{"id":339177,"date":"2020-02-20T17:44:27","date_gmt":"2020-02-20T22:44:27","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/?p=339177"},"modified":"2022-10-27T11:27:03","modified_gmt":"2022-10-27T15:27:03","slug":"hermes-kelly-bag","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/hermes-kelly-bag\/","title":{"rendered":"How to Spot a Real Herm\u00e8s Kelly Bag"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
\"red<\/a>
Fashion blogger Alexandra Lapp carries a red Herm\u00e8s Kelly bag<\/a>. Photo by Getty Images Europe<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

\u201cLike kids in an ice-cream shop\u201d is how Edith Head remembered her visits to Herm\u00e8s<\/a> Paris with her buddy Grace Kelly<\/a>. It was the summer of 1954, and the costume designer and the movie star were working together on To Catch a Thief<\/em>, Alfred Hitchcock\u2019s elegant caper set on the French Riviera.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Was it at this mecca on the Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honor\u00e9 that Kelly was introduced to the bag that would ultimately carry her name? Back then, it was known as the Sac \u00e0 d\u00e9p\u00eache, and Kelly was just an actress, not yet a princess. Time does change things.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Founded in 1837 as a crafter of equestrian gear for aristocrats, Herm\u00e8s was nicely aligned with Kelly\u2019s classic style and blue blood lineage. Like most of the storied house\u2019s pieces<\/a>, this iconic design boasts an evolution that reads like a timeline of good living.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The Haut \u00e0 courroies<\/a>, Herm\u00e8s\u2019s original top-handled bag<\/a>, was created in 1892 to carry boots and a harness. In 1923, it was modified for the wife of automobile magnate Ettore Bugatti to fit into a car\u2019s side pocket. This design was called Torpedo No 1. Robert Dumas-Herm\u00e8s redesigned it again in 1935, making it smaller, adding a belt and naming it the Sac \u00e0 d\u00e9p\u00eaches<\/a>. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Herm\u00e8s<\/a>
Herm\u00e8s Crocodile Kelly 25 bag<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

\u201cIn the age of travel, women needed a bag that was easy and safe to carry,\u201d says Graham Wetzbarger, certified appraiser and authenticator. The Sac \u00e0 d\u00e9p\u00eaches fit the bill. In addition to a strap, \u201cit had a top handle so it could be worn in the crook of the arm, and it had a lock for security,\u201d Wetzbarger explains, noting that it also conveyed decorum. \u201cIt had a rigid back that stood on its own and didn\u2019t flop over. There is a formality and rigidity that says you are an orderly, proper woman.\u201d <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

Debunking the Herm\u00e8s Kelly Bag Origin Story<\/h2>\n\n\n
\n
\"Grace<\/a>
Prince Rainier and Grace Kelly, carrying an Herm\u00e8s Kelly bag, at the announcement of their engagement in 1956. Photo by Howard Sochurek\/The LIFE Picture Collection via Getty Images<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

From 1955 onward, Grace Kelly was frequently spotted carrying her Sac \u00e0 d\u00e9p\u00eaches. Had Instagram<\/a> been around in those days, #Kellysac would have included images of the star and her bag at the Cannes Film Festival and during the 1955 announcement of her engagement to Prince Rainier of Monaco. It would have included pics of Kelly and her bag on her royal honeymoon, and, yes, it would even have included images of the new princess using her bag to hide an emerging baby bump. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

What you wouldn\u2019t have seen, however, is that picture of the princess and the baby bump on the cover of Life<\/em> magazine. Many sources still cite this cover as the one that immortalized Kelly\u2019s association with the handbag. In fact, \u201cno such cover appears to exist,\u201d remarked the curators of a 2010 V&A<\/a> exhibition, “Grace Kelly Style.\u201d While the actress appeared on four Life<\/em> covers, her Sac \u00e0 d\u00e9p\u00eaches appears on exactly zero. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Sac<\/a>
Herm\u00e8s Kelly 32 bag, picnic edition<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

As it turns out, Kelly and her bag didn\u2019t need a magazine cover. She was a superstar marrying a prince, and her photo was everywhere. By 1956, replicas of the \u201cGrace Kelly handbag\u201d were best sellers in America and Britain. By 1960, the Sac \u00e0 d\u00e9p\u00eaches had become a status symbol and was better known as the Kelly<\/a>. In 1977, Herm\u00e8s made the name change official.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

What Makes a Herm\u00e8s Kelly Bag Special?<\/h2>\n\n\n
\n
\"Hermes<\/a>
An employee works on a Kelly bag at an Herm\u00e8s<\/a> workshop in southwestern France. Photo by Mehdi Fedouach\/AFP via Getty Images<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

Is it any surprise that Herm\u00e8s\u2019s description of the Kelly (with some quick reformatting) reads like poetry?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cthirty-six leather pieces \/ assembled by a craftsman \/ devoted to beautiful, noble gestures, \/ six hundred and eighty hand stitches, \/ sixteen small studs, \/ a padlock, \/ a swivel clasp \/ and a leather key cover or clochette.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"Hermes
A sampling of Janet’s 102-piece Herm\u00e8s handbag<\/a> collection<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

For devotees, the Herm\u00e8s classic has a visual poetry and meaning that transcends the bag itself. \u201cThe Kelly silhouette has been repeated by brands like Chanel<\/a>, Ferragamo<\/a>, Valextra<\/a> and Gucci<\/a>,\u201d says Wetzbarger. “That says something about its iconic shape. It\u2019s more important as an example of good design than as an example of social iconography<\/a>, like the Birkin<\/a>.\u201d <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cI love to look at them,\u201d says Janet, who has a collection of 102 Herm\u00e8s bags<\/a> and asked that we not use her last name lest her Herm\u00e8s sales associate think she has too many. \u201cIt\u2019s an addiction,\u201d she admits, adding that she still finds beauty in the ritual of unveiling.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cSomething comes over me when I first experience a new bag,” Janet continues. “When sales associates say, \u2018I have something to show you, \u2019 they don\u2019t usually tell you what color or style you\u2019ll be looking at. When they bring it out and present it, it\u2019s like a chorus begins singing in my head. It\u2019s a surreal feeling.\u201d <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

Sellier or Retourne?<\/h2>\n\n\n
\n
\"Herm\u00e8s<\/a>
From left, an Herm\u00e8s Kelly Sellier 28 bag<\/a> and Kelly Retourne 28 bag<\/a> <\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

There are two types of Kelly bags, Sellier<\/a> and Retourne<\/a>. The difference is in the construction. Sellier Kellys are structured and geometric. The top stitching is visible. The edges are sharply defined and finished with resin. Formal and elegant, the Sellier was Grace Kelly\u2019s preferred style. Retourne Kellys tend to be more casual. Because they are turned inside-out after sewing, topstitching is not visible, and the edges are soft and finished with piping. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cThe Sellier Kelly is the classic, the OG,\u201d says Wetzbarger. \u201cThe Retourne Kelly is known to get slouchy and collapse on itself with age. A Sellier is never going to do that. If you\u2019re presenting these trophies in your walk-in closet, the Sellier will always stand with pride, as opposed to your Retourne, which you\u2019ll have to lay down to sleep.\u201d <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

Caring for Your Herm\u00e8s Kelly Bag<\/h2>\n\n\n
\n
\"Hermes<\/a>
Herm\u00e8s Kelly Sellier 28 bag with a Twilly scarf around the handle<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

When necessary, send your bag to the Herm\u00e8s spa, where it will be professionally restored. Janet discovered that rather than cleaning handles, the restorers generally replace them \u2014 so keeping the handle of your Kelly pristine by wrapping it with a Twilly scarf<\/a> is a smart idea. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cHerm\u00e8s really stands behind its work. If you have a bag with an issue, they want to fix it,\u201d she says. And details matter. \u201cI lost a lock and key, and I had to go in and show them the purse before I could replace it.\u201d Why? \u201cThey wanted to make sure they had the correct dye lot for the clochette.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

She displays her collection on specially designed shelving, her \u201cunicorns\u201d kept safe in Lucite boxes<\/a> at top. To help them keep their shape, she uses 7 Rue Paradis inserts, which she believes are sturdier than the ones Herm\u00e8s sells. The upkeep is worth it, as the value of a well-cared for Kelly increases over time. As Janet puts it, \u201cIt\u2019s like investing in a GIA-certified diamond<\/a>.\u201d <\/p>\n\n\n\n\t

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\n\t\t\t\t\t\tShop Herm\u00e8s Kelly Bags on 1stdibs\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\tView All<\/span>\n\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

\u201cLike kids in an ice-cream shop\u201d is how Edith Head remembered her visits to Herm\u00e8s Paris with her buddy Grace Kelly. It was the summer of 1954, and the costume designer and the movie star were working together on To Catch a Thief, Alfred Hitchcock\u2019s elegant caper set on the French Riviera. 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