Henry Dunay Hammered Gold Earrings

Henry Dunay is one of the finest goldsmiths and jewelry makers of the 20th century. The seasoned American designer has for decades created exquisite jewelry by hand that is characterized by bold proportions and precise craftsmanship. Dunay’s breathtaking brooches, bracelets, rings and other accessories have garnered worldwide renown and — on the secondary market — are being reappraised by collectors as icons of contemporary design.

Dunay was born Henry Loniewski in Jersey City, New Jersey, and apprenticed for a downtown New York City jeweler named Rudolph Cacioli in his early teens. He spent a little less than seven years working under Cacioli, and set off to open his own business in 1956. He took on his mother's maiden name Dunay, believing his family name would be an obstacle to his success. At first, Dunay secured work designing pieces for other jewelers, including Harry Winston, one of the first figures in the field to recognize the branding power of lending glitzy fine jewelry for red-carpet events. As his skill set broadened, Dunay began handcrafting his own designs and built a name for himself.

Dunay’s business exploded thanks to the publicity around the De Beers Diamonds International Award he won in 1967. From then on, his fame grew and demand increased for his unique adornments, which feature distinctive metal finishes as well as blue sapphires, pavé set diamonds and a range of other gems. Dunay went on to win more awards from De Beers Diamonds and a wealth of other national and international awards throughout his career.

Dunay garnered acclaim for a sophisticated engraved-surface technique he calls Sabi, which draws on the traditional Japanese philosophy of wabi-sabi, and iconic figures such as Elizabeth Taylor, Nancy Reagan and Princess Diana all wore his elegant pieces for public appearances. At the 2003 Academy Awards, many celebrities donned Dunay’s Dove of Peace pin, commissioned by Global Vision for Peace and inspired by the work of Pablo Picasso. The designer is a member of the Gemological Institute of America and a past president of the American Jewelry Design Council. In 2009, he sold his company and later established H.D.D., Inc.

Find vintage Henry Dunay necklaces, earrings and other jewelry on 1stDibs.

In the United States, ear piercing didn’t really become popular until the 1950s and ‘60s, but our desire for a dazzling pair of vintage earrings has deeper roots than that. In fact, wearing earrings actually goes back thousands of years, and you can find many tangible connections between now and then in how we continue to talk about these treasured accessories.

Women wore ornamental earrings — studs and hoops at the very least — in Ancient Egypt, which is home to mines that are among the earliest sources of emeralds in the world. Emerald earrings are highly prized today, and their quality lies in their rich, saturated color. The highest-quality emeralds are green or bluish-green. Earrings worn by the affluent in early Roman civilizations were set with precious stones such as diamonds and pearls, and a clean-looking pop of pearl on the front of the lobe is as timeless as ever. Hoop earrings are imbued with symbolism and cultural significance for many, and on view in the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Ancient Near Eastern Art Gallery is a pair of simple gold hoops from Mesopotamia dating to between 2600 and 2500 B.C.

Today, ear piercing is very popular all over the world, and, as a result, it is difficult to overstate how much everyone pines for a good pair of earrings — modernist drop earrings, glamorous Victorian hoops, geometrically complex chandelier earrings, you name it. Sure, jewelry trends and the fashion darlings of social media come and go, but earrings have a staying power that seems impenetrable: The still-strong love affair between British royals and Cartier earrings is more than a century old, glossy 1970s hoops from legacy houses such as Bulgari and Van Cleef & Arpels remain the statement makers they’ve always been and although people have been stacking earrings for many moons, the allure of an expertly mismatched stack of charms and studs still feels fresh and new.

While there is no shortage of modern earring designs to choose from, the classics, like coral earrings, Art Deco–style earrings and diamond drop earrings are still heavy hitters. On 1stDibs, find a wide range of antique, new and vintage earrings today.