{"id":340324,"date":"2020-05-01T14:30:00","date_gmt":"2020-05-01T18:30:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/?p=340324"},"modified":"2021-12-15T06:10:51","modified_gmt":"2021-12-15T11:10:51","slug":"chanel-jacket","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/chanel-jacket\/","title":{"rendered":"How the Chanel Jacket Forever Changed What Women Wear"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image alignwide size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/art\/photography\/portrait-photography\/douglas-kirkland-coco-chanel-paris-1962\/id-a_1707423\/\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"950\" height=\"631\" src=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/Coco_Chanel_Paris_1962_2_master-950x631.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-341732\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/Coco_Chanel_Paris_1962_2_master-950x631.jpg 950w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/Coco_Chanel_Paris_1962_2_master-527x350.jpg 527w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/Coco_Chanel_Paris_1962_2_master-120x80.jpg 120w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/Coco_Chanel_Paris_1962_2_master-768x510.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/Coco_Chanel_Paris_1962_2_master-365x241.jpg 365w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/Coco_Chanel_Paris_1962_2_master.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 950px) 100vw, 950px\" \/><\/a><figcaption><a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/art\/photography\/portrait-photography\/douglas-kirkland-coco-chanel-paris-1962\/id-a_1707423\/\"><em>Coco Chanel Paris<\/em>, 1962, by Douglas Kirkland<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>In Switzerland, Coco Chanel chafed at her post\u2013World War II exile. It was not just that her income from Chanel No. 5 was dwindling. On top of that, as she saw it, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/creators\/christian-dior\/fashion\/\">Christian Dior<\/a>\u2019s New Look was making women dress like decorative objects. \u201cI want my women to look like flowers,\u201d Dior famously said of his \u00fcber-feminine corseted styles, based on 19th-century ideals of beauty.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/creators\/chanel\/fashion\/\">Chanel<\/a> had fought that fight decades earlier, living a life and espousing a look that more than proved a woman was not a damn flower. (Not a fragile, dependent one, at least, maybe a lush white camellia that never lost its leaves. Camellias were OK.) Anyway, enough was enough. In 1953, Mademoiselle went back to Paris and reopened her couture house, which had been closed since France declared war on Germany in 1939.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>On February 5, 1954, during the showing of her first post-return collection, the <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/creators\/chanel\/fashion\/clothing\/jackets\/\">Chanel jacket<\/a> made its debut. \u201cThe Chanel jacket we know today \u2014 the tweeds, buttons, braids and chain \u2014 really represents modernity,\u201d says Patrick Michael Hughes, associate teaching professor at Parsons School of Design in New York.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The garment reacted against the fitted, constricting styles of the New Look, replacing them with a design that was timeless, an instant classic. It was, after all, based on a cardigan, and, as Hughes notes, \u201ca cardigan never goes out of style.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image alignfull size-full\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/creators\/chanel\/fashion\/clothing\/jackets\/\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"2126\" height=\"750\" src=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/chaneljackets.jpg\" alt=\"Chanel jackets\n\" class=\"wp-image-341772\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/chaneljackets.jpg 2126w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/chaneljackets-800x282.jpg 800w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/chaneljackets-950x335.jpg 950w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/chaneljackets-120x42.jpg 120w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/chaneljackets-768x271.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/chaneljackets-1536x542.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/chaneljackets-2048x722.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/chaneljackets-1600x564.jpg 1600w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2126px) 100vw, 2126px\" \/><\/a><figcaption>Left to right: <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/fashion\/clothing\/jackets\/chanel-80s-vintage-ecru-tweed-navy-braid-trim-gold-cc-button-collarless-jacket\/id-v_8862991\/\">Chanel ecru tweed jacket, 1980s<\/a>; <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/fashion\/clothing\/jackets\/stunning-chanel-lesage-metallic-fantasy-tweed-jacket-blazer\/id-v_8509471\/\">fantasy tweed jacket, 21st century<\/a>; <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/fashion\/clothing\/jackets\/gorgeous-chanel-chunky-maison-lesage-tweed-jacket-crochet-knit-trimming\/id-v_8824772\/\">Lesage tweed jacket, 21st century<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Why a cardigan? Because it allowed women to move with ease, as a young cardigan-clad Chanel proved while gallivanting around Paris during the Jazz Age. Achieving this ease, she said later, was \u201cthe hardest thing about my work.\u201d As a designer, Chanel wanted to enable women \u201cto move like they\u2019re not in costume . . .  not changing attitude, or manner, depending on their dress.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>To do this, she eliminated key elements of traditionally tailored jackets: shoulder pads, darts, interfacing and even collars. Any detail that could impede movement was scrapped. To Chanel, luxury and comfort were inseparable. She added pockets \u2014 four <em>real<\/em> pockets, large enough for a real woman\u2019s hands (plus lipstick, keys and, yes, cigarettes).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Golden buttons, stamped with the house\u2019s double C, were each accompanied by a button hole, a novel feature at the time. A slim chain hidden in the silk lining ensured that the garment hung gracefully from the shoulders. The use of tweed was a touch of masculine sophistication with romantic resonance for Chanel, who first encountered the fabric in the 1920s during trips to the estate of her lover, the Duke of Westminster.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/art\/photography\/color-photography\/mark-shaw-vera-valdez-models-at-chanel-salon-1961\/id-a_4024342\/\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/chanel-1-950x944.jpg\" alt=\"Mark Shaw\nVera Valdez and Models at Chanel Salon, 1961\n2018\" class=\"wp-image-341751\"\/><\/a><figcaption><a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/art\/photography\/color-photography\/mark-shaw-vera-valdez-models-at-chanel-salon-1961\/id-a_4024342\/\"><em>Vera Valdez and Models at Chanel Salon, 1961<\/em>, 2018, by Mark Shaw<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Some version of this jacket has likely walked every Chanel runway since 1954. Yet its attraction is undiminished \u2014 a fact confirmed for Hughes whenever he brings in garments to show his students. \u201cAs soon as I put out a Chanel jacket, it immediately gets all the attention,\u201d he says. \u201cEverybody wants to touch the Chanel. It\u2019s as if they had some sort of connection with it.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u201cThe suit,\u201d wrote French <em>Vogue<\/em> in 1954, \u201crepresents everything Chanel has believed in all her life.\u201d She was 71 when it debuted.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator\"\/>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"has-text-align-center wp-block-heading\" id=\"authenticating-a-chanel-jacket\"><strong>Authenticating a Chanel Jacket<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image alignwide size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/art\/photography\/black-white-photography\/douglas-kirkland-coco-chanel-paris-1962\/id-a_1324343\/\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"950\" height=\"689\" src=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/coco_chanel_photo_douglas_kirkland_b_copy_master-950x689.jpeg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-341707\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/coco_chanel_photo_douglas_kirkland_b_copy_master-950x689.jpeg 950w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/coco_chanel_photo_douglas_kirkland_b_copy_master-483x350.jpeg 483w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/coco_chanel_photo_douglas_kirkland_b_copy_master-120x87.jpeg 120w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/coco_chanel_photo_douglas_kirkland_b_copy_master-768x557.jpeg 768w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/coco_chanel_photo_douglas_kirkland_b_copy_master.jpeg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 950px) 100vw, 950px\" \/><\/a><figcaption><a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/art\/photography\/black-white-photography\/douglas-kirkland-coco-chanel-paris-1962\/id-a_1324343\/\"><em>Coco Chanel Paris<\/em>, 1962, by Douglas Kirkland<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>\u201cIf you want to be original, be ready to be copied,\u201d Chanel once said. So, how can you tell if a Chanel jacket is genuine? First, as with any luxury brand, know your logo. (<a href=\"https:\/\/vintagefashionguild.org\/label-resource\/chanel\/\">Vintagefashionguild.org<\/a> offers a visual history of how labels have changed over time.) Consider font size and thickness as well as the distance between letters and lines. Chanel doesn\u2019t make mistakes with these elements. Counterfeiters do. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/fashion\/clothing\/suits-outfits-ensembles\/chanel-multi-coloured-pink-tweed-jacket-skirt-ensemble\/id-v_4459991\/\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"950\" height=\"633\" src=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_1580_master-950x633.jpeg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-341755\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_1580_master-950x633.jpeg 950w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_1580_master-525x350.jpeg 525w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_1580_master-120x80.jpeg 120w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_1580_master-768x512.jpeg 768w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_1580_master.jpeg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 950px) 100vw, 950px\" \/><\/a><figcaption><a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/fashion\/clothing\/suits-outfits-ensembles\/chanel-multi-coloured-pink-tweed-jacket-skirt-ensemble\/id-v_4459991\/\">Chanel multicolored pink tweed jacket and skirt ensemble, 1990\u201399<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Second, consider quality. This, according to Ian Campbell, a collector who has spent a lot of time studying Chanel, \u201cshould be consistent with authentic pieces from the same time frame. Modern tweeds are heavier and richer than vintage ones.\u201d <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Third, does the jacket accord with Chanel\u2019s original vision of usable design? Does every button have a buttonhole? Is every pocket real? The lining offers another important clue. Jackets should be lined in silk \u2014 Polyester? <em>Mon dieu, non!<\/em> \u2014 and the number of silk panels should correspond to the number of tweed ones. This was a Chanel innovation, designed to facilitate movement and tailoring. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\"><figure class=\"alignleft size-large is-resized\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/fashion\/clothing\/jackets\/runway-chanel-06a-cream-tweed-black-trim-lapel-4-pocket-school-boy-jacket-fr46\/id-v_8862711\/\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/12_master-1.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-341762\" width=\"494\" height=\"634\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/12_master-1.jpg 658w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/12_master-1-273x350.jpg 273w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/12_master-1-93x120.jpg 93w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 494px) 100vw, 494px\" \/><\/a><figcaption><a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/fashion\/clothing\/jackets\/runway-chanel-06a-cream-tweed-black-trim-lapel-4-pocket-school-boy-jacket-fr46\/id-v_8862711\/\">Chanel 06A cream tweed  jacket, 2010-<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>Finally, whenever possible, date the jacket. Until 2009, the three-digit code at the top of the label represented the year and the season. For example, O3A meant 2003 Autumn\/Winter. Seasons are broken down as follows:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>P=Spring\/Summer<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>A=Autumn\/Winter<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>C=Cruise<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Around 2009, that three-digit number began to disappear; dating information for jackets made after that time can be obtained by contacting the Chanel Boutique with the reference number on the label.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Once you know the date, Campbell advises, you\u2019ll want to confirm that the style of your garment matches that of the collection identified by the code. You can do this by comparing the garment to runway images on <em><a href=\"https:\/\/www.vogue.com\/fashion-shows\">Vogue<\/a> <\/em>or <a href=\"http:\/\/www.firstview.com\/\"><em>FirstView<\/em><\/a>. \u201cButtons are unique to each season,\u201d Campbell says, noting that they  \u201care made by hand in Paris, so they should be distinctive in look and quality.\u201d <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-text-align-center\">\t<div class=\"interstitial-banner interstitial-banner-collection interstitial-container\">\n\t\t<div class=\"interstitial-content\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"interstitial-background-image\">\n\t\t\t\t<img decoding=\"async\" width=\"622\" height=\"205\" src=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/3700783_master.jpg\" class=\"attachment-interstitial size-interstitial\" alt=\"Chanel jackets\" \/>\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t<div class=\"container interstitial-text\">\n\t\t\t\t<a class=\"interstitial-link-around-text\" href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/creators\/chanel\/fashion\/clothing\/jackets\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"interstitial-heading\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\tShop Chanel Jackets\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"interstitial-subheading\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t\t<a class=\"gold-button\" href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/creators\/chanel\/fashion\/clothing\/jackets\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<span>View All<\/span>\n\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>In Switzerland, Coco Chanel chafed at her post\u2013World War II exile. It was not just that her income from Chanel No. 5 was dwindling. On top of that, as she saw it, Christian Dior\u2019s New Look was making women dress like decorative objects. \u201cI want my women to look like flowers,\u201d Dior famously said of [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":293,"featured_media":341751,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"apple_news_api_created_at":"2021-03-22T15:04:46Z","apple_news_api_id":"88963c0c-c0fb-4151-bdfc-97f57357b02b","apple_news_api_modified_at":"2021-03-22T15:04:46Z","apple_news_api_revision":"AAAAAAAAAAD\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/w==","apple_news_api_share_url":"https:\/\/apple.news\/AiJY8DMD7QVG9_Jf1c1ewKw","apple_news_cover_media_provider":"image","apple_news_coverimage":0,"apple_news_coverimage_caption":"","apple_news_cover_video_id":0,"apple_news_cover_video_url":"","apple_news_cover_embedwebvideo_url":"","apple_news_is_hidden":"","apple_news_is_paid":"","apple_news_is_preview":"","apple_news_is_sponsored":"","apple_news_maturity_rating":"","apple_news_metadata":"\"\"","apple_news_pullquote":"","apple_news_pullquote_position":"","apple_news_slug":"","apple_news_sections":[],"apple_news_suppress_video_url":false,"apple_news_use_image_component":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[15522063],"tags":[8343213,15523913,162,15551183,300943,2050883,15523433,11985093,2050893,15551186,8401253,15551185],"dibs-categories":[15565983,15565982,15566065,15566067],"dibs-designs":[],"dibs-styles":[],"dibs-creators":[15566508,15566789,15566788],"dibs-sellers":[],"class_list":["post-340324","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-fashion","tag-20th-century","tag-20th-century-fashion","tag-chanel","tag-chanel-jacket","tag-christian-dior","tag-coco-chanel","tag-fashion-2","tag-fashion-designer","tag-fashion-history","tag-ian-campbell","tag-parsons-school-of-design","tag-patrick-michael-hughes","dibs-categories-dibs-v_clo","dibs-categories-dibs-v","dibs-categories-dibs-v_clo_jac","dibs-categories-dibs-v_clo_jac_jac","dibs-creators-dibs-chanel","dibs-creators-dibs-chanel-boutique","dibs-creators-dibs-karl-lagerfeld-for-chanel"],"acf":{"post_format":"article","subtitle":"The classic tweed garment has been a wardrobe staple of chic women around the world since the 1950s.","show_date":true,"interstitial_banners":[{"acf_fc_layout":"collection","interstitial_banner_shortcode":"chanel-jackets","interstitial_banner_background_image":341744,"interstitial_banner_heading":"Shop Chanel Jackets","interstitial_banner_subheading":"","interstitial_banner_button_text":"View All","interstitial_banner_button_url":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/creators\/chanel\/fashion\/clothing\/jackets\/"}],"show_related_items_footer_popup":false,"slideshows":false,"contributors":{"hide_byline":false,"columnist":[{"ID":361853,"post_author":"1","post_date":"2021-12-14 22:36:15","post_date_gmt":"2021-12-15 03:36:15","post_content":"","post_title":"Lisa Santandrea","post_excerpt":"","post_status":"publish","comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","post_password":"","post_name":"lisa-santandrea","to_ping":"","pinged":"","post_modified":"2021-12-14 22:36:15","post_modified_gmt":"2021-12-15 03:36:15","post_content_filtered":"","post_parent":0,"guid":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/contributors\/lisa-santandrea\/","menu_order":0,"post_type":"contributors","post_mime_type":"","comment_count":"0","filter":"raw"}],"photographer":"","custom_byline":false}},"dibs_designs_tags":null,"dibs_sellers_tags":null,"dibs_creators_tags":["dibs-chanel","dibs-chanel-boutique","dibs-karl-lagerfeld-for-chanel"],"dibs_styles_tags":null,"dibs_categories_tags":["dibs-v_clo","dibs-v","dibs-v_clo_jac","dibs-v_clo_jac_jac"],"featured_image_url":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/chanel-1-scaled-640x450.jpg","post_title":"How the Chanel Jacket Forever Changed What Women Wear","fimg_url":{"thumbnail":{"source_url":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/chanel-1-scaled-120x120.jpg","width":120,"height":120},"medium":{"source_url":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/chanel-1-scaled-352x350.jpg","width":352,"height":350},"full":{"source_url":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/chanel-1-scaled.jpg","width":2560,"height":2544}},"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/chanel-1-scaled.jpg","apple_news_notices":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.6 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>How the Chanel Jacket Forever Changed What Women Wear | The Study<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"The classic tweed garment has been a wardrobe staple of chic women around the world since the 1950s.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, 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