{"id":430748,"date":"2025-09-26T12:00:00","date_gmt":"2025-09-26T16:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/?p=430748"},"modified":"2025-09-26T20:41:48","modified_gmt":"2025-09-27T00:41:48","slug":"alexander-mcqueen-bumster-skirt","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/alexander-mcqueen-bumster-skirt\/","title":{"rendered":"This \u201990s Alexander McQueen Bumster Skirt Has a Surprising Detail"},"content":{"rendered":"
\n
\"Alexander<\/a>
Alexander McQueen bumster skirt with hair label, Spring\/Summer 1995 <\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

The low-rise waistline is slinking down fashion runways once again. It was a Y2K favorite, but the silhouette owes its staying power to a 1990s icon that went farther than any others dared: the bumster, which made its cheeky debut in Alexander McQueen<\/a>\u2019s Fall\/Winter 1993 collection.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Slouched waistlines had a moment in the ’60s and ’70s, but the bumster took the trend to new extremes. In McQueen’s 1995 collection, the Birds, the bumster waistline appeared in leather trousers, checked-wool suit pants and this exceptional mid-length skirt<\/a>. Beneath its low-slung waist, the piece features a tantalizing detail that epitomizes McQueen\u2019s signature dark romance: a hair label. Tucked into a tiny Perspex square on the outside of the rear of the garment is, yes, a coil of real human hair. The skirt, which is being offered on 1stDibs by Fifth-Main<\/a>, belongs to an elite group of McQueen creations aptly known as \u201chair label\u201d pieces.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Runway onlookers were unsettled by this detail, likely presuming a sinister motive from fashion\u2019s provocative upstart. The suspicion was not completely unwarranted. McQueen\u2019s graduate collection at Central Saint Martins was titled Jack the Ripper Stalks His Victims, and he later boasted that, during his Savile Row apprentice days, he sewed a profane message into the lining of Prince Charles\u2019s suit jacket.<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"This<\/a>
This bumster skirt<\/a> was shown in Alexander McQueen’s Spring\/Summer 1995 runway presentation.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

Early in his career, McQueen took inspiration from the Victorian tradition, equal parts romantic and macabre, of hair-work jewelry<\/a>. The custom of memorializing the dead with a lock of their hair, artfully woven and preserved in rings, lockets and other precious mementos, reached a high point in the 19th century. Courting lovers would also exchange these tokens, although some sources note that the locks used for this purpose were often bought from the era’s prostitutes. McQueen shared the Victorians’ morbid obsession with mortality, and in his earliest collections, the hair employed was said to be his own.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Few examples of McQueen\u2019s hair-label pieces survive (though Fifth-Main is fortunate enough to have several in its collection), and they are not for the amateur collector. This skirt is currently on display in New York in the companion exhibition to the off-Broadway play \u201cHouse of McQueen,\u201d and hair-label garments have been included in major retrospectives of the designer’s work, including the Met\u2019s 2011 \u201cSavage Beauty<\/a>.\u201d Some hair labels, like those in the Fall\/Winter 1996 Dante collection, are concealed within garment linings, but the Birds’ bumster skirt bares all.<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"Detail<\/a>
Just below the low waistline of this Alexander McQueen bumster skirt<\/a> is a lock of hair in a Perspex label.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

McQueen\u2019s training as a tailor is evident in the skirt\u2019s hip-hugging curves and surgically precise front slit, but his identity and upbringing were much grittier than the Savile Row scene. In his explorations as a designer, he sought to queer the modus operandi of the establishment that trained him. While the bumster design was incendiary, it wasn\u2019t about the \u201cbum\u201d at all. McQueen wanted to display the base of the spine, which he regarded as \u201cthe most erotic part of anyone\u2019s body, man or woman.\u201d And so, in a career full of highs, one of McQueen\u2019s shining moments was achieved by going low.<\/p>\n\n\n\t

\n\t\t
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\n\t\t\t\t\"Alexander\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t
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\n\t\t\t\t\t\tShop Alexander McQueen on 1stDibs\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\tView All<\/span>\n\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

The low-rise waistline is slinking down fashion runways once again. It was a Y2K favorite, but the silhouette owes its staying power to a 1990s icon that went farther than any others dared: the bumster, which made its cheeky debut in Alexander McQueen\u2019s Fall\/Winter 1993 collection. Slouched waistlines had a moment in the ’60s and […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":293,"featured_media":431348,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"apple_news_api_created_at":"2025-09-26T16:05:05Z","apple_news_api_id":"be32a8bf-5752-4ccb-ae72-580d2d7b96f2","apple_news_api_modified_at":"2025-09-27T00:44:50Z","apple_news_api_revision":"AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA==","apple_news_api_share_url":"https:\/\/apple.news\/AvjKov1dSTMuuclgNLXuW8g","apple_news_cover_media_provider":"image","apple_news_coverimage":0,"apple_news_coverimage_caption":"","apple_news_cover_video_id":0,"apple_news_cover_video_url":"","apple_news_cover_embedwebvideo_url":"","apple_news_is_hidden":"","apple_news_is_paid":"","apple_news_is_preview":"","apple_news_is_sponsored":"","apple_news_maturity_rating":"","apple_news_metadata":"\"\"","apple_news_pullquote":"","apple_news_pullquote_position":"","apple_news_slug":"","apple_news_sections":[],"apple_news_suppress_video_url":false,"apple_news_use_image_component":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[15522063,15568218],"tags":[9528533,15572208,15523433,15570544],"dibs-categories":[15565982],"dibs-designs":[],"dibs-styles":[],"dibs-creators":[15566930],"dibs-sellers":[15570548],"class_list":["post-430748","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-fashion","category-obsession-of-the-week","tag-alexander-mcqueen","tag-bumster","tag-fashion-2","tag-fifth-main","dibs-categories-dibs-v","dibs-creators-dibs-alexander-mcqueen","dibs-sellers-dibs-fifth-main"],"acf":{"post_format":"article","subtitle":"The designer combined his Savile Row training with his fascination with Victorian jewelry to create a most alluring piece. ","contributors":{"hide_byline":false,"columnist":[{"ID":411349,"post_author":"293","post_date":"2023-08-17 20:19:36","post_date_gmt":"2023-08-18 00:19:36","post_content":"\n

John Villa is the fashion specialist on 1stDibs\u2019 Art and Design Research team, managing the curation and vetting of the marketplace\u2019s fashion category. He holds a master\u2019s degree in art history and visual culture from the University of Nottingham, but he now focuses on archival fashion history and the contemporary luxury market. Villa maintains an active presence on social media, where his fashion commentary and critiques have gained him more than 125,000 followers across TikTok and Youtube. In addition to his contributions to The Study<\/em>, he also appears regularly on 1stDibs\u2019s social media pages, presenting engaging video content on fashion history and trends. He is based in New York City.<\/p>\n","post_title":"John Villa","post_excerpt":"","post_status":"publish","comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","post_password":"","post_name":"john-villa","to_ping":"","pinged":"","post_modified":"2025-10-14 09:48:51","post_modified_gmt":"2025-10-14 13:48:51","post_content_filtered":"","post_parent":0,"guid":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/?post_type=contributors&p=411349","menu_order":0,"post_type":"contributors","post_mime_type":"","comment_count":"0","filter":"raw"}],"photographer":"","custom_byline":false},"show_date":true,"interstitial_banners":[{"acf_fc_layout":"collection","interstitial_banner_shortcode":"alexander-mcqueen","interstitial_banner_background_image":431407,"interstitial_banner_heading":"Shop Alexander McQueen on 1stDibs","interstitial_banner_subheading":"","interstitial_banner_button_text":"View 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