{"id":337803,"date":"2020-01-22T10:49:19","date_gmt":"2020-01-22T15:49:19","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/?p=337803"},"modified":"2021-12-15T06:23:35","modified_gmt":"2021-12-15T11:23:35","slug":"cartier-facts","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/cartier-facts\/","title":{"rendered":"7 Things You Probably Didn\u2019t Know about Cartier"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
\"Fashion<\/a>
Fashion in Colour \u2014 Jewelry by Cartier, American <\/a><\/em>Vogue<\/a> Cover<\/a><\/em>, 1942, by Horst P. Horst<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

As a sixth-generation descendant of Louis-Fran\u00e7ois Cartier, who founded his eponymous Parisian maison<\/a> in 1847, Francesca Cartier Brickell<\/a> was just the person to write the definitive book on the firm\u2019s historical origins and rise to acclaim. The new book <\/em>The Cartiers: The Untold Story of the Family Behind the Jewelry Empire<\/em> (Ballantine Books)<\/a> is based on a long-lost family archive and extensive recorded interviews with Brickell\u2019s late grandfather Jean-Jacques Cartier. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

A decade of work sorting through and compiling the copious correspondence, notebook drawings, diary entries and other discoveries gleaned from her independent research has resulted in a robust, scholarly volume filled with fascinating anecdotes, astute observations and compelling photography. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Cartier<\/a>
Cartier Love 10-diamond bangle bracelet, 2010s<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

One of the book\u2019s most enlightening revelations is how much of the firm\u2019s success is attributable to the collaborative efforts of Louis-Fran\u00e7ois\u2019s three grandsons \u2014 brothers Louis, Pierre and Jacques \u2014 who together built a world-class jewelry brand at the turn of the 20th century and fostered it through the Art Deco period<\/a> and beyond. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Savvy Cartier<\/a> collectors are likely to be most familiar with Louis, the creative talent who helmed the Paris operation, and Pierre, who conquered the American market with grace, aplomb and marketing genius (hello, Hope Diamond<\/a>).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

But, as Brickell points out, equally important contributions were made by Jacques, her great-grandfather, who ran Cartier London, traveled to India to source the highest quality gemstones and looked after Cartier\u2019s very important relationships with the maharajas of the day. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Here are seven more facts illuminated in the book that may surprise you.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

1. The founder came from humble beginnings<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"Cartier<\/a>
Cartier Edwardian yellow enamel minute repeater pendulette, ca. 1900<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The Cartier brand is synonymous with luxury, but the firm\u2019s founder was born into poverty. One of six children, he lived in the Marais, then an overcrowded and disease-ridden area of Paris. As Brickell writes, \u201cWith a mother who was a washer woman, and a father a metal worker, Louis-Fran\u00e7ois Cartier\u2019s working-class upbringing was about as far removed from diamonds and pearls as it was possible to be.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Although the jewelry apprenticeship Louis-Francois\u2019s father arranged for him was an auspicious first step toward establishing his glittering legacy, the training was grueling, requiring him to toil alongside other young workers 15 hours a day in a shop overseen by a whip-wielding foreman. The champagne would not flow until many, many decades later. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

2. <\/em>A famous courtesan\u2019s jewelry collection saved the business<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"Cartier<\/a>
Cartier emerald and diamond brooch, late 19th century<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

France\u2019s defeat in the Franco-Prussian War (1870\u201371), nearly devastated Cartier, which at that point was helmed by Louis-Fran\u00e7ois and his son Alfred. With their aristocratic clients impoverished or in exile, Brickell points out, they frequently relied on \u201cthe patronage of the grandes horizontales<\/em>, as the Parisian courtesans were known.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

When La Barucci, the self-proclaimed \u201cnumber one whore in Paris,\u201d died of tuberculosis, Alfred contacted her heirs and offered to sell her jewels (worth hundreds of thousands of francs) for a five percent commission in England, which was unaffected by the war. This arrangement helped the business stay afloat during a time of financial crisis. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

3.<\/strong> <\/em><\/strong>Its jewels were sold at Charles Frederick Worth in the 1870s<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/a>
Cartier platinum jabot pin, ca. 1905<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Known as the Father of Haute Couture, the English fashion designer Charles Frederick Worth was a contemporary of Louis-Fran\u00e7ois Cartier. For a small commission, Worth allowed a selection of Cartier jewels to be displayed in the showroom window of his Paris atelier, prime real estate that offered valuable access to European aristocrats and visiting American heiresses. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Interestingly, the relationship between the two families went beyond business: Louis Cartier wed Worth\u2019s granddaughter Andr\u00e9e-Caroline Worth in 1898. In 1907, Suzanne Cartier, Louis\u2019s sister, married Jacques Worth, Andr\u00e9e-Caroline\u2019s cousin.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

4. Louis Cartier was a heartbreaker<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"Cartier<\/a>
Cartier Santos Galbee W20099C4, 2009<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Louis is widely regarded as the Cartier family\u2019s creative genius, with some of the house\u2019s most iconic designs to his credit, including the Santos<\/a> and Tank watches<\/a>, the Mystery clocks<\/a> and myriad jewels made of platinum<\/a>, a metal no one used for jewelry at the time. He was also wildly good-looking and charming and spent a great deal of time at the posh Parisian hotspot Maxim\u2019s, even calling it his second office.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cMaxim\u2019s was the type of place where wealthy married men met their mistresses, so the possibilities of jewelry commissions abounded,\u201d Brickell explains \u2014 but it wasn’t just about business: It was also there that Louis met the love of his life, Jeanne Toussaint. Recently divorced from Andr\u00e9e-Caroline, she writes, \u201cLouis was spellbound. Jeanne didn\u2019t have a title, she wasn\u2019t as classically pretty as many of the women he courted, but she intrigued him.\u201d <\/p>\n\n\n\n

And even when Toussaint\u2019s friend Coco Chanel<\/a> warned her of Louis\u2019s playboy reputation, \u201cJeanne couldn\u2019t keep herself from falling for him.\u201d The two remained lovers for some time, but his family disapproved of her past as a demimondaine. <\/em>In 1924, Louis married the Hungarian countess Jacqueline Alm\u00e1sy. As for the jilted Toussaint, in 1933, she became Cartier\u2019s artistic director of high jewelry, establishing a legacy all her own.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

5. The Panth\u00e8re story doesn\u2019t begin with Jeanne Toussaint<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"Cartier<\/a>
Panth\u00e8re de Cartier brooch, late 20th century<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

To be sure, Cartier\u2019s most famous artistic director helped perfect and popularize the brand\u2019s iconic onyx and diamond Panth\u00e8re<\/a> motif, but the book suggests that the company\u2019s affinity for the animal predates her tenure. Panthers appear on vanity cases, jabots and tie pins around 1917, as well as in the sketchbooks of one of Cartier\u2019s early designers, Charles Jacqueau.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

According to the author, her grandfather circled an illustration of the panther Bagheera in a copy of Rudyard Kipling\u2019s The Jungle Book<\/em>. \u201cThe image would mix with many others over the years, all secret ingredients in the creation of Cartier\u2019s bejeweled panthers,\u201d she writes. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

6. <\/em>That famous pearl necklace resold for a fraction of its original price<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"Cartier<\/a>
Cartier diamond and pearls necklace, ca. 1960s<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Every Cartier aficionado knows about the 1917 real estate \u201cdeal of the century\u201d in which Pierre Cartier traded a double-strand of natural pearls, then valued at a million dollars, for a Manhattan townhouse owned by American railroad tycoon Morton Freeman Plant \u2014 the storied 653 Fifth Avenue property that still serves as the location of Cartier\u2019s U.S. headquarters.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

But even though natural pearls fetch a king\u2019s ransom at auction nowadays, this was not the case in the 1950s, when, upon Mrs. Maisie Plant\u2019s death, the famous pearl necklace sold for a measly $150,000. As for the Cartier mansion, it recently underwent a lavish renovation \u2014 complete with a restored Maisie Plant salon on the ground floor \u2014 and is said to be worth billions.
<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

7. The Cartiers befriended their competitors <\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"Cartier<\/a>
Cartier fancy yellow diamonds two-headed tiger bangle, 1980s<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

\u201cThe Cartiers tended to get along with their peers,\u201d according to a direct recollection by Jean-Jacques included in the book. “You see, we were in the same boat, shopkeepers to important clients. You just need to look through my father\u2019s address book and correspondence to see how many jewelers he was friends with. The Faberg\u00e9s<\/a> are in there, the Van Cleefs, the Arpels<\/a>, Charles Moore from Tiffany<\/a> . . . some were even linked by marriage at some point to the extended family.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"The<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

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\n\t\t\t\t\"\"\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t
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\n\t\t\t\t\t\tBrowse All Cartier Jewels\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\tShop Now<\/span>\n\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

As a sixth-generation descendant of Louis-Fran\u00e7ois Cartier, who founded his eponymous Parisian maison in 1847, Francesca Cartier Brickell was just the person to write the definitive book on the firm\u2019s historical origins and rise to acclaim. The new book The Cartiers: The Untold Story of the Family Behind the Jewelry Empire (Ballantine Books) is based […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":337994,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"apple_news_api_created_at":"","apple_news_api_id":"","apple_news_api_modified_at":"","apple_news_api_revision":"","apple_news_api_share_url":"","apple_news_cover_media_provider":"image","apple_news_coverimage":0,"apple_news_coverimage_caption":"","apple_news_cover_video_id":0,"apple_news_cover_video_url":"","apple_news_cover_embedwebvideo_url":"","apple_news_is_hidden":"","apple_news_is_paid":"","apple_news_is_preview":"","apple_news_is_sponsored":"","apple_news_maturity_rating":"","apple_news_metadata":"\"\"","apple_news_pullquote":"","apple_news_pullquote_position":"","apple_news_slug":"","apple_news_sections":[],"apple_news_suppress_video_url":false,"apple_news_use_image_component":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[15523143],"tags":[15550746,12049673,15550750,822,15550748,3433563,15550754,15550751,15550428,15550753,15550747,15550752,15550749],"dibs-categories":[15565903],"dibs-designs":[],"dibs-styles":[],"dibs-creators":[15566429],"dibs-sellers":[],"class_list":["post-337803","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-jewelry-2","tag-amy-elliott","tag-art-deco","tag-ballantine-books","tag-cartier","tag-francesca-cartier-brickell","tag-hope-diamond","tag-jacques-cartier","tag-jean-jacques-cartier","tag-jewelery","tag-jewels","tag-louis-francois-cartier","tag-pierre-cartier","tag-the-cartiers-the-untold-story-of-the-family-behind-the-jewelry-empire","dibs-categories-dibs-j","dibs-creators-dibs-cartier"],"acf":{"post_format":"article","subtitle":"Get to know the family behind the iconic jewelry house.","show_date":true,"interstitial_banners":[{"acf_fc_layout":"collection","interstitial_banner_shortcode":"cartier","interstitial_banner_background_image":337999,"interstitial_banner_heading":"Browse All Cartier Jewels","interstitial_banner_subheading":"","interstitial_banner_button_text":"Shop Now","interstitial_banner_button_url":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/creators\/cartier\/jewelry\/"}],"show_related_items_footer_popup":false,"slideshows":false,"contributors":{"hide_byline":false,"columnist":[{"ID":361857,"post_author":"293","post_date":"2021-12-14 22:36:15","post_date_gmt":"2021-12-15 03:36:15","post_content":"\n

Amy Elliott is a freelance writer who specializes in fine jewelry. A lively presence in the editorial community for more than two decades, she has held senior staff positions at the Knot<\/em>, Brides<\/em> and Lucky<\/em> magazines, was the engagement rings expert at About.com and currently writes jewelry stories for an array of print and online media, including JCK<\/em> (where she is a contributing editor), the Zing Report<\/em> and the New York Times<\/em>. Her byline has also appeared in DuJour<\/em>, Galerie<\/em>, Martha Stewart Weddings<\/em>, Wynn<\/em>, Gotham<\/em> and Hamptons<\/em>, among other publications.<\/p>\n","post_title":"Amy Elliott","post_excerpt":"","post_status":"publish","comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","post_password":"","post_name":"amy-elliott","to_ping":"","pinged":"","post_modified":"2025-09-03 16:23:37","post_modified_gmt":"2025-09-03 20:23:37","post_content_filtered":"","post_parent":0,"guid":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/contributors\/amy-elliott\/","menu_order":0,"post_type":"contributors","post_mime_type":"","comment_count":"0","filter":"raw"}],"photographer":"","custom_byline":false}},"dibs_designs_tags":null,"dibs_sellers_tags":null,"dibs_creators_tags":["dibs-cartier"],"dibs_styles_tags":null,"dibs_categories_tags":["dibs-j"],"featured_image_url":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/AV0026_master-640x450.jpg","post_title":"7 Things You Probably Didn\u2019t Know about Cartier","fimg_url":{"thumbnail":{"source_url":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/AV0026_master-95x120.jpg","width":95,"height":120},"medium":{"source_url":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/AV0026_master-276x350.jpg","width":276,"height":350},"full":{"source_url":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/AV0026_master.jpg","width":768,"height":975}},"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/AV0026_master.jpg","apple_news_notices":[],"yoast_head":"\n7 Things You Probably Didn\u2019t Know about Cartier | The Study<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Get to know the family behind the iconic jewelry house.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" 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