{"id":434003,"date":"2026-04-03T10:31:00","date_gmt":"2026-04-03T14:31:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/?p=434003"},"modified":"2026-04-07T10:51:57","modified_gmt":"2026-04-07T14:51:57","slug":"cartier-tank-watch","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/cartier-tank-watch\/","title":{"rendered":"The Cartier Tank Watch Was an Icon Even Before Jackie Kennedy and Carolyn Bessette Wore It"},"content":{"rendered":"
\n
\"\"<\/a>
Cartier Tank Louis 78087, 1980s<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

Since its launch 109 years ago, an extensive list of luminaries have worn the Cartier Tank watch<\/a>, including Yves Saint Laurent, Andy Warhol, Catherine Deneuve, Princess Diana and Muhammad Ali. Among all these bold-faced fans, the timepiece is most closely associated with former First Lady Jaqueline Kennedy, perhaps because she wore it so regularly and so stylishly for decades. Now that the FX series Love Story: John Kennedy Jr. & Carolyn Bessette<\/em> has reignited an obsession with Kennedy style, interest in the Cartier Tank model, like this 1980s version<\/a> offered by 1stDibs seller Classic Time Club, is also rising. Not only was the watch one of Jackie\u2019s signature accessories, but her daughter-in-law wore one as well.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Louis Cartier<\/a> designed the watch in 1917, taking cues for its case from a top-down view of the French Renault FT-17 tank, used during World War I. Slightly exaggerated gold vertical sidebars echo the tracks that enabled the tank to traverse rough terrain. This motif is echoed at the center of the dial in the railroad-track minute ring. As a whole, the watch represented a dramatic shift from the more usual round shapes and ornate aesthetics.<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"Jackie
Jackie Kennedy wears a Cartier Tank watch in this 1969 photo. Kennedy owned several Tank watches, one of which was sold at Christie’s in 2017 for $379,500. Photo by David Cairns\/Daily Express\/Hulton Archive\/Getty Images<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

Over the years, Cartier has produced numerous variations on the design \u2014 slightly modifying proportions or materials. In 2017, Carole Radziwill put up for sale at Christie\u2019s the gold Cartier Tank Louis that Jackie received from Prince Stanis\u0142aw Radziwill in 1963, and the public was able to take a close-up look. The rare petite model, whose case measured approximately 20mm by 28mm and a pronounced sapphire cabochon set in the crown, fetched an astonishing $379,500.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

When the watch appeared at auction, it called into question the widely held belief that the Cartier Tank watch Bessette was spotted wearing in the ’90s had belonged to Jackie and been given to her by John Jr. Evidence has emerged that Jackie owned several Tanks, which tracks with her general jewelry-collecting habit. For instance, she had many variations of the Croisillon bracelet<\/a> designed by Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"Carolyn
Carolyn Bessette wears a Cartier Tank watch in this 1996 photo. The FX series Love Story: John Kennedy Jr. & Carolyn Bessette<\/em> has reignited an obsession with Kennedy style. Photo by Lawrence Schwartzwald\/Sygma via Getty Images<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

Carolyn Bessette appears to have resembled her mother-in-law in acquiring multiples of her accessories. It\u2019s well documented, for example, that she owned a black as well as a tan Herm\u00e8s Birkin bag<\/a>. In addition to one of Jackie\u2019s gold Tank watches, she had a silver Cartier Les Must Tank<\/a>, acquired in 1996 from top Cartier salesman Guy Clark, who had befriended her.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

At the time, I had the same watch from Cartier’s Les Must<\/a> diffusion collection. Launched during the so-called quartz crisis in the late 1970s and discontinued in the early 2000s, Les Must<\/a> was all about reimagining classics like the Tank and Rolling Ring in less expensive materials, such as silver and gold-plated metal. Given her meticulously assembled wardrobe of chic staples, it makes sense that Bessette would have (at least) two Cartier Tank watches.<\/p>\n\n\n\t

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Since its launch 109 years ago, an extensive list of luminaries have worn the Cartier Tank watch, including Yves Saint Laurent, Andy Warhol, Catherine Deneuve, Princess Diana and Muhammad Ali. Among all these bold-faced fans, the timepiece is most closely associated with former First Lady Jaqueline Kennedy, perhaps because she wore it so regularly and […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":293,"featured_media":434109,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"apple_news_api_created_at":"2026-03-31T14:23:15Z","apple_news_api_id":"6fc13b36-bf20-44b9-8c0a-78e9a85c1d21","apple_news_api_modified_at":"2026-04-07T14:55:10Z","apple_news_api_revision":"AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAACA==","apple_news_api_share_url":"https:\/\/apple.news\/Ab8E7Nr8gRLmMCnjpqFwdIQ","apple_news_cover_media_provider":"image","apple_news_coverimage":0,"apple_news_coverimage_caption":"","apple_news_cover_video_id":0,"apple_news_cover_video_url":"","apple_news_cover_embedwebvideo_url":"","apple_news_is_hidden":"","apple_news_is_paid":"","apple_news_is_preview":"","apple_news_is_sponsored":"","apple_news_maturity_rating":"","apple_news_metadata":"\"\"","apple_news_pullquote":"","apple_news_pullquote_position":"","apple_news_slug":"","apple_news_sections":[],"apple_news_suppress_video_url":false,"apple_news_use_image_component":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[15568218,246],"tags":[15572426,822,15567713,15572425,15550945,912,15570131,15525063,250],"dibs-categories":[15565903,15565904],"dibs-designs":[15572427,15572428],"dibs-styles":[],"dibs-creators":[],"dibs-sellers":[15572429],"class_list":["post-434003","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-obsession-of-the-week","category-watches","tag-carolyn-bessette","tag-cartier","tag-cartier-tank","tag-cartier-tank-watch","tag-hermes-birkin-bag","tag-jackie-kennedy","tag-love-story","tag-watch","tag-watches-2","dibs-categories-dibs-j","dibs-categories-dibs-j_wat","dibs-designs-dibs-cartier-tank-collection","dibs-designs-dibs-cartier-tank-louis-cartier-watch","dibs-sellers-dibs-classic-time-club"],"acf":{"post_format":"article","subtitle":"The elegant timepiece, which was designed more than a century ago, is garnering new interest thanks to a certain TV show.","contributors":{"hide_byline":false,"columnist":[{"ID":361881,"post_author":"293","post_date":"2021-12-14 22:36:19","post_date_gmt":"2021-12-15 03:36:19","post_content":"\n

Marion Fasel is a jewelry historian, award-winning journalist and author of 11 books as well as The Adventurine<\/em><\/a> newsletter. The Wall Street Journal<\/em> called her book The History of Diamond Engagement Rings: A True Romance<\/em> \u201cone of the best coffee table books for 2026.\u201d She curated \u201cBeautiful Creatures: Jewelry Inspired by the Animal Kingdom\u201d at the American Museum of Natural History in 2021.<\/p>\n","post_title":"Marion Fasel","post_excerpt":"","post_status":"publish","comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","post_password":"","post_name":"marion-fasel","to_ping":"","pinged":"","post_modified":"2026-02-25 14:18:12","post_modified_gmt":"2026-02-25 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It","fimg_url":{"thumbnail":{"source_url":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/1894_Cartier_Tank_Louis_78087_SM_Swiss_Made_Dial_18k_YG_1980s_Cartier_Service_Warranty_7_master-120x116.jpg","width":120,"height":116},"medium":{"source_url":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/1894_Cartier_Tank_Louis_78087_SM_Swiss_Made_Dial_18k_YG_1980s_Cartier_Service_Warranty_7_master-362x350.jpg","width":362,"height":350},"full":{"source_url":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/1894_Cartier_Tank_Louis_78087_SM_Swiss_Made_Dial_18k_YG_1980s_Cartier_Service_Warranty_7_master.jpg","width":1600,"height":1545}},"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/wp-content\/uploads\/1894_Cartier_Tank_Louis_78087_SM_Swiss_Made_Dial_18k_YG_1980s_Cartier_Service_Warranty_7_master.jpg","apple_news_notices":[],"yoast_head":"\nThe Cartier Tank Watch Was an Icon Even Before Jackie Kennedy and Carolyn 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