{"id":436657,"date":"2026-10-29T15:32:51","date_gmt":"2026-10-29T19:32:51","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/?p=436657"},"modified":"2026-10-29T15:32:57","modified_gmt":"2026-10-29T19:32:57","slug":"retro-citrine-cuff-bracelet","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/retro-citrine-cuff-bracelet\/","title":{"rendered":"This Citrine Bracelet Gives Peak 1940s Glamour"},"content":{"rendered":"
\n
\"citrine<\/a>
Cuff bracelet in 14-karat gold set with citrine, rubies and diamonds, ca. 1940<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

A jewel that immediately presents as an artifact of a certain era is compelling to many collectors, especially if they favor that period\u2019s aesthetic \u2014 and its most famous practitioners \u2014 above all others. It\u2019s particularly thrilling when the piece’s design elements \u2014 the metal, stones or techniques used in its fabrication, its scale or all these things at once \u2014 can be traced to a specific historical context. That’s true of this bracelet<\/a>, making it an outstanding exemplar of the Retro period (extending from about 1935 through the early 1950s). <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Although the bracelet is not signed, High Style Deco<\/a>, which is offering it on 1stDibs, attributes its design to the venerable French jewelry house Mauboussin<\/a>, founded in 1827. Since the piece was crafted in the United States in the 1940s, it was likely produced in Mauboussin\u2019s affiliated atelier in New York.<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"Cuff<\/a>
Gold<\/a> spiked in popularity amid World War II-era platinum shortages.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

Voluminous in scale, composed of high-relief scrolls and coils, the bracelet has a silhouette that falls somewhere between chiseled geometric sculpture and the puffed-out loops of a meticulously tied bow (a well-known Retro-period motif). The dimensional goldwork reflects a shift in 1940s jewelry, when gold became the metal of choice because of World War II platinum shortages. The same historical undercurrents informed other form-forward designs, like Cartier<\/a>\u2019s extra-wide Tank bracelets made entirely of gold.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Mega gems, like the 85-carat central stone here, were frequent components of the Retro era\u2019s bold gold pieces. The use of citrine in the bracelet is significant. Wartime disruptions made traditional gems, like the rubies and sapphires from Asia and Africa, harder to obtain, prompting jewelers to pivot to such stones as citrine, amethyst and aquamarine. Sourced from South Africa (mainly Brazil), these were readily available in substantial sizes, making them particularly well-suited to the Retro period\u2019s preference for cocktail-party jewels with dramatic presence.<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"citrine<\/a>
In addition to the bracelet<\/a>‘s clasp, there’s also a safety chain.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

Beyond what the design elements reveal about the era\u2019s geopolitics, the bracelet also offers evidence of Hollywood\u2019s influence on 1940s jewelry trends. Glamorous film stars helped popularize generously proportioned bracelets (and gems) on and off camera. Joan Crawford, for example, appears in an iconic photograph from the film The Women<\/em> (1939) wearing a cuff by Raymond C Yard set with two enormous half-moon-shaped citrines, part of a two-piece suite that sold for $250,000 at auction in 2022.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A bit of fashion history is on display as well. Bracelets were the Retro era\u2019s must-have accessory, from Machine Age\u2013inspired tubogas<\/em> designs and bold geometric links to fluid, flexible belt styles finished with gem-set buckles. They were the perfect complement to the era\u2019s three-quarter-length dress sleeves and Crawford-esque suit jackets, both tailored to allow a bracelet to catch the light. <\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"Cuff<\/a>
The cuff<\/a> is set with a massive 85-carat emerald-cut citrine center stone along with baguette-cut rubies and round-cut diamonds.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

After World War II, triumph and optimism filled the air. The mood called for ever-bolder statement jewels designed to stand out at a party, perhaps alongside a cocktail ring crowned with a sizable stone. Volume was key, as was the confidence to accessorize at such an extravagant scale. High Style Deco\u2019s bracelet is unmistakably Retro, yet its confident energy feels entirely at home in the present moment. Like sidecars served in coupe glasses, emerald-cut gemstones (the bigger the better!) paired with geometric forms have a timeless quality, especially when appearing in a magnificent design.<\/p>\n\n\n\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

A jewel that immediately presents as an artifact of a certain era is compelling to many collectors, especially if they favor that period\u2019s aesthetic \u2014 and its most famous practitioners \u2014 above all others. It\u2019s particularly thrilling when the piece’s design elements \u2014 the metal, stones or techniques used in its fabrication, its scale or […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":293,"featured_media":436666,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"apple_news_api_created_at":"2026-10-29T19:35:43Z","apple_news_api_id":"81ba9d98-69e3-482c-aec5-0feaf2678b43","apple_news_api_modified_at":"2026-10-29T19:35:43Z","apple_news_api_revision":"AAAAAAAAAAD\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/w==","apple_news_api_share_url":"https:\/\/apple.news\/AgbqdmGnjSCyuxQ_q8meLQw","apple_news_cover_media_provider":"image","apple_news_coverimage":0,"apple_news_coverimage_caption":"","apple_news_cover_video_id":0,"apple_news_cover_video_url":"","apple_news_cover_embedwebvideo_url":"","apple_news_is_hidden":"","apple_news_is_paid":"","apple_news_is_preview":"","apple_news_is_sponsored":"","apple_news_maturity_rating":"","apple_news_metadata":"\"\"","apple_news_pullquote":"","apple_news_pullquote_position":"","apple_news_slug":"","apple_news_sections":[],"apple_news_suppress_video_url":false,"apple_news_use_image_component":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[15523143,15568218],"tags":[8672533,15550435,15568791,102,15570592],"dibs-categories":[15565903],"dibs-designs":[],"dibs-styles":[],"dibs-creators":[],"dibs-sellers":[15570425],"class_list":["post-436657","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-jewelry-2","category-obsession-of-the-week","tag-citrine","tag-cuff-bracelet","tag-gold-jewelry","tag-jewelry","tag-retro-jewelry","dibs-categories-dibs-j","dibs-sellers-dibs-high-style-deco"],"acf":{"post_format":"article","subtitle":"Its voluminous design and substantial gemstone centerpiece are definitive characteristics of the Retro style.","contributors":{"hide_byline":false,"columnist":[{"ID":361857,"post_author":"293","post_date":"2021-12-14 22:36:15","post_date_gmt":"2021-12-15 03:36:15","post_content":"\n

Amy Elliott is a freelance writer who specializes in fine jewelry. A lively presence in the editorial community for more than two decades, she has held senior staff positions at the Knot<\/em>, Brides<\/em> and Lucky<\/em> magazines, was the engagement rings expert at About.com and currently writes jewelry stories for an array of print and online media, including JCK<\/em> (where she is a contributing editor), the Zing Report<\/em> and the New York Times<\/em>. Her byline has also appeared in DuJour<\/em>, Galerie<\/em>, Martha Stewart Weddings<\/em>, Wynn<\/em>, Gotham<\/em> and Hamptons<\/em>, among other publications.<\/p>\n","post_title":"Amy Elliott","post_excerpt":"","post_status":"publish","comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","post_password":"","post_name":"amy-elliott","to_ping":"","pinged":"","post_modified":"2025-09-03 16:23:37","post_modified_gmt":"2025-09-03 20:23:37","post_content_filtered":"","post_parent":0,"guid":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/contributors\/amy-elliott\/","menu_order":0,"post_type":"contributors","post_mime_type":"","comment_count":"0","filter":"raw"}],"photographer":"","custom_byline":false},"show_date":true,"show_related_items_footer_popup":false,"interstitial_banners":false,"slideshows":false,"show_prefix":true,"prefix_text":"Sponsored 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