{"id":96253,"date":"2023-10-13T10:36:00","date_gmt":"2023-10-13T14:36:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/?p=96253"},"modified":"2024-10-01T13:30:09","modified_gmt":"2024-10-01T17:30:09","slug":"counterfeit-hermes-birkin-bag","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.1stdibs.com\/blogs\/the-study\/counterfeit-hermes-birkin-bag\/","title":{"rendered":"How to Spot a Fake Herm\u00e8s Birkin Bag"},"content":{"rendered":"
\n
\"Tyler<\/a>
Money Birkin<\/em>, 2020, by Tyler Shields<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

On a short flight from London to Paris in 1983, fashion history changed forever. That\u2019s when Jane Birkin<\/a> accidentally upended her Herm\u00e8s<\/a> datebook, scattering papers everywhere.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Who came to her assistance? Only Herm\u00e8s\u2019s legendary leader, Jean-Louis Dumas, who engaged the actress and singer in discussion for the rest of the flight. He asked Birkin about her dream bag. He took notes. He then brought those notes to the Herm\u00e8s workshop. Soon, an icon was born<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

And one for which people are willing to pay up. A 2017 study found that the Birkin<\/a>\u2019s price had increased 500 percent<\/a>, or 14 percent a year, since its introduction. And its value has continued to climb. In 2020, a Himalaya Birkin<\/a> went for $382,295, making it the most expensive bag<\/a> ever sold at auction. That record didn\u2019t last long. In 2022, a diamond-studded Himalaya<\/a> fetched $450,000<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Is it any wonder that counterfeiters love the Birkin?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Debra Kent, founder of Mightychic<\/a>, in Miami, has specialized in Herm\u00e8s<\/a> for nearly two decades and is still moved<\/a> by the luxury house\u2019s craftsmanship, quality and \u201cworld of colors.\u201d Nonetheless, she warns, \u201csome of the bags<\/a> coming out of Italy are so good that even Herm\u00e8s has a hard time telling.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

To avoid being taken, the first imperative is to \u201cknow your seller,\u201d she says. \u201cYou have to do your homework. You have to ask questions. You have to see that this is somebody that\u2019s been around for a really long time.\u201d Knowing how to spot a fake Birkin bag begins with knowing who, exactly, your seller is buying from.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

And, of course, you must be familiar with the bag itself \u2014 especially the details that counterfeiters often get wrong (or, worse, get right). Below, we\u2019ve compiled a list of important features to be aware of when considering buying a piece of history<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

Check the Stamp<\/h2>\n\n\n
\n
\"Close<\/a>
On an authentic Birkin bag like this one<\/a>, you can feel the imprint of the stamp. <\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

Beneath the front flap of a real Birkin is a phrase dreams are made of: Herm\u00e8s \/ Paris \/ Made in France. Label stamps are lightly pressed into the leather in gold, silver or as a colorless imprint; metallics generally match the hardware. Make sure the accent on the second e is grave: \u00e8.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Check that the stamp is perfectly centered and the correct distance from the top (very close to the top stitching), as well as that the letters are clear and fine (not heavy-handed). It shouldn\u2019t look engraved, painted on or irregular. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

The label stamp may have additional markings, like ones indicating an exotic leather or a special order (a horseshoe symbol). By familiarizing yourself with the qualities of an authentic stamp, you\u2019ll be better prepared to win a game of \u201chow to spot a fake Birkin.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

Look at the Lock<\/h2>\n\n\n
\n
\"Close<\/a>
An authentic clochette and rose gold lock for a Birkin 25<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

Birkin bags come with a lock and key. Since 2000, both have been stamped \u201cHerm\u00e8s\u201d and numbered, with matching numbers. Because the style of numbering has changed throughout the years, authenticating through this detail alone is difficult. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Instead, consider the quality of the lock and key and their engravings. The hardware is generally gold or palladium, which lends it a substantial feel. The toggle should move smoothly, and all engravings should be crisp and refined.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Keys are enclosed in a leather clochette that loops through the bag\u2019s handle. Herm\u00e8s attaches the key directly to a leather band \u2014 it doesn\u2019t use a key ring. Check the clochette itself. Is the part that houses the key made of one piece of leather folded at top and sewn at the sides? Or is it two pieces of leather sewn together on three sides. If the latter, the bag is a fake.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

Be Sure of the Shape<\/h2>\n\n\n
\n
\"Pink<\/a>
This bright red Birkin 30<\/a> stands up straight and tall.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

Like the Parisian equivalent of the royal guard standing outside Buckingham Palace<\/a>, an authentic Birkin possesses a \u201cposture\u201d that sends a message of status and discipline.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

An authentic Birkin doesn\u2019t slouch. Or bulge. It\u2019s straight, symmetrical, assured. \u201cIt\u2019s perfect from every angle,\u201d says Diane D\u2019Amato, director of luxury accessories at Heritage Auctions. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

For each Birkin, Herm\u00e8s artisans choose only the sturdiest, flawless leather, which enables the bag to maintain its impressive form. (Herm\u00e8s further ensures this durability by offering a spa in Paris dedicated to the upkeep of its classic bags<\/a>.)<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cYour proportions are important,\u201d says Kent. \u201cDoes your handle look too tall? Or the face too round?\u201d Except for bags that are part of a special edition or were customized to suit an individual client\u2019s preferences, Birkins are available in 25-, 30-, 35- and 40-centimeter sizes, measured across their base. Checking this measurement is an easy way to verify authenticity. Or inauthenticity.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Kent cautions, however, that \u201csometimes, you get a bag that\u2019s a little bit oversized, a little bit undersized. That\u2019s usually an indication that it\u2019s authentic, because they\u2019re handmade, right, so not every single bag will be exactly the same.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

All Birkin bags have a single compartment and an interior side zip pocket. The handles stand up and will not flop to the sides. The four feet on the base, called clous, are hammered in, allowing it to stand on its own and hold its symmetrical shape \u2014 even after years of use.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The Birkin 40<\/a> is the biggest of the standard-size bags. It is frequently used for travel or business, since it offers enough space for larger essentials like a laptop or a light change of clothes. The Birkin 35<\/a> was the first Birkin bag size, introduced in 1984. Designed by Dumas and Birkin, today it is a status symbol as well as a stylish hold all.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Arguably the silhouette’s most popular size, the Birkin 30<\/a> is suitable for holding items like a tablet, scarf<\/a> and makeup pouch. The Birkin 25<\/a>, meanwhile, despite being the smallest of the group, accommodates such useful articles as keys, wallet<\/a> and phone.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

Examine the Leather<\/h2>\n\n\n
\n
\"A<\/a>
The white Clemence leather<\/a> found on this Birkin 30 is extremely difficult to achieve.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

\u201cOne of your first giveaways to an authentic bag is the leather,\u201d says Kent. \u201cThere\u2019s just nothing like the smell and the feel and the look of an authentic Herm\u00e8s bag.\u201d Birkins come in a variety of leathers<\/a>, including box calf<\/a>, Chamonix<\/a>, togo<\/a>, Clemence<\/a>, Veau Swift<\/a>, epsom<\/a> and Fjord<\/a>. Exotic leathers include alligator<\/a>, crocodile<\/a> and ostrich<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cEach year, Herm\u00e8s creates different colors in different leathers,\u201d says d\u2019Amato. \u201cWe make sure that the leather is correct with the color. . . . Not every bag in every color is made in every leather.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

Study the Stitching<\/h2>\n\n\n
\n
\"Close<\/a>
A real Birkin 35<\/a> in scratch-resistant togo leather<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

Sewn by an experienced artisan, the stitches on the Birkin are slightly angled, tight and precise. Generally, the thread is the same color as the bag. Since the stitching is hand done, it may have small inconsistencies \u2014 but it will never be messy.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Sloppy stitches, with loose or hanging threads, are the work of a counterfeiter, not a lazy artisan. There are no lazy artisans in the world of Herm\u00e8s.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

Find the Blind Stamp<\/h2>\n\n\n
\n
\"Close-up<\/a>
Counterfeiters might know about the blind stamp, but they haven’t mastered the precise stitching and a uniform cutout as seen on this authentic Birkin bag<\/a>.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

In 1945, Herm\u00e8s began indicating the years its bags were made using letters of the alphabet, beginning with A, for 1945, and ending with Z, for 1970. A new cycle started in 1971, with each letter set within a circle. That finished in 1996, and from 1997 until very recently, the letters were surrounded by squares. On the Birkin, these symbols were found on the underside of the tab strap.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A couple of years ago, as part of its constant battle against knockoffs, Herm\u00e8s moved the markings to the inside of the bag and switched its coding system to one that is less transparent. This change caused initial consternation among collectors, but imagine the trouble it\u2019s giving counterfeiters!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

Give the Zippers a Tug<\/h2>\n\n\n
\n
\"Close<\/a>
This Herm\u00e8s engraved gold tone zipper<\/a> pull is the real deal, with clean edges and high-quality hardware. <\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

One of the easiest ways to spot a fake Birkin is to take a look at (and tug on) the zippers. The leather of the pull tab should match that of the rest of the piece, and the underside shouldn’t show any signs of adhesive, which counterfeiters often use to attach tabs to bags.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The metal tab should be engraved with “Herm\u00e8s,” not YKK or the name of any other zipper maker, and it should never dangle down. Like all engravings on Birkin hardware, the text on the zipper should be clean, elegant and centered on the tab, not slapdash or thick. Counterfeiters have been known to get this right, however, so you might also want to assess the zipper\u2019s action.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Zipping a Birkin should be a luxurious experience, whether it’s vintage<\/a> or was crafted in 2023<\/a>. The motion should be smooth, easy and uniform. The zipper should never catch or feel stiff when you open or close it. If it does, you may have a fake Birkin on your hands.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The process should convince you that a highly trained artisan sat with that bag and that zipper, tested it for perfection and was ultimately satisfied.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

Authenticity Cards Are a No-Go<\/h2>\n\n\n
\n
\"Hermes<\/a>
When it comes to Herm\u00e8s, \u201cproof\u201d of authenticity usually means the opposite. This is an authentic Birkin bag<\/a>, complete with it’s simple dust bag and box.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

Herm\u00e8s has<\/span><\/span> never provided an authenticity card with its bags. Counterfeiters do, however. The same goes for hang tags \u2014 they don\u2019t exist in the authentic world. Keep that in mind.<\/span><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

Inspect the Base<\/h2>\n\n\n
\n
\"The<\/a>
The leather runs in the correct direction on the base of this orange crocodile Birkin 30<\/a>.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

Some counterfeit shortcuts are easy to discover if you just turn the bag over and look at its base. Do the feet twist off? They won\u2019t on a real Birkin. Are they shorter, wider or even just cheaper looking than on authentic bags?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Finally, the leather pattern can offer a valuable clue. It should, for example, run side to side along the length of the bag (as pictured above), not top to bottom. This is the kind of detail that could escape common counterfeiters.<\/p>\n\n\n\t

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\n\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\tShop Herm\u00e8s Handbags and Purses\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\tView All<\/span>\n\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n\n\n\n\n

(Article reviewed on the 13th of October, 2023)<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Green alligator skin Hermes Birkin bag that is filled with cash. <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":412898,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"apple_news_api_created_at":"2021-02-09T17:22:29Z","apple_news_api_id":"bfa023f2-9a16-4d0c-96e0-67cc3da792a1","apple_news_api_modified_at":"2024-05-09T11:45:19Z","apple_news_api_revision":"AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAIw==","apple_news_api_share_url":"https:\/\/apple.news\/Av6Aj8poWTQyW4GfMPaeSoQ","apple_news_cover_media_provider":"image","apple_news_coverimage":0,"apple_news_coverimage_caption":"","apple_news_cover_video_id":0,"apple_news_cover_video_url":"","apple_news_cover_embedwebvideo_url":"","apple_news_is_hidden":"","apple_news_is_paid":"","apple_news_is_preview":"1","apple_news_is_sponsored":"","apple_news_maturity_rating":"","apple_news_metadata":"\"\"","apple_news_pullquote":"","apple_news_pullquote_position":"","apple_news_slug":"","apple_news_sections":["https:\/\/news-api.apple.com\/sections\/809cd9be-c9e5-4328-a27b-758e48e35422","https:\/\/news-api.apple.com\/sections\/8b012b20-6eb7-478f-914d-852b22a7d76e"],"apple_news_suppress_video_url":false,"apple_news_use_image_component":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[106,15522063,15550953],"tags":[11534323,11573323,272,367333,11534253,11534263,11534283,10810263,11534333,11532373,10810363,11534303,10810273,11534313,388883,10810343,270,11573333,388923,11532383,11335613,388903,8343493,11532593,11532363,11534343,9,11335653,11534273,11534293,11573313],"dibs-categories":[15565982,15566362],"dibs-designs":[15566491],"dibs-styles":[],"dibs-creators":[15566492],"dibs-sellers":[15566910],"class_list":["post-96253","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-design-2","category-fashion","category-iconic-designs","tag-alligator","tag-authentic","tag-birkin","tag-birkin-bags","tag-box-calf","tag-chamonix","tag-clemence","tag-counterfeit","tag-crocodile","tag-debra-kent","tag-diane-damato","tag-epsom","tag-fake","tag-fjord","tag-handbag","tag-heritage-auctions","tag-hermes","tag-inauthentic","tag-jane-birkin","tag-jean-louis-dumas","tag-knockoff","tag-leather","tag-lisa-santandrea","tag-madison-avenue-couture","tag-mightychic","tag-ostrich","tag-paris","tag-real","tag-togo","tag-veau-swift","tag-x-ray","dibs-categories-dibs-v","dibs-categories-dibs-v_han","dibs-designs-dibs-hermes-birkin-bag","dibs-creators-dibs-hermes","dibs-sellers-dibs-mightychic"],"acf":{"subtitle":"The iconic Birkin bag is much coveted \u2014 and often copied. Find out how to tell the real deal from a convincing fake. 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