{"id":345582,"date":"2020-09-11T09:53:00","date_gmt":"2020-09-11T13:53:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/?p=345582"},"modified":"2024-07-08T15:41:21","modified_gmt":"2024-07-08T19:41:21","slug":"kimono-robes","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/kimono-robes\/","title":{"rendered":"After Centuries, the Kimono\u2019s Influence on Fashion Is Still Strong"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
\"Maikos,
Maikos<\/em>, or apprentice geisha, in the historic Gion district of Kyoto, from the exhibition \u201cKimono: Kyoto to Catwalk\u201d at London’s Victoria and Albert. Photo \u00a9 Getty Images<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

It is, quite literally, \u201cthe thing to wear.\u201d With a history that spans more than 1,000 years, the kimono<\/a> has amply earned this simple yet emphatic translation. The uncomplicated T-shape design, cut from a single bolt of (usually glorious) cloth, was protected by law in 1950, deemed bunkazai hogo ho,<\/em> \u201ccultural property,\u201d something that provides insight into Japan\u2019s art, history and way of life. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

But the garment’s allure knows no boundaries, national or otherwise. \u201cYou can\u2019t love fashion<\/a> and textiles<\/a> without loving kimonos,\u201d says Katy Rodriguez<\/a>, founder of the luxury vintage design boutique Resurrection<\/a>. Adds Bridgette Morphew, owner of the eponymous Morphew<\/a>, \u201cIt\u2019s unisex and appeals to all sizes and ages.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It’s the kimono\u2019s balance between two competing identities \u2014 cultural icon and fashionable attire \u2014 that underlies its attraction today. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n
\"Standing<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"A<\/figure>\n
Contemporary kimonos from \u201cKimono: Kyoto to Catwalk.\u201d Left: Standing Rock Cyalume by Hiroko Takahashi (photo \u00a9 TAKAHASHIHIROKO, Inc). Right: A 2017 Pop-inspired example by Akira Times (photo \u00a9 Akira Times).<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

But here\u2019s the thing: More likely than not, we\u2019ve got the kimono all wrong. We gaze at elegant images of geisha from our limited Western perspective and think with reverence, \u201cHow timeless! How unchanging!\u201d Not true, insist the curators of two exhibitions: \u201cKimono: Kyoto to Catwalk<\/a>,\u201d at London’s Victoria and Albert through October 25; and \u201cKimono Couture: The Beauty of Chiso<\/a>,\u201d at the Worcester Art Museum, in Massachusetts, launching online November 28.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The kimono, says the Worcester\u2019s Vivian Li, is \u201ca living art practice inseparable from contemporary life.\u201d This sentiment is seconded by Anna Jackson at the V&A, whose show dismantles timeworn clich\u00e9s to demonstrate \u201cthat kimonos have been at the heart of a thriving fashion culture in Japan since the mid-17th century.\u201d <\/p>\n\n\n\n

So, what do you need to know? Let\u2019s begin.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

HISTORY OF THE KIMONO<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\n
\"Apprentice<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Kaidan<\/figure>\n
Left: Apprentice Maiko and Cherry Tree<\/em>, 1890 (detail), by Kishi Chikud\u014d. Right: Kaidan<\/em> (Staircase), early 20th century, by Kobayakawa Kiyoshi<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

A precursor to the kimono, the kosode<\/em>, first appeared in the Heian period (794\u20131192). It was the Edo period (1603\u20131868), however, that saw the \u201cmost dynamic\u201d development of the garment, according to Jackson.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cIt was a time when merchant classes demanded ever-changing styles through which to express their growing affluence, confidence and taste,” she explains, “when kimono designers and retailers worked with publishers of books and prints to exploit commercial opportunities and when desire for the latest clothes was fed by a celebrity culture of famous actors and courtesans.”<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Summing it up, Jackson describes it as \u201ca fashion world not dissimilar to our own,\u201d which fostered an \u201cenormous variety\u201d of new styles and artistic techniques. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

In 1853, United States warships arrived off the coast of Japan; soon afterward, the country was forced to open its ports to foreign trade. This led to a sartorial revolution, as men (especially those in the political class, who were eager to appear modern) exchanged their national dress (wafuku<\/em>) \u2014 including the kimono worn by both sexes \u2014 for Western-style clothing<\/a> (yofuku<\/em>).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Most women, however, continued to dress traditionally. The result was a feminization of the kimono. A 1925 survey found that 99 percent of the women wore wafuku<\/em>, versus only <\/em>33 percent of men. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Kimonos were banned in 1940, so the materials used to make them could be used instead in the war effort. In the difficult years following the surrender, the garments were prohibitively expensive. It was during this time that the kimono began to be worn primarily for special occasions.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

THE CRAFT OF KIMONO<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"Kosode
Kosode with Koto and Cloud Design and Edge Pattern, late 19th century (Meiji period, 1868\u20131912), by an unknown artist, from \u201cKimono Couture: The Beauty of Chiso\u201d at the Worcester Art Museum<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Making a kimono is the Eastern equivalent of French couture<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The process \u201c<\/strong>involves over 600 highly trained, inventive and innovative craftsmen,\u201d says curator Christine Starkman, who worked with the 450-year-old kimono maker Chiso on a garment commissioned for the Worcester museum show. It begins with considering dying techniques and consulting pattern books and Japanese paintings developed and collected over 15 generations.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cThe fabric is sent to the dyers and draftsman, who draw the design on the kimono by hand,” Starkman explains. “The kimono is sent to different craftsmen, depending on the technique (tie-dyeing and other dyeing methods, embroidery and gold application) and in order of application.\u201d The garment is lined and possibly paired with an overcoat (uchikake<\/em>) for formal events. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

THE KIMONO AND WESTERN FASHION<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\n
\"Christian<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Thom<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Duro<\/figure>\n
From left: Christian Dior<\/a> haute couture collection, Spring\/Summer 2007 (photo by Alain Benainous\/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images); Thom Browne<\/a> ready-to-wear menswear collection, Spring\/Summer 2016 (photo by Victor Virgile\/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images);
Duro Olowu<\/a> belted wrap coat, Autumn\/Winter 2015 (\u00a9 Duro Olowu)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Say you were having your portrait<\/a> painted in 1660s England and wanted to appear worldly, sophisticated, even a little intellectual. One garment would do the trick: the robe-like Indian gown, inspired, despite its name, by the kimono.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The kimono’s influence is evident throughout the history of fashion. You can see it in Liberty & Co<\/a>.’s tea gowns and in Paul Poiret<\/a>\u2019s radical corset-free designs of the early 20th century. It’s visible in Madeleine Vionnet<\/a>\u2019s innovative cutting and, later, in the visionary creations of Christian Dior<\/a>, John Galliano<\/a>, Jean Paul Gaultier<\/a>, Comme des Gar\u00e7ons<\/a>, Thom Browne<\/a> and Duro Olowu<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Vintage kimonos continue to have a following, says Morphew, noting that the best sellers are those made from lighter fabrics, which are easier to wear. Meanwhile, the style inspires fresh takes. \u201cIt\u2019s the most universal shape,\u201d says Rodriguez, of Resurrection. \u201cDesigners really love taking this classic design and adding their own twist.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\t

\n\t\t
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\n\t\t\t\t\"\"\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\tExplore Kimonos on 1stDibs\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\tShop All<\/span>\n\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

It is, quite literally, \u201cthe thing to wear.\u201d With a history that spans more than 1,000 years, the kimono has amply earned this simple yet emphatic translation. The uncomplicated T-shape design, cut from a single bolt of (usually glorious) cloth, was protected by law in 1950, deemed bunkazai hogo ho, \u201ccultural property,\u201d something that provides […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":346429,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"apple_news_api_created_at":"2020-09-11T19:47:40Z","apple_news_api_id":"34fd066a-064c-470b-a4ad-8ebd0b0c5f42","apple_news_api_modified_at":"2020-09-11T19:47:41Z","apple_news_api_revision":"AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAQ==","apple_news_api_share_url":"https:\/\/apple.news\/ANP0GagZMRwukrY69CwxfQg","apple_news_cover_media_provider":"image","apple_news_coverimage":0,"apple_news_coverimage_caption":"","apple_news_cover_video_id":0,"apple_news_cover_video_url":"","apple_news_cover_embedwebvideo_url":"","apple_news_is_hidden":"","apple_news_is_paid":"","apple_news_is_preview":"1","apple_news_is_sponsored":"","apple_news_maturity_rating":"","apple_news_metadata":"\"\"","apple_news_pullquote":"","apple_news_pullquote_position":"","apple_news_slug":"","apple_news_sections":["https:\/\/news-api.apple.com\/sections\/809cd9be-c9e5-4328-a27b-758e48e35422","https:\/\/news-api.apple.com\/sections\/8b012b20-6eb7-478f-914d-852b22a7d76e"],"apple_news_suppress_video_url":false,"apple_news_use_image_component":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[15522063],"tags":[14,15567156,15567176,350033,15523433,2050893,11705301,702,15567154,15567152,8343493,15567157,15567155,15567153,15567174,126,298,15567175],"dibs-categories":[15565982],"dibs-designs":[],"dibs-styles":[],"dibs-creators":[],"dibs-sellers":[15567177,15567178],"class_list":["post-345582","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-fashion","tag-antique","tag-bridgette-morphew","tag-chiso","tag-clothing","tag-fashion-2","tag-fashion-history","tag-japan","tag-japanese","tag-katy-rodriguez","tag-kimono","tag-lisa-santandrea","tag-morphew","tag-resurrection","tag-robe","tag-victoria-albert","tag-vintage","tag-vintage-fashion","tag-worcester-art-museum","dibs-categories-dibs-v","dibs-sellers-dibs-morphew","dibs-sellers-dibs-resurrection"],"acf":{"post_format":"article","subtitle":"We 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Santandrea","post_excerpt":"","post_status":"publish","comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","post_password":"","post_name":"lisa-santandrea","to_ping":"","pinged":"","post_modified":"2021-12-14 22:36:15","post_modified_gmt":"2021-12-15 03:36:15","post_content_filtered":"","post_parent":0,"guid":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/contributors\/lisa-santandrea\/","menu_order":0,"post_type":"contributors","post_mime_type":"","comment_count":"0","filter":"raw"}],"photographer":"","custom_byline":false}},"dibs_designs_tags":null,"dibs_sellers_tags":["dibs-morphew","dibs-resurrection"],"dibs_creators_tags":null,"dibs_styles_tags":null,"dibs_categories_tags":["dibs-v"],"featured_image_url":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/Maikos-in-Gion-Kyoto-Japan-C-Getty-Images-640x450.jpg","post_title":"After Centuries, the Kimono\u2019s Influence on Fashion Is Still 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years.","breadcrumb":{"@id":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/kimono-robes\/#breadcrumb"},"inLanguage":"en-US","potentialAction":[{"@type":"ReadAction","target":["https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/kimono-robes\/"]}]},{"@type":"ImageObject","inLanguage":"en-US","@id":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/kimono-robes\/#primaryimage","url":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/Maikos-in-Gion-Kyoto-Japan-C-Getty-Images.jpg","contentUrl":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/Maikos-in-Gion-Kyoto-Japan-C-Getty-Images.jpg","width":2000,"height":1333,"caption":"Maikos walking in Gion.Gion is an old district of Kyoto with old houses called machilla many of the tea houses and restaurants famous because it is were many Geishas ,called Geikos in this city, perform every night. For the well conserved architecture the presence of geikos and maikos and the abundance of entertainment it is also one of the main tourist attractions of the city. At the beginning of the century more than 80000 lived in Japan and 800 of those in Gion, nowadays it is believed that this number is less than 1500 all over the country.Around 200 geikos and around 70 maikos live in Kyoto. In spite of this decline thye last years have seen a resurgence of girls wanting to access this ancient profession that now not only entertains men but also other women families and foreigners that want to take a glimpse in the misterious world of the Geishas."},{"@type":"BreadcrumbList","@id":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/kimono-robes\/#breadcrumb","itemListElement":[{"@type":"ListItem","position":1,"name":"Home","item":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/"},{"@type":"ListItem","position":2,"name":"After Centuries, the Kimono\u2019s Influence on Fashion Is Still Strong"}]},{"@type":"WebSite","@id":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/#website","url":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/","name":"The Study","description":"1stDibs Blog about antique and modern furniture, jewelry, fashion & art","publisher":{"@id":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/#organization"},"potentialAction":[{"@type":"SearchAction","target":{"@type":"EntryPoint","urlTemplate":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/?s={search_term_string}"},"query-input":{"@type":"PropertyValueSpecification","valueRequired":true,"valueName":"search_term_string"}}],"inLanguage":"en-US"},{"@type":"Organization","@id":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/#organization","name":"1stDibs","url":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/","logo":{"@type":"ImageObject","inLanguage":"en-US","@id":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/#\/schema\/logo\/image\/","url":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/1stDibs_favicon_512x512-1.png","contentUrl":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/1stDibs_favicon_512x512-1.png","width":512,"height":512,"caption":"1stDibs"},"image":{"@id":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/#\/schema\/logo\/image\/"},"sameAs":["https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/1stdibs","https:\/\/x.com\/1stDibs","https:\/\/instagram.com\/1stdibs\/","https:\/\/www.linkedin.com\/company\/1stdibs-com\/","https:\/\/www.pinterest.com\/1stdibs\/"]}]}},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/345582","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=345582"}],"version-history":[{"count":4,"href":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/345582\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":419551,"href":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/345582\/revisions\/419551"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/346429"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=345582"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=345582"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=345582"},{"taxonomy":"dibs-categories","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/dibs-categories?post=345582"},{"taxonomy":"dibs-designs","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/dibs-designs?post=345582"},{"taxonomy":"dibs-styles","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/dibs-styles?post=345582"},{"taxonomy":"dibs-creators","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/dibs-creators?post=345582"},{"taxonomy":"dibs-sellers","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/dibs-sellers?post=345582"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}