{"id":332304,"date":"2019-05-01T18:23:34","date_gmt":"2019-05-01T22:23:34","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/?p=332304"},"modified":"2021-12-15T06:50:56","modified_gmt":"2021-12-15T11:50:56","slug":"zodiac-jewelry","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/zodiac-jewelry\/","title":{"rendered":"Dazzling Vintage Jewels for Every Zodiac Sign"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
\"Cartier<\/a>
Cartier ruby and gold zodiac link charm bracelet, 1970<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

During the disco days of the 1970s, the zodiac was as much a part of popular culture as the Watergate scandal, Saturday Night Fever<\/a><\/em> and Halston\u2019s ultrasuede wrap dresses<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cWhat\u2019s your sign?\u201d was not just a notorious pickup line during the period but a serious question, asked by people who felt passionately about horoscopes. The astrological fascination was prevalent enough that the most esteemed jewelry labels in Paris and New York \u2014 including Cartier<\/a>, Tiffany & Co.<\/a> and Van Cleef & Arpels<\/a> \u2014 created daytime gold jewelry incorporating zodiac symbols.
<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Although it reached its fashionable height during the 1970s, the zodiac trend began in the 1960s and is reflected throughout the latter part of the 20th century in fine jewelry ranging from over-the-top brooches and gigantic gold pendants to minimalist silver rings. These vintage pieces are currently experiencing a resurgence in popularity.
<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Why is the zodiac coming back into fashion? The answer may simply be that the stars are aligned: In uncertain times like these, people wear jewelry as a form of comfort. \u201cWearing one\u2019s sign is like wearing an amulet, a talisman, a personal thing,\u201d says Mahnaz Ispahani Bartos, of the Mahnaz Collection<\/a>. \u201cIt makes you feel connected to yourself and to a specific, if vast, earthly community.\u201d
<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Finding a great vintage piece representing a particular sign, however, can be a real treasure hunt. \u201cZodiacs are hard to design, because the subject is not always beautiful,\u201d says Amie Park, of Alice Kwartler Antiques<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Pisces, Leo and Cancer generally inspire the most stunning designs. In fact, almost any animal sign translates well into jewelry. In contrast, crafting figure signs, like Aquarius and Virgo, into attractive jewels is challenging. One workaround that has been successful is to create pieces that feature astrological glyphs instead of figures or that incorporate all the zodiac symbols and have a way for the jewels’ owners to mark theirs. See below for our favorite zodiac picks.
<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

CAPRICORN<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

December 22 \u2013 January 20<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"David<\/a>
David Webb enamel, ruby and diamond brooch, 1980s<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

American designer David Webb<\/a> made lots of jewelry inspired by the zodiac, including his signature daytime jewels. Beginning in the 1960s, he created enameled animal figures with gems for eyes and accenting other body parts. He also made bold gold astrological designs and gigantic gold pendants bearing zodiac glyphs.
<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

AQUARIUS <\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

January 20 \u2013 February 1<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Van<\/a>
Van Cleef & Arpels gold Aquarius pendant, 1970s<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Among vintage astrological jewels, some of the most coveted and hard to find today are the Van Cleef & Arpels<\/a> round zodiac pendants made during the 1970s. Modeled on ancient coins, they have zodiac signs on the front and the signs’ dates in Roman numerals on the back.
<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

PISCES <\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

February 19 \u2013 March 20<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Gold<\/a>
Gold Pisces pendant, 1910s<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

This rare zodiac pendant was designed by Edmond Henri Becker, one of the super-talents who worked for Boucheron<\/a> during the early years of the 20th century. \u201cIt is a solid heavy piece, and you can feel the hours and weeks and the technique that went into making it,\u201d says Park. \u201cIt is a nice rendering of the fish. They are not caricatured.\u201d
<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

ARIES <\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

March 21 \u2013 April 19<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Buccellati<\/a>
Buccellati sterling-silver Aries ring, 20th century<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The Italian jeweler Buccellati<\/a> applied the velvety finish that distinguishes its fine gold work to a series of silver zodiac pieces. \u201cIt is a lightweight design for a large dome-style ring, and the color and texture of the brushed sterling silver give it the brand\u2019s signature look,\u201d says Sasha Krivitsky, of OakGem<\/a>.
<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

TAURUS<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

April 20 \u2013 May 20<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Taurus<\/a>
Lapis lazuli and diamond Taurus brooch, ca. 1970<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Taurus lends itself to strong designs, but few make quite as big a statement as this sculptural lapis lazuli bull charging out of a circle of gold stars. Made in Italy during the 1970s, the dynamic creation is almost the size of your palm.
<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

GEMINI <\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

May 21 \u2013 June 21<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Elizabeth<\/a>
Elizabeth Gage enamel and gold Gemini cigar-band ring, ca. 2000<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The English jewelry designer Elizabeth Gage<\/a>\u2019s zodiac rings, which come in a range of colors, are inspired by cigar bands. \u201cThis ring is a great alternative to a big statement piece,\u201d says Jacob Gipsman, of Jacob\u2019s Diamond & Estate Jewelry<\/a>. \u201cWhen people look at this design, they don\u2019t even realize it is a zodiac until we tell them.\u201d
<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

CANCER<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

June 22 \u2013 July 21<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Tiffany<\/a>
Tiffany & Co. gold Cancer ring, 1960s<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Tiffany<\/a> zodiac rings, made during the 1960s and much sought after today, resemble signet rings with astrological signs in place of the usual seal or mongram. \u201cFunky and artistic\u201d is how Park describes the textured gold surface.
<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

LEO <\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

July 24 \u2013 August 23<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"David<\/a>
David Webb diamond, gold and platinum Leo pendant, 1960s<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

David Webb\u2019s supersize gold and enamel zodiac pendants are more than two inches wide. \u201cThis weighty Webb design centers on a diamond-studded glyph, which is such an elegantly flourishing design for Leo,\u201d says Ispahani Bartos. \u201cI love the textured look of the chased and hammered gold. It feels like gold in nature.\u201d
<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

VIRGO <\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

August 24 \u2013 September 22<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"H.G.<\/a>
H.G. Murphy sterling-silver Virgo brooch, ca. 1933<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The celebrated English silversmith H.G. Murphy created zodiac brooches during the 1930s. The Virgo figure in this geometrical Art Deco<\/a> design is similar in spirit to the Prometheus sculpture by Paul Manship that floats within a ring inscribed with zodiac signs, representing the heavens, in New York’s Rockefeller Center.
<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

LIBRA <\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

September 23 \u2013 October 22<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Sterling<\/a>
Sterling-silver Libra ring, ca. 1960<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

This wide silver band, made during the 1960s, features the glyph for Libra. \u201cThe design is modern and clean,\u201d says Park. \u201cIt really spoke to us because it is a minimalist interpretation of the zodiac.\u201d
<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

SCORPIO<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

October 23 \u2013 November 22<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Tiffany<\/a>
Tiffany & Co. gold Scorpio pendant, 1960s<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The chunky gold pendants made by Tiffany in the mid-1960s have sculpted zodiac figures on the front and glyphs on the back.
<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

SAGITTARIUS <\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

November 23 \u2013 December 20<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Fred<\/a>
Fred of Paris Sagittarius pendant, ca. 1970<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Sagittarius is notoriously difficult to craft into a jewel, but Fred of Paris<\/a> manages it magnificently in this piece from the firm’s 1970s zodiac collection. The collection’s bold designs were most likely conceived as unisex. \u201cThe Fred of Paris zodiacs are rectangular and a little tougher than the ones by Van Cleef & Arpels, so we often also sell these to men!\u201d says Leonore van der Waals, of Kunsthandel Inez Stodel<\/a>.
<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

During the disco days of the 1970s, the zodiac was as much a part of popular culture as the Watergate scandal, Saturday Night Fever and Halston\u2019s ultrasuede wrap dresses. \u201cWhat\u2019s your sign?\u201d was not just a notorious pickup line during the period but a serious question, asked by people who felt passionately about horoscopes. The […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":332315,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"apple_news_api_created_at":"","apple_news_api_id":"","apple_news_api_modified_at":"","apple_news_api_revision":"","apple_news_api_share_url":"","apple_news_cover_media_provider":"image","apple_news_coverimage":0,"apple_news_coverimage_caption":"","apple_news_cover_video_id":0,"apple_news_cover_video_url":"","apple_news_cover_embedwebvideo_url":"","apple_news_is_hidden":"","apple_news_is_paid":"","apple_news_is_preview":"","apple_news_is_sponsored":"","apple_news_maturity_rating":"","apple_news_metadata":"\"\"","apple_news_pullquote":"","apple_news_pullquote_position":"","apple_news_slug":"","apple_news_sections":[],"apple_news_suppress_video_url":false,"apple_news_use_image_component":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[15523143],"tags":[15550103,15549361,15549271,12049673,15531773,15550105,15549341,15550112,822,15550104,15550106,15550110,15549371,15550109,15550111,102,15549281,15549381,15550102,15550033,15550108,15549331,15549291,15549351,15549301,447763,13785143,15549311,15549241],"dibs-categories":[15565903],"dibs-designs":[],"dibs-styles":[],"dibs-creators":[],"dibs-sellers":[],"class_list":["post-332304","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-jewelry-2","tag-alice-kwartler-antiques","tag-aquarius","tag-aries","tag-art-deco","tag-boucheron","tag-buccellati","tag-cancer","tag-capiricorn","tag-cartier","tag-david-webb","tag-elizabeth-gage","tag-fred-of-paris","tag-gemini","tag-h-g-murphy","tag-inez-stodel","tag-jewelry","tag-leo","tag-libra","tag-mahanaz-collection","tag-marion-fasel","tag-oakgem","tag-pisces","tag-sagittarius","tag-scorpio","tag-taurus","tag-tiffany-co","tag-van-cleef-arpels","tag-virgo","tag-zodiac","dibs-categories-dibs-j"],"acf":{"post_format":"article","subtitle":"No matter what your horoscope says this month, you can delight in a beautiful representation of your astrological sign from the heyday of zodiac jewelry. ","interstitial_banners":false,"show_related_items_footer_popup":false,"slideshows":false,"show_date":false,"contributors":{"hide_byline":false,"columnist":[{"ID":361881,"post_author":"293","post_date":"2021-12-14 22:36:19","post_date_gmt":"2021-12-15 03:36:19","post_content":"\n

Marion Fasel is a jewelry historian, award-winning journalist and author of 11 books as well as The Adventurine<\/em><\/a> newsletter. The Wall Street Journal<\/em> called her book The History of Diamond Engagement Rings: A True Romance<\/em> \u201cone of the best coffee table books for 2026.\u201d She curated \u201cBeautiful Creatures: Jewelry Inspired by the Animal Kingdom\u201d at the American Museum of Natural History in 2021.<\/p>\n","post_title":"Marion Fasel","post_excerpt":"","post_status":"publish","comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","post_password":"","post_name":"marion-fasel","to_ping":"","pinged":"","post_modified":"2026-02-25 14:18:12","post_modified_gmt":"2026-02-25 19:18:12","post_content_filtered":"","post_parent":0,"guid":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/contributors\/marion-fasel\/","menu_order":0,"post_type":"contributors","post_mime_type":"","comment_count":"0","filter":"raw"}],"photographer":"","custom_byline":false}},"dibs_designs_tags":null,"dibs_sellers_tags":null,"dibs_creators_tags":null,"dibs_styles_tags":null,"dibs_categories_tags":["dibs-j"],"featured_image_url":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/5529141_master-640x450.jpg","post_title":"Dazzling Vintage Jewels for Every Zodiac 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