Hermes Jewelry Mark
21st Century and Contemporary Cufflinks
Gold, 18k Gold
21st Century and Contemporary French Modern Bracelets
Palladium
Late 20th Century French Brooches
18k Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Modern Cufflinks
Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Vintage 1970s French Cufflinks
18k Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Artist Bangles
Diamond, 18k Gold
Vintage 1980s Link Necklaces
18k Gold, Yellow Gold
20th Century Modern Band Rings
Sterling Silver
21st Century and Contemporary Cufflinks
Gold, 18k Gold, Rose Gold
1990s Cufflinks
Gold, 18k Gold
Vintage 1960s Brooches
18k Gold, Yellow Gold
20th Century French Cufflinks
Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Vintage 1950s French Retro Cufflinks
Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Vintage 1970s French Brooches
18k Gold, Yellow Gold
2010s French Modern Fashion Rings
Sterling Silver
21st Century and Contemporary French Contemporary Cufflinks
18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Sterling Silver
21st Century and Contemporary British Cuff Bracelets
2010s German Modern Cuff Bracelets
Silver
Mid-20th Century French Brooches
Ruby, 18k Gold
Mid-20th Century French Charm Bracelets
18k Gold, Enamel
20th Century French Modern Band Rings
Sterling Silver
21st Century and Contemporary British Modern Bracelets
Mid-20th Century French Modern Cufflinks
18k Gold
Vintage 1950s French Retro Cufflinks
Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
20th Century French Modern Brooches
Gold Plate
Vintage 1970s Cufflinks
Gold, Yellow Gold
2010s French Cuff Bracelets
Vintage 1960s French Modernist Cufflinks
Gold, 18k Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Link Bracelets
Sterling Silver
21st Century and Contemporary Contemporary Drop Earrings
Gold, 18k Gold, Rose Gold
1990s Link Bracelets
Gold, 18k Gold, Rose Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold
Vintage 1960s Clip-on Earrings
Diamond
21st Century and Contemporary American Band Rings
18k Gold, White Gold
Vintage 1970s French Link Necklaces
Gold, 18k Gold
2010s French Artisan Drop Earrings
Early 2000s European Modern Link Bracelets
Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Link Bracelets
Diamond, 18k Gold, White Gold
1990s French Contemporary Modern Bracelets
Sterling Silver
21st Century and Contemporary French Cuff Bracelets
Late 20th Century Pendant Necklaces
Sterling Silver
20th Century French Modern Bangles
Gold Plate, Rose Gold
21st Century and Contemporary French More Bracelets
Gold
Early 2000s French Modernist Cuff Bracelets
Silver, Sterling Silver
20th Century French Retro Clip-on Earrings
Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Tennis Bracelets
White Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold
1990s French Modern Link Necklaces
Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Early 2000s French Contemporary Wrist Watches
Late 20th Century Contemporary Band Rings
Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
Vintage 1970s French Retro Link Necklaces
18k Gold, Yellow Gold
20th Century French Modern Clip-on Earrings
18k Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Link Necklaces
Gold, 18k Gold, Rose Gold
Vintage 1950s French Retro Choker Necklaces
Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
21st Century and Contemporary French More Jewelry
20th Century French Clip-on Earrings
Diamond, 18k Gold
20th Century French Modernist Band Rings
White Diamond, Diamond, White Gold, 18k Gold, Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Chain Necklaces
White Diamond, Black Pearl, Gold, 18k Gold, Rose Gold
21st Century and Contemporary French Modernist Cocktail Rings
Sterling Silver, Silver, Platinum, Yellow Gold, 18k Gold, Gold
Late 20th Century Wrist Watches
18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Vintage 1950s French Retro Clip-on Earrings
Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Vintage 1980s French Modernist Clip-on Earrings
Silver, Sterling Silver
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Hermes Jewelry Mark For Sale on 1stDibs
How Much is a Hermes Jewelry Mark?
Hermès for sale on 1stDibs
For Hermès, what began as a maker of leather equestrian goods for European noblemen would eventually grow into one of the most storied fashion labels in the world. In 1837, German-born French entrepreneur Thierry Hermès opened a saddle and harness purveyor in Paris. Gradually, the house extended into accessories and luggage for its riders, and today, in paying homage to its origins, the family-run luxury brand resurfaces horse motifs in everything from clothing and modernist jewelry to pillows and handbags.
The first top-handled bag ever produced by Hermès was the Haut à courroies, which made its debut in 1892. A tall bag secured with a folded leather flap (fastened with bridle-inspired straps), it was designed to transport riding boots and a harness.
As the world made the switch from horse to automobile, the bag adapted, becoming a multifunctional travel satchel instead of a designated saddlebag. Today, 120 years later, the HAC remains in Hermès’s line — and its distinctive flap and clasping straps have laid the groundwork for some of the house’s other iconic bags.
In the 1930s, Robert Dumas (son-in-law to Émile-Maurice Hermès, Thierry’s grandson) designed a smaller, trapezoidal take on the flap bag with a handle and two side straps. Later, actress Grace Kelly, then engaged to Prince Rainier of Monaco, is said to have used one of these bags to conceal her pregnancy during the 1950s. Because she was photographed constantly, the coverage catapulted her handbag to international popularity.
In 1977, Hermès officially renamed the model for her, and the Kelly bag was born. Each Kelly bag takes between 18 and 25 hours to produce, and its 680 hand stitches owe solely to one Hermès artisan.
Robert Dumas was also responsible for another one of the brand’s most iconic offerings: the launch of its first silk scarf on the occasion of Hermès’s 100th anniversary in 1937. Based on a woodblock designed by Dumas and printed on Chinese silk, the accessory was an immediate hit.
Today, vintage Hermès scarves, typically adorned in rich colors and elaborate patterns, serve many functions, just as they did back then. Well-heeled women wear it on their heads, around their necks and, in a genius piece of cross-promotion, tied to the straps of their Hermès bags. Kelly even once used one as a sling for her broken arm.
In 1981, Robert Dumas’s son Jean-Louis Dumas, then Hermès chairman, found himself sitting next to French actress and musician Jane Birkin on a plane, where she was complaining about finding a suitable carryall for the necessary accoutrements of motherhood. After the two travelers were properly introduced, Birkin helped design Jean-Louis’s most famous contribution to the Hermès canon: the Birkin bag, a roomy, square catchall with the HAC’s trademark leather flap top and the addition of a lock and key.
Owing to the brand’s legendary commitment to deft, handcrafted construction, the Birkin is an investment that is coveted by collectors everywhere.
While the Kelly and Birkin may be standouts, gracing the arms of everyone from royal heiresses to hip-hop stars in the past few decades, the handbags are but a small part of Hermès’s fashion offerings.
Since the 1920s, the brand has produced some of the most desirable leather goods in the world. There’s the Constance bag, a favorite of Jacqueline Kennedy, the recently relaunched 1970s-era Evelyne and, on the vintage market, a slew of designs dating back to the 1920s.
Good design never goes out of style. Find a variety of vintage Hermès handbags, day dresses, shoes and more on 1stDibs.
- 1stDibs ExpertAugust 15, 2024To tell if a Hermès is real or fake, check the stamp.
Beneath the front of a real Hermès is the phrase: “Hermès / Paris / Made in France.” Real Hermès label stamps are lightly pressed into the leather in gold, silver or as a colorless imprint; metallics generally match the hardware. Make sure the accent on the second e is grave: è. Check that the stamp is perfectly centered and the correct distance from the top (very close to the top stitching), as well as that the letters are clear and fine (not heavy-handed). It shouldn’t look engraved, painted on or irregular. The label stamp may have additional markings, like ones indicating an exotic leather or a special order (a horseshoe symbol).
Next, consider the quality of the lock and key and their engravings. The hardware on a Hermès is generally gold or palladium, which lends it a substantial feel. The toggle should move smoothly, and all engravings should be crisp and refined. Keys are enclosed in a leather clochette that loops through the bag’s handle. Hermès attaches the key directly to a leather band; it doesn’t use a key ring. Check the clochette itself. Is the part that houses the key made of one piece of leather folded at the top and sewn at the sides? Or is it two pieces of leather sewn together on three sides? If the latter, the bag is likely fake.
You can also study the stitching. Sewn by an experienced artisan, the stitches on a Hermès are often slightly angled, tight and precise. Generally, the thread is the same color as the bag. Since the stitching is hand-done, it may have small inconsistencies, but it will never be messy. If you need help authenticating your bag, a certified appraiser or other knowledgeable expert can assist you.
On 1stDibs, explore a large collection of Hermès bags.
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