{"id":425006,"date":"2025-02-06T14:22:19","date_gmt":"2025-02-06T19:22:19","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/?p=425006"},"modified":"2025-02-06T15:57:52","modified_gmt":"2025-02-06T20:57:52","slug":"marc-jacobs-2025","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/marc-jacobs-2025\/","title":{"rendered":"The Viral Marc Jacobs Show Brings These \u201990s Designs to Mind"},"content":{"rendered":"
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A model walks the runway during the Marc Jacobs 2025 Runway Show at New York Public Library. Photo by Dimitrios Kambouris\/Getty Images for Marc Jacobs<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

The Internet is aglow with posts obsessing over Marc Jacobs\u2019s<\/a> Spring\/Summer 2025 ready-to-wear collection, which he presented earlier this week at the New York Public Library. Writing in the show notes about the collection, dubbed “Courage,” Jacobs explains, “With precious freedom, we dream and imagine without limitation.” The models \u2014 made up like dolls, with black beauty marks and red circles on their cheeks and lips \u2014 clomped down the runway in whimsical platform shoes fit for elfin feet. The garments, with their balloon-like forms and outsize proportions, quickly drew comparisons to the work of visionary Comme des Gar\u00e7ons<\/a> designer Rei Kawakubo<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Harper\u2019s<\/em> Bazaar<\/em><\/a> and Business of Fashion<\/em><\/a> are just two of the publications that noted the resemblance, with BOF<\/em> pointing in particular to similarities with the Comme des Gar\u00e7ons Spring\/Summer 1997 collection<\/a>. Pieces in the 1997 show, often called \u201clumps and bumps,\u201d were not just not formfitting; they were form redefining<\/em>. Cases in point: this asymmetrical black dress<\/a> and creations using organza<\/a> to enhance their textural quality.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The new Jacobs collection seems to reference \u201990s work by other designers, too. The subversion of silhouettes, for instance, feels linked to Issey Miyake\u2019s designs<\/a>, like this puff sleeve top and petal skirt<\/a>. The light-hearted cartoonish quality, meanwhile, calls to mind Moschino<\/a>. Even so, the attitude celebrated in \u201cCourage\u201d is distinctly Marc Jacobs.<\/p>\n\n\n\t

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\n\t\t\t\t\t\tComme des Gar\u00e7ons Lumps and Bumps Asymmetric Dress \t\t\t\t\t<\/p>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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\n\t\t\t\t\t\tMoschino Couture Blow Up Doll Appliqu\u00e9 Vest Top\t\t\t\t\t<\/p>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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\n\t\t\t\t\t\tComme des Gar\u00e7ons ‘Body Meets Dress, Dress Meets Body’ Dress\t\t\t\t\t<\/p>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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\n\t\t\t\t\t\tMarc Jacobs Black Silk Cocktail Dress\t\t\t\t\t<\/p>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n\t","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

The Internet is aglow with posts obsessing over Marc Jacobs\u2019s Spring\/Summer 2025 ready-to-wear collection, which he presented earlier this week at the New York Public Library. Writing in the show notes about the collection, dubbed “Courage,” Jacobs explains, “With precious freedom, we dream and imagine without limitation.” The models \u2014 made up like dolls, with […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":459,"featured_media":425060,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"apple_news_api_created_at":"2025-02-06T19:23:15Z","apple_news_api_id":"dd3773b9-4966-4aac-9f19-003b0ee96128","apple_news_api_modified_at":"2025-02-06T21:00:53Z","apple_news_api_revision":"AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAQ==","apple_news_api_share_url":"https:\/\/apple.news\/A3TdzuUlmSqyfGQA7DulhKA","apple_news_cover_media_provider":"image","apple_news_coverimage":0,"apple_news_coverimage_caption":"","apple_news_cover_video_id":0,"apple_news_cover_video_url":"","apple_news_cover_embedwebvideo_url":"","apple_news_is_hidden":"","apple_news_is_paid":"","apple_news_is_preview":"","apple_news_is_sponsored":"","apple_news_maturity_rating":"","apple_news_metadata":"\"\"","apple_news_pullquote":"","apple_news_pullquote_position":"","apple_news_slug":"","apple_news_sections":[],"apple_news_suppress_video_url":false,"apple_news_use_image_component":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[15522063],"tags":[15567295,15523433,15568136,301023,842,9873193],"dibs-categories":[15565982],"dibs-designs":[],"dibs-styles":[],"dibs-creators":[15571472],"dibs-sellers":[],"class_list":["post-425006","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-fashion","tag-comme-des-garcons-2","tag-fashion-2","tag-issey-miyake","tag-marc-jacobs","tag-moschino","tag-rei-kawakubo","dibs-categories-dibs-v","dibs-creators-dibs-marc-jacobs"],"acf":{"post_format":"article","subtitle":"The cartoonish forms debuted by the designer feel fresh and referential at once.","contributors":{"hide_byline":false,"columnist":[{"ID":422894,"post_author":"456","post_date":"2024-12-12 15:30:19","post_date_gmt":"2024-12-12 20:30:19","post_content":"\n

Rachel Davies is a Brooklyn-based writer and the creator of Personal Space<\/a>, a newsletter that covers culture, design and home life. Their work has been published by Architectural Digest, Dwell, Wall Street Journal and Domino, among other publications. In a perfect world, their house would be furnished exclusively with pieces from HAY<\/em><\/a>.<\/p>\n","post_title":"Rachel Davies","post_excerpt":"","post_status":"publish","comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","post_password":"","post_name":"rachel-davies","to_ping":"","pinged":"","post_modified":"2025-10-14 09:41:58","post_modified_gmt":"2025-10-14 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