{"id":347175,"date":"2020-10-21T04:55:00","date_gmt":"2020-10-21T08:55:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/?p=347175"},"modified":"2022-10-20T13:54:37","modified_gmt":"2022-10-20T17:54:37","slug":"lovers-eye-jewelry","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/lovers-eye-jewelry\/","title":{"rendered":"Lover\u2019s Eye Jewelry: This Romantic (Yet Eerie) Tradition Is Entrancing Artists Right Now"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
\"Karen<\/a>
Karen Sugarman’s Suzanne Necklace<\/a> is composed of a newly painted lover’s eye set in a Victorian mourning locket and hung from a rope of seed pearls and Hessonite garnets.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Romantic. Mysterious. Enchanting. Jewelry incorporating what became known as lover\u2019s eyes<\/a> has captured the imagination (and hearts) of men and women for centuries.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It all began in 1785, when Maria Anne Fitzherbert received an unusual jewel from her lover, Prince George of Wales, the future George IV. The besotted prince had commissioned a miniature painting of his own eye for his beloved, a Catholic widow he was tragically forbidden to wed by royal law.<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"Georgian<\/a>
Gold and pearl pendant<\/a> with a painted lover’s eye, 1820<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

The eye talisman seems to have worked some magic: Soon after it was received, the two exchanged vows in a secret ceremony, and Maria Anne gave George a painting of her own eye encased in a locket \u2014 for him to gaze at and to watch over him in the life they were forced to live apart.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Nearly 250 years later, many still covet lover\u2019s eye jewels, notes New York\u2013based antique jewelry dealer Alice Kwartler<\/a>, who has been buying and selling such pieces for more than 40 years. \u201cLover\u2019s eyes are compelling pieces of wearable art,\u201d she says. \u201cThey suggest an intimate relationship between two people, since the identity of the loved one is not revealed. Only the wearer knows whose eye it is.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"Gold<\/a>
Gold and pearl pendant<\/a> with a painted lover’s eye, 1820<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

Although the eyes were traditionally worn by lovers, she adds, \u201cI have had mothers buy them for daughters, daughters for mothers, sisters and close friends for each other.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Most lover\u2019s eyes are painted on ivory or vellum, set in yellow gold pins, pendants or lockets and surrounded by pearls, diamonds or semiprecious stones like turquoise or amethysts. \u201cThe lockets also have hinged glass compartments in the back that open to hold a lock of hair,\u201d Kwartler says.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Antique jewelry lovers aren\u2019t the only ones beguiled by these amatory charms. Many contemporary jewelers and artists have also caught the fever and integrate lover\u2019s eyes into their designs.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Karen<\/a>
In Karen Sugarman’s Lilah necklace<\/a>, a newly painted lover’s eye in a Victorian locket is attached to a turquoise and cultured-pearl strand.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Karen Sugarman<\/a>, for instance, commissions watercolor artists to paint eyes, ensconcing them in antique lockets that she hangs from chains ornamented with precious and semiprecious stones and pearls \u2014 each piece unique. Occasionally, she will also fill the back of a two-sided glass locket with tiny charms or gemstones.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In one striking example<\/a>, a woman\u2019s blue eye, framed by a lock of blonde curls, gazes from a sterling-silver locket adorned with antique turquoises and pearls and attached to a thick chain of pearls and turquoise beads.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cIt\u2019s an incorporation of old and new,\u201d says Sugarman, a former interior designer. \u201cI make no claim that these are old ones. They\u2019re newly commissioned, but they\u2019re intriguing. People always want to know more about them.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"AnaKatarina's<\/a>
AnaKatarina’s Eye Love ring<\/a> features a carved agate eye in a sapphire, diamond and gold setting.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

Sugarman\u2019s designs replicate the romantic impulse of traditional lover\u2019s eyes. The contemporary rings, cuffs and necklaces created by Ana Katarina Dervisevic, on the other hand, are references to \u201cself-love and a reminder of your third eye, which connects you to your higher source,\u201d says Dervisevic, founder of the AnaKatarina<\/a> jewelry line.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

More amulet than tokens of affection, Dervisevic\u2019s eyes are not painted but sculpted, carved from blue Brazilian agate by a fourth-generation master cameo maker, and incorporated in pieces adorned with diamonds, sapphires and other precious stones.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Each eye is based either on one of her drawings or on a photograph provided by the client \u2014 always using the left eye, she explains, \u201cbecause the left eye is connected to the heart.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Lover's<\/a>
Lover’s Eye III: Meret (after Man Ray)<\/a><\/em>, 2013, by Tabitha Vevers<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Artist Tabitha Vevers<\/a> takes a more playful approach to the genre. Her first encounter with the form, she recalls, occurred while she was watching Antiques Road Show<\/em> in 1999. Someone had brought in a lover\u2019s eye painting, \u201cand I was so intrigued,\u201d she recalls. \u201cThey are portraits of an eye, but a way to capture a lover\u2019s gaze into one another\u2019s eyes while they\u2019re apart.\u201d <\/p>\n\n\n\n

She began painting miniatures on ivorine, using images of women\u2019s eyes from paintings created by men, \u201cthus reversing the gaze from that of the artist to that of the model,\u201d she says. \u201cIt was my antidote to art history, so much of which has been dominated by the male gaze.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Lover's<\/a>
Lover’s Eye III: Francoise (after Picasso)<\/a><\/em>, 2015, by Tabitha Vevers<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Vevers wound up producing several series of paintings. One, \u201cLover\u2019s Eyes III,\u201d explores the different ways Picasso and Man Ray treated the same model by using eyes from images each man made of M\u00e9ret Oppenheim, Dora Maar, Fran\u00e7oise Gilot and other women they both portrayed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Vevers calls another series, \u201cSaltwater-Tears,\u201d a \u201cmeditation on the nature of empathy.\u201d For these pieces, she employs crying eyes created by artists ranging from 15th-century Dutch painter Aelbrecht Bouts to late-20th-century Pop artists Andy Warhol<\/a> and Roy Lichtenstein<\/a>. Each painting, she explains, \u201ctakes me on its own journey.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

That might be said of the entire lover\u2019s eye genre. \u201cEvery piece of this jewelry tells a story,\u201d says Kwartler. \u201cIt is the still-living representation of an old love story, and it is now being passed to someone else with a story.\u201d And those stories, Dervisevic notes, \u201care always so beautiful.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\t

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Romantic. Mysterious. Enchanting. Jewelry incorporating what became known as lover\u2019s eyes has captured the imagination (and hearts) of men and women for centuries. It all began in 1785, when Maria Anne Fitzherbert received an unusual jewel from her lover, Prince George of Wales, the future George IV. The besotted prince had commissioned a miniature painting […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":347674,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"apple_news_api_created_at":"2020-10-22T15:57:24Z","apple_news_api_id":"7b17fedd-dc89-4ae7-9e11-158965cf1390","apple_news_api_modified_at":"2020-10-22T15:57:24Z","apple_news_api_revision":"AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA==","apple_news_api_share_url":"https:\/\/apple.news\/Aexf-3dyJSueeERWJZc8TkA","apple_news_cover_media_provider":"image","apple_news_coverimage":0,"apple_news_coverimage_caption":"","apple_news_cover_video_id":0,"apple_news_cover_video_url":"","apple_news_cover_embedwebvideo_url":"","apple_news_is_hidden":"","apple_news_is_paid":"","apple_news_is_preview":"1","apple_news_is_sponsored":"","apple_news_maturity_rating":"","apple_news_metadata":"\"\"","apple_news_pullquote":"","apple_news_pullquote_position":"","apple_news_slug":"","apple_news_sections":["https:\/\/news-api.apple.com\/sections\/8b012b20-6eb7-478f-914d-852b22a7d76e","https:\/\/news-api.apple.com\/sections\/809cd9be-c9e5-4328-a27b-758e48e35422"],"apple_news_suppress_video_url":false,"apple_news_use_image_component":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[260,15523143,112],"tags":[15567279,15550103,15567276,15567275,11700593,9772213,102,15567280,15567277,15526723,15567281,11327073,15550585],"dibs-categories":[15565903],"dibs-designs":[],"dibs-styles":[],"dibs-creators":[15567316],"dibs-sellers":[],"class_list":["post-347175","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-fine-art","category-jewelry-2","category-trending","tag-alice-kwartler","tag-alice-kwartler-antiques","tag-ana-katarina-dervisevic","tag-anakatarina","tag-antique-jewelry","tag-contemporary-jewelry","tag-jewelry","tag-karen-sugarman","tag-lovers-eye","tag-romantic","tag-tabitha-vevers","tag-trend","tag-wunderkammer","dibs-categories-dibs-j","dibs-creators-dibs-karen-sugarman-designs"],"acf":{"post_format":"article","subtitle":"For centuries, sweethearts used this genre to gaze upon their amours from a distance. 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