misspellings. A big red flag is ink bleeding, which results from the cheaper printing methods employed for Rolex replicas. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

From the Air King<\/a> to the Yachtmaster, Rolex watches have a consistent font style that\u2019s unique to the brand. Variations in the style are a good indication that the watch is fake. The font size may vary slightly, since it depends on the dial’s diameter, which can be as small as 24mm on women\u2019s Rolexes<\/a> and as large as 44mm on men\u2019s models<\/a>.
When checking the font on the face of a Rolex you’re considering, compare it with authentic pictures of the same model. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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4. <\/span><\/strong>A Cyclops That Actually Magnifies<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"Rolex<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The magnifying lens that enlarges the date on the face of the watch \u2014 dubbed the “Cyclops” \u2014 should, well, magnify (2.5 times, to be exact). Hold the watch sideways to get a peek at the date without the magnifying lens. If you\u2019re not certain that it appears bigger when looked at straight on, the watch is probably fake.<\/span><\/p>\n\n\n\n

The Cyclops on an authentic Rolex is convex \u2014 you can feel a bump when you run your finger over it \u2014 and it\u2019s centered over the date. If either of these criteria is not met, the piece may be of dubious authenticity. But another caveat: Some Rolex wearers prefer their watch without the Cyclops and remove it, so a previously owned piece without one may have simply been modified.<\/span><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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5. Waterproof<\/span>, Not Just Water Resistant<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"Rolex<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

This one is pretty self-explanatory. <\/span>“Waterproof” and “water resistant” both refer to an ability to keep moisture out of the case, with the former denoting higher performance underwater. The majority of Rolex watches in the Oyster line<\/a> should hold up at a whopping depth of 100 meters (328 feet).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

If a watch stops working while you\u2019re out for a swim, best to just leave that fake at the bottom of the sea.<\/span><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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6. <\/span>High-Quality Materials and Heavy Weight<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"A<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

As one of the most coveted<\/a> luxury watch brands in the world, Rolex uses only the most durable and high-quality materials<\/a>. Any authentic Rolex feels substantial and solid, whether it\u2019s made from the heavy-duty Oystersteel or the lighter-weight RLX Titanium or platinum. If a watch feels light or hollow, it may well be a fake.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The weights of Rolexes vary slightly, depending on the model, size, materials and year of production \u2014 older models generally weigh less than modern ones. But the weight difference between two real watches of the same model and size is negligible. In contrast, that between a fake and a genuine Rolex can be significant.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Here\u2019s how much some of the most popular Rolex watches weigh:<\/p>\n\n\n\n