{"id":344536,"date":"2020-08-07T09:28:00","date_gmt":"2020-08-07T13:28:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/?p=344536"},"modified":"2024-04-26T07:52:33","modified_gmt":"2024-04-26T11:52:33","slug":"fashion-collectors-items","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/fashion-collectors-items\/","title":{"rendered":"10 Fashion Pieces Coveted by Collectors"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
\"Vivienne<\/a>
Vivienne Westwood Show, Paris<\/em>, 1990s, by Roxanne Lowit<\/a>. Westwood is credited with reintroducing corsets to the fashion world in her 1995 Vive La Cocotte runway show; her corsets are collector’s items today.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

\u201cWe need better things, not more,\u201d the inimitable Daphne Guinness once said. \u201cWe should not pollute the world with meaningless, unused things when we can make and support things of rare and precious beauty.\u201d In this, the British fashionista spoke the truth of legions of fashion<\/a> hunters.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Some, like Guinness, are searching for the building blocks<\/a> of a stand-out sartorial identity. Others have a more intellectual goal: to act as custodians for the garments and ideas that changed fashion. So, just what is it that makes a fashion item collectible?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/a>
Herm\u00e8s Birkin Bag<\/em>, 2010, by Nick Veasey<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Believing that a piece\u2019s allure owes equally to its history and its future, we compiled a list of our 10 most-liked garments<\/a> and accessories<\/a> and asked various experts for insight.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

But first, we asked, What does this collection say about today? <\/em>\u201cFantasy!” says Nancy Diehl, director of NYU\u2019s costume studies program<\/a>. \u201cThese pieces are all extremely far removed from normal existence. They are beyond aspirational, really into a realm of imagined glamour.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

This, we admit, is no surprise at all \u2014 considering that many of us currently exist in a never-ending rotation of sweatpants.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

John Galliano Bias-Cut Wedding Dress, Spring\/Summer 1995<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"John<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

\u201cThis John Galliano dress<\/a> is a major wow,\u201d says stylist Sarah Slutsky<\/a>. The magic ingredient? The bias cut, which Galliano<\/a> is celebrated for. (One could even say it\u2019s \u201cso Galliano!\u201d and thus especially attractive for collectors<\/a>.) So, too, is the designer known for his unforgettable brides.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

According to fashion historian Rachel Elspeth Gross<\/a>, \u201cGalliano has designed some of the most rock-star chic wedding gowns of all time, including Gwen Stefani\u2019s 2002 dip-dyed \u2018piece of art,\u2019 and Kate Moss\u2019 2011 gown.\u201d <\/p>\n\n\n\n

This dress, from his Pin Up collection, is replete with rock-star details. \u201cThe straps,\u201d says Gross, \u201care designed specifically so that one will fall off the shoulder\u201d for casual yet conspicuous glamour. \u201cIf I was styling it for a client to wear on the red carpet,\u201d says Slutsky, \u201cI would pair it with a gold nudist heel and perhaps a gold drop earring<\/a> with an emerald. She is a true stunner!\u201d <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

Herm\u00e8s Himalaya Niloticus Crocodile Birkin 25 <\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"Herm\u00e8s<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

\u201cThe Herm\u00e8s Birkin Himalayan<\/a> is the holy grail of handbags<\/a>,\u201d says L. Kiyana Roberson, founder of Newfound Luxury<\/a>. Want proof? How about the record-breaking $500,000 sale of a 35cm Niloticus crocodile<\/a> Himalaya in 2019.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cThe process to create the color gradation in the crocodile hide<\/a> to resemble the Himalayan mountains is quite extensive,\u201d says Roberson. \u201cSo, these are made in extremely limited quantities.\u201d For a collector, rarity means profit<\/a>. In fact, some consider buying an Herm\u00e8s bag<\/a> to be \u201clike investing in a GIA-certified diamond<\/a>.\u201d <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

Gianni Versace Couture Gold-Mesh Hourglass Dress, 1998<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"Gianni<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

In fashion as in art<\/a> collecting, the ability to document provenance<\/a> is important. This dress comes with great credentials: It was featured in a photo for a 1998 ad campaign shot by Steven Meisel; and that picture appeared in a 2016 New York Times T Magazine<\/em> story<\/a> with the caption \u201cMemorable campaigns from Versace<\/a>\u2019s past played up the brand\u2019s campy<\/a> Italian side.\u201d Further, says Lauren Lepire, owner of Timeless Vixen<\/a>, it was \u201cworn by model Hailey Clauson to the 2017 Harper\u2019s Bazaar<\/em> Icons event.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The fabric is pure Versace. \u201cIn 1982, Gianni Versace<\/a> created this \u2018chain mail\u2019 metallic fabric<\/a> by interlinking disks,\u201d says David Leung, a designer who worked for Versace in the 1990s and describes the result as “reminiscent of a very fine net. [Versace] patented the name Oroton,<\/em> a shimmering fabric fluid enough to drape.” An insider tip: \u201cDon\u2019t wear stockings. The chain mail<\/a> will snag them!\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

Thierry Mugler Gold Lam\u00e9 Corset, Fall\/Winter 1978<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"Thierry<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Known for \u201cthe power of glamour,\u201d Thierry Mugler<\/a>\u2019s vintage designs manifest physicality and force. It\u2019s there in his sharp-shouldered suits<\/a>, tapered waistlines, towering heels. It\u2019s there in his muses, like six-foot-tall blonde Texan Jerry Hall. And it\u2019s there in his dramatic, otherworldly constructions<\/a>, like this gold lam\u00e9 number<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Says stylist Nick Collins<\/a>, \u201cIncorporating a piece like this into your wardrobe means two things: One, you can afford it, so you probably also have other equally impressive archival fashion pieces. And two, you’re confident enough to wear it, preferably with some dressy trousers or vintage denim<\/a>.\u201d <\/p>\n\n\n\n

To others, the message is more lighthearted. \u201cThis piece speaks to my inner craving to dress up and go disco dancing,\u201d says stylist Leah Adicoff.<\/a> \u201cI think we are all dreaming of the day we can get back out there and boogie the night away.\u201d <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Or the day we all feel as powerful as Mugler\u2019s women appear. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

Christian Dior by John Galliano Pink Silk-Satin Mesh-Trim Slip Dress, Spring\/Summer 2000<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"Christian<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Galliano\u2019s slip dress for Dior<\/a> \u201cradiates an old Hollywood vixen vibe reminiscent of Veronica Lake,\u201d says Andrea Wilemon, of My Haute Wardrobe<\/a>. It\u2019s an example of a seemingly simple design that \u201call the fast-fashion brands try to reproduce,\u201d says Collins, \u201cbut they lack John’s genius for cutting.\u201d In fact, the designer<\/a> has said that using the bias cut is \u201clike working with liquid, mercurial oil.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The sleek, slippery surface of this dress surely illustrates that feeling. \u201cI love how slip dresses skim the body,\u201d says Slutsky. \u201cI find them to be one of the more versatile pieces to have in your closet. I love them with a pair of strappy heels<\/a> for a summer evening out, with a tee underneath and sneakers for running around town. And as the weather cools, I throw on a big fisherman sweater<\/a>.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

Christian Dior Haute Couture White Lace Off-Shoulder Trained Bridal Gown, 1987<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"Christian<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

\u201cIt\u2019s almost impossible to find haute couture Christian Dior<\/a> wedding dresses, because so few are made,\u201d says Lepire. \u201cTo have even one for sale is exciting.\u201d This gown<\/a>, which epitomizes the historic feminine styles the house was built on<\/a>, was commissioned in the year of Dior\u2019s 50th anniversary.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cBernard Arnault (the brand\u2019s new owner) threw quite the party to celebrate,\u201d says Gross. \u201cGuests included Princess Caroline of Monaco, Sophia Loren and Morgan Fairchild.\u201d Explaining the return to \u00fcber-feminine ideals expressed in this gown, Gross quotes designer Marc Bohan<\/a>, who noted that \u201cthere was a bit of the fifties spirit in the air, and the young were greatly amused by that period.\u201d <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

Vivienne Westwood Vive La Cocotte Corset, Fall\/Winter 1995<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"Vivienne<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

\u201cVivienne Westwood<\/a> is credited as the first designer of the 20th century to reintroduce the corset<\/a> after it had been dismissed by Paul Poiret at the start of the century,\u201d says Cameron Silver, founder of Decades<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Adds Gross, \u201cWestwood\u2019s 1995 Vive La Cocotte show was revolutionary. There was nothing to suggest the heroin-chic, skinny-girl models the world was used to seeing walking down high-fashion runways.\u201d In fact, she continues, \u201cthe designer wrote in the program that her \u2018return to formality in dress is a reaction against the sloppy mediocrity<\/a> of our age.\u2019 \u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cWestwood corsets<\/a> have become extremely desirable,\u201d says Silver. Furthermore, suggests Collins, they look great paired with classic Levi’s<\/a> 501s.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

Herm\u00e8s<\/strong> Birkin 25 Bag in Rose Sakura Palladium Swift Leather<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"Herm\u00e8s<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Color is one of the most important, and exciting, details of a Birkin bag<\/a>. Herm\u00e8s<\/a> releases new hues each season, some of which, like this Rose Sakura<\/a>, are rare enough to be considered \u201celusive.\u201d But each evokes an ideal.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cI believe that the rare Rose Sakura, a gentle cherry-blossom pink, has an emotional connection with the little girl that lives in every woman,\u201d says Debra Kent, of mightychic<\/a>. Celebrities spotted with a rose-colored Birkin include Victoria Beckham, Heidi Klum, Kylie Jenner and Cardi B\u2019s two-year-old daughter, Kulture. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

Alexander McQueen Red Silk-Chiffon Empire Evening Dress, Fall\/Winter 2008<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"Alexander<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

McQueen<\/a> was a storyteller. Describing his Fall\/Winter 2008 collection, The Girl Who Lived in the Tree, he said he had imagined a girl who \u201ccomes out of the darkness\u201d of a 600-year-old elm in his yard \u201cto meet a prince and become a queen.\u201d <\/p>\n\n\n\n

The fantasy was pedestrian, perhaps, but the response to the collection was anything but. Vogue<\/em> lauded the designer\u2019s vision of \u201ccrinolined princesses and British colonial romance\u201d and described the runway as a \u201cspine-tingling, eye-welling emotion of a show so exceptional to witness that \u2014 despite all exhaustion, cynicism, and workaday pressures \u2014 it suddenly transforms being involved in fashion into a magical privilege<\/a>.\u201d The line might, said Sarah Mower, surpass \u201canything he\u2019s achieved in 14 years.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Although the runway version of this dress<\/a> was white, Adicoff favors the alchemy of red. \u201cThis color is my power source,\u201d she says. \u201cI always feel my most beautiful in red, and I think other women feel this way too. Throw on a red lip, and it\u2019s game over!\u201d <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

John Galliano for Christian Dior Pink-Silk Monogram Logo Tie Dress, Spring\/Summer 2004<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"John<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

A stylist\u2019s cool appraisal of this logomania icon: \u201cCirca Paris\/Lindsay vibes,\u201d says Collins, adding, \u201cThe Insta-dress every influencer would kill to be posted in.\u201d But more than just another summer frock from Galliano\u2019s 2004 Girly collection, it\u2019s an early example of the influence of streetwear on high fashion.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

According to Gross, the Dior Oblique pattern, created by designer Marc Bohan<\/a>, made \u201cits first appearance on a purse in Dior\u2019s 1969 haute couture collection\u201d; by the 1970s, it was on Dior luggage, and before being abandoned by the vagaries of fashion, it even made its way to the floors of the menswear boutique. Then came Galliano.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cGalliano, who took over as designer of Dior<\/a> in 1996, reimagined the print as Diorissimo,<\/em> which was inspired by street style,\u201d Gross explains. <\/p>\n\n\n\t

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\n\t\t\t\t\t\tExplore Fashion on 1stDibs\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t
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\u201cWe need better things, not more,\u201d the inimitable Daphne Guinness once said. \u201cWe should not pollute the world with meaningless, unused things when we can make and support things of rare and precious beauty.\u201d In this, the British fashionista spoke the truth of legions of fashion hunters. Some, like Guinness, are searching for the building […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":345422,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"apple_news_api_created_at":"2020-08-07T19:19:56Z","apple_news_api_id":"35681b96-ca15-40fd-9ce9-ecd545c7fc6b","apple_news_api_modified_at":"2024-04-26T11:52:41Z","apple_news_api_revision":"AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAACA==","apple_news_api_share_url":"https:\/\/apple.news\/ANWgblsoVQP2c6ezVRcf8aw","apple_news_cover_media_provider":"image","apple_news_coverimage":0,"apple_news_coverimage_caption":"","apple_news_cover_video_id":0,"apple_news_cover_video_url":"","apple_news_cover_embedwebvideo_url":"","apple_news_is_hidden":"","apple_news_is_paid":"","apple_news_is_preview":"","apple_news_is_sponsored":"","apple_news_maturity_rating":"","apple_news_metadata":"\"\"","apple_news_pullquote":"","apple_news_pullquote_position":"","apple_news_slug":"","apple_news_sections":[],"apple_news_suppress_video_url":false,"apple_news_use_image_component":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[15522063,112],"tags":[],"dibs-categories":[],"dibs-designs":[],"dibs-styles":[],"dibs-creators":[],"dibs-sellers":[],"class_list":["post-344536","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-fashion","category-trending"],"acf":{"post_format":"article","subtitle":"Insiders weigh in on why these items are so sought-after by savvy shoppers. ","show_date":true,"interstitial_banners":[{"acf_fc_layout":"collection","interstitial_banner_shortcode":"fashion","interstitial_banner_background_image":345453,"interstitial_banner_heading":"Explore Fashion on 1stDibs","interstitial_banner_subheading":"","interstitial_banner_button_text":"Shop All","interstitial_banner_button_url":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/fashion\/"}],"show_related_items_footer_popup":false,"slideshows":false,"contributors":{"hide_byline":false,"columnist":[{"ID":361853,"post_author":"1","post_date":"2021-12-14 22:36:15","post_date_gmt":"2021-12-15 03:36:15","post_content":"","post_title":"Lisa Santandrea","post_excerpt":"","post_status":"publish","comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","post_password":"","post_name":"lisa-santandrea","to_ping":"","pinged":"","post_modified":"2021-12-14 22:36:15","post_modified_gmt":"2021-12-15 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