{"id":335328,"date":"2019-09-05T17:39:28","date_gmt":"2019-09-05T21:39:28","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/?p=335328"},"modified":"2021-12-15T06:37:35","modified_gmt":"2021-12-15T11:37:35","slug":"vintage-watches","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/vintage-watches\/","title":{"rendered":"Why Vintage Watches Are Making a Comeback"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
\"Art<\/a>
Art Deco Rolex wristwatch, 1937<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Everyone seems to have heart-shaped eyes for vintage watches right now \u2014 even watchmakers. Venerable brands including Patek Philippe<\/a>, Breitling<\/a> and Omega<\/a> have been mining their archives of late, reissuing mid-century models and resurrecting design elements with retro appeal.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Omega<\/a>
Omega oversize dress model wristwatch, ca. 1946<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

What\u2019s behind this swell of nostalgia? Industry insiders point to the growth of the secondary market for luxury timepieces, as well as sites, like the online magazine Hodinkee<\/em>, that cater to aficionados and collectors.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cThe influence of Hodinkee<\/em>, the rise in popularity of vintage watches<\/a> \u2014 and vintage Rolexes<\/a>, particularly \u2014 and the younger generation\u2019s embrace of these trends are the major driving forces,\u201d says Robert Weintraub, who manages Manfredi Jewels<\/a> in Greenwich, Connecticut.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The vogue also reflects an appreciation for the kind of details uncommon in contemporary watches and \u201cthe desire to have an individualized design personality,\u201d says Edward Faber, founder of Manhattan gallery Aaron Faber<\/a>. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

If you\u2019re intrigued by these throwbacks and their dapper good looks but don\u2019t know where to start, here are three keys to mastering vintage style.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

1. Take It Down a Notch<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"Vacheron<\/a>
Vacheron & Constantin automatic wristwatch, 1950s<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The large-scale, hypermasculine watches that dominated the market in the early 2000s are giving way to the subtler cases of earlier eras. \u201cThere is no doubt that the trend is for the more normal-size watch, 35mm, rather than the huge, clunky look that prevailed in the recent past,\u201d says Chris Kleanthous, of London\u2019s Kleanthous Antiques<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Even Panerai<\/a>, the Italian company whose name is synonymous with behemoths up to 50mm, has gone with the flow, debuting the 38mm Luminor Due \u2014 its first under-40mm design \u2014 last year.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cWatches became ridiculously big,\u201d says Ken Jacobs, the owner of Wanna Buy a Watch?<\/a>, in West Hollywood. \u201cIt was show-offy and fun, but inspired by aviators\u2019 watches or divers\u2019 watches, which were intentionally built large for function, operation and visibility.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cThese were adventurers\u2019 watches \u2014 rugged, macho watches for sportsmen and those identifying with such pursuits. But 42mm cases that won\u2019t fit under a suit jacket and look like a billboard on your wrist have generally lost their appeal.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cMen\u2019s 31 to 36mm models are now popular women\u2019s sizes<\/a>\u201d as well, Jacobs adds. \u201cPetite and feminine are no longer what women are looking for in their watches.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

2. Award Points for Style<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"Patek
Patek Philippe 1589R jumbo Calatrava watch, ca. 1954<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Old-school design flourishes are making a comeback too. \u201cDefinitely sculpted, decorative lugs and a thin, flat profile,\u201d Faber says. Dial colors that hark back to the 1950s, such as salmon and silver, are experiencing a revival, as are watch faces with a cleaner, less complicated look. \u201cReadability is the predominant quality, trending toward uncluttered dials,\u201d Faber notes.

Arabic (instead of Roman) numerals and retro fonts give pieces a period feel. So does patina, or the faded or worn look that a surface develops over time. Once considered a flaw, the right patina is now sought after by collectors. \u201cIn recent years, we have seen a lot of [new] watches with beige hands and markers, sometimes referred to as fauxtina,\u201d Weintraub says.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

3. Seek Authenticity<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"ongines<\/a>
Longines manual<\/a> military chronograph, 1933<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Whether you\u2019re considering a new watch with a vintage look or shopping for an older piece, it\u2019s hard to go wrong with a brand or a model rooted in a compelling history. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Weintraub cites the Longines<\/a> Heritage Military watch, released in 2018, as a prime example. \u201cIt is a vintage-inspired reedition of the Longines 6B\/159 Ref. 4830, made for the British Royal Air Force in the 1940s,\u201d he explains. \u201cWhat made this stand out is that it has a hand-painted dial that looks aged instead of just hands and markers. It looks almost identical to the vintage watch except for the size, which is 38.5mm instead of the 32mm of the original. This is a great example of a vintage reissue done right!\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

For Kleanthous, \u201cthe originals are the most exciting.\u201d They\u2019re also often more affordable than comparable new models. But caveat emptor: \u201cThis is a very specialized field, and you are dealing with a mechanical item as well as a fashion piece,\u201d says Kleanthous. \u201cIt is therefore imperative that you buy from a trusted source, as there is much skullduggery that goes on in this field.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The most important consideration, however, is whether it feels authentic to who you are. According to Faber, matters of individual preference, like the color of the metal or the comfort of the size on your wrist, ultimately take precedence. Weintraub echoes this sentiment. When selecting a vintage timepiece, the deciding factors should be \u201chow it fits with your personal style and how it complements your watch wardrobe,\u201d he says. \u201cYou have to love it!\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\t

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\n\t\t\t\t\t\tBrowse More 20th-Century Watches\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\tShop All<\/span>\n\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n\n\n\n\n


<\/p>\n\n\n\n


<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Everyone seems to have heart-shaped eyes for vintage watches right now \u2014 even watchmakers. Venerable brands including Patek Philippe, Breitling and Omega have been mining their archives of late, reissuing mid-century models and resurrecting design elements with retro appeal. What\u2019s behind this swell of nostalgia? Industry insiders point to the growth of the secondary market 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