{"id":406496,"date":"2023-03-23T12:00:00","date_gmt":"2023-03-23T16:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/?p=406496"},"modified":"2023-03-23T14:55:40","modified_gmt":"2023-03-23T18:55:40","slug":"vivienne-westwood-tartan","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/vivienne-westwood-tartan\/","title":{"rendered":"Vivienne Westwood’s Punk Spirit Lives On in This ’90s Tartan Ensemble"},"content":{"rendered":"
\n
\"Vivienne<\/a>
Vivienne Westwood<\/a>\u2019s Fall\/Winter 1996\u201397 Storm in a Teacup collection featured a version, seen at left in the Paris runway show, of the tartan ensemble<\/a> offered by One of a Kind Archive<\/a>.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

In cut, textile and tailoring, this jacket-and-shorts suit<\/a> is iconic Vivienne Westwood<\/a>. The designer was moved by parallel passions: a love of British design history and an unflinching urge to put a stick in the eye of authority<\/a>. And tartan fulfilled both desires. Plucking the pattern from the wardrobes of the British royal family at Balmoral Castle, Westwood reimagined it for the ripped and pinned anarchist punk look of 1970s and ’80s London. Who\u2019s in power now, Mrs. Thatcher?<\/em> <\/p>\n\n\n\n

The ensemble, from Westwood’s Fall\/Winter 1996\u201397 Storm in a Teacup collection and offered by London\u2019s One of a Kind Archive<\/a>, uses the extreme asymmetry of a tartan mash-up to confront, according to Westwood, \u201cthe horror of uniformity and minimalism.\u201d By then, the Scottish textile was a mainstay of her collections. And it continued to be identified with her in death: After she passed away, last December at age 81<\/a>, her intimate funeral for family was held in a country church adorned with $50,000 worth of Harris Tweed tartan (the memorial service was packed with celebrities wearing her designs).<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"Vivienne<\/a>
Westwood, seen here in a 1992 portrait by Andrew Cotterill<\/a>, died in December at age 81.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

\u201cFrom anarchy, disenfranchisement and unemployment to absolute fantasy, Westwood\u2019s work presents a narrative of British culture and style,\u201d says Patrick Michael Hughes, a fashion culture and decorative arts historian and associate teaching professor at Parsons School of Design. \u201cThe Storm in a Teacup collection came out during a period of romance in British fashion. But Westwood was giving us a new chapter \u2014 not country sweet, like Laura Ashley<\/a>. Westwood was showing the romance of the city.\u201d <\/p>\n\n\n\n

The designer likely would have agreed. Of her best design, she once said, \u201cThere\u2019s something heroic to it. It\u2019s got to cut a figure, it\u2019s got to step out, it\u2019s got to say, \u2018Hi.\u2019 \u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\t

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\n\t\t\t\t\"Vivienne\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t
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\n\t\t\t\t\t\tShop Vivienne Westwood on 1stDibs\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\tView All<\/span>\n\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

In cut, textile and tailoring, this jacket-and-shorts suit is iconic Vivienne Westwood. The designer was moved by parallel passions: a love of British design history and an unflinching urge to put a stick in the eye of authority. And tartan fulfilled both desires. Plucking the pattern from the wardrobes of the British royal family at […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":293,"featured_media":406845,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"apple_news_api_created_at":"2023-03-23T16:05:47Z","apple_news_api_id":"b5c11dbd-8430-4c96-98ec-4cc6e0db255b","apple_news_api_modified_at":"2023-03-23T18:38:32Z","apple_news_api_revision":"AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA==","apple_news_api_share_url":"https:\/\/apple.news\/AtcEdvYQwTJaY7EzG4NslWw","apple_news_cover_media_provider":"image","apple_news_coverimage":0,"apple_news_coverimage_caption":"","apple_news_cover_video_id":0,"apple_news_cover_video_url":"","apple_news_cover_embedwebvideo_url":"","apple_news_is_hidden":"","apple_news_is_paid":"","apple_news_is_preview":"","apple_news_is_sponsored":"","apple_news_maturity_rating":"","apple_news_metadata":"\"\"","apple_news_pullquote":"","apple_news_pullquote_position":"","apple_news_slug":"","apple_news_sections":[],"apple_news_suppress_video_url":false,"apple_news_use_image_component":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[15568218],"tags":[15570241,15570243,15523433,8343493,15570221,15523843,15570242,15523823,15570220],"dibs-categories":[15565982],"dibs-designs":[],"dibs-styles":[],"dibs-creators":[15570222],"dibs-sellers":[15570223],"class_list":["post-406496","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-obsession-of-the-week","tag-1990s-fashion","tag-british-fashion","tag-fashion-2","tag-lisa-santandrea","tag-one-of-a-kind-archive","tag-plaid","tag-punk-fashion","tag-tartan","tag-vivienne-westwood","dibs-categories-dibs-v","dibs-creators-dibs-vivienne-westwood","dibs-sellers-dibs-one-of-a-kind-archive"],"acf":{"post_format":"article","subtitle":"The shorts suit in a mash-up of patterns with an asymmetrical cut speaks to the designer\u2019s rebellious spirit.","contributors":{"hide_byline":false,"columnist":[{"ID":361853,"post_author":"1","post_date":"2021-12-14 22:36:15","post_date_gmt":"2021-12-15 03:36:15","post_content":"","post_title":"Lisa Santandrea","post_excerpt":"","post_status":"publish","comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","post_password":"","post_name":"lisa-santandrea","to_ping":"","pinged":"","post_modified":"2021-12-14 22:36:15","post_modified_gmt":"2021-12-15 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