{"id":397967,"date":"2022-06-03T15:00:00","date_gmt":"2022-06-03T19:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/?p=397967"},"modified":"2025-01-16T17:26:23","modified_gmt":"2025-01-16T22:26:23","slug":"how-to-buy-a-rolex","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/how-to-buy-a-rolex\/","title":{"rendered":"Rolex Buying Guide: Everything You Need to Know about Choosing the Right Watch"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
\"Rolex<\/a>
Rolex Cosmograph Daytona ref. 116503, 2021<\/a>; Rolex GMT-Master ref. 16700, ca. 1990<\/a>; and Rolex Submariner ref. 126610LV, 2020<\/a> <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

It\u2019s time. Congratulations! <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Purchasing a Rolex<\/a> is an exciting and memorable experience. Whether you\u2019re shopping for a Rolex to celebrate a milestone, honor an achievement, make a statement or just because<\/em>, knowing the ins and outs of buying this luxury watch will pay off when you walk away from the deal with a timepiece that seems like it was made just for you.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

This Rolex buying guide is designed to help you navigate the various decisions involved in buying a Rolex, from selecting the materials and movement to deciding on the age and adornments.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Which to Buy: New, Pre-Owned or Vintage?<\/h2>\n\n\n
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\"Rolex<\/a>
Rolex Datejust ref. 16200, 2010<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

The first question to ask yourself is whether you want a new, pre-owned or vintage Rolex. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

New<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

The demand for Rolex watches has soared in recent years. This has led to wait lists at authorized Rolex dealers extending as long as several years for new versions of popular models, like the Daytona<\/a>, Submariner<\/a> and GMT-Master<\/a>. For some buyers, the wait is worth it, but others aren\u2019t so patient.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Buying a new, never-worn watch enables you to build a history with it that isn\u2019t shared by anyone else. Keep in mind, however, that if you purchase a new Rolex from an authorized dealer, your choices are restricted to current models.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Pre-Owned<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Limited editions sell quickly, collections change, and references are sometimes discontinued to keep Rolex\u2019s catalogue fresh. This means that if you aren\u2019t in a position to purchase now, by the time you are, the model you\u2019ve got your eye on may no longer be available. But if you miss out on the model you covet when it\u2019s brand-new, there’s a good chance you’ll be able to find it down the line as a pre-owned piece.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Although definitions vary, pre-owned watches are generally those less than 20 years old, while vintage ones are 20 years old and up. Rolex didn\u2019t become the most recognized luxury watch brand in the world<\/a> by selling products that aren\u2019t built to last. For more than a century, it has made timepieces for visionaries and pioneers, who have carried them to the highest and lowest points on the planet. <\/p>\n\n\n

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\"2021<\/a>
The 2021 Rolex Sea-Dweller Deepsea James Cameron ref. 126660<\/a> features a helium escape valve, which would allow it to reach the Titanic<\/em>, at a depth of 12,800 feet.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

Every Rolex is constructed in-house and rigorously tested to ensure that it upholds the maker\u2019s reputation for excellence when it leaves the facility. So, if you\u2019re buying a pre-owned watch from someone who wore it in extreme conditions while climbing Mount Everest, that\u2019s an amazing backstory, not an issue \u2014 Rolexes are built for that.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The greatest advantage to buying a pre-owned Rolex is that it opens up a wider range of models to consider, including rare ones that have been discontinued. On 1stDibs, you\u2019ll find a large selection of pre-owned and vintage Rolexes<\/a>. Among them you may spot new and like-new (mint) models that were purchased but never worn. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Another plus is that a pre-owned Rolex experiences less of an initial depreciation than a new one and will lose value more slowly over time. The depreciation rate of a particular watch depends on a number of factors, including the model, materials and market demand. The greatest drop in the value of a Rolex generally occurs right after it\u2019s been purchased new, although not every Rolex experiences depreciation to the same degree.<\/p>\n\n\n

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\"Rolex<\/a>
Rolex Submariner “Hulk” ref. 116610LV, Contemporary<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

It\u2019s worth noting that Rolex watches \u2014 perhaps more than any other brand’s timepieces \u2014 hold their value over time. And some vintage and pre-owned models, like the emerald-green Rolex Submariner \u201cHulk,\u201d<\/a> have been known to appreciate well above their original purchase price.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Vintage<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Browsing vintage Rolexes is great fun for those who appreciate a watch\u2019s history<\/a>. Whether it\u2019s a highly coveted \u201cPaul Newman\u201d Daytona<\/a> or an 18-karat-gold Oyster Perpetual Datejust<\/a> like the one Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf presented to British prime minister Winston Churchill in 1947, there\u2019s no shortage of famous examples to explore.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

By shopping the past, you have the opportunity to share in the history both of previous wearers and of Rolex itself, through the earlier styles and innovations that made it the luxury brand it is today.<\/p>\n\n\n

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\"Rolex
Rolex wristwatch with velvet case, ca. 1934<\/a> <\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

Shopping vintage doesn\u2019t mean buying a watch with a shorter shelf life. With proper care and servicing, a vintage Rolex can be passed down through generations as a family heirloom or resold to a collector or investor. The market for vintage Rolexes is a thrilling one to explore, especially if you\u2019re hunting for a rare or historically significant watch.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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What Makes a Rolex a Rolex?<\/h2>\n\n\n
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\"Rolex<\/a>
Rolex Submariner “Bluesy” ref. 16613, 1997<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

Before shopping for a Rolex online, you may want to become acquainted with its components so that you can easily compare and contrast your options. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Movement<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Like a beating heart, the movement, or caliber, is the intricate mechanism that keeps the watch running smoothly. Over the years, Rolex has used both mechanical movements, powered by a manually or automatically wound mainspring, and battery-powered quartz ones.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Prior to 1931, Rolex watches required manual winding. That year, the company introduced the first Bubbleback<\/a> model, which offered a self-winding, or automatic, movement that used the wearer\u2019s arm motions to keep the watch working \u2014 no batteries required.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Although Rolex is better known for its mechanical movements, it produced a number of quartz watches, like the Rolex Oysterquartz<\/a>. The company stopped making quartz models in 2001, but these unusual references are still prized by collectors.<\/p>\n\n\n

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\"Rolex<\/a>
Rolex Oysterquartz “Pyramid” ref. 19028, 1986<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

Most Rolexes have mechanical movements, which will inevitably require servicing. Look for servicing records when buying a vintage watch, and keep your receipts after your own maintenance visits. These records tend to increase a watch’s value, as they give prospective buyers more peace of mind that it has been properly cared for. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Case<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

The case is the watch housing. Rolex cases vary in size from 44 millimeters, for larger sport watches like the Yacht-Master II<\/a>, to 24 millimeters, for some vintage Oyster Perpetuals<\/a>. The classic size is 34 to 36 millimeters. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Lugs<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

The lugs, sometimes called horns, are the projections on a watch where the strap or bracelet is attached to the case. Common styles seen on Rolexes include Explorer lugs (which run in a straight line from the widest point of the case and are named for the Rolex Explorer<\/a>, although they\u2019re used by many watch brands), as well as wire, hooded, teardrop and Bombay lugs.<\/p>\n\n\n

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\"Rolex<\/a>
Rolex Explorer II ref. 216570, 2020<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

On vintage Rolexes, each lug has a hole through which the bracelet attachment bar slides. On today\u2019s models, the hole is concealed on the inside of the lug. These watches are often called \u201cRolex no holes.\u201d <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Crown and Pushers<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

The crown of a watch is the round knob that allows you to wind it and set the time. Not to be confused with the coronet, or the Rolex crown logo, the winding crown is the only part of the watch\u2019s movement you can touch. <\/p>\n\n\n

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\"Rolex
Rolex Cosmograph Daytona ref. 16523, 1989<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

All modern Rolex watches have a coronet etched into their crowns, along with one of several other marks. Different models have different markings, including crosses, dots and lines. These denote the material used in the watch and the type of crown structure it has \u2014 either a water-resistant Twinlock or a waterproof Triplock, for diving watches. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

The pushers are buttons, usually found on either side of the crown, that control features like a chronograph\u2019s stopwatch function.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Dial<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

The dial of a watch refers to the display, or face, that shows the time. Standard Rolex dials are brass, but others may be made of mother-of-pearl, meteorite or hard stones like lapis, onyx or opal. <\/p>\n\n\n

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\"1996<\/a>
This 1996 Rolex Datejust ref. 6931889<\/a> has a lapis dial and Pearlmaster band. The hands point to 12 diamonds around the bezel rather than on the dial, which is numberless for an uncluttered look.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

Standard dials come in numerous colors, including neutrals, like champagne and silver, and brighter hues, like blue<\/a>, yellow and green. There are also special colors, like ice blue, which is used only on platinum Rolexes. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Special dial features include laser etching, gemstone embellishments and Jubilee dials, which are patterned with the word ROLEX<\/em>. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Hands and Indexes<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

The hands move around the dial and point to the indexes, or hour markers. Rolex calls the indexes and the crown logo \u201cappliques,\u201d since they\u2019re cutouts that are applied to the dial. Hands and indexes on contemporary models are made from 18-karat gold to prevent tarnishing. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Hand styles include: <\/p>\n\n\n\n