{"id":333032,"date":"2019-05-24T12:15:32","date_gmt":"2019-05-24T16:15:32","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/?p=333032"},"modified":"2021-12-15T06:49:14","modified_gmt":"2021-12-15T11:49:14","slug":"camp-fashion","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/camp-fashion\/","title":{"rendered":"You Saw It at the Met Ball. Here\u2019s What Camp Fashion Is Really About"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
\"Lupita
Lupita Nyong’o in a feathered ensemble by Versace at this year’s Met Gala celebrating “Camp: Notes on Fashion.” Photo by Theo Wargo\/WireImage<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

In the short time since the annual Met Gala and the debut of this year\u2019s Costume Institute<\/a> show, \u201cCamp: Notes on Fashion,\u201d fashion-related Google searches for “camp” have spiked to such an extent that the primary results no longer relate to s\u2019mores or the great outdoors but to sequins and feathers. This reflects something of an existential crisis: What, exactly, is<\/em> camp fashion?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

As the show illustrates, camp has been a fabulously festooned presence for centuries, from the absurdly opulent regalia of 17th-century courtiers to the bedazzled frocks on this season\u2019s runways. And unlike the items highlighted in other Costume Institute exhibitions of late, which have zeroed in on relatively niche themes like papal couture and otherworldly high-tech fabrications, camp fashion is readily available to be bought \u2014 and worn \u2014 today.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The show\u2019s heady concept, and its title, are derived from Susan Sontag\u2019s seminal 1964 essay \u201cNotes on \u2018Camp.\u2019 \u201d That may sound painfully intellectual, but camp is essentially a celebration of pure, pretense-free fun. As vintage dealer Christophe Azemar, of Le 6 Rue Paradis<\/a>, explains, going back to the word’s Gallic roots: \u201cThe French verb camper<\/em> means \u2018taking an assured or proud and provocative attitude.\u2019 For me, it\u2019s a philosophy, an intellectualization of frivolity and \u2014 why not? \u2014 a bit of bad taste.”<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Sontag gives numerous examples of the camp spirit, but the most definitive may be this: \u201cIt relishes, rather than judges, the little triumphs and awkward intensities of \u2018character.\u2019 . . . People who share this sensibility are not laughing at the thing they label as \u2018a camp,\u2019 they\u2019re enjoying it.\u201d Camp is about embracing the eccentric, an attitude fashion purveyor Ricky Serbin<\/a> sums up as \u201cLet the freak flags fly.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

For fashion collectors, the resulting look is their holy grail. Oh! Jackie<\/a>\u2019s Elisabeth Gerhold points to Elsa Schiaparelli<\/a>\u2019s surrealist pieces, like her iconic lobster dress from 1937, and Venetian brand Roberta di Camerino<\/a>\u2019s neo-Baroque stylings, such as its jersey dresses printed with trompe l\u2019oeil ruffles and pleats.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Bjork
Bj\u00f6rk in the infamous Swan dress by Marjan Pejoski at the 2001 Academy Awards. Photo by SGranitz\/WireImage<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Azemar cites the pieces of modern masters like Jean Paul Gaultier<\/a> and Thierry Mugler<\/a>, particularly Mugler\u2019s Spring 1997 collection of \u201cultra-feminine, extravagantly corseted silhouettes and parade of fantastical insect-like creatures.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Evolution<\/a>\u2019s Tony Tiemeyer asks, \u201cWhat could be more camp than Bjork\u2019s swan dress at the 2001 Academy Awards?\u201d Indeed, that infamously polarizing gown by Marjan Pejoski is one of the exhibition\u2019s highlights.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

One name that all vintage experts agree is synonymous with camp is Franco Moschino. The late designer shocked and titillated the \u201980s fashion elite with his whimsical, irreverent parodies of bourgeois finery. \u201cHe ridiculed the industry hierarchies,\u201d says Tiemeyer, noting that Moschino<\/a> embodied \u201ca counterpoint to the myth of what a designer should be, should do.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Whether emblazoning a sober blazer with smiley faces or embellishing a skirt suit with cutlery, Moschino rendered high style with a hearty wink. He himself famously said, \u201cIf you can\u2019t be elegant, at least be extravagant\u201d \u2014 words that, with all due respect to Sontag, epitomize the essence of camp.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/a>
Jeremy Scott for Moschino Couture chocolate bar gown, Fall 2014<\/a>, offered by Marilyn Glass<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Several of Moschino\u2019s canonical designs feature in the Met\u2019s exhibition, and many of the same pieces have been offered by 1stdibs dealers. For those on the hunt for museum-worthy duds, camp is ripe for collecting.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cCollectors of fashion seek the unusual, the extravagant, the theatrical . . . pieces that have shaped and changed the narrative of what fashion is supposed to be,\u201d says Tiemeyer. \u201cCamp is about experimentation, breaking rules, defying expectations.\u201d Like Basquiat<\/a> and Duchamp<\/a> in fine art, camp is fashion at its most collectible.<\/p>\n\n\n\t

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In the short time since the annual Met Gala and the debut of this year\u2019s Costume Institute show, \u201cCamp: Notes on Fashion,\u201d fashion-related Google searches for “camp” have spiked to such an extent that the primary results no longer relate to s\u2019mores or the great outdoors but to sequins and feathers. This reflects something of […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":333092,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"apple_news_api_created_at":"","apple_news_api_id":"","apple_news_api_modified_at":"","apple_news_api_revision":"","apple_news_api_share_url":"","apple_news_cover_media_provider":"image","apple_news_coverimage":0,"apple_news_coverimage_caption":"","apple_news_cover_video_id":0,"apple_news_cover_video_url":"","apple_news_cover_embedwebvideo_url":"","apple_news_is_hidden":"","apple_news_is_paid":"","apple_news_is_preview":"","apple_news_is_sponsored":"","apple_news_maturity_rating":"","apple_news_metadata":"\"\"","apple_news_pullquote":"","apple_news_pullquote_position":"","apple_news_slug":"","apple_news_sections":[],"apple_news_suppress_video_url":false,"apple_news_use_image_component":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[15522063],"tags":[15550182,15550183,15550181,15550187,5387813,15550196,15550192,2820383,10469443,15550180,15550184,15550193,15550191,1492,10469293,15550195,15550186,15550194,15550188,15550185,15550190,15550197],"dibs-categories":[15565983,15566134,15565982,15566133],"dibs-designs":[],"dibs-styles":[15566703],"dibs-creators":[15566813,15566812,15566862,15566864,15566861,15566863],"dibs-sellers":[],"class_list":["post-333032","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-fashion","tag-camp-notes-on-fashion","tag-christophe-azemar","tag-costume-institute","tag-elisabeth-gerhold","tag-elsa-schiaparelli","tag-evolution","tag-franco-moschino","tag-jean-paul-gaultier","tag-jean-michel-basquiat","tag-kareem-rashed","tag-le-6-rue-paradis","tag-marcel-duchamp","tag-marjan-pejoski","tag-met-gala","tag-metropolitan-museum-of-art","tag-notes-on-camp","tag-oh-jackie","tag-ricky-serbin","tag-roberta-di-camerino","tag-susan-sontag","tag-thierry-mugler","tag-tony-tiemeyer","dibs-categories-dibs-v_clo","dibs-categories-dibs-v_clo_sui_dre","dibs-categories-dibs-v","dibs-categories-dibs-v_clo_sui","dibs-styles-dibs-modern","dibs-creators-dibs-elsa-schiaparelli","dibs-creators-dibs-jean-paul-gaultier","dibs-creators-dibs-marjan-pejoski","dibs-creators-dibs-moschino","dibs-creators-dibs-roberta-di-camerino","dibs-creators-dibs-thierry-mugler"],"acf":{"post_format":"article","subtitle":"This year's Costume Institute exhibition is all about embracing the eccentric.","show_date":true,"interstitial_banners":[{"acf_fc_layout":"collection","interstitial_banner_shortcode":"camp-fashion","interstitial_banner_background_image":333085,"interstitial_banner_heading":"Browse Camp Fashion on 1stdibs","interstitial_banner_subheading":"","interstitial_banner_button_text":"Shop All","interstitial_banner_button_url":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/collections\/camp-fashion\/"}],"show_related_items_footer_popup":false,"slideshows":false,"contributors":{"hide_byline":false,"columnist":[{"ID":361901,"post_author":"1","post_date":"2021-12-14 22:36:25","post_date_gmt":"2021-12-15 03:36:25","post_content":"","post_title":"Kareem Rashed","post_excerpt":"","post_status":"publish","comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","post_password":"","post_name":"kareem-rashed","to_ping":"","pinged":"","post_modified":"2021-12-14 22:36:25","post_modified_gmt":"2021-12-15 03:36:25","post_content_filtered":"","post_parent":0,"guid":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/contributors\/kareem-rashed\/","menu_order":0,"post_type":"contributors","post_mime_type":"","comment_count":"0","filter":"raw"}],"photographer":"","custom_byline":false}},"dibs_designs_tags":null,"dibs_sellers_tags":null,"dibs_creators_tags":["dibs-elsa-schiaparelli","dibs-jean-paul-gaultier","dibs-marjan-pejoski","dibs-moschino","dibs-roberta-di-camerino","dibs-thierry-mugler"],"dibs_styles_tags":["dibs-modern"],"dibs_categories_tags":["dibs-v_clo","dibs-v_clo_sui_dre","dibs-v","dibs-v_clo_sui"],"featured_image_url":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/GettyImages-1147441893-640x450.jpg","post_title":"You Saw It at the Met Ball. 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