{"id":411580,"date":"2023-09-22T14:00:00","date_gmt":"2023-09-22T18:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/?p=411580"},"modified":"2023-10-12T06:28:38","modified_gmt":"2023-10-12T10:28:38","slug":"andrew-grima-textured-wire-bracelet","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/andrew-grima-textured-wire-bracelet\/","title":{"rendered":"This Chic Abstract Bracelet Is by the Father of Modernist Jewelry"},"content":{"rendered":"<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/jewelry\/bracelets\/modern-bracelets\/andrew-grima-1960s-modernist-impressive-yellow-gold-diamond-bracelet\/id-j_20293752\/\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"950\" height=\"633\" src=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/story_bracelet-950x633.jpg\" alt=\"Andrew Grima modernist yellow-gold-and-diamond bracelet, 1960s\" class=\"wp-image-412357\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/story_bracelet-950x633.jpg 950w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/story_bracelet-525x350.jpg 525w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/story_bracelet-120x80.jpg 120w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/story_bracelet-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/story_bracelet-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/story_bracelet-1400x933.jpg 1400w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/story_bracelet.jpg 1800w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 950px) 100vw, 950px\" \/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/jewelry\/bracelets\/modern-bracelets\/andrew-grima-1960s-modernist-impressive-yellow-gold-diamond-bracelet\/id-j_20293752\/\">Andrew Grima modernist yellow-gold and diamond bracelet, 1960s<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n<p>Bold, sculptural and futuristic, this 1960s <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/jewelry\/bracelets\/modern-bracelets\/andrew-grima-1960s-modernist-impressive-yellow-gold-diamond-bracelet\/id-j_20293752\/\">18-karat-gold diamond-flecked bracelet<\/a> by Anglo-Italian designer <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/creators\/andrew-grima\/jewelry\/\">Andrew Grima<\/a> is a <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/jewelry\/style\/modern\/\">modernist<\/a> masterwork. The piece is an excellent example of the jeweler\u2019s signature style, with a dynamic and flexible form that hugs the wrist like woven fabric, showcasing a dramatic pattern that evokes an electric current, darting arrows or splintered sunbeams. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Often called the father of modernist jewelry, Grima blazed a glittering trail with imaginative designs that were a marked departure from the previous era\u2019s more ornamental, representational styles. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Born in Rome in 1921 to a Maltese father and an Italian mother, he was brought up in England, where he studied mechanical engineering at university, a discipline that no doubt laid the foundation for a career built on inventive fabrication. He found his way into the creative field of jewelry design while working for his father-in-law\u2019s jewelry firm, H. J. Company. <\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large is-resized\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/creators\/andrew-grima\/jewelry\/\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/Andrew_Grima-950x648.jpg\" alt=\"A black-and-white photo of jewelry designer Andrew Grima smoking a pipe in his home studio in 1969\" class=\"wp-image-412369\" style=\"width:840px\" width=\"840\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/Andrew_Grima-950x648.jpg 950w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/Andrew_Grima-513x350.jpg 513w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/Andrew_Grima-120x82.jpg 120w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/Andrew_Grima-768x524.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/Andrew_Grima.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 950px) 100vw, 950px\" \/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Jewelry designer <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/creators\/andrew-grima\/jewelry\/\">Andrew Grima<\/a> in his home studio in the village of Sonning, west of London, in 1969. Photo courtesy of Grima Jewellery Limited, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n<p>Grima was captivated by rough-cut semi-precious stones and favored organic, abstract shapes inspired by an avant-garde sensibility. When he inherited the business, in 1952, he became its principal designer, putting into practice his belief that jewelry should be radical, exciting and visually arresting. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>In 1961, a selection of his pieces were included in an exhibition at London\u2019s Goldsmiths&#8217; Hall alongside jewelry by noted visual artists <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/creators\/henry-moore\/\">Henry Moore<\/a>, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/creators\/barbara-hepworth-1903-1975-british\/\">Barbara Hepworth<\/a> and <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/creators\/elisabeth-frink-1930-1993-british\/\">Elisabeth Frink<\/a>. His experimental designs captured the zeitgeist. Over the next few years, accolades flowed in, including several De Beers Diamonds-International Awards, the Queen\u2019s Award for Export and the Duke of Edinburgh&#8217;s Prize for Elegant Design. In 1966, Grima opened his own atelier. His work was coveted by royals, members of high society and glamorous film stars of the day, including <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/buy\/princess-margaret\/\">Princess Margaret<\/a>, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/buy\/jackie-kennedy\/\">Jaqueline Onassis<\/a>, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/buy\/sharon-tate\/\">Sharon Tate<\/a> and <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/buy\/ursula-andress\/\">Ursula Andress<\/a>. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>This gold and diamond bracelet, offered on 1stDibs by Chicago-based dealer <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/dealers\/n-green-and-sons\/\">N. Green and Sons<\/a>, is one of Grima\u2019s celebrated textured-wire designs. Hand-crafted and hammered for a prismatic ridged effect, the gold filaments have the texture of rough-hewn timber and a taut diagonal arrangement finessed with bright baguette diamonds, reflecting a rebellious and audacious aesthetic to match the radical spirit of the modernist era. <\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/jewelry\/bracelets\/modern-bracelets\/andrew-grima-1960s-modernist-impressive-yellow-gold-diamond-bracelet\/id-j_20293752\/\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"950\" height=\"490\" src=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/N.-Green-and-Sons-Andrew-Grima-1960s-Modernist-Impressive-Yellow-Gold-and-Diamond-Bracelet-Boxed-950x490.jpg\" alt=\"A 1960s Andrew Grima yellow-gold bracelet in its original presentation box\" class=\"wp-image-412372\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/N.-Green-and-Sons-Andrew-Grima-1960s-Modernist-Impressive-Yellow-Gold-and-Diamond-Bracelet-Boxed-950x490.jpg 950w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/N.-Green-and-Sons-Andrew-Grima-1960s-Modernist-Impressive-Yellow-Gold-and-Diamond-Bracelet-Boxed-679x350.jpg 679w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/N.-Green-and-Sons-Andrew-Grima-1960s-Modernist-Impressive-Yellow-Gold-and-Diamond-Bracelet-Boxed-120x62.jpg 120w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/N.-Green-and-Sons-Andrew-Grima-1960s-Modernist-Impressive-Yellow-Gold-and-Diamond-Bracelet-Boxed-768x396.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/N.-Green-and-Sons-Andrew-Grima-1960s-Modernist-Impressive-Yellow-Gold-and-Diamond-Bracelet-Boxed.jpg 1396w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 950px) 100vw, 950px\" \/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">The bracelet comes in its original signed presentation box.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n<p>\u201cThe bracelet is a true masterpiece, made all the more special by its original Grima-signed presentation box,\u201d says jewelry expert and N. Green proprietor Jeff Cohen. \u201cThese boxes were often discarded, as it was common to just fling things in a safe in those days. The piece was purchased in London in the 1960s and remained with its original owner for decades until I acquired it.\u201d <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>A Grima jewel of this caliber and condition is a rare find, Cohen adds. \u201cBack in the 1980s, when the value of gold was at an all-time high, incredible pieces such as this were considered clunky and too <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/furniture\/style\/brutalist\/\">brutalist<\/a> looking, so they were simply melted down for cash, making this bracelet super collectible.\u201d <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Today, Grima pieces like this kinetic design are emblems of a magical time when luxury attained a cutting-edge dimension. \u201cI call it the Fortress of Solitude bracelet, after Superman&#8217;s home base,\u201d says Cohen, laughing. \u201cThis is a really geeky reference, but if you know the 1978 film, you\u2019ll remember it as a mystical place covered in spear-like icicles jutting from the ground. I\u2019m not sure if Grima had icicles in mind, but this piece has all that epic drama and then some.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\t<div class=\"interstitial-banner interstitial-banner-collection interstitial-container\">\n\t\t<div class=\"interstitial-content\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"interstitial-background-image\">\n\t\t\t\t<img decoding=\"async\" width=\"1000\" height=\"300\" src=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/Mahnaz-Collection-Handmade-Textured-and-Polished-Gold-Necklace-1970s-1000x300.jpg\" class=\"attachment-interstitial size-interstitial\" alt=\"\" \/>\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t<div class=\"container interstitial-text\">\n\t\t\t\t<a class=\"interstitial-link-around-text\" href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/buy\/modernist-jewellery\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"interstitial-heading\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\tExplore Modernist Jewelry on 1stDibs\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"interstitial-subheading\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t\t<a class=\"gold-button\" href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/buy\/modernist-jewellery\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<span>Shop All<\/span>\n\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Bold, sculptural and futuristic, this 1960s 18-karat-gold diamond-flecked bracelet by Anglo-Italian designer Andrew Grima is a modernist masterwork. The piece is an excellent example of the jeweler\u2019s signature style, with a dynamic and flexible form that hugs the wrist like woven fabric, showcasing a dramatic pattern that evokes an electric current, darting arrows or splintered [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":394,"featured_media":412357,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"apple_news_api_created_at":"2023-09-22T18:01:07Z","apple_news_api_id":"5157c740-8883-462c-be18-25c4e2a2bfc2","apple_news_api_modified_at":"2023-09-22T21:38:05Z","apple_news_api_revision":"AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADQ==","apple_news_api_share_url":"https:\/\/apple.news\/AUVfHQIiDRiy-GCXE4qK_wg","apple_news_cover_media_provider":"image","apple_news_coverimage":0,"apple_news_coverimage_caption":"","apple_news_cover_video_id":0,"apple_news_cover_video_url":"","apple_news_cover_embedwebvideo_url":"","apple_news_is_hidden":"","apple_news_is_paid":"","apple_news_is_preview":"","apple_news_is_sponsored":"","apple_news_maturity_rating":"","apple_news_metadata":"\"\"","apple_news_pullquote":"","apple_news_pullquote_position":"","apple_news_slug":"","apple_news_sections":[],"apple_news_suppress_video_url":false,"apple_news_use_image_component":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[15523143,15568218],"tags":[15570613,15570611,15567312,15570609,15550263,15568791,15569910,102,325293,15570610,15570612,15570614,15526453],"dibs-categories":[15565940,15565903],"dibs-designs":[],"dibs-styles":[],"dibs-creators":[15570615],"dibs-sellers":[15570210],"class_list":["post-411580","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-jewelry-2","category-obsession-of-the-week","tag-1960s-jewelry","tag-20th-century-jewelry","tag-alexandra-zagalsky","tag-andrew-grima","tag-estate-jewelry","tag-gold-jewelry","tag-jeff-cohen","tag-jewelry","tag-london","tag-modernist-jewelry","tag-n-green-and-sons","tag-the-father-of-modernist-jewelry","tag-vintage-jewelry","dibs-categories-dibs-j_bra","dibs-categories-dibs-j","dibs-creators-dibs-andrew-grima","dibs-sellers-dibs-n-green-and-sons"],"acf":{"post_format":"article","subtitle":"Mid-20th-century designer Andrew Grima upended tradition with his avant-garde aesthetic.","contributors":{"hide_byline":false,"columnist":[{"ID":361856,"post_author":"456","post_date":"2021-12-14 22:36:15","post_date_gmt":"2021-12-15 03:36:15","post_content":"<!-- wp:paragraph {\"placeholder\":\"Add Bio...\"} -->\n<p>Alexandra Zagalsky is a London-based journalist specializing in luxury topics, art and travel content. She began her journalistic career in Paris, where she worked on a cultural guide for English-speaking expats. Her first big break was an interview with Lionel Poil\u00e2ne, the late, venerable baker from Paris\u2019s Saint-Germain-des-Pr\u00e9s district who popularized the two-kilogram sourdough loaf and once made a bread chandelier for <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/creators\/salvador-dali\/\">Salvador Dal\u00ed<\/a>.<br><br>Zagalsky moved back to London in her early 20s and has since worked with a number of august publications, including the<em> Week<\/em>, the<em> Telegraph<\/em>, the<em> Times<\/em> and a variety of art and design outlets, such as <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/introspective-magazine\/\"><em>Introspective<\/em><\/a> and <em>V&amp;A<\/em>, <em>Sotheby\u2019s<\/em> and <em>Christie\u2019s<\/em> magazines. She studied fine art and the history of art at Goldsmiths, University of London, and continues to explore the contemporary art scene, including the world of NFTs.<br><br>She has written extensively on the subject of <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/jewelry\/watches\/\">vintage watches<\/a> and describes the <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/creators\/cartier\/jewelry\/watches\/\">Cartier<\/a> Crash as her favorite timepiece. \u201cIt\u2019s a great emblem of the Swinging Sixties and an adaptation of the house\u2019s classic <a href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/buy\/baignoire-watch\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Baignoire<\/a> Allong\u00e9e wristwatch, its sinuous Daliesque style apparently inspired by a model brought into the London Cartier workshop that had been distorted in a car crash,\u201d she says. \u201cI love it for all sorts of reasons, not least because it\u2019s so unconventional and daring, as all great design objects often are.\u201d<br><br>Find out more about Zagalsky\u2019s work on <a href=\"https:\/\/www.linkedin.com\/in\/alexandra-zagalsky-33035366\/\">Linkedin<\/a>.<\/p>\n<!-- \/wp:paragraph -->","post_title":"Alexandra Zagalsky","post_excerpt":"","post_status":"publish","comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","post_password":"","post_name":"alexandra-zagalsky","to_ping":"","pinged":"","post_modified":"2025-11-27 03:14:00","post_modified_gmt":"2025-11-27 08:14:00","post_content_filtered":"","post_parent":0,"guid":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/contributors\/alexandra-zagalsky\/","menu_order":0,"post_type":"contributors","post_mime_type":"","comment_count":"0","filter":"raw"}],"photographer":"","custom_byline":false},"show_date":true,"interstitial_banners":[{"acf_fc_layout":"collection","interstitial_banner_shortcode":"modernist-jewelry","interstitial_banner_background_image":412376,"interstitial_banner_heading":"Explore Modernist Jewelry on 1stDibs","interstitial_banner_subheading":"","interstitial_banner_button_text":"Shop All","interstitial_banner_button_url":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/buy\/modernist-jewellery\/"}],"slideshows":false,"show_related_items_footer_popup":false},"dibs_designs_tags":null,"dibs_sellers_tags":["dibs-n-green-and-sons"],"dibs_creators_tags":["dibs-andrew-grima"],"dibs_styles_tags":null,"dibs_categories_tags":["dibs-j_bra","dibs-j"],"featured_image_url":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/story_bracelet-640x450.jpg","post_title":"This Chic Abstract Bracelet Is by the Father of Modernist Jewelry","fimg_url":{"thumbnail":{"source_url":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/story_bracelet-120x80.jpg","width":120,"height":80},"medium":{"source_url":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/story_bracelet-525x350.jpg","width":525,"height":350},"full":{"source_url":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/story_bracelet.jpg","width":1800,"height":1200}},"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/story_bracelet.jpg","apple_news_notices":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.6 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>This Chic Abstract Bracelet Is by the Father of Modernist Jewelry | The Study<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Mid-20th-century designer Andrew Grima upended tradition with his avant-garde aesthetic.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/andrew-grima-textured-wire-bracelet\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"This Chic Abstract Bracelet Is by the Father of Modernist Jewelry\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Mid-20th-century designer Andrew Grima upended tradition with his avant-garde aesthetic.\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/andrew-grima-textured-wire-bracelet\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"The Study\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:publisher\" content=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/1stdibs\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2023-09-22T18:00:00+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2023-10-12T10:28:38+00:00\" \/>\n<meta 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