{"id":430567,"date":"2025-09-12T12:00:00","date_gmt":"2025-09-12T16:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/?p=430567"},"modified":"2025-09-12T18:20:59","modified_gmt":"2025-09-12T22:20:59","slug":"opal-pansy-brooch","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/opal-pansy-brooch\/","title":{"rendered":"This 1960s Opal Pansy Brooch Is a Perfect Token of Love"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
\"Opal<\/a>
Carved-opal and diamond pansy brooch, ca. 1960<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Delicate pansies have charming, face-like flowers, giving them a playful yet pensive mien. That demeanor is reflected in their name, which comes from the French word pens\u00e9e<\/em>, meaning \u201cthought.\u201d For generations, they have served as a simple and sweet way to show someone you are thinking of them \u2014 or to ask them to hold you in their thoughts.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Shakespeare was a fan of the dainty blooms: In A Midsummer Night\u2019s Dream<\/em>, they are used in Puck\u2019s love potion, and in Hamlet<\/em>, Ophelia, in her famous flower-scattering scene, says, \u201cAnd there is pansies, that\u2019s for thoughts.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

This circa 1960 pansy brooch<\/a> conveys all of that symbolism, with added passion and vitality. Like a miniature sculpture, its carved opal<\/a> petals catch the light, flashing iridescent rainbow hues across a pearlescent surface that seems to pulse with fiery energy. Encircled with round diamonds and rising from a platinum stalk set with still more diamonds, the life-size bloom commands attention.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"pansy<\/a>
The brooch<\/a> features 18 round diamonds.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

\u201cThe gift of a pansy means you are being thought of, remembered or admired,\u201d says Dana Kiyomura, founder of New York\u2013based jeweler Keyamour<\/a>, which specializes in vintage pieces from the Georgian era<\/a> to modern times. \u201cI purchased [the brooch] from an estate in the United States, and I date it to around the 1960s or 1970s based on the cut of the diamonds. I believe it was made in the U.S., as it doesn\u2019t have any hallmarks.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The real mystery of this effulgent bloom, however, lies in the craftsmanship. Making the piece would have required superlative lapidary skills, as opals are notoriously brittle and difficult to carve. Difficult and risky: Legend has it that Louis XI of France was so upset when his goldsmith cracked a royal opal that he ordered the artisan\u2019s hands to be chopped off.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Kiyomura prefers to point to more upbeat historical analogues, comparing the sculptural opal brooch to rare Victorian cameos<\/a> like those crafted by the famous 19th-century German engraver Wilhelm Schmidt. \u201cSome of the most beautiful cameo carvings were crafted in opals up to 150 years ago. The unique luminescence of the gem adds depth and dimension to the sculpted design in a way that\u2019s very different from, say, an agate cameo carving,\u201d she says.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

This same dexterous technique \u2014 layering forms to create a light-catching relief \u2014 is evident in the petals of this heritage piece, where each delicate curve and contour plays with light and movement, enhancing the stone\u2019s striking radiance.<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"pansy<\/a>
The iridescence of opals is especially striking against dark colors.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

Slightly smaller than a business card, the gemstone flower is no shrinking violet (although pansies do belong to the Viola<\/em> genus). Rather, it makes a powerful statement that, according to Kiyomura, deserves to be displayed to full effect. \u201cI\u2019d wear it high on the shoulder or close to the neck,\u201d she says. \u201cAnd dark colors would really set off the pansy\u2019s subtle play of colors.\u201d Indeed, those flashes of fire deserve a dramatic backdrop worthy of their brilliance.<\/p>\n\n\n\t

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Delicate pansies have charming, face-like flowers, giving them a playful yet pensive mien. That demeanor is reflected in their name, which comes from the French word pens\u00e9e, meaning \u201cthought.\u201d For generations, they have served as a simple and sweet way to show someone you are thinking of them \u2014 or to ask them to hold […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":293,"featured_media":430976,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"apple_news_api_created_at":"2025-09-12T16:05:48Z","apple_news_api_id":"5a4f53bc-fe23-4f46-a182-b26131320d3b","apple_news_api_modified_at":"2025-09-12T22:23:26Z","apple_news_api_revision":"AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA==","apple_news_api_share_url":"https:\/\/apple.news\/AWk9TvP4jT0ahgrJhMTINOw","apple_news_cover_media_provider":"image","apple_news_coverimage":0,"apple_news_coverimage_caption":"","apple_news_cover_video_id":0,"apple_news_cover_video_url":"","apple_news_cover_embedwebvideo_url":"","apple_news_is_hidden":"","apple_news_is_paid":"","apple_news_is_preview":"","apple_news_is_sponsored":"","apple_news_maturity_rating":"","apple_news_metadata":"\"\"","apple_news_pullquote":"","apple_news_pullquote_position":"","apple_news_slug":"","apple_news_sections":[],"apple_news_suppress_video_url":false,"apple_news_use_image_component":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[15523143,15568218],"tags":[15570613,15567312,15568345,15572192,134,15525373,102,15572187,15533813,15572188],"dibs-categories":[15565955,15565903],"dibs-designs":[],"dibs-styles":[],"dibs-creators":[],"dibs-sellers":[15572189],"class_list":["post-430567","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-jewelry-2","category-obsession-of-the-week","tag-1960s-jewelry","tag-alexandra-zagalsky","tag-brooch","tag-dana-kiyomura","tag-diamond","tag-flower","tag-jewelry","tag-keyamour","tag-opals","tag-pansy","dibs-categories-dibs-j_bro","dibs-categories-dibs-j","dibs-sellers-dibs-keyamour"],"acf":{"post_format":"article","subtitle":"The care that went into crafting this jewel, with its lifelike carved petals and diamond accents, matches the sentiment it represents.","contributors":{"hide_byline":false,"columnist":[{"ID":361856,"post_author":"456","post_date":"2021-12-14 22:36:15","post_date_gmt":"2021-12-15 03:36:15","post_content":"\n

Alexandra Zagalsky is a London-based journalist specializing in luxury topics, art and travel content. She began her journalistic career in Paris, where she worked on a cultural guide for English-speaking expats. Her first big break was an interview with Lionel Poil\u00e2ne, the late, venerable baker from Paris\u2019s Saint-Germain-des-Pr\u00e9s district who popularized the two-kilogram sourdough loaf and once made a bread chandelier for Salvador Dal\u00ed<\/a>.

Zagalsky moved back to London in her early 20s and has since worked with a number of august publications, including the Week<\/em>, the Telegraph<\/em>, the Times<\/em> and a variety of art and design outlets, such as Introspective<\/em><\/a> and V&A<\/em>, Sotheby\u2019s<\/em> and Christie\u2019s<\/em> magazines. She studied fine art and the history of art at Goldsmiths, University of London, and continues to explore the contemporary art scene, including the world of NFTs.

She has written extensively on the subject of vintage watches<\/a> and describes the Cartier<\/a> Crash as her favorite timepiece. \u201cIt\u2019s a great emblem of the Swinging Sixties and an adaptation of the house\u2019s classic Baignoire<\/a> Allong\u00e9e wristwatch, its sinuous Daliesque style apparently inspired by a model brought into the London Cartier workshop that had been distorted in a car crash,\u201d she says. \u201cI love it for all sorts of reasons, not least because it\u2019s so unconventional and daring, as all great design objects often are.\u201d

Find out more about Zagalsky\u2019s work on Linkedin<\/a>.<\/p>\n","post_title":"Alexandra Zagalsky","post_excerpt":"","post_status":"publish","comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","post_password":"","post_name":"alexandra-zagalsky","to_ping":"","pinged":"","post_modified":"2025-11-27 03:14:00","post_modified_gmt":"2025-11-27 08:14:00","post_content_filtered":"","post_parent":0,"guid":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/contributors\/alexandra-zagalsky\/","menu_order":0,"post_type":"contributors","post_mime_type":"","comment_count":"0","filter":"raw"}],"photographer":"","custom_byline":false},"show_date":true,"interstitial_banners":[{"acf_fc_layout":"collection","interstitial_banner_shortcode":"brooches","interstitial_banner_background_image":431078,"interstitial_banner_heading":"Shop for Brooches on 1stDibs","interstitial_banner_subheading":"","interstitial_banner_button_text":"View 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