{"id":350089,"date":"2021-01-20T17:30:00","date_gmt":"2021-01-20T22:30:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/?p=350089"},"modified":"2021-12-15T05:36:07","modified_gmt":"2021-12-15T10:36:07","slug":"queens-gambit-vintage-costumes","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/queens-gambit-vintage-costumes\/","title":{"rendered":"The \u2018Queen\u2019s Gambit\u2019 Costumer Shares Her Strategy for the Show\u2019s Haute 1960s Fashions"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
\"Fashion-forward
Fictional fashion-forward chess star Beth Harmon (played by Anya Taylor-Joy) in The Queen’s Gambit<\/em>. Photo by Phil Bray, courtesy of Netflix \u00a9 2020<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

If you took up chess in the last few months, chances are you’d been watching the The Queen\u2019s Gambit<\/a><\/em>, the hit Netflix series chronicling the life of fictional chess prodigy Beth Harmon. According to a recent report, Google searches for the game have doubled since the show debuted this past autumn. A record-setting 62 million households streamed the show in its first 28 days, and game manufacturers have been selling chess sets faster than they can produce them. (Fortunately, a few deluxe and vintage sets are still available on 1stDibs<\/a>.)<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Set in the Cold War era and during the cultural revolution of the 1960s, The Queen\u2019s Gambit<\/em>, based on Walter Tevis\u2019s novel of the same name, is a compelling step back in time as well as a gripping coming-of-age drama. The story traces Beth\u2019s journey from orphaned child to gifted adult battling with addiction to rise through the grand master ranks.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Over the course of seven episodes, Beth\u2019s competitive drive takes her to Mexico City, New York, Paris, Las Vegas and Moscow. Along the way, she\u2019s exposed to \u2014 and embraces \u2014 daring new fashions and the latest pop music. As the series and the decade progress, so does Beth\u2019s style.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Harmon
Harmon wears a gender-bending Peter Pan collar in a very 1960s restaurant scene with her mother, Alma Wheatly (played by Marielle Heller); both are seated in Arne Jacobsen Swan chairs<\/a>. Photo courtesy of Netflix \u00a9 2020<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

By her late teens, she has ditched her drab suburban wardrobe (think dowdy pinafore dresses) for gamine garb, replete with Peter Pan collars, thigh-skimming hems and pastel prints (checkered of course). The looks are inspired by the rebellious aesthetics of the era\u2019s most notable designers, who were keen to reflect the uncompromising energy of a vibrant youth generation. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

The ensembles were created for the main characters by German costume designer Gabriele Binder<\/a>, who also managed the 30-person wardrobe team responsible for dressing the large cast of supporting actors and extras. (Remarkably, most scenes, including those shot in Mexico, were filmed in her home city of Berlin.) For Beth\u2019s outfits, Binder drew inspiration from names synonymous with the fashion revolution of the 1960s. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cCristobal Balenciaga<\/a> is one of my favorite designers,\u201d Binder tells us over the phone from her Berlin-based studio. \u201cHis work is so pure and sculptural. His radical pieces from the \u201960s were especially inspirational. In Ohio [in episode five], Beth wears a red coat that nods to his fluid style. In New York, she\u2019s seen in a gray miniskirt that references one designed by Nicolas Ghesqui\u00e8re<\/a> for Balenciaga in the early 2000s, which is based on a vintage silhouette by the couturier. So, these looks travel effortlessly through time.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Harmon
Harmon upgrades her wardrobe as she matures. Photo by Phil Bray, courtesy of Netflix \u00a9 2020<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Binder describes Beth\u2019s interest in fashion as stealthy. She gradually evolves from wallflower to geeky teen whiz to coquettish wonder woman as she becomes immersed in her adventure. Indeed, Beth\u2019s costumes reflect not only the colorful counterculture of the 1960s but also her own confidence as she ups her game.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In New York, she\u2019s influenced by a Warholian Factory Girl<\/a> look, while in Paris, she becomes a French soubrette in the image of a young Catherine Deneuve or Fran\u00e7oise Hardy. In Moscow, she mixes a killer instinct with kittenish femininity, exemplified by her green velvet baby-doll dress with large decorative bow collar, inspired by an original design by Biba<\/a>, whose skimpy cuts and sumptuous fabrics summon the famous Swinging London style.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cBeth has an edge, but she finds it through misunderstandings rather than intuition,\u201d says Binder, citing the awkward moment in episode three when the chess champ attends a high school party in a flouncy little black dress. She hopes to fit in with the popular girls but winds up looking uncomfortable.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"A
Green is Harmon’s go-to color throughout the series, as during this tense match with chess master Vasiliy Borgov (played by Marcin Dorocinski), whom Harmon dubs \u201cthe Russian.” Photo by Phil Bray, courtesy of Netflix \u00a9 2020<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Beth\u2019s true style, which she has yet to assert, is more \u201cnatural and unfussy,\u201d says Binder. For later scenes, the costume designer looked to the graphic and sharply minimalist designs of Andr\u00e9 Courr\u00e8ges<\/a> and Pierre Cardin<\/a>. The iconic shift dresses of Yves Saint Laurent<\/a> were also a reference point: \u201cIn Paris, she wears a nude-colored shift dress with a black block design, which was our version of a YSL Mondrian dress,\u201d Binder notes, “although there\u2019s a hint of Cardin there too, as it\u2019s quite futuristic.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Green is definitely Beth Harmon\u2019s go-to color. It complements her signature red bob, of course, but also carries hidden meaning. When we meet her at the age of eight, she\u2019s wearing a pale-green dress embroidered by her mother with her name and a heart design.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Significantly, Beth wears this delicate green again, in a structured mini dress, for the suspenseful game of the finale. According to Binder, this sartorial \u201cloop back in time\u201d connotes a kind of homecoming, as Beth finally makes peace with her past.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"The
The silhouette formed by this long white coat and pom-pom beret is meant to recall a queen chess piece. Photo courtesy of Netflix \u00a9 2020<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Even more symbolic is the all-white ensemble that she wears in the very last scene of the series, as she walks through a Moscow park. The sleekly tailored Left Bank beatnik look has more than a hint of Courr\u00e8ges flair, not least because it conveys the sense of avant-garde newness championed by the futuristic French couturier, who was known for his minimalist lines and geometric shapes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Binder initially looked to a more literal source of inspiration, however. \u201cHer long white coat and white pom-pom beret are directly drawn from the shape of the queen figure on a chessboard,\u201d says the designer. “The challenge was to create an ultra-modern cut and not something that could be mistaken for traditional Russian dress.” The deceptively simple attire carries allegorical complexity, as Beth realizes she is queen of her own destiny.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Some outfits from the show can be explored in detail, thanks to the virtual exhibition “The Queen and The Crown<\/a>,” presented by the Brooklyn Museum. Does Binder have any favorites? <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Beth
Harmon makes a grand entrance in a chessboard-like black-and-white dress. Photo courtesy of Netflix \u00a9 2020<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

One is the blue T-shirt with a bateau neck that Beth wears tucked into a billowing white skirt during her match at the U.S. Open in Las Vegas in episode three. \u201cYou\u2019d think it would be easy to buy,\u201d Binder says, \u201cbut actually this piece was cut and structured so that it looks good at every angle.\u201d <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Many of the vintage pieces sourced by Binder for research were unbranded, crafted by hand at home and inspired by the mod styles of such firebrand designers as Mary Quant<\/a> in London and Rudi Gernreich<\/a> in Los Angeles. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

But there were some couture-related revelations, including the beige-and-black check coat with choker-style collar that Beth wears on her way to her last tournament. \u201cIt was sourced from a costume house in Los Angeles and was made by Andr\u00e9 Courr\u00e8ges for an American fashion label I knew little about called Samuel Robert<\/a>,\u201d says the designer. “It is really one of Beth’s most memorable looks,\u201d highlighting the fact that the most enduring styles are those that express elegance with a touch of mystery.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It just goes to show that fashion and chess really aren\u2019t so different.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

If you took up chess in the last few months, chances are you’d been watching the The Queen\u2019s Gambit, the hit Netflix series chronicling the life of fictional chess prodigy Beth Harmon. According to a recent report, Google searches for the game have doubled since the show debuted this past autumn. A record-setting 62 million […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":350612,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"apple_news_api_created_at":"2021-01-22T16:16:31Z","apple_news_api_id":"fec88701-38b9-4925-85f2-2cd2476ee95b","apple_news_api_modified_at":"2021-12-15T05:52:39Z","apple_news_api_revision":"AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA==","apple_news_api_share_url":"https:\/\/apple.news\/A_siHATi5SSWF8izSR27pWw","apple_news_cover_media_provider":"image","apple_news_coverimage":0,"apple_news_coverimage_caption":"","apple_news_cover_video_id":0,"apple_news_cover_video_url":"","apple_news_cover_embedwebvideo_url":"","apple_news_is_hidden":"","apple_news_is_paid":"","apple_news_is_preview":"","apple_news_is_sponsored":"","apple_news_maturity_rating":"","apple_news_metadata":"\"\"","apple_news_pullquote":"","apple_news_pullquote_position":"","apple_news_slug":"","apple_news_sections":["https:\/\/news-api.apple.com\/sections\/8b012b20-6eb7-478f-914d-852b22a7d76e","https:\/\/news-api.apple.com\/sections\/809cd9be-c9e5-4328-a27b-758e48e35422"],"apple_news_suppress_video_url":false,"apple_news_use_image_component":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[15522063,160,112],"tags":[972,15567312,15567524,15537863,15567528,13787943,3383,15548311,15567527,15567521,15551079,349963,15567517,15523433,15567058,12827503,15567523,325293,15567520,15567525,15567513,15567409,15550686,15567522,11020703,4816723,8672603,15567514,15567516,15529383,15541183,184,15567518,15567526,114,15567515,15567519,301173,164,412],"dibs-categories":[],"dibs-designs":[],"dibs-styles":[],"dibs-creators":[],"dibs-sellers":[],"class_list":["post-350089","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-fashion","category-red-carpet","category-trending","tag-1960s","tag-alexandra-zagalsky","tag-alma-wheatly","tag-andre-courreges","tag-anya-taylor-joy","tag-arne-jacobsen","tag-balenciaga","tag-berlin","tag-beth-harmon","tag-biba","tag-chess","tag-costume","tag-costume-designer","tag-fashion-2","tag-feminism","tag-feminist","tag-gabriele-binder","tag-london","tag-marcin-dorocinski","tag-marielle-heller","tag-mary-quant","tag-moscow","tag-netflix","tag-nicolas-ghesquiere","tag-pierre-cardin","tag-rudi-gernreich","tag-russia","tag-samuel-robert","tag-series","tag-show","tag-swan-chair","tag-television","tag-the-queen-and-the-crown","tag-the-queens-gambit","tag-trending-2","tag-tv","tag-vasiliy-borgov","tag-wardrobe","tag-ysl","tag-yves-saint-laurent"],"acf":{"post_format":"article","subtitle":"Gabriele Binder talks us through some of the iconic designer looks that inspired Beth Harmon's coquettish style in the hit Netflix series.","show_date":true,"interstitial_banners":false,"show_related_items_footer_popup":true,"slideshows":false,"related_items":[{"related_product_url":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/buy\/antique-chess-boards\/","related_product_title":"Chess Sets","related_product_image_url":"","related_product_image":350776,"related_product_image_customize":true},{"related_product_url":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/creators\/andre-courreges\/fashion\/?per=1960s","related_product_title":"Andr\u00e9 Courr\u00e8ges","related_product_image_url":"","related_product_image":350777,"related_product_image_customize":true},{"related_product_url":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/creators\/yves-saint-laurent\/?per=1960s","related_product_title":"Yves Saint Laurent","related_product_image_url":"https:\/\/a.1stdibscdn.com\/archivesE\/upload\/1121189\/v_112180021610110589060\/11218002_org.jpg?width=180&auto=webp","related_product_image":false,"related_product_image_customize":false},{"related_product_url":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/creators\/rudi-gernreich\/fashion\/","related_product_title":"Rudi Gernreich","related_product_image_url":"","related_product_image":350778,"related_product_image_customize":true}],"contributors":{"hide_byline":false,"columnist":[{"ID":361856,"post_author":"456","post_date":"2021-12-14 22:36:15","post_date_gmt":"2021-12-15 03:36:15","post_content":"\n

Alexandra Zagalsky is a London-based journalist specializing in luxury topics, art and travel content. She began her journalistic career in Paris, where she worked on a cultural guide for English-speaking expats. Her first big break was an interview with Lionel Poil\u00e2ne, the late, venerable baker from Paris\u2019s Saint-Germain-des-Pr\u00e9s district who popularized the two-kilogram sourdough loaf and once made a bread chandelier for Salvador Dal\u00ed<\/a>.

Zagalsky moved back to London in her early 20s and has since worked with a number of august publications, including the Week<\/em>, the Telegraph<\/em>, the Times<\/em> and a variety of art and design outlets, such as Introspective<\/em><\/a> and V&A<\/em>, Sotheby\u2019s<\/em> and Christie\u2019s<\/em> magazines. She studied fine art and the history of art at Goldsmiths, University of London, and continues to explore the contemporary art scene, including the world of NFTs.

She has written extensively on the subject of vintage watches<\/a> and describes the Cartier<\/a> Crash as her favorite timepiece. \u201cIt\u2019s a great emblem of the Swinging Sixties and an adaptation of the house\u2019s classic Baignoire<\/a> Allong\u00e9e wristwatch, its sinuous Daliesque style apparently inspired by a model brought into the London Cartier workshop that had been distorted in a car crash,\u201d she says. \u201cI love it for all sorts of reasons, not least because it\u2019s so unconventional and daring, as all great design objects often are.\u201d

Find out more about Zagalsky\u2019s work on Linkedin<\/a>.<\/p>\n","post_title":"Alexandra Zagalsky","post_excerpt":"","post_status":"publish","comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","post_password":"","post_name":"alexandra-zagalsky","to_ping":"","pinged":"","post_modified":"2025-11-27 03:14:00","post_modified_gmt":"2025-11-27 08:14:00","post_content_filtered":"","post_parent":0,"guid":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/contributors\/alexandra-zagalsky\/","menu_order":0,"post_type":"contributors","post_mime_type":"","comment_count":"0","filter":"raw"}],"photographer":"","custom_byline":false}},"dibs_designs_tags":null,"dibs_sellers_tags":null,"dibs_creators_tags":null,"dibs_styles_tags":null,"dibs_categories_tags":null,"featured_image_url":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/TQG_104_Unit_00367RC-640x450.jpg","post_title":"The \u2018Queen\u2019s Gambit\u2019 Costumer Shares Her Strategy for the Show\u2019s Haute 1960s Fashions","fimg_url":{"thumbnail":{"source_url":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/TQG_104_Unit_00367RC-120x80.jpg","width":120,"height":80},"medium":{"source_url":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/TQG_104_Unit_00367RC-525x350.jpg","width":525,"height":350},"full":{"source_url":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/TQG_104_Unit_00367RC.jpg","width":1800,"height":1200}},"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/TQG_104_Unit_00367RC.jpg","apple_news_notices":[],"yoast_head":"\nThe \u2018Queen\u2019s Gambit\u2019 Costumer Shares Her Strategy for the Show\u2019s Haute 1960s Fashions | The Study<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Gabriele Binder talks us through some of the iconic designer looks that inspired Beth Harmon's coquettish style in the hit Netflix series.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, 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