{"id":397406,"date":"2022-05-06T14:20:06","date_gmt":"2022-05-06T18:20:06","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/?p=397406"},"modified":"2022-05-06T17:44:42","modified_gmt":"2022-05-06T21:44:42","slug":"mahnaz-collection-women-of-vision","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/mahnaz-collection-women-of-vision\/","title":{"rendered":"Celebrate 70 Years of Visionary Female Jewelry Designers"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
\"Wendy<\/a>
\u201cWomen of Vision: 70 Years of Shaping the Jewelry World, 1950\u2013Present\u201d is on view at Mahnaz Collection<\/a>, in New York, through May 12.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

If you\u2019re in New York this week, perhaps to attend TEFAF, make time to stop by Mahnaz Collection<\/a>\u2019s gallery, which is hosting its first major exhibition of female jewelers. Titled \u201cWomen of Vision: 70 Years of Shaping the Jewelry World, 1950\u2013Present,\u201d it encompasses more than 250 items by 25 jewelers, including Solange Azagury-Partridge<\/a>, Alice Cicolini<\/a>, Melanie Eddy, Cora Sheibani, Tess Sholom, Van Gelder Jewellery and more.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Curated by noted dealer Mahnaz Ispahani Bartos,<\/a> <\/strong>the exhibition highlights the featured jewelers\u2019 explorations of new directions \u2014 minimalist, modernist, organic, sculptural, brutalist, feminist \u2014 through the use of material, form, color, scale and technique, bolstered by an innate understanding of how jewelry connects with the female body.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

For those who can\u2019t get to New York before the show ends on May 12, we asked Bartos to identify 10 names every jewelry collector should know and explain why each is a \u201cwoman of vision.\u201d She also points to jewels in the exhibition that exemplify each designer\u2019s unique aesthetic \u2014 and happily, they\u2019re all available on 1stDibs. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Naturally, Elsa Peretti<\/a> makes the list, as do two well-known names from Georg Jensen<\/a>\u2019s exceptionally talented corps. But there are many more leading ladies of jewelry’s recent history to discover \u2014 and this is a great place to start. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

Nanna Ditzel<\/strong> <\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"Nanna<\/a>

Nanna and J\u00f8rgen Ditzel for Georg Jensen sterling silver earring and cuff set, in original fitted box, ca. 1960s<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

\u201cNanna Ditzel<\/a> was the first woman to design for Georg Jensen<\/a>, starting in 1954 with her husband, J\u00f8rgen, who died a few years later. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

“She is considered the most successful Danish designer across fields \u2014 furniture design and jewelry \u2014 in the 20th century, creating jewelry while her children slept! And she went on to win numerous major national and international awards for her simple yet finely shaped works in silver and gold, advancing the \u2018Scandinavian style\u2019 in jewelry and furniture.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

Vivianna Torun B\u00fclow-H\u00fcbe<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"Vivianna<\/a>
Vivianna Torun for Georg Jensen rutilated quartz and sterling silver bangle, ca. 1970<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

\u201cThe superstar in Georg Jensen’s pantheon of gifted designers, Torun<\/a> \u2014 as she was often simply called \u2014 pushed design boundaries with a distinctively feminine touch. Working in silver for its fluidity, she preferred pebbles, wood and quartz to precious stones and was one of the first female designers to achieve international fame. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

“For her, jewelry was to be worn consistently, whatever the occasion or lack thereof. Frustrated with women wearing glamorous gems to appear glamorous, she once said, \u2018Adornment has lost its true innocence.\u2019 <\/p>\n\n\n\n

“She <\/strong>insisted that jewelry must marry itself to the contours of a woman’s body, noting, \u2018It should enhance and move with the body to blend with you. . . . it must be timeless. It shouldn’t matter if you are 17 or 87 years old.\u2019 \u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

Gerda Fl\u00f6ckinger <\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"Gerda<\/a>
Gerda Fl\u00f6ckinger pearl, diamond and textured 18 karat gold ring, ca. 1970<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

\u201cGerda Fl\u00f6ckinger<\/a> was pioneering, influential and one of the earliest independent jewelry designers and goldsmiths. She was the first living female jeweler to have a solo show at the Victoria and Albert Museum, in 1971. The museum also commissioned its first piece of modern\/contemporary jewelry \u2014 a necklet \u2014 from her. And Queen Elizabeth II awarded her a CBE [Commander of the Order of the British Empire].\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

Sonwai <\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"Sonwai<\/a>


Verma Nequatewa (Sonwai) ebony, Vermillion wood, Lone Mountain turquoise, lapis, gold and sterling silver height inlay cuff, 2020<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

\u201cIn the 1960s, Sonwai<\/a> was an apprentice to her uncle, the master jeweler Charles Loloma<\/a>, the most transformative Hopi artist and jeweler of the 20th century.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cThough her birth name was Verma Nequatewa, she worked under the artistic name Sonwai, which means ‘beautiful,’ the feminine counterpart to Loloma in the Hopi language. How right that seems.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

“She eventually became a master goldsmith and lapidary in her own right, an extraordinary achievement in communities where mainly men make jewelry.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

Eveli Sabatie <\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"Eveli<\/a>
Eveli Sabatie turquoise and silver ring with articulated parts, ca. 1970<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

\u201cA French artist jeweler with a doctorate who was raised in Morocco, Eveli Sabatie<\/a> found herself learning from, and then influencing the work of, Loloma. From 1968 to 1972, she lived in Hopi land and apprenticed with Loloma alongside Sonwai. She went on to have an independent career as a jeweler creating highly sculptural jewels in the American Southwest.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

Zaha Hadid <\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"Zaha<\/a>
Zaha Hadid for Georg Jensen 18 karat gold Lamallae twin ring, 2016<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n


<\/strong>\u201cThis Iraqi-born designer is recognized as the most prominent woman architect of the late 20th and early 21st centuries and was once described by the Guardian<\/em> newspaper as the \u2018Queen of the curve,\u2019 who \u2018liberated architectural geometry, giving it a whole new expressive identity.\u2019 <\/p>\n\n\n\n

“In 2016, Zaha Hadid<\/a> brought this free architectural geometry to an important jewelry collaboration with Georg Jensen, which launched just after her untimely death that same year.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

Wendy Ramshaw<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"Wendy<\/a>
Wendy Ramshaw resin and nickel alloy Orbit necklace, 1988<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

\u201cWendy Ramshaw<\/a> was an innovator who worked across mediums \u2014 ceramics, jewelry, sculpture. And she invented stacking rings \u2014 she even won an award for them in 1972. She began making paper jewelry in the 1960s for fashion designer Mary Quant<\/a>, long before \u2018contemporary\u2019 jewelry took hold of our imaginations. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

“Breaking down the barriers between jewelry and sculpture with her famed ring sets, she also designed the Gates to Hyde Park in London, among other famous ventures. She was honored by the Queen twice, the recipient of both a CBE and an OCE [Officer of the Order of the British Empire].\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

Sophia Vari <\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"Sophia<\/a>

Sophia Vari limited-edition Pao Amarillo wood and 18-karat gold Clytia earclips, 21st century<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

\u201cSophia Vari<\/a> achieved international acclaim first as a sculptor. Such artists do not necessarily make good jewelers. Yet Vari\u2019s jewels, created by hand in gold, silver, ebony and other materials, have an archaic quality, simultaneously geometric and abstract, and tell mythic tales. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

“Just as her monumental sculptures change the conversation in public spaces where they are installed, her jewelry \u2014 its form, composition, material, color and cultural influences \u2014 wholly engages the wearer.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

Elsa Peretti<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"Elsa<\/a>
<\/a>Elsa Peretti for Tiffany & Co.<\/a> 18-karat gold Capricorn zodiac cuff, 1982<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

\u201cOne of Tiffany’s most successful design partners, Elsa Peretti<\/a> began her career not as a designer but as a model in New York (her best friend was Halston<\/a>). Wealthy herself, she designed for the 1970s working woman, who had a new kind of day-to-night lifestyle that demanded modern jewelry designs, not only in gold but also in silver. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

“Among her most iconic designs for the American jewelry house is her Bone cuff<\/a>, famously donned by Hollywood stars such as Liza Minnelli and Sophia Loren; the Diamonds by the Yard series; and her Scorpion and Snake collections.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

Barbara Cartlidge <\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"A<\/a>
A pair of Barbara Cartlidge handmade amethyst slice and 18-karat gold earrings, 1970<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

\u201cArguably the most influential gallerist of 1960s and 1970s London, Barbara Cartlidge<\/a> was an artist jeweler who also helped start and guide the careers of countless artists and jewelers, including David Watkins, Ramshaw and Fl\u00f6ckinge. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

“In 1971, she cofounded Electrum Gallery as a space for budding contemporary art jewelers to show their work. Electrum placed Cartlidge and the artist jewelers she represented on the map, making London a key destination in the art-jewelry world.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\t

\n\t\t
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\n\t\t\t\t\"\"\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\tShop Mahnaz Collection Jewelry on 1stDibs\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\tView All<\/span>\n\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

If you\u2019re in New York this week, perhaps to attend TEFAF, make time to stop by Mahnaz Collection\u2019s gallery, which is hosting its first major exhibition of female jewelers. Titled \u201cWomen of Vision: 70 Years of Shaping the Jewelry World, 1950\u2013Present,\u201d it encompasses more than 250 items by 25 jewelers, including Solange Azagury-Partridge, Alice Cicolini, […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":293,"featured_media":397859,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"apple_news_api_created_at":"2022-05-06T18:20:53Z","apple_news_api_id":"031cba8c-befe-40fe-a332-df9ed1dfdae1","apple_news_api_modified_at":"2022-05-06T21:41:57Z","apple_news_api_revision":"AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAw==","apple_news_api_share_url":"https:\/\/apple.news\/AAxy6jL7-QP6jMt-e0d_a4Q","apple_news_cover_media_provider":"image","apple_news_coverimage":0,"apple_news_coverimage_caption":"","apple_news_cover_video_id":0,"apple_news_cover_video_url":"","apple_news_cover_embedwebvideo_url":"","apple_news_is_hidden":"","apple_news_is_paid":"","apple_news_is_preview":"","apple_news_is_sponsored":"","apple_news_maturity_rating":"","apple_news_metadata":"\"\"","apple_news_pullquote":"","apple_news_pullquote_position":"","apple_news_slug":"","apple_news_sections":[],"apple_news_suppress_video_url":false,"apple_news_use_image_component":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[15523143],"tags":[15568984,15567960,15568980,102,15550736,15568977,15550877,15568981,15568983,15567160,15568982,4713],"dibs-categories":[15565903],"dibs-designs":[],"dibs-styles":[],"dibs-creators":[],"dibs-sellers":[15568979],"class_list":["post-397406","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-jewelry-2","tag-barbara-cartlidge","tag-elsa-peretti","tag-gerda-flockinger","tag-jewelry","tag-mahnaz-collection","tag-mahnaz-ispahani-bartos","tag-nanna-ditzel","tag-sonwai","tag-sophia-vari","tag-vivianna-torun-bulow-hube","tag-wendy-ramshaw","tag-zaha-hadid","dibs-categories-dibs-j","dibs-sellers-dibs-mc-jewels"],"acf":{"post_format":"article","subtitle":"Influential \u2014 and highly collectible \u2014 women jewelers from 1950 to the present day are the focus of a new exhibit at Mahnaz Collection\u2019s NYC gallery.","contributors":{"hide_byline":false,"columnist":[{"ID":361857,"post_author":"293","post_date":"2021-12-14 22:36:15","post_date_gmt":"2021-12-15 03:36:15","post_content":"\n

Amy Elliott is a freelance writer who specializes in fine jewelry. A lively presence in the editorial community for more than two decades, she has held senior staff positions at the Knot<\/em>, Brides<\/em> and Lucky<\/em> magazines, was the engagement rings expert at About.com and currently writes jewelry stories for an array of print and online media, including JCK<\/em> (where she is a contributing editor), the Zing Report<\/em> and the New York Times<\/em>. Her byline has also appeared in DuJour<\/em>, Galerie<\/em>, Martha Stewart Weddings<\/em>, Wynn<\/em>, Gotham<\/em> and Hamptons<\/em>, among other publications.<\/p>\n","post_title":"Amy Elliott","post_excerpt":"","post_status":"publish","comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","post_password":"","post_name":"amy-elliott","to_ping":"","pinged":"","post_modified":"2025-09-03 16:23:37","post_modified_gmt":"2025-09-03 20:23:37","post_content_filtered":"","post_parent":0,"guid":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/contributors\/amy-elliott\/","menu_order":0,"post_type":"contributors","post_mime_type":"","comment_count":"0","filter":"raw"}],"photographer":"","custom_byline":false},"show_date":true,"interstitial_banners":[{"acf_fc_layout":"collection","interstitial_banner_shortcode":"mahnaz-collection","interstitial_banner_background_image":397837,"interstitial_banner_heading":"Shop Mahnaz Collection Jewelry on 1stDibs","interstitial_banner_subheading":"","interstitial_banner_button_text":"View All","interstitial_banner_button_url":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/dealers\/mc-jewels\/"}],"show_related_items_footer_popup":false,"slideshows":false},"dibs_designs_tags":null,"dibs_sellers_tags":["dibs-mc-jewels"],"dibs_creators_tags":null,"dibs_styles_tags":null,"dibs_categories_tags":["dibs-j"],"featured_image_url":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/female_designers-640x450.jpg","post_title":"Celebrate 70 Years of Visionary Female Jewelry 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