{"id":342371,"date":"2020-05-22T13:38:32","date_gmt":"2020-05-22T17:38:32","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/?p=342371"},"modified":"2024-01-16T15:11:40","modified_gmt":"2024-01-16T20:11:40","slug":"victorian-edwardian-art-deco-engagement-rings","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/victorian-edwardian-art-deco-engagement-rings\/","title":{"rendered":"Our Guide to Victorian, Edwardian and Art Deco Engagement Rings"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
\"Art<\/a>
Art Deco 3.03-carat diamond engagement ring, early 20th century<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

First, let\u2019s take a quick look at the history of diamond engagement rings<\/a>. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

The ancients wore rings<\/a> as signifiers of marriage. But it wasn\u2019t until 1477, when Archduke Maximilian of Austria gave one to his bride, Mary of Burgundy, that diamond rings<\/a> became a thing<\/em>. Naturally, where royalty led, the elite followed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

By the mid-1800s, a marriage promise customarily came with a ring, sometimes set with diamonds, but often with other gems. A century would pass before diamond engagement rings became de rigueur for the masses. The 1947 DeBeers campaign, with its iconic \u201cA diamond is forever\u201d tagline, changed everything.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

If you\u2019re shopping for an antique engagement ring<\/a>, put the 4Cs<\/a> aside \u2014 it\u2019s all about falling in love, not finding the \u201cperfect\u201d stone. An antique ring comes with a romantic history<\/a>, as well as a hand-cut diamond that radiates character and charisma. Plus, you can feel confident you won\u2019t see anyone else with a ring like yours.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The most collectible rings are those from the Victorian<\/a>, Edwardian<\/a> and Art Deco<\/a> eras. \u201cThese periods present a universe of options, from clean lines that highlight a single diamond to embellished styles with multiple stones,\u201d says Rebecca Selva, chief creative officer of Fred Leighton<\/a> in New York City. In other words, there is something for every taste. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cAn antique ring retains a lightness of design, often because of artisanal involvement, that is missing from a machine-made modern style,\u201d says Elaine Smith, co-owner of Millane\u2019s<\/a>, in Yorkshire, England. \u201cIf the item is hallmarked with a date, that adds to its desirability. Often, pieces are inscribed with dedications inside the band, lending them an air of mystery and romance.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

The Victorian Era, 1837\u20131901<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Sentimental symbols in gold and the birth of the iconic prong-set solitaire<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"English<\/a>
English old mine diamond solitaire ring, ca. 1890<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Named for Queen Victoria<\/a> and bearing the mark of her long reign and storied marriage<\/a> to Prince Albert, this was a time of strict social and courtship rules. At balls and dances, young women in crinolines, bustles and cameo jewelry<\/a> elevated flirtation to a nuanced language of coded gestures (dropping your gloves meant \u201cI love you,\u201d while tapping them against your chin conveyed \u201cI love another\u201d).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Queen Victoria<\/a> of England and her husband Prince Consort Albert, taken in 1851. Photo courtesy of Getty Images<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

When Victoria and Albert married, he gave her a gold ring in the shape of a serpent, which symbolized renewal and lasting love<\/a>. This initiated a craze for snake jewelry, joined by gems with other sentimental and romantic motifs favored by the queen, such as flowers, hearts, stars, insects and Gothic symbols. The popular and fashionable young royal was the style influencer of her era.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

At the beginning of the period, rings were made of gold<\/a> and affordable only by the wealthy. Designs for Victorian-era engagement rings<\/a> often featured repouss\u00e9 work and chasing, in which patterns are hammered into the metal. Stones were secured by collets, settings similar to bezels, with prongs and a closed back. The collet was overlaid with silver to enhance the whiteness of the diamonds, which were likely to be small rose<\/a>– or old-mine-cut<\/a> (the ancestor of today\u2019s cushion-cut<\/a>) stones, arranged in clusters or lines and often accompanied by colored gemstones. <\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n

With the California Gold Rush of 1849, gold became more accessible and less expensive, available in 9- to 22-karat alloys. Diamonds<\/a>, in their turn, became more widely available after the 1866 discovery of a major lode in South Africa. Advances in diamond-cutting technology led to what we now call the old European cut<\/a>, a precursor of the round brilliant shape<\/a>. In 1886, Tiffany & Co.<\/a> introduced its now-iconic six-prong setting, which allowed more light to enter the diamond, amplifying its brilliance, and the craze for solitaire styles<\/a> was ignited.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

The Edwardian Era 1901\u201310<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Platinum ascendant and delicate designs in vogue<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"4.23-carat<\/a>
4.23-carat diamond and platinum halo engagement ring, 1900<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

After Queen Victoria died, in 1901, her son took the throne as King Edward VII, ushering in a period of refined luxury in Britain that was mirrored in America and Europe (in France, it was known as la<\/em> Belle \u00c9poque<\/em><\/a>, \u201cthe beautiful years\u201d). His short reign served as a bridge between the mores of the past and the ideals of a modern era, as Victorian notions of propriety and femininity began to change. The suffrage movement went mainstream, and women started to make forays into the worlds of higher education and work. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jewelry design evolved, too, but there was some overlap with late Victorian<\/a> styles. Nature, for instance, continued to be a major theme in Edwardian engagement rings<\/a>, thanks to the influence<\/a> of the Art Nouveau<\/a> movement and the tastes of Queen Alexandra, King Edward\u2019s wife. In fact, flowing and floral garland motifs were so popular that the Edwardian<\/a> period is sometimes called the \u201cgarland era.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Advertisement for diamond engagement rings by George E Marshall in Chicago, Illinois, 1901. Photo by Jay Paull\/Getty Images<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The invention of the oxyacetylene torch enabled jewelers to use platinum, which had previously been too challenging to work with. As Fred Leighton\u2019s Selva notes, \u201cAdvances in metalsmithing liberated designers to create airy, delicate platinum rings.\u201d It also enabled the lacy filigree and exquisite milgrain<\/a> work characteristic of the period.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n

Cutters used new diamond saws and jewelry lathes to refine the old European cut. The resulting stones, designed to sparkle in the light from candles and gas lamps, are beloved by connoisseurs for their inner fire and romantic glow. Antique diamonds are exceptionally rare these days because they were often recut over the years according to prevailing trends. When you find one that makes your heart skip a beat, consider yourself lucky.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

The Art Deco Movement, 1915\u201330s<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

The modern culture and jewels of the Jazz Age<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Art<\/a>
Fred Leighton 1.10-carat emerald-cut diamond engagement ring, 1920s<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

With the end of World War I, in 1918, and the dawn of women’s suffrage, in 1920, an era of cultural change commenced. New social freedoms were reflected in fashion, music, even language \u2014 sexy<\/em> and blind date<\/em> first appear in the mid-\u201920s. In fact, dating itself was new, replacing the courtship rituals followed since Victorian times. People began marrying for love rather than to fulfill family expectations. Along with these modern practices came revolutions in fashion and jewelry.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Young style setters rebelled against Prohibition by dancing and drinking the night away at speakeasies and jazz joints. They tossed aside the ornate floral jewelry of the previous decades in favor of geometric platinum designs inspired by the 1925 Exposition Internationale des arts d\u00e9coratifs et industriels modernes in Paris, which debuted the style<\/a> that became known as Art Deco<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Gwen
Actress Gwen Lee considers a proposal in this 1930 image Photo by John Springer Collection\/CORBIS\/Corbis via Getty Images<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Art Deco diamond ring<\/a> designs took inspiration from the contemporary Cubist<\/a> movement, as well as from ancient Egypt \u2014 a revival sparked by the discovery of King Tut\u2019s tomb<\/a> in 1922 \u2014 and Native American, African and Oriental motifs. Diamonds in square and rectangular shapes incorporating angular steps \u2014 like emerald cuts<\/a>, Asscher cuts<\/a> and baguettes<\/a> \u2014 were set against black onyx, rubies, sapphires and emeralds to create color blocking effects. The old European cut of the late Victorian era continued to be used till the 1930s, but new standards were emerging<\/a> that would lead to the modern round brilliant cut. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Among all the angles and lines of the Art Deco era, nature themes and more organic forms are still to be found in Art Deco engagement rings<\/a>, as in the swirling two-stone<\/a> \u201cToi et Moi<\/a>\u201d rings influenced by the Art Nouveau movement. \u201cArt Deco was the prevailing aesthetic,\u201d says Selva, \u201cbut not all design during the 1920s was necessarily Art Deco.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n

With almost a century of rings to consider, it\u2019s not easy to choose just one. But whichever you commit to, you can be sure that your ring will be a one-of-a-kind design of extraordinary craftsmanship and beauty. You can also feel good knowing that an antique ring is an ethical and sustainable choice. Best of all, it is endowed with an intrinsic romance that will be rekindled and live on as you celebrate your own love story.<\/p>\n\n\n\t

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\n\t\t\t\t\"engagement\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t
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\n\t\t\t\t\t\tExplore Engagement Rings on 1stdibs\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\tShop All<\/span>\n\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

First, let\u2019s take a quick look at the history of diamond engagement rings. The ancients wore rings as signifiers of marriage. But it wasn\u2019t until 1477, when Archduke Maximilian of Austria gave one to his bride, Mary of Burgundy, that diamond rings became a thing. Naturally, where royalty led, the elite followed. By the mid-1800s, 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