{"id":412595,"date":"2023-11-03T13:12:17","date_gmt":"2023-11-03T17:12:17","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/?p=412595"},"modified":"2024-10-22T16:59:40","modified_gmt":"2024-10-22T20:59:40","slug":"jewelry-parure","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/jewelry-parure\/","title":{"rendered":"When It Comes to Jewelry, What Is a Parure?"},"content":{"rendered":"
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\"Georgian<\/a>
Georgian citrine and gold parure, ca. 1820<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

Parure<\/em>: The word transports you to an opulent and dreamy world of trembling candlelight and rustling silk gowns \u2014 if, that is, you know what it means. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Borrowed from the French, parure<\/a><\/em> denotes a matching set of jewels<\/a>. A full parure may include a necklace<\/a>, earrings<\/a>, a brooch<\/a>, a bracelet<\/a> (or two) and perhaps a ring<\/a> as well. The very grandest are topped off by a tiara<\/a>. For those who prefer a lighter look, there is the demi-parure<\/a>. Demi<\/em> means half, but in practice, a matching brooch \u2014 or necklace \u2014 and earrings meet the definition. And although the heyday for both versions was the 19th century<\/a>, fabulous parures have been created ever since.<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"Cartier<\/a>
Cartier Panth\u00e9re necklace, bracelet, earrings and ring set, 1990s<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

Jewels today can be bought and sold wherever there is access to the internet. Still, there is something alluring about dealing with jewelers possessing both a physical location and a venerable history, like the two whose parures are discussed below: London’s Bentley & Skinner<\/a>, situated in Piccadilly<\/a>, and Joseph Saidian and Sons<\/a>, on Manhattan\u2019s Upper East Side. Both firms began trading in the 1880s, the former a few blocks from its present site, the latter in what is now Iran. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Both are also connected with royalty, either directly or indirectly. Queen Victoria<\/a>, Queen Elizabeth II<\/a> and King Charles have been Bentley & Skinner clients. Joseph Saidian and Sons is the custodian of the 74.53-carat fancy yellow diamond centerpiece of the shah of Iran’s crown<\/a>, the Ahmad Shah, whose acquisition in 2001 the family describes as \u201cthe ultimate act of poetic justice,\u201d since it was the shah’s fall that forced the Saidians to flee their native country. In addition, the firms share a commitment to purveying the finest jewels. Their divergent histories, however, are reflected in Bentley & Skinner\u2019s depth in antique pieces and Joseph Saidian & Sons’ focus on mid-20th-century<\/a> ones. <\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"Late<\/a>
Late Georgian aquamarine and gold parure, ca. 1820<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

This aquamarine and gold suite<\/a>, from the early 19th century<\/a>, consists of a tiara, earrings, necklace, pendant, brooch (convertible to a clasp for a bracelet) and, tucked under the brooch in its fitted case, a petite hair ornament. For all the gold and gems it’s composed of, it is surprisingly light. \u201cAfter the Napoleonic Wars, there was not a great deal of precious metal,\u201c Bentley & Skinner\u2019s Ilias Kapsalis explains. Et voil\u00e0<\/em>: Thin gold came into vogue.<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"Micro<\/a>
Micro-mosaic pendant and earring suite, ca. 1840<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

The pendant and earrings<\/a> of this Bentley & Skinner micro-mosaic<\/a> demi-parure were crafted using hundreds, perhaps thousands, of tiny colored-glass tesserae, echoing the breathtaking, if considerably larger, tesserae walls of St. Mark\u2019s Basilica in Venice. Even the iridescent green flies are delightful. Surely, the pendant could be worn on a chain over a cashmere sweater<\/a> to a work meeting and, with earrings popped on afterward, to cocktails and dinner.<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"Van<\/a>
Van Cleef & Arpels turquoise and diamond parure, 1960s<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

Ariel Saidian, who earned a GIA diploma before he had a driver\u2019s license, joined his father in the family business in 2006. The parures he highlights reflect his passion for Van Cleef & Arpels<\/a>, whose work he calls \u201cthe world\u2019s premier jewelry.\u201d The first, pictured above, features turquoise and diamonds. The set consists of a flower brooch, a necklace, a bracelet (convertible to two bracelets if desired) and earrings. \u201cIt is rare” Saidan explains. “it is hard enough to find one special jewel \u2014 families that inherit parures tend to break them up.” So this set, he adds, “is a real treat.\u201d It’s wearable, too. Sporting all pieces at once would not look over the top.<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"Van<\/a>
Van Cleef & Arpels sapphire necklace, bracelet and earrings set, 1965<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

Van Cleef & Arpels is also the maker of this knockout 1960s deep-blue-sapphire and diamond demi-parure<\/a> comprising a necklace, bracelet and earrings. It comes with a nice provenance, too, formerly belonging to the Chalk family, which donated the 37.8-carat Chalk Emerald to the Smithsonian<\/a>. This parure is definitely not for a work Zoom. But if you owned it, you might wear it around the house for the sheer pleasure of it.<\/p>\n\n\n\t

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\n\t\t\t\t\t\tDiscover Parures on 1stDibs\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\tShop All<\/span>\n\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Parure: The word transports you to an opulent and dreamy world of trembling candlelight and rustling silk gowns \u2014 if, that is, you know what it means. Borrowed from the French, parure denotes a matching set of jewels. A full parure may include a necklace, earrings, a brooch, a bracelet (or two) and perhaps a […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":293,"featured_media":413904,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"apple_news_api_created_at":"2023-11-03T17:12:28Z","apple_news_api_id":"dcc27a4a-a05c-44f4-8f93-27c77ffbd031","apple_news_api_modified_at":"2024-10-22T21:03:09Z","apple_news_api_revision":"AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAABg==","apple_news_api_share_url":"https:\/\/apple.news\/A3MJ6SqBcRPSPkyfHf_vQMQ","apple_news_cover_media_provider":"image","apple_news_coverimage":0,"apple_news_coverimage_caption":"","apple_news_cover_video_id":0,"apple_news_cover_video_url":"","apple_news_cover_embedwebvideo_url":"","apple_news_is_hidden":"","apple_news_is_paid":"","apple_news_is_preview":"","apple_news_is_sponsored":"","apple_news_maturity_rating":"","apple_news_metadata":"\"\"","apple_news_pullquote":"","apple_news_pullquote_position":"","apple_news_slug":"","apple_news_sections":[],"apple_news_suppress_video_url":false,"apple_news_use_image_component":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"dibs-categories":[],"dibs-designs":[],"dibs-styles":[],"dibs-creators":[],"dibs-sellers":[],"class_list":["post-412595","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-uncategorized"],"acf":{"post_format":"article","subtitle":"You might not be familiar with the term, but these sparkly suites are sought after by collectors.","contributors":{"hide_byline":false,"columnist":[{"ID":413940,"post_author":"293","post_date":"2023-11-02 13:50:24","post_date_gmt":"2023-11-02 17:50:24","post_content":"\n

<\/p>\n","post_title":"Paula Weideger","post_excerpt":"","post_status":"publish","comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","post_password":"","post_name":"paula-weideger","to_ping":"","pinged":"","post_modified":"2023-11-02 13:50:24","post_modified_gmt":"2023-11-02 17:50:24","post_content_filtered":"","post_parent":0,"guid":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/?post_type=contributors&p=413940","menu_order":0,"post_type":"contributors","post_mime_type":"","comment_count":"0","filter":"raw"}],"photographer":"","custom_byline":false},"show_date":true,"interstitial_banners":[{"acf_fc_layout":"collection","interstitial_banner_shortcode":"parures","interstitial_banner_background_image":413980,"interstitial_banner_heading":"Discover Parures on 1stDibs","interstitial_banner_subheading":"","interstitial_banner_button_text":"Shop 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