{"id":335561,"date":"2019-09-10T18:31:53","date_gmt":"2019-09-10T22:31:53","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/?p=335561"},"modified":"2021-12-15T06:37:13","modified_gmt":"2021-12-15T11:37:13","slug":"next-level-pearls","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/next-level-pearls\/","title":{"rendered":"Next-Level Pearls That Go Well Beyond the Expected"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
\"Fei<\/a>
Fei Liu drop earrings with baroque pearls and diamonds<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Called the queen of gems, the demure pearl often feels more like the ingenue of the jewelry world, a signifier of innocence, purity, modesty and decorum. But in the past several seasons, the treasure of the sea has broken out of its conservative shell.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Contemporary designers have been experimenting with unusual shapes, colors and treatments, pushing pearl jewelry beyond the traditional strand of perfect white spheres. In an April Instagram post<\/a>, the jewelry brand Coomi<\/a> promoted an upcoming trunk show, writing, \u201cIt\u2019s no surprise that the classic pearl is on fashion\u2019s radar for 2019, but the interesting updates to this iconic gem are what has designers like Coomi standing apart from the crowd.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cWe always tend to look for things that are imperfect or mismatched, highlighting the imperfections instead of trying to conceal them,\u201d says Sahil Bhasin, president of the New Jersey\u2013based company and son of its founder, Coomi Bhasin. \u201cMost of our pieces are asymmetrical,” he notes. “The irregular and rough shape of baroque pearls plays perfectly into these designs.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Coomi<\/a>
Coomi golden South Sea pearl earrings<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

\u201cThe trend to use pearls in a newly creative fashion was born years ago, when important houses and designers started combining pearls with colored stones, though traditionally they were always paired with diamonds,\u201d says Talila Gafter, CEO of New York\u2013based Ella Gafter <\/a>and daughter of the company\u2019s eponymous designer. \u201cElla Gafter was certainly a pioneer in working with that combination.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cThe larger design houses, like Chanel<\/a> and Dior<\/a>, incorporate pearls into their jewelry and have done so since the \u201990s,\u201d confirms Siobhan O\u2019Neill, of London\u2019s Sweet Pea Fine Jewellery<\/a>, who began her career during that period, creating pieces for the era\u2019s young upstarts, like John Galliano<\/a> and Alexander McQueen<\/a>. \u201cIt\u2019s just taken a while to filter down to other brands.”<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Sweet
Sweet Pea Fine Jewellery faceted pearl set in an 18-karat yellow-gold ring<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

\u201cAs fashion has become more casual, there\u2019s been a renewed interest in the baroque types of pearls,\u201d observes Michael Kneebone, of Palm Desert, California\u2013based Michael K. Jewels<\/a>, whose work showcases the breadth of pearl shapes and hues. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cInterest in colored gemstones has increased dramatically, and so too has interest in colored pearls,\u201d Kneebone continues. \u201cAnd as new and improved cultivation techniques are developed, exciting new colors, shapes and sizes emerge. People find them endlessly fascinating.\u201d <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Michael<\/a>
Michael Kneebone tile pearl white diamond 18 karat gold dangle earrings<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Bhasin and others in the trade believe this fascination is more than a passing fancy. \u201cWe expect the trend to not only continue but to get stronger as time goes on,\u201d says Bhasin, who adds that the gem also has a role to play in environmental stability. \u201cThe oceans have been overfished, polluted, and many coral reefs completely decimated. Pearl farming with oysters not only helps clean the oceans but produces beautiful and timeless pearls that can be enjoyed by future generations.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Here are some of the varieties refreshing the category and making pearl jewelry more compelling, wearable and avant-garde than ever. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

Metallic <\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"Yoko<\/a>
YOKO London baroque freshwater pearl and diamond bracelet and necklace<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Most pearls have a satiny luster, but a small number have a bright shine that looks uncannily metallic. The orient, or iridescent cast, possessed by many pearls, whatever their color, heightens the effect. \u201cWe are very keen on metallic luster, especially in pink freshwater pearls,\u201d says Michael Hakimian, CEO of YOKO London<\/a>, one of the first companies to explore the pearl color spectrum beyond white and black, introducing unexpected shades like pistachio and chocolate. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

Fireball<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"Scarab
Scarab cluster pearl and diamond necklace<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

This distinctive type of baroque pearl<\/a> has a round body with a flowing tail, giving it the appearance of a fireball or comet streaking through the atmosphere and lighting up the sky with its glow.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

Souffl\u00e9<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"Lilly<\/a>
Lilly Hastedt moonstone and Ming freshwater pearl earrings<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

These airy confections are the Stay Puft marshmallow counterparts of the classic round pearl. They\u2019re known for both their pillowy shapes and their shimmering luster.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

Ripple<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"Emilio!<\/a>
Emilio! South Sea multistrand necklace<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Named for their uneven surface, ripple pearls were once rejected because of their wrinkles. But as we know, wrinkles are a sign of character, far more intriguing than a flawless finish. Today, these pearls are valued for their distinctive look, while also drawing attention for their sometimes striking metallic colors.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

Circle <\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"AB<\/a>
AB Jewelry NYC Tahitian pearl link necklace<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Perfectly parallel ridges make this variety special. Tahitian circle pearls<\/a> are especially sought after, because of their richly colored furrows.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

Keshi <\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"Yvel<\/a>
Yvel keshi stick pearl and diamond brooch<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

A typical pearl\u2019s round body is created when an oyster or mussel reacts to a bit of foreign material inside its shell, coating it in concentric layers of crystalline nacre. Keshi pearls, however, are formed without centers, yielding a variety of fanciful shapes. Because they\u2019re nacre through and through, they also possess a very high luster. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

Faceted<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"Sweet<\/a>
Sweet Pea faceted pearl set in an 18k yellow-gold ring<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Some designers, like O\u2019Neill, are carving the surfaces of their pearls with gemlike facets. At Sweet Pea, \u201cfacets are applied to either freshwater, South Sea or Tahitian pearls with a special laser process,\u201d she explains. \u201cThis is a unique and quite skilled process, and it\u2019s kept a close secret by the professional faceters.\u201d According to O\u2019Neill, it\u2019s worth the effort. \u201cI love the reflections you can get with faceted pearls,\u201d she says. \u201cI think it makes them come alive.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

Gem-Set <\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"Ella<\/a>
Ella Gafter golden pearl and diamond ring with yellow sapphires<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Another innovation is dotting a large pearl with smaller gemstones. The technique is risky \u2014 \u201cCutting the nacre weakens the molecular structure,\u201d Hakimian warns. The results, however, can be stunning. To purists, it may seem like gilding the lily. But even a natural beauty might want to embrace an edgy new look now and then.<\/p>\n\n\n\t

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\n\t\t\t\t\t\tFind More Pearl Jewelry on 1stdibs\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t
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Called the queen of gems, the demure pearl often feels more like the ingenue of the jewelry world, a signifier of innocence, purity, modesty and decorum. But in the past several seasons, the treasure of the sea has broken out of its conservative shell. Contemporary designers have been experimenting with unusual shapes, colors and treatments, 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