{"id":435184,"date":"2026-07-22T16:16:09","date_gmt":"2026-07-22T20:16:09","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/?p=435184"},"modified":"2026-07-22T16:32:06","modified_gmt":"2026-07-22T20:32:06","slug":"tigers-eye-jewelry","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/tigers-eye-jewelry\/","title":{"rendered":"Why Collectors Are Avidly Hunting for Tiger’s Eye Jewelry"},"content":{"rendered":"
\n
\"tiger's
Clockwise from top left: Bulgari tiger’s eye and diamond ring,1970s<\/a>; tiger’s eye necklace, 1970<\/a>; Piaget tiger’s eye watch, 1970s<\/a>; Aldo Cipullo tiger\u2019s eye, chrysophrase and 18-karat gold earrings, 1974<\/a>; David Webb 18-karat yellow-gold, tiger’s eye and green-enamel cocktail ring, 1970<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

Known for its distinctive stripe and shimmering golden-brown hue, tiger\u2019s eye<\/a> reached peak popularity in the field of fine jewelry in the 1960s and \u201970s. Since then, the stone has receded from view, waiting to be rediscovered by a new generation. Now, its renaissance appears to have begun. Contemporary designers are exploiting the stone\u2019s earthy, wear-with-anything appeal, incorporating it into their latest collections in the form of polished beads, sleek inlays and elaborately carved pendants.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Tiger\u2019s eye, a type of quartz, is distinguished by its chatoyant, or cat’s-eye, effect, in which a narrow luminous band appears on the stone\u2019s surface when it catches the light. The stone’s renewed popularity likely stems from its versatility. A bit like labradorite<\/a>, which can appear neutral in one light and warm to luminous blue-gray in another, tiger\u2019s eye transforms to harmonize with the colors around it, whether framed by bare skin or paired with other gemstones, shifting from rich bronze to soft caramel.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n
\"Verdura<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Louis<\/a><\/figure>\n
Left: Verdura clip earrings in 18-karat yellow gold and carved tiger’s eye, 1980<\/a>. Right: Louis Vuitton tiger’s eye and 18-karat yellow gold cocktail ring, 20th century<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Tiger\u2019s eye also evokes a certain nostalgia, prompting collectors to seek it out in vintage settings. The stone fit seamlessly into the aesthetic of the 1970s. Its amber, honey and chocolate hues echoed the decade’s favored earth tones and natural materials as seen in suede jackets, tortoiseshell sunglasses and Herm\u00e8s scarves<\/a> patterned in mustard yellow and mahogany, not to mention the work of designers like David Hicks<\/a>, Gabriella Crespi<\/a> and Mario Bellini<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Beyond its role in the period’s fashion, tiger\u2019s eye, associated by many with protective powers, played into the 1970s’ interest in crystals<\/a>, astrology and alternative spirituality.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It also emerged as a discreet alternative to diamonds and colored gems, viewed as conspicuous signals of wealth. Tiger\u2019s eye, in contrast, offered visual complexity through texture and sheen \u2014 an exemplar of \u201cquiet luxury\u201d before the phrase was coined, in the 2020s.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n
Left: David Webb 18-karat yellow-gold and tiger’s eye station pendant bead necklace, 20th century<\/a>. Right: David Webb 18-karat yellow-gold, tiger’s eye and green-enamel cocktail ring, 1970<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

One of the foremost champions of tiger’s eye was David Webb<\/a>, whose designs celebrated its bold sculptable beauty, along with that of other opaque stones. like malachite, coral, lapis and rock crystal. Webb\u2019s pieces demonstrated that fine jewelry didn’t have to rely on expensive emeralds or rubies. With their naturally graphic bands, tiger’s eyes lent themselves to designs defined by drama, contrast, scale and texture, from fluted links on chunky gold bracelets to oversize cocktail rings with domed cabochons.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Around the same time, Bulgari<\/a> started pairing precious colored stones and diamonds with hard stones \u2014 including tiger’s eye, malachite, lapis lazuli, coral and agate \u2014 a combination that became a hallmark of the house’s 1970s aesthetic.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n
Left: Rolex tiger’s eye dial President watch 6927,1979<\/a>. Right: Piaget asymmetric 9487 23mm manual watch with tiger’s eye dial, ca. 1970<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Hard-stone dials were de rigueur in the decade’s dress watches. Piaget, in particular, favored the use of ornamental stones, working with tiger’s eye, as well as lapis, coral and malachite.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n
\"Van<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Van<\/a><\/figure>\n
Left: Van Cleef & Arpels Vintage Alhambra tiger’s eye pendant necklace, 2018<\/a>. Right: Van Cleef & Arpels Magic Alhambra tiger’s eye and carnelian earrings, 2024<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Tiger\u2019s eye\u2019s spike in popularity coincided with the debut of the iconic Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra collection<\/a>, in 1968. The signature stylized clover motif first appeared as all gold; versions with stone inlays \u2014 of onyx, malachite and lapis lazuli, for example \u2014 emerged in the early 1970s. Tiger\u2019s eye was among the earliest opaque gems enlivening the Alhambra leaves, and it remains an option (subject to the production cycle and sourcing availability).<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"Aldo
Aldo Cipullo tiger\u2019s eye, chrysophrase and 18-karat gold earrings, 1974<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

Cartier<\/a> too succumbed to hard stones’ allure. As many collectors know, Aldo Cipullo<\/a>‘s work at the house extended far beyond the Love bracelet. In the early 1970s, he designed substantial gold jewelry incorporating tiger’s eye, lapis, coral and malachite, often in clean, geometric settings. <\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"Kutchinsky<\/a>
Kutchinsky tiger’s eye and diamond ring, 1972<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

Whether crafted in the 1970s or newly minted, tiger\u2019s eye jewelry conveys a distinct sense of time and place, instantly transporting the wearer to the decade of St. Tropez tans and Halston gowns. But if you prefer your transportive pieces to be of the period, bear in mind that there\u2019s only so much vintage David Webb and Bulgari to go around. So, if you find a piece you love, don\u2019t hesitate. Pounce.<\/p>\n\n\n\t

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<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Known for its distinctive stripe and shimmering golden-brown hue, tiger\u2019s eye reached peak popularity in the field of fine jewelry in the 1960s and \u201970s. Since then, the stone has receded from view, waiting to be rediscovered by a new generation. Now, its renaissance appears to have begun. Contemporary designers are exploiting the stone\u2019s earthy, […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":293,"featured_media":435249,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"apple_news_api_created_at":"2026-07-22T20:19:50Z","apple_news_api_id":"760697fa-eb12-4562-9102-76d4711ef4b6","apple_news_api_modified_at":"2026-07-22T20:35:18Z","apple_news_api_revision":"AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA==","apple_news_api_share_url":"https:\/\/apple.news\/AdgaX-usSRWKRAnbUcR70tg","apple_news_cover_media_provider":"image","apple_news_coverimage":0,"apple_news_coverimage_caption":"","apple_news_cover_video_id":0,"apple_news_cover_video_url":"","apple_news_cover_embedwebvideo_url":"","apple_news_is_hidden":"","apple_news_is_paid":"","apple_news_is_preview":"","apple_news_is_sponsored":"","apple_news_maturity_rating":"","apple_news_metadata":"\"\"","apple_news_pullquote":"","apple_news_pullquote_position":"","apple_news_slug":"","apple_news_sections":[],"apple_news_suppress_video_url":false,"apple_news_use_image_component":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"dibs-categories":[],"dibs-designs":[],"dibs-styles":[],"dibs-creators":[],"dibs-sellers":[],"class_list":["post-435184","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-uncategorized"],"acf":{"post_format":"article","subtitle":"Overlooked since its 1970s heyday, the earthy, golden-brown stone is regaining popularity with collectors.\r\n","contributors":{"hide_byline":false,"columnist":[{"ID":361857,"post_author":"293","post_date":"2021-12-14 22:36:15","post_date_gmt":"2021-12-15 03:36:15","post_content":"\n

Amy Elliott is a freelance writer who specializes in fine jewelry. A lively presence in the editorial community for more than two decades, she has held senior staff positions at the Knot<\/em>, Brides<\/em> and Lucky<\/em> magazines, was the engagement rings expert at About.com and currently writes jewelry stories for an array of print and online media, including JCK<\/em> (where she is a contributing editor), the Zing Report<\/em> and the New York Times<\/em>. Her byline has also appeared in DuJour<\/em>, Galerie<\/em>, Martha Stewart Weddings<\/em>, Wynn<\/em>, Gotham<\/em> and Hamptons<\/em>, among other publications.<\/p>\n","post_title":"Amy Elliott","post_excerpt":"","post_status":"publish","comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","post_password":"","post_name":"amy-elliott","to_ping":"","pinged":"","post_modified":"2025-09-03 16:23:37","post_modified_gmt":"2025-09-03 20:23:37","post_content_filtered":"","post_parent":0,"guid":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/contributors\/amy-elliott\/","menu_order":0,"post_type":"contributors","post_mime_type":"","comment_count":"0","filter":"raw"}],"photographer":"","custom_byline":false},"show_date":true,"show_related_items_footer_popup":false,"interstitial_banners":[{"acf_fc_layout":"collection","interstitial_banner_shortcode":"statement-jewelry","interstitial_banner_background_image":435373,"interstitial_banner_heading":"Shop Statement 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