{"id":347118,"date":"2020-10-16T16:21:10","date_gmt":"2020-10-16T20:21:10","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/?p=347118"},"modified":"2024-04-12T17:10:45","modified_gmt":"2024-04-12T21:10:45","slug":"1990s-fashion","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/1990s-fashion\/","title":{"rendered":"Too Soon for the Return of \u201990s Fashion? As If"},"content":{"rendered":"
\n
\"Influential<\/a>
Influential supermodels Linda Evangelista, Naomi Campbell and Christy Turlington, pictured in this Roxanne Lowit photo<\/a>, were known as the “Trinity” in the ’90s. <\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

If there was one concept unifying 1990s fashion<\/a>, it was the lean silhouette. \u201cFashion is a game of proportion<\/a>,\u201d Alexander Fury wrote in the New York Times<\/em> in 2016. \u201cNarrow-shouldered and narrow-hipped, the \u201990s were skinny.\u201d <\/p>\n\n\n\n

If it takes a practiced eye to identify that single concept, that\u2019s because in truth, ’90s fashion was many things to many people. After the 1980s<\/a> era of strong-shouldered working women, glossy aerobicized bodies and Madonna, fashion branched out.<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"Prada<\/a>
Prada cocktail dress, 1990s<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

The industry gained momentum from big-money relaunches of the great Paris houses Dior<\/a>, Givenchy<\/a> and Balenciaga<\/a>, rescued at long last from the constraints of licensing. Japan<\/a> and Belgium<\/a> gave fashion new avant-garde ideas to play with. From America came denim<\/a>, minimalism, grunge and hip-hop. From Italy came sex appeal<\/a>. And Prada<\/a>. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

For fashion lovers, the 1990s have become associated with styles adopted by today\u2019s supermodels and influencers, who never wear the same thing twice. And because fast fashion didn\u2019t yet exist, the design has a quality appreciated by the millennial generation: authenticity. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cThe ethos of the time was, you could have style, you could be into all kinds of cool stuff. It wasn\u2019t about money, it wasn\u2019t about status,\u201d says Katy Rodriguez, cofounder of Resurrection<\/a>. In contrast, “our last 10 years have seen the domination of nonstop luxury, money and status.\u201d <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Things were different in the \u201990s, and the difference is reflected in the clothes<\/a>. <\/strong>Pull up any recent \u201cHow to Do the 1990s\u201d fashion article (or look at photos of current supermodels Gigi, Kendall and Bella), and you\u2019ll see knee socks, cardigans<\/a>, fanny packs, fishnet stockings, slip dresses<\/a>, flannel shirts<\/a> and combat boots.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

These are the legacy of grunge, which Jonathan Poneman described in Vogue<\/em> in 1992 as \u201can invitation to dress down and party up.\u201d Why? Because \u201cgreed has gone to seed,\u201d he wrote. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n
\"Kurt<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Comme<\/figure>\n
In contrast to \u201990s minimalism, there was the layered look of grunge. Left: A portrait of Kurt Cobain by Jesse Frohman, 1994<\/a>. Right: Comme des Gar\u00e7ons pink plaid grunge dress, also 1994<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Rodriguez has recently noticed something similar happening. Before COVID, customers searched 1990s stock \u201cfor very sexy Galliano<\/a>, Dior, Cavalli<\/a> \u2014 that kind of thing,\u201d she explains, noting that just a few months ago, \u201cpeople were posting [on social media] the poshest things they could.\u201d Now, in the age of shutdown, “that would just look out of touch.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Instead, people are looking for “things that are cool but also easy and comfortable, not necessarily super-luxe,\u201d Rodriguez continues. They’re \u201cheading back to the more avant-garde, anti-fashion designers, like Helmut Lang<\/a>, [Martin] Margiela<\/a> and [Ann] Demeulemeester<\/a>.\u201d <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Cerebral and experimental, these designers flourished in the 1990s, creating designs that instead of speaking about sex and money \u2014 fashion’s traditional themes \u2014 conveyed a thoughtful sensuality and curiosity about the new. The woman they clothed was appealing because she looked interesting; she read the New York Review of Books<\/em>, not Cosmopolitan<\/em>. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

For the young millennials leading the \u201990s resurrection, this approach is appealing. \u201cMy generation discovered \u201990s fashion as a reaction to styles that were more overdone,\u201d says Alexandra Mitchell, 26, who has been collecting fashion since her teens. She remembers feeling underwhelmed by the embellished ripped jeans popular in her Richmond, Virginia, high school and searching for perfect Jil Sander<\/a> pants online. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Supermodels<\/a>
Supermodels<\/em> (portrait of famous ’90s models dressed in Versace), 1990s, by Michel Comte<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

\u201cWe’re the first generation that has had total access to information online. We could totally immerse ourselves in a real aesthetic from the past,\u201d Mitchell says. \u201cPeople would scan entire magazines, put them on Tumblr, and I would be able to see all the old images that I would have never had access to otherwise. To me, the \u201990s ads, photographers and editorials are as important as the designs.\u201d <\/p>\n\n\n\n

What\u2019s appealing about \u201990s fashion is the way it allows people to \u201cwear [their] own personal style,\u201d says Adam Blackman, of San Francisco\u2019s Sui Generis Consignment<\/a>. \u201cThe \u201990s screams clashing trends \u2014 from low maintenance to celebrity supermodels.\u201d Nonetheless, \u201cfashion was easy and uncomplicated. We couldn\u2019t love the influence more,\u201d he adds, grateful for a bit of \u201cnostalgia [and escape] from the current chaos of 2020.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\t

\n\t\t
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\n\t\t\t\t\"90s\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t
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\n\t\t\t\t\t\tBrowse All '90s Fashion on 1stDibs\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\tShop Now<\/span>\n\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

If there was one concept unifying 1990s fashion, it was the lean silhouette. \u201cFashion is a game of proportion,\u201d Alexander Fury wrote in the New York Times in 2016. \u201cNarrow-shouldered and narrow-hipped, the \u201990s were skinny.\u201d If it takes a practiced eye to identify that single concept, that\u2019s because in truth, ’90s fashion was many […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":293,"featured_media":347523,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"apple_news_api_created_at":"2020-10-18T06:05:58Z","apple_news_api_id":"710bf1c7-8115-4805-9111-eca8159fed62","apple_news_api_modified_at":"2020-10-18T06:05:59Z","apple_news_api_revision":"AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAQ==","apple_news_api_share_url":"https:\/\/apple.news\/AcQvxx4EVSAWREeyoFZ_tYg","apple_news_cover_media_provider":"image","apple_news_coverimage":0,"apple_news_coverimage_caption":"","apple_news_cover_video_id":0,"apple_news_cover_video_url":"","apple_news_cover_embedwebvideo_url":"","apple_news_is_hidden":"","apple_news_is_paid":"","apple_news_is_preview":"1","apple_news_is_sponsored":"","apple_news_maturity_rating":"","apple_news_metadata":"\"\"","apple_news_pullquote":"","apple_news_pullquote_position":"","apple_news_slug":"","apple_news_sections":["https:\/\/news-api.apple.com\/sections\/8b012b20-6eb7-478f-914d-852b22a7d76e","https:\/\/news-api.apple.com\/sections\/809cd9be-c9e5-4328-a27b-758e48e35422"],"apple_news_suppress_video_url":false,"apple_news_use_image_component":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[15522063],"tags":[12799153,15548831,15548801,300943,15523433,15567273,300963,15530583,15567154,8343493,2820393,15549723,15567155,15567272,15567271,298],"dibs-categories":[15565982],"dibs-designs":[],"dibs-styles":[],"dibs-creators":[15566522,15566517,15566515,15566523],"dibs-sellers":[],"class_list":["post-347118","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-fashion","tag-1990s","tag-ann-demeulemeester","tag-antwerp-six","tag-christian-dior","tag-fashion-2","tag-helmut-lang","tag-jil-sander","tag-john-galliano","tag-katy-rodriguez","tag-lisa-santandrea","tag-martin-margiela","tag-prada","tag-resurrection","tag-roberto-cavalli","tag-sui-generis","tag-vintage-fashion","dibs-categories-dibs-v","dibs-creators-dibs-christian-dior","dibs-creators-dibs-cristobal-balenciaga","dibs-creators-dibs-givenchy","dibs-creators-dibs-prada"],"acf":{"post_format":"article","subtitle":"There's 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