Steven Battelle Ruby

Using ancient coins and traditional Balinese gem setting techniques, Steven Battelle’s jewelry offers history in the palm of your hand. The American jewelry designer and his team create pieces inspired by and incorporating historic coinage and materials used in ancient Egypt, Mesopotamia and Asia.

Battelle first encountered cabochon stones, which are gemstones polished and shaped rather than faceted, on a trip to Southeast Asia in 1987. A predecessor of modern jewelry, cabochons inspired Battelle to pursue a jewelry hobby while continuing to work as a veterinarian for exotic animals. 

He became fascinated with the ornamentation styles used by ancient Majapahit Java and Siam cultures, eventually transitioning from veterinarian work to designing jewelry full-time. He developed a partnership with Balinese jewelry makers, a collaboration which became a key component in realizing his designs. 

The Balinese partners hand-make each piece using traditional methods that have been passed down for generations. While conventional blow torches and modern tools are used in much of the work, the heart of the jewelry’s creation is grounded in an artisanal approach. 

On 1stDibs, find a collection of Steven Battelle rings, earrings, necklaces and more.

Contemporary jewelry is inextricably linked with the moment in which it is created, frequently reflecting current social, cultural and political issues such as environmental consciousness, identity and sustainability. It’s informed by fashion trends, from the chokers of the 1990s to the large chain necklaces of the early 2000s.

Jewelry is one of the oldest forms of adornment. Lockets made of silver or gold have been treasured gifts for hundreds of years, for example, and charm bracelets, which have existed since prehistoric times, didn’t become especially popular until the 19th-century reign of Queen Victoria. For many centuries, fine jewelry was used primarily to express wealth or status through lavish materials. Then, in the 1960s, a concept known as the “critique of preciousness” emerged, with jewelers creating pieces that did not get their value from gemstones or precious metals. Instead, it was the jeweler’s artistic vision that was prized and elevated.

This shift still informs Contemporary jewelry being made by artists today. Whether they are using cheap, found materials and working with provocative geometric shapes or seeking out the rarest stones, they are imbuing their work with meaning through their skills, techniques and ideas. Innovative designers such as Elsa Peretti, who popularized sculptural sterling-silver jewelry for Tiffany & Co., and David Yurman, who twisted metal into the simple yet striking Cable bracelet, have also influenced the direction of Contemporary jewelry’s forms and aesthetics.

Meanwhile, technological advancements like metal alloys and laser engraving have led to new possibilities in jewelry design. Now, edgy makers and brands as well as minimalist designers are pushing Contemporary jewelry forward into the 21st century.

Find a collection of Contemporary rings, earrings, necklaces and other jewelry on 1stDibs.